林春江
來煙臺切不可錯過煙臺山。
煙臺山是煙臺的標(biāo)志和象征,是煙臺厚重歷史的根系所在。烽火臺、忠烈祠、風(fēng)格迥異的近代建筑,古欒樹、燕臺石、燈塔,構(gòu)成了一幅絢麗的圖畫。
拾級而上,端莊的冰心老奶奶雕塑坐在一張靠背椅里,面容慈祥,眼神溫和。輕輕走進(jìn)紀(jì)念館,游客雖多,卻闃無人聲。冰心原來用過的舊物,一桌一椅,頗是粗糙,質(zhì)樸中卻透著高貴。冰心與煙臺的淵源極深,她小時候隨父親從福建閩侯來到煙臺海軍學(xué)校,定居于金溝寨,一住就是數(shù)年。孩提時代,冰心幾乎逛遍了煙臺的山山水水,熟稔煙臺的一草一木,尤其是煙臺這片蔚藍(lán)的海。在冰心晚年的記憶里,魂牽夢繞的就是煙臺的海以及淳樸好客的山村百姓。
煙臺山燈塔像一柄出鞘的利劍直刺天宇,站立在數(shù)十米高的頂端,不禁心曠神怡。憑欄遠(yuǎn)眺,繁華的市區(qū)以及無垠的大海盡收眼底。山在城中,城在樹中,樹在樓中,樓在海中,人間仙境,虛幻縹緲。山的秀麗,海的神韻,歷史的厚重,文化的博大,讓我領(lǐng)略到這座沿海城市的內(nèi)涵和精髓。小心翼翼地爬上連心橋,橋下是洶涌澎湃的海水,已是驚心動魄,更別說過橋了。鐵鏈的扶手上密密麻麻掛滿了一把把愛心鎖,洶涌的波濤見證了美好的情感。遠(yuǎn)處,萬噸巨輪正欲起航,雪白的海鷗歡快地鳴叫。微帶腥味的海風(fēng),從我面前呼嘯而過,深藍(lán)色的大海,浩浩淼淼。那海水下面,似乎奔涌著一股力量,氣勢磅礴,沛然莫御,也許這就是煙臺深處的力量,讓人沉靜和安穩(wěn)。
煙臺山下的朝陽街,南起北馬路,北至海岸街,全長400米。它見證了煙臺開埠的繁華過往,成為煙臺開埠文化的根脈所在。徜徉其中,克利頓餐廳的牌匾赫然醒目。半圓拱形的窗欞,灰紅相間的墻磚,德國哥特式的城堡建筑,歷經(jīng)一百多年的風(fēng)風(fēng)雨雨,仍然默默地矗立在那兒,訴說著悠悠往事。修葺后的朝陽街,結(jié)合煙臺本土特色,打造出煙臺獨特的葡萄酒酒文化:以“喬爾盧布松”為代表的國內(nèi)外旗艦餐飲,以“貳麻酒館”為代表的新潮酒吧,薈萃一堂。紫紅色的巨型酒瓶橫陳空中;“老北京銅火鍋”的黑底紅字熠熠奪目;“榮祥音樂酒館”發(fā)出柔和的藍(lán)光,奪人眼球;淡紅色的“公社”讓人瞬間回歸;高大的銀杏樹,圓形的噴泉,金黃色的雕塑,配以二層或三層的精致小樓,二樓的凸出式陽臺花團(tuán)錦簇,樓下,游客坐在木制座椅上,言笑晏晏,輕松愜意。這里,是煙臺曾經(jīng)最繁華的過往,而今,變得摩登和新潮,憑借厚重的歷史和人文內(nèi)涵,重新走向繁榮。
喜歡在朝陽街上走來走去。朝陽街是新潮的,又是傳統(tǒng)的;是有時代感的,又是懷舊的;是有歷史的,又是活力四射的。她滿足了人們對于多元性文化的需求,慰藉了人們?nèi)找娼箍实男撵`,與厚重而靈動的煙臺山一起,豐富了煙臺的文化底蘊(yùn),涵養(yǎng)了人們的精神。
在這里,你會遇見一個有深厚文脈和悠久歷史的煙臺,你會遇見一個現(xiàn)代和傳統(tǒng)并存的煙臺,你會遇見一個山海共生景致旖旎的煙臺,你會遇見一個包容萬物放飛自我的煙臺。
Make sure to climb Yantai Hill when you come to Yantai.
As a mark and symbol of Yantai, Yantai Hill is a condensation of the rich culture and history, where you can find such picturesque scenic spots and historical sites such as the Beacon Tower, the Shrine of Martyrs, the modern buildings of various styles, the ancient goldenrain trees, the Swallow Perching Stone, and the lighthouse.
Climbing up the stairs, you can find the statue of Bing Xin, a graceful old lady with a kind face and gentle eyes sitting in a back-rest chair. Gently entering the memorial hall, you can hardly hear any sound despite the great number of tourists. The old articles of furniture used by Bing Xin such as the chair and desk suggest an air of nobility of their owner despite their rough texture and simple styles. Bing Xin had a close relationship with Yantai. She had lived in Jingou Village for several years after she moved with her father from Minhou of Fujian province to Yantai Naval Academy when she was a child. During these years, she visited almost all the mountains and rivers in Yantai and became familiar with every corner of Yantai, especially the blue sea of Yantai. Even in her old age, Bin Xin still had a distinct memory of the enchanting sea and the simple and hospitable villagers in Yantai.