甌江山水詩路：浪漫而別致

“亂流趨正絕，孤嶼媚中川。云日相輝映，空水共澄鮮。”這是謝靈運對江心嶼水天交相輝映的生動描繪。詩與遠方，就在甌江山水之間，甌江山水詩路作為古代浙南山水主游線，其承載的詩歌文化底蘊，獨具浪漫而獨特的詩意之美。

甌江不僅是中國山水詩的發(fā)源地，更是一條維系溫麗兩地的黃金生命線。歷史上，兩地山水相依，文化同源，溫潤如玉的青瓷從這里出發(fā)，漂洋過海，成為古代海上絲綢之路炫目的文化交流使者。據(jù)不完全統(tǒng)計，甌江沿線清朝以前的詩詞共6300多首，分別是唐以前古詩25首、唐詩46首、宋詩439首、元曲13首、元明清詩5800多首，數(shù)以百計的詩人騷客，不辭辛勞，跋山涉水，尋覓著詩歌的不朽精魄。

山水詩發(fā)源地

一般認為“唐詩之路”淵源于東晉士族南渡，而“甌江山水詩路”幾乎同期起源。兩者的開創(chuàng)，與謝靈運都有共同的文化淵源關(guān)系。

謝靈運（385年-433年），東晉陳郡陽夏（今河南太康）人，出生在會稽始寧（今浙江上虞），原為陳郡謝氏士族，著名山水詩人，主要創(chuàng)作活動在劉宋時代，中國文學(xué)史上山水詩派的開創(chuàng)者。由謝靈運始，山水詩乃成中國文學(xué)史上的一大流派，最著名的是《山居賦》，也是見諸史冊的第一位大旅行家。

永初三年（422年），謝靈運放任永嘉太守。初到溫州，謝靈運既作“池塘生春草，園柳變鳴禽”（《登池上樓》），“亂流趨正絕，孤嶼媚中川。云日相輝映，空水共澄鮮”（《登江中孤嶼》）名篇。

江心嶼位于甌江中游，是中國四大名勝孤嶼之一，享有“中國詩之島，世界古航標(biāo)”之美譽。島上東西雙塔凌空，映襯江心寺，還有英領(lǐng)事館舊址、宋文信國公祠、浩然樓、謝公亭、澄鮮閣等名勝古跡。

池上樓為紀念南朝著名詩人謝靈運所建，因其名篇《登池上樓》中“池塘生春草，園柳變鳴禽”傳世，后人遂稱該樓為“池上樓”。園內(nèi)有假山、奇石、回廊，并有“青草軒”“懷謝樓”“十二梅花書屋”和“飛霞山館”等。

其后，謝公足跡所及，除了郡城，還有甌海、瑞安、平陽、永嘉、樂清等地，以及上溯 石門洞。謝公對永嘉楠溪江情有獨鐘，楠溪江素以“水美、巖奇、瀑多、林秀、村古”聞名遐邇，境內(nèi)擁有芙蓉村、蒼坡村、麗水街、龍瀑仙洞等景點。悠悠三百里楠溪江，被譽為“永遠的山水詩，最美的桃花源?！敝x靈運任永嘉太守期間，游歷永嘉山水，留下大批描寫楠溪江山水的詩篇。

“自言官長如靈運，能使江山似永嘉?！边@是蘇東坡的感嘆。以中國山水詩鼻祖謝靈運發(fā)端，歷代文人墨客皆青睞溫州，杜甫、孟浩然、韓愈、沈括、徐霞客等，都為溫州山水留下詩篇和墨跡。

亦是唐詩之路

如果說謝靈運的甌江詩作讓甌江成了一條山水詩路，那么孟浩然等人的甌江詩作則證明它也是一條唐詩之路。

孟浩然（689-740），字浩然，或名浩，以字行，今湖北襄陽市人，與王維一個“詩佛”，一個“詩星”，合稱“王孟”，以其名詩“春眠不覺曉”為當(dāng)今家喻戶曉，早年曾與同鄉(xiāng)世交、好友張子容一起隱居當(dāng)?shù)芈归T山，被稱為“鹿門處士”。

