對(duì)中國人來說,村落在哪里,鄉(xiāng)愁就在哪里。漫步于湖湘大地的鄉(xiāng)村,民居、戲臺(tái)、祠堂、書院、廟宇、寶塔、古橋、碉樓等建筑隨處可見。自先秦起,歷漢唐,經(jīng)宋元,越明清,村落始終與農(nóng)耕文化相伴,散落于三湘四水之間。湖南以自己的方式滋養(yǎng)著這些湖湘?zhèn)鹘y(tǒng)村落,它們風(fēng)格各異、特色鮮明,尤以704個(gè)中國傳統(tǒng)村落最具代表性。按照建筑風(fēng)格,湖湘?zhèn)鹘y(tǒng)村落可分為四大類型:湘中的府第式、湘南的街衢式、湘西南與湘西北的干欄式和湘北的大屋場(chǎng)式。
For Chinese people,the feeling of nostalgia is always associated with the hometown village. Strolling through the countryside of Hunan,one can find traditional dwelings,opera stages,ancestral hals,academies, temples,pagodas,ancient bridges,and watchtowers scatered around.From the pre-Qin era through the Han and Tang dynasties,passing the Song and Yuan,and continuing into the Ming and Qing dynasties,Hunan villages,doting around riversand lakes,arealways rich inagricultural culture.The province has nurtured these traditional vilages with its unique Huxiang culture,each with distinct styles and characteristics,particularly exemplifiedby the704 most representative ones.Basedon architectural styles,Hunan traditional villges can be divided into four major types:the manor-stylevilagesofcentral Hunan,the street-style villagesofsouthern Hunan,the stilted-style villages of southwestern and northwestern Hunan,and the grand courtyard-style villages of northern Hunan.
富貴家族的大院一府第式村落Manor-Style Villages: The Grand Courtyards of Wealthy Families
湘中的府第式建筑多由清代的中興名臣和大商巨賈修建。這種建筑通常以家族為單位,形成一個(gè)大院落,并以“某某堂”分別命名,如富厚堂、德厚堂等,每個(gè)名字都有著富貴吉祥的寓意。其建筑形制與空間布局井然有序,注重組群布局,充分利用有利場(chǎng)地和地形組成
復(fù)雜建筑群。
The manor-style buildings in central Hunan were mostly constructed by prominent officials and wealthy merchants during the Qing Dynasty. Typically family-centered,these structures formlarge compounds,often named with auspicious titles such asFuhou Tang(HallofWealthandHonor) orDehou Tang (Hall ofVirtueand Honor).Theirarchitectural layouts are orderly,emphasizing group arrangements thatmake fulluseof favorableterrain to create complexbuildingclusters.
紅茶商人劉麟郊修建的體仁堂是其中的代表。這座規(guī)模龐大的莊園位于婁底雙峰縣西部。劉氏早年在漢口等商埠經(jīng)商,積累了巨額財(cái)富。據(jù)傳,劉氏嫁女時(shí),曾讓女婿騎馬圈地,稱在八炷香時(shí)間內(nèi)圈到的土地都將作為女兒的嫁妝。然而女婿體弱,最終只圈了兩萬多畝地,鄉(xiāng)鄰們聽聞后感慨不已。體仁堂采用磚木結(jié)構(gòu)建造,占地面積達(dá)20000平方米,歷經(jīng)四次修建,耗時(shí)20余年才完成。整座建筑以天井為中心,左邊是守經(jīng)別墅,右邊是洋樓涼亭,院中套院,亭廊相連,輔以書樓、花園、佛堂、戲臺(tái)等功能性建筑,其木雕石刻裝飾精美絕倫。莊園內(nèi)設(shè)施完善,糧倉、水井、花園、菜地、魚池、豬圈、馬廝等一應(yīng)俱全。
A primeexampleis Tiren Tang(Hallof Benevolence),built by Liu Linjiao,a black tea merchant.This massive estateislocatedin the western part of Shuangfeng County, Loudi City. Liuamassed considerable fortune through trade in commercial hubs like Hankou in his early years. LegendhasitthatwhenLiumarriedoff hisdaughter, heallowedhisson-in-lawtorideahorseand mark outland- whateverareahecould encirclewithin the time it took eight incense sticks to burn would become his daughter's dowry.However, the son-inlaw,beingphysically weak,only managed to claim a little over 20,000mu (about 1,333 hectares),leaving thevillagers sorrowful.Constructed with brick and wood,Tiren Tang spans 20,ooo square meters and took over 20 years to complete through four phases of construction.The complex centers around a courtyard, flanked by the Shoujing Villa on the left and a Western-style pavilion on theright,with interconnected courtyards,corridors,and functional spaces suchasa study,garden,Buddhist shrine,and opera stage.The intricate wood carvings and stone decorationsare exquisite.The estatewas fully selfsufficient,complete with granaries,wells,gardens, vegetableplots,fish ponds,pigsties,and stables.
