宋樓火燒迎風(fēng)舞

韋婧

德州夏津縣歷史悠久、文化燦爛，因“齊晉會盟之要津”而得名。上百年來，夏津有一句流行語：“宋樓火燒迎風(fēng)舞，小磨香油佳天下。”其中迎風(fēng)而舞的宋樓火燒，又被稱為“燈籠火燒”“風(fēng)箏火燒”，個個白白胖胖、通透酥脆，可謂山東火燒中的顏值擔(dān)當(dāng)。

宋樓火燒創(chuàng)制于清朝中葉，其層薄如紙，香醇可口，被作為貢品進(jìn)獻(xiàn)給宮廷，深受皇家青睞。據(jù)傳說，古時曾有一人挑一擔(dān)火燒去趕集，中途忽遇大風(fēng)，一擔(dān)火燒被刮得漫天飛舞，此人左撲右撲，總算捂住兩個火燒未被大風(fēng)吹走，足見宋樓火燒之輕。

要做出輕簿如紙張的宋樓火燒，考驗(yàn)的是師傅的功力。從一個面團(tuán)變成一只“燈籠”狀的火燒，要經(jīng)過十多道工序?；馃捎镁x面粉和少量豆粉混合，經(jīng)手揉、杠子壓充分增加面團(tuán)柔韌性，每個七錢重的面劑子搟成面皮，經(jīng)過橫豎折六層，層層刷香油，再經(jīng)鍋烙火烤而膨?yàn)椤捌叽绺吡缪薄皬堥_嘴像鯰魚嘴”且層層酥脆的“氣火燒”。宋樓火燒因其嚴(yán)格的技術(shù)要求，至今仍處于手工制作階段，未實(shí)現(xiàn)機(jī)械化生產(chǎn)，由一輩輩手工匠人傳承下來，其技藝更加珍貴難得。

宋樓火燒皮酥、瓤香，外表看似硬脆，但用開水一浸，立即軟成煮熟的面片，不僅食用方便，而且滑膩可口，易于消化。若用熱氣蒸軟后切成細(xì)絲，加豆芽、白菜、精肉或雞蛋燜燴，吃起來更是柔軟松散，大開胃口，別具風(fēng)味。

因可儲存時間長、物美價廉、百變吃法，宋樓火燒逐漸在當(dāng)?shù)孛耖g廣泛食用。曾經(jīng)，一串宋樓火燒、幾包紅糖、一籃子雞蛋，是每一位夏津人都熟悉的看望產(chǎn)婦的“標(biāo)配”禮物。因“火燒”寓有“火爆”之意，宋樓火燒不僅是當(dāng)?shù)厝罕娞接H饋友的傳統(tǒng)禮品，更是恭賀喬遷、祝壽必不可少的禮物。

經(jīng)過幾代人的傳承，宋樓火燒以薄、脆、酥、香從山東火燒美食門類中脫穎而出，成為夏津人生活中的小確幸。對于很多夏津人，尤其是宋樓鎮(zhèn)的人而言，宋樓火燒是家鄉(xiāng)的一個符號，火燒吃進(jìn)肚里，家鄉(xiāng)也就記在了心里。

編輯/刁艷杰

Dezhous Xiajin County has a long history and splendid culture. It got the name Xiajin because of “holding a key position for the alliance between Qi and Jin”. For centuries， there has been a popular saying in Xiajin： “Songlou huoshao dances in the wind； ground sesame oil tops the world.” Songlou huoshao is also known as “l(fā)antern huoshao” and“kite huoshao”. It is white， plump and crisp， and can be counted as an attractive representative of Shandong huoshao.

Invented in the mid-Qing Dynasty， the mellow and delicious Songlou huoshao with paper-thin layers was an imperial tribute， and popular with the royal family. According to legend， when a man carried a load of huoshao to a fair， a gale suddenly blew， making the huoshao dance in the air. The man managed to retain two pieces of huoshao， and smiled， “The two are enough to cover my cost！” This shows the light weight of Songlou huoshao.

Songlou huoshao which has a crisp crust and fragrant stuffing， appears brittle， but can soften into cooked bread pieces after being soaked in boiling water. It is not only convenient for eating， but also smooth， delicious and easily digestible. If it is shredded after being softened in steam， and added with bean sprouts， cabbage， lean meat or eggs for braising， it tastes fluffy， appetizing and distinctive.

Due to its long storage time， excellent quality， reasonable price， various ways of eating， Songlou huoshao has been widely eaten in the local folk society. “Huoshao” implies“boom”， so Songlou huoshao is not only a traditional gift for the local people to visit friends and relatives， but also an essential gift for congratulations on new homes and birthdays.

For the people of Xiajin， especially of Songlou Town， Songlou huoshao is a symbol of their hometown. Eating huoshao symbolizes keeping their hometown in mind.