唐開元年間，孟浩然到都城洛陽求取功名無成，心緒低落的他遂往山水秀麗的吳越地區(qū)游玩，像謝靈運一樣借助山水詩創(chuàng)作來排遣失意心情。他寫下《自洛之越》自述落魄心跡：“皇皇三十載，書劍兩無成。山水尋吳越，風(fēng)塵厭洛京……”

孟浩然有一位好友詩人崔國輔，在會稽郡（今紹興）任山陰縣尉（縣尉職掌軍事治安等）。重視友情的他憶起兩人曾經(jīng)有約，就動身前往相見，途中寫下情深意重的《江上寄山陰崔國輔少府》。

而他的另一位老友張子容，中了進士后雖踏上仕途，此時卻被貶職為樂成（今溫州樂清市）縣尉。落難的張子容在詩句里充滿悲情地描述它夾在“窮?！迸c“惡溪”之間，“有時聞虎嘯，無夜不猿啼”（《貶樂城尉日作》），儼然窮山惡水，野獸橫行，且“炎瘴苦華年”（《永嘉作》），令他思鄉(xiāng)不斷。

當(dāng)年冬天，闊別張子容十余年的孟浩然，專程去溫州探望、慰勞好友?？斓綔刂輹r，他以詩代信，寫下《宿永嘉江，寄山陰崔國輔少府》，向入京的崔國輔匯報自己的旅程：我行窮水國，君使入京華。相去日千里，孤帆天一涯。臥聞海潮至，起視江月斜。借問同舟客，何時到永嘉？

孟浩然是親歷了溫州山水的清秀，而著名詩人李白、杜甫，雖沒來過溫州，但都從謝詩中感受溫州山水并充滿景仰。如李白在《與周剛青溪玉鏡潭宴別》中，開篇就寫“康樂上官去，永嘉游石門。江亭有孤嶼，千載跡猶存”;在《送王屋山人魏萬還王屋》里也提到石門、孤嶼、謝康樂等。而杜甫在《送裴二虬作尉永嘉》中，也有“孤嶼亭何處？天涯水氣中。故人官就此，絕境興誰同。隱吏逢梅福，游山憶謝公”句。

繼孟浩然張子容之后，唐代詩人顧況、魏萬、張又新、方干、郭密之等唐代詩人也沿此水路來去溫州，留下不少詩作。從甌江山水詩路連接到唐詩之路，溫州堪稱源頭。孟的溫州之行，與張子容、魏萬等人，將謝靈運的甌江山水詩路走成了唐詩之路。

別致的繁榮景象

也正是因為兼具山水詩和唐詩之風(fēng)，“甌江山水詩路”被認為也是“浙東唐詩之路”南段的延伸以及浙西南以甌江流域為主干的擴散。這種形成，有其特殊的區(qū)域和空間原因。

古人水陸兩道兼行，從越州諸縣過天臺 、雁蕩、大若巖，以江心嶼為南端終點，郡城則以飛霞洞為代表;若以江心嶼為起點，上溯甌江，以石門洞為主要的節(jié)點，直至蓮都附近的南明山。從麗水出發(fā)，則順流而下，亦以江心嶼為終點。

從區(qū)域空間看，江心嶼處于甌江的出?？冢瑴贤ㄕ阄髂吓c東海，又處于閩粵與江浙的南北海道航線交匯的樞紐位置。江心嶼邊上的溫州港長期以來是浙南和閩東北最大的吐納口，擔(dān)負著浙南地區(qū)以及麗水、臺州、福建、寧德地區(qū)部分縣的內(nèi)外貿(mào)易貨物和旅客運輸中轉(zhuǎn)任務(wù)。因此，無論“甌江山水詩路”還是“浙東唐詩之路”的空間描述，江心嶼都不能忽略。