莊園外還筑有堅(jiān)固的圍墻,能夠有效抵御外敵入侵。如今,大門和墻壁上的那些彈孔,仿佛在向人們講述著戰(zhàn)火紛飛的亂世風(fēng)云。劉家敗落后,三個(gè)村民小組和一所小學(xué)遷入,300余戶人家在此定居,延續(xù)著莊園的生機(jī)。村民們往來其間,日出而作,日落而息。偶有游客探訪,可見老人在院子里曬著太陽,孩童在天井下追逐嬉戲,青壯年在田間耕作,這些場(chǎng)景都成為游客鏡頭下的美好畫面。
A sturdy outer wall was built for defense,and today, bulletholes on the gates and walls silently recount the turbulenttimesofwar.AfterthedeclineoftheLiu family,threevillagegroupsandanelementary school moved in,with over 30o households now residing here,keeping the estate alive.Villagers go about their daily lives,working at sunrise and restingat sunset. Occasional visitors find elderly residents basking in the sun,children playingunder the courtyard skylights,and adults toilingin thefields- scenesthatoftenbecome cherished snapshots for tourists.
宗法秩序的棋盤一街衢式村落 Street-Style Villages: The Chessboard of Clan Order
湘南的街衢(qu)式建筑主要由客家人修建。從其整體格局來看,單棟民居建筑既獨(dú)立又相互關(guān)聯(lián),形成一個(gè)個(gè)小單元。因此,這類村落的規(guī)模通常都不小,擁有200至300余棟房屋,前后相連,左右貫通。青石板鋪就的小巷將它們串聯(lián)起來,構(gòu)成壯觀的村落建筑群。
The street-style architecture of southern Hunanwasmainly built by the Hakka people.Here, individual, independent dwellings are interconnected to form small clusters.Thus, these villages are usually sizable,comprising 20o to 300 houses linked by bluestone-paved alleys front to back and side to side, forming an impressive architectural ensemble.
坳上村坐落于郴(chen)州蘇仙區(qū)的湘粵古道邊,宛如一條巨龍,棲臥在東河與西河之間?!褒堫^”兩側(cè)各矗立一座“惜字塔”,形似龍角。通往鄰村的青石板路,則宛若龍須。
AoshangVillage,locatedalongtheancient Hunan-Guangdong Road in Suxian District,Chenzhou
City,resemblesa giant dragon restingbetween the East and West rivers.Two“Character-Respecting Pagodas”stand likedragon hornsoneitherside of the dragon's head,while the bluestone path to the neighboringvillage resembles dragonwhiskers.
村內(nèi)現(xiàn)存明清磚木結(jié)構(gòu)民居64棟,其中最大的一棟被稱為“八角屋”。原房主是一名富商,本想建造一棟方方正正的房子,可是宅基地很不規(guī)整。他曾試圖向鄰居買地,但鄰居堅(jiān)決不賣。無奈之下,房主只得按照原有的地基形狀設(shè)計(jì),最后蓋就了如今的八角屋。后來,此事被傳為村中佳話,既贊美房主不仗勢(shì)欺人,也褒揚(yáng)鄰居不為錢財(cái)所動(dòng)。
The village preserves 64 brick-wood houses built in Mingand Qingdynasties,the largestof which iscalled the Bajiao Wu (the Octagonal House). Its original owner,awealthymerchant,initiallywanted to build a square residence,but the plot was irregular. When attempts to buyadjacent land froma neighbor failed,he designed the house according to the land's shape,resulting in the unique octagonal structure.
This story became a local legend, praising both the owner for not bullying others with his wealth and the neighbor for not being swayed by wealth.
跟大多數(shù)古村落一樣,坳上村也一度成了“老人村”。但近年來,湘南學(xué)院副教授張育維成了村里的常住戶。在村委會(huì)的支持下,他租下這些老屋,進(jìn)行統(tǒng)一規(guī)劃。首先,他劃分了不同區(qū)域,包括展館、餐廳、書店、兒童樂園等,各區(qū)域相互連接,形成了一個(gè)融傳統(tǒng)與現(xiàn)代于一體的社區(qū)。該社區(qū)藝術(shù)氛圍濃厚,目標(biāo)是成為獨(dú)具風(fēng)格的藝術(shù)小鎮(zhèn)。
Like many ancient villages, Aoshang once became a “village of the elderly.\"However, in recent years,Zhang Yuwei,an associate professor at Xiangnan University, moved in as a permanent resident.With the village committee's support,he rented the old houses for unified planning. He divided the areaintointerconnectedzones-exhibition halls,restaurants,bookstores,children's playgrounds - creating a community blending tradition and modernity. The town,rich in artistic ambiance,aspires to become a distinctive hub for thearts.
如今,坳上村每年都會(huì)策劃多個(gè)展覽,既有本土的年畫、銀飾、木雕展,也有意大利、英國等藝術(shù)家的作品展。村中那些60多歲的老人們,大多是第一次在村里看到真正的外國人,也驚訝于家中的日用品竟然也會(huì)被陳列在展柜中。
Today, Aoshang hosts multiple exhibitions annually, showcasing local New Year paintings, silver jewelry, and wood carvings alongside works by artists from Italy, the UK,and beyond. For many elderly villagers in their sixties, seeingforeignersforthe firsttimeintheirlives is a source of wonder, and they are equally astonished to find their everyday household itemsshowcasedinexhibitioncases.
懸于山間的詩行 一干欄式村落 Stilted-Style Villages: Poetry Suspended Between Mountains
湘西南與湘西北的干欄式建筑主要由苗、侗、土家等少數(shù)民族修建,歷史十分悠久,可追溯至新石器時(shí)代。這些建筑以竹木為主要建材,曾廣泛分布于長(zhǎng)江流域。房屋分為上、下兩層,上層供人居住,下層則蓄養(yǎng)動(dòng)物或堆放雜物。這些村寨錯(cuò)落于青山綠水之間,與自然和諧共生。著名的“百里侗文化長(zhǎng)廊”—通道縣坪坦河畔,三里一村,五里一寨,是干欄式村落的典型代表。
In the southwestern and northwestern regions of Hunan, the stilted architecture - primarily built by the Miao,Dong,and Tujia ethnic groups - dates back to the Neolithic Age. These structures,made mainly of bamboo and wood, were once widespread across the Yangtze River Basin. The houses are divided into two floors: the upper floor for living and the lower for livestock or storage. Nestled among verdant mountains and clear waters, these villages coexist harmoniously with nature. A prime example is the famed “Hundred-mile Dong Cultural Corridor” along the Pingtan River in Tongdao County, wherevillagesand hamletsdot the landscape every few miles.
坪坦村位于坪坦河中游,現(xiàn)存200多棟傳統(tǒng)民居,大多由杉木建造。房屋樣式可分為“抬頭屋”和“傘形屋”。其中,抬頭屋的屋面形似虎口,便于采光,據(jù)傳為魯班仙師為壓制山中老虎設(shè)計(jì)。
Located midstream along the Pingtan River, Pingtan Village preserves over 2Oo traditional dwellings, mostly constructed from fir wood. The housesfall into twostyles:oneisraised-headhouses and the other is umbrella-shaped houses. The former has roofs resembling a tiger's open mouth, designed to allow ample sunlight. Legend has it that it was designed by the master craftsman Lu Ban to suppress mountain tigers.
侗族人常說:“未立樓房,先立鼓樓?!惫臉鞘嵌闭瘍?nèi)最顯眼的建筑。坪坦村有三座鼓樓,最大的一座是中心鼓樓。其二樓為方形廳堂,是村民們的日?;顒?dòng)中心。與其他干欄式建筑一樣,鼓樓也采用榫卯結(jié)構(gòu),建造時(shí)未用一釘,展現(xiàn)了精湛的工藝技巧。
The drum tower stands as the most prominent structure of a Dong Village. A Dong saying goes, “Before erecting houses, first erect the drum tower\" Pingtan Village boasts three drum towers, the largest being the Central Drum Tower. Its square secondfloor hall serves as the community hub. Built entirely with mortise-and-tenon joints - not a single nail, the tower showcases exquisite craftsmanship just like other stilted houses.
鼓樓邊上有一座磚石建造的薩壇,是侗族人祭祀薩歲女神、祈求其護(hù)佑村寨安寧的地方。此外,村寨內(nèi)還有孔廟、古戲臺(tái)等公共建筑,村民們會(huì)在其中舉行豐富多樣的節(jié)日活動(dòng)。
BesideitstandsastoneSa Altar, dedicated to the goddess of Dong people,Sasui,who is worshipped by villagers for peace. Other communal spaces include a Confucian Temple and an ancient operastage,hostingvibrant festival activities.