甌江還是浙西南物資運輸?shù)闹饕馈伤螘r期溫處兩地甌江水路交通開始走向鼎盛，“良材興販自處轉(zhuǎn)溫，以入于海者眾?！鄙嫌我粠a(chǎn)的木材、桐油，以及諸如漆器、酒、柑橘、茶葉等均順流而下，行銷各地，其中大宗貨物運輸以瓷器為主。元代龍泉窯青瓷大量外銷，占據(jù)全世界主要瓷器市場，出現(xiàn)了“甌江兩岸瓷窯林立，煙火相望，江上運瓷船舶來往如織”的繁榮景象。

運輸船經(jīng)由括甌水道沿路匯合景寧、青田、永嘉各地所出的青瓷產(chǎn)品抵達溫州港，從溫州港出發(fā)，途經(jīng)洞頭島海域，入海轉(zhuǎn)慶元（寧波）、泉州分銷南亞、東北亞，遠銷地中海沿岸各國，成為溫州“海上絲綢之路”的重要輸出商品和文化交流使者。以瓷器運輸為主的甌江流域水上交通線，鋪墊了甌江詩路的航道基礎(chǔ)。

甌江沿岸風(fēng)景如畫，吸引了歷代眾多賢達名士，他們或任職，或行旅，或寓居，或居鄉(xiāng)，留下了大量詩詞佳作和摩崖題刻。處州摩崖帶分布于仙都、南明山、三巖寺、石門洞、太鶴山等處，溫州地區(qū)詩刻摩崖多在雁蕩山、郡城的九山諸處，及至瑞安、仙巖以及南下平陽。題材有簡單的記游題刻，更多的是山水詩詞。據(jù)其題跋者身份所示，一類主要是官宦、文人，一類僧道。在人口流動管制的古代社會，這幾種人有更多的機會遠行。古代鮮有純粹的為了寫詩而寫詩的采風(fēng)旅游。

史書記載，謝在任“縱放為娛”，其實身為地方長官，公務(wù)巡察應(yīng)是首務(wù)，謝靈運在溫州的一年，足跡遍及各地。后人大多追隨謝康樂的心跡，在仕途顛簸之中，觸景生情，寫下諸如“臥聞海潮至，起視江月斜。借問同舟客，何時到永嘉”之類的行旅詩。

僧道的山水詩更多禪意的灑脫，像擔(dān)當(dāng)和尚來游龍湫，句云：“君不見，柔沫牽來無斷痕，我身欲化為冰魂。少焉輒欲生頭角，一股傾湫還倒岳。不須霹靂能上天，聊在人間蛻個殼?！倍殴馔ブ浱煜露刺旄５?，儼然以大地為仙窟，以氣息為車馬，溝通天人。這是何等闊大的詩意啊。旅行者不同的身份、境遇、感觸，書寫了“甌江山水詩路”豐富的題材。

情滿甌越大地

山清水秀，物產(chǎn)豐饒。甌江山水詩路文化的底蘊潛移默化在影響著現(xiàn)代的東甌大地。

在浙江八大水系中，溫州就盤踞著甌江、飛云江、鰲江三大水系，另外還有縱橫市區(qū)的塘河水系，溫州到處是“水清可游、岸綠可閑、街繁可貿(mào)、景美可賞”的江南水鄉(xiāng)風(fēng)光。同時擁有雁蕩山、楠溪江、百丈漈三個國家級風(fēng)景名勝區(qū)和烏巖嶺、南麂島兩個國家級自然保護區(qū)。

靈運之后，歷代詩人墨客慕名溫州山水接踵而至，他們或徜徉甌江口，或深入楠溪江、雁蕩山等風(fēng)景腹地，吟詠不絕。南北朝醫(yī)藥家、文學(xué)家陶弘景，唐代山水田園派詩人孟浩然，唐朝詩人、畫家王維，唐末詩人、文學(xué)家、思想家羅隱，宋代女詞人李清照，南宋文學(xué)家、史學(xué)家陸游，宋末政治家、文學(xué)家文天祥，以及當(dāng)代詩人、散文家余光中，朦朧詩派的代表人物舒婷等，不勝枚舉。

這些大家的創(chuàng)作，也在影響著溫州本地的詩人們。溫州歷代詩人輩出，是中國有名的詩鄉(xiāng)。著名的有：王十朋（1112-1171），南宋著名的政治家、詩人，溫州江心寺楹聯(lián)“云朝朝，朝朝朝，朝朝朝散;潮長長，長長長，長長長消?！奔礊樗};葉適（1150-1223），南宋著名哲學(xué)家、文學(xué)家，“永嘉學(xué)派”的主要代表人物;林景熙（1242-1310年），南宋末期愛國詩人，詩文風(fēng)格幽婉、沉郁，又不失豪放，共留下詩文16卷;現(xiàn)代詩人唐湜（1920-2005），九葉派詩人、詩評家，其長篇敘事詩和十四行詩在詩壇形成一個高峰。

“敢為天下先”的溫州精神是海洋文化、山地文化等結(jié)合而成。溫州當(dāng)代有一批作家、學(xué)者在挖掘溫州的山水文化，如作家許宗斌，敘寫雁蕩山文化，以山水與人為相結(jié)合，有《雁蕩山筆記》行世。學(xué)者章方松足跡遍布溫州山山水水，文章詮釋溫州山水文化的生命之根，有《大羅山筆記》問世。

建立在甌江山水詩路文化底蘊上的“永嘉學(xué)派”也正在廣泛影響著現(xiàn)代溫州，溫州也是中國首批14個沿海開放城市之一，浙南經(jīng)濟、文化、交通中心，改革開放以來，形成了“經(jīng)世致用”為核心的“溫州模式”，取得了較大發(fā)展。溫州旅游業(yè)收入占全市GDP比重大，并且還在積極推進全域旅游，打造全景覆蓋、全時體驗、全業(yè)融合、全民共享旅游盛宴的成果。

對于溫州，“甌江山水詩”這一品牌，就像含苞欲放的花蕾，必將怒放于甌江兩岸，香飄在甌越大地。

The Oujiang River Landscape Poetry Road： Romantic and Special

“Turbulence runs right across and the lone isle stands elegant in the river. The cloud and the sun reflect each other while the sky and the river share their freshness.” This is the sigh made by Xie Lingyun （385-433） over the reflection of the sky in the river at Jiangxin Isle. As the main tourist route of ancient southern Zhejiang landscape， the poetic cultural background contained by the Oujiang River Landscape Poetry Road has its own unique beauty and poetic endowment.

The Oujiang River is not only the origin of Chinas landscape poetry; it is more a golden lifeline that connects Wenzhou and Lishui. Historically， the two regions， geographically linked， shared an identical cultural origin. The translucent celadon started out from here across the seas to become a shiny cultural emissary on the Silk Road. According to rough estimates， along the Oujiang River， there are over 6，300 poems dating before the Qing dynasty （1616-1911）， more specifically， 25 ancient poems from before Tang （618-907）， 46 from Tang， 439 from Song （960-1279）， 13 “qu” （air or aria） from Yuan （1271-1368）， and over 5，800 poems from the Yuan， Ming （1368-1644） and Qing dynasties. Hundreds of poets climbed mountains and crossed streams to seek the immortal soul of poetry.

Tang poetry road is usually believed to have originated from literatis escape to southern China during the Eastern Jin dynasty （317-420）， and the Oujiang River Landscape Poetry Road started at roughly the same time. The two roads were both culturally connected with Xie Lingyun.

Xie Lingyun， a native of Yangxia， Chenjun （present-day Taikang county， Henan province）， was born in Shining， Kuaiji （present-day Shangyu district in Shaoxing city， Zhejiang province）. He was the pioneer of the landscape poetry school in China's literary history， whose most famous poem is perhaps “Poem of the Mountain Residence”. He was also the first great tourist cited in history.

In 422， Xie Lingyun was appointed prefect of Yongjia， Wenzhou. When he first came to Wenzhou， Xie came up with such well-known lines as “Spring grass grows over the pond and birds chirp in the willows.” （“Ascending the Tower over the Pond”）

Jiangxin Isle is located in the midstream Oujiang River. It is one of the four major lone isles in China and enjoys the reputation of “the isle of Chinese poems and ancient beacon of the world.” On the isle two pagodas rise in the air from east to west to highlight the Jiangxin Temple. There are also sites of interest such as former site of the British Consulate， Ancestral Hall of Lord Wenxin of the Song Dynasty， Haoran Building， Pavilion of Lord Xie and Chengxian Pavilion.

The “Tower over the Pond” was built in memory of poet Xie Lingyun， made famous by his poem bearing the same name. In the garden there are rockeries， grotesque rocks and winding corridors， and buildings such as “Grass Pavilion”， “Pavilion in Memory of Xie”， “Study of 12 Plum Blossoms” and “Flying Cloud Mountain House”.

After that， Xies footprints covered， apart from the prefectural town， localities including Ouhai， Rui'an， Pingyang， Yongjia， Yueqing. Xie was especially fond of the Nanxi River in Yongjia， long known for its beautiful water， grotesque rocks， multiple waterfalls， elegant woods and ancient villages. Within the region there are such scenic spots as Hibiscus Village， Cangpo Village， Lishui Street and Longpu Fairy Cave. The 150km-long Nanxi River is reputed as “a forever landscape poem and the most beautiful peach blossom spring.” During Xie's tenure as prefect of Yongjia， he toured around the place， leaving behind a great number of poems describing the landscape of the Nanxi River.

“If I could serve as long as Xie Lingyun did in Yongjia， I could make my place as beautiful as Yongjia.” This was a sigh made by Su Dongpo. Starting from Xie Lingyun， the “founding father” of Chinas landscape poetry， men of letters of all ages showed their fondness for Wenzhou， and Du Fu （712-770）， Meng Haoran （689-740）， Han Yu （768-824）， Shen Kuo （1031-1095）， Xu Xiake （1587-1641） and so on left behind their poetry and calligraphy about the local landscape.

If Xie Lingyuns poems of Oujiang made the Oujiang River a poetry road of landscape， then poems of Oujiang written by Meng Haoran and so on proved it as a road of Tang poetry.

Meng Haoran was a native of todays Xiangyang city， Hubei province， famous for his “This spring morning in bed I'm lying， not to awake till the birds are crying”. He was called “Hermit of Lumen” in his early years as he used to retreat into the local Lumen Mountain together with his fellow countryman and friend Zhang Zirong （？-？）.

In the heyday of the Tang dynasty， Meng Haoran went to the capital city of Luoyang for the imperial exam but failed. Low in spirits， he went to the scenic Wuyue region （mainly present-day Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces） to tour like Xie Lingyue venting his frustration by way of writing landscape poems. He described his losing state of mind： “In as long as thirty years， I made achievements neither military nor literary. Seeking landscape in Wuyue， I am tired of the world in Luoyang.”

At the time， Cui Guofu （？-？）， a close friend of Meng Haoran and also a poet， was the county commandant of Shanyin in Kuaiji prefecture （present-day Shaoxing city）. Meng cherished their friendship so much that he started out from Luoyang to see him and wrote an emotional “To Chief Cui Guofu in Shanyin from the River”. Zhang Zirong， another old friend of his， though serving in the government after excelling in the imperial exam， was demoted to be the county commandant of Yuecheng （present-day Yueqing county， Wenzhou city） at that moment. The distressed Zhang Zirong sadly described in his poem that he was caught between a “poor sea” and an “evil creek”， “hearing tigers roar sometimes and apes whistle every night”. To Zhang， it was all barren hills and unruly rivers overrun with beasts， and “years plagued by malaria”， which made him homesick.