每年農(nóng)歷十一月初一至初三,周邊十多個(gè)村寨的村民會(huì)齊聚坪坦村,過侗年、聽侗歌、觀侗戲、品侗食,熱鬧非凡。其間,吹蘆笙是最重要的活動(dòng)。蘆笙手們身著盛裝,手持各類蘆笙,鼓足腮幫吹奏。樂音或高或低,與村民們的歡聲笑語交織在一起。村寨外水田密布,侗族人在水田中種稻養(yǎng)魚,形成稻魚共生系統(tǒng),實(shí)現(xiàn)了生態(tài)平衡。
From the lst to 3rd of the 1lth lunar month, over a dozen neighboring villages gather in Pingtan for the Dong New Year, enjoying folk songs, operas, andfeasts.Thehighlightisthe lusheng(a reed-pipe wind instrument) performance: Musicians in festive attirepuff theircheeks,blendinghigh andlownotes withlaughter.Beyond the village lie the rice-fish terraces, forming an ecological symbiosis where fish thrive in paddies,fertilizing rice crops- a testament to sustainable harmony.
集體生活的圓心一大屋場(chǎng)式村落 Grand Courtyard-Style Villages: The Epicenter of Communal Living
湘北的大屋場(chǎng)式村落也獨(dú)具特色,岳陽的張谷英村便是典型。它坐落于岳陽縣渭洞筆架山下,因明代先祖張谷英而得名。村內(nèi)現(xiàn)存清代大小房屋1700多間,采用“干枝式”格局:中軸線為主干,設(shè)主堂;兩側(cè)為枝干,呈對(duì)稱式橫向分支,為“橫堂”。天井、堂屋以及兩側(cè)廂房構(gòu)成一個(gè)單元,各單元以屏風(fēng)、檐廊和巷道分隔,既可以自成體系,互不干擾,又可以貫穿一體,聚家為族。在50多年前的湘北地區(qū),這種大屋場(chǎng)式的村落隨處可見。但隨著經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)展與文化變遷,它們都消失在歷史的長(zhǎng)河中,只有張谷英村還是兩三百年前的模樣,彌足珍貴。
In northern Hunan, the grand courtyard-style villages stand out for theirunique architecture,with Zhangguying Village in Yueyang serving as a perfect example.Nestled at the foot ofBijia Mountain in Weidong Town, the village takes its name from its Ming Dynasty founder, Zhang Guying. Today, it preserves over1,7oo QingDynastyhouses arranged ina“tree-branch layout\":Acentralaxisforms the \"trunk,” housing the ancestral hall. Symmetrical lateral branches named hengtang extend horizontally, each comprising courtyards,main halls,and side rooms. These units, separated by screens, corridors, and alleys, function independently yet interconnect seamlessly,embodyingtheidealof“familyasclan.\" Half a century ago, such villages dotted northern
Hunan,but economic and cultural development hasshifts left Zhangguying Village as the sole intact survivor, still glowing with the cherished atmosphere of life two to three centuries ago.
如今,張谷英村已成為岳陽的一張旅游名片。游客既可以在此體驗(yàn)一百多年前湘北地區(qū)的農(nóng)耕生活,也可以在非遺展示體驗(yàn)中心嘗試演一出皮影戲,聽一曲《勸孝歌》,做一件巴陵青陶古村不僅吸引著八方游客,也迎來了“新村民”,不少年輕人到這里定居、創(chuàng)業(yè),外出者亦陸續(xù)回歸,昔日沉寂的深山村落又開始煥發(fā)生機(jī)。
Now as a top tourist destination in Yueyang, Zhangguying Village offers tourists immersive experience in 19th-century farming,and intangible heritage workshops including Shadow puppetry, the filial piety ballad“Quanxiao Ge,” and Baling Celadon pottery-making. The village also attracts \"new settlers\"- young entrepreneurs and returning locals- rejuvenating the once-silent valleys.
湖南的傳統(tǒng)村落,既是歷史的見證者,也是現(xiàn)代生活的參與者。它們既是村民的居所,也吸引著外來游客。在這些古老的村落里,我們不僅能看到過去的影子,也能感受到當(dāng)代的氣息。
Traditional villagesin Hunanarebothhistorical witnesses and modern participants when ancestral homes meet tourism and revival.Here,memories of the past coexist with pulse of the present -a testament to the resilience of Huxiang culture. ?
供圖/吳燦