In that winter， Meng Haoran， who had not seen Zhang Zirong for over a decade， made a special visit to his good friend in Wenzhou. When he was about to reach Wenzhou， he wrote a poem “Staying on Yongjia River， to County Commandant Cui Guofu of Shanyin” as a letter to report his trip to Cui Guofu who had already gone to the capital： “I am travelling in a poor area， while you are on a mission to the capital. We are thousands of miles apart and a lone sail is wondering afar. When I sleep I hear the sea tide and when I rise I see the moon over the river. I'd ask my fellow travelers， when will I arrive in Yongjia？”

Meng Haoran did experience personally the pretty landscape of Wenzhou， but famous poets Li Bai and Du Fu， though never personally in Wenzhou， both “saw” the landscape of Wenzhou through Xie Lingyuns poems and were full of admiration. For example， Li Bai wrote “the high official goes to Xies Pavilion and tours the Stone Gate at Yongjia. At the river pavilion there is a lone isle， whose ruins stay after a thousand years”.

Because of its combination of landscape poetry and Tang poetry， the Oujiang River Landscape Poetry Road is regarded also to be the southern extension of the Tang Poetry Road in East Zhejiang and its expansion to southwest Zhejiang with the Oujiang River basin as the trunk. Such a formation has its special regional and spatial causes.

Ancient people travelled both on water and land from various counties of Yuezhou past Tiantai and Yandang Mountains， Daruoyan to Jiangxin Isle as its southern terminal. The prefecture town was represented by Feixia Cave. One started from Jiangxin Isle up the Oujiang River with the Stone Gate Cave as the main point all the way to Nanming Mountain near Liandu district in Lishui city. Starting from Lishui and travel downstream the Oujiang River they reached Jiangxin Isle as terminus.

With regard to regional space， Jiangxin Isle is located at the estuary of the Oujiang River connecting southwest Zhejiang and the East China Sea. It is also located in the hub position where the southern and northern navigation routes of Fujian， Guangdong， Jiangsu and Zhejiang meet. Wenzhou Port beside Jiangxin Isle has long been the largest cargo depot in southern Zhejiang and northeastern Fujian， bearing the transit mission of domestic and foreign trade cargo and passenger transportation in those areas. Therefore， in both the Oujiang River Landscape Poetry Road and Tang Poetry Road in East Zhejiang， Jiangxin Isle cannot be ignored.

The Oujiang River is also the main waterway of cargo transportation in southwestern Zhejiang. During the Song dynasties the waterway transportation of the Oujiang River started to prosper in that “good materials go from Wenzhou to the sea”. Wood and tung oil produced in the upper reaches and products such as lacquerware， wine， oranges and tea all went downstream to be sold elsewhere. The bulk cargo was mainly porcelain. In the Yuan dynasty， celadon of Longquan kiln was exported in large quantity to occupy the major porcelain markets of the world， leading to the prosperous sight of “kilns standing everywhere along the Oujiang River with fires burning here and there， and ships carrying porcelain were shuttling”.

The picturesque scene along the Oujiang River attracted celebrities of all generations. They took official positions， travelled， or lived there， leaving behind a large amount of good poems and cliff inscriptions.

Beautiful mountains and clear water yield rich produce. The cultural deposits of the Landscape Poetry Road silently influence the modern land of Dongou （Wenzhou and part of Taizhou）. After Xie Lingyun， poets of later generations came to Wenzhou in succession. They strolled around the estuary of the Oujiang River， or deep into the hinterland of the Nanxi River and Yandang Mountain reciting poems. Among them are pharmacologist and litterateur Tao Hongjing （456-536） of the Southern and Northern dynasties， poet and painter Wang Wei （701-761） of the Tang dynasty， poet， litterateur and thinker Luo Yin （833-910） of the late Tang dynasty， woman poet Li Qingzhao （1084-1155） of the Song dynasty， litterateur and historian Lu You （1125-1210） of the Southern Song dynasty， statesman and litterateur Wen Tianxiang （1236-1283） of the late Sothern Song dynasty， and the contemporary poet and prose-writer Yu Guangzhong （1928-2017）， etc.

The Wenzhou spirit of daring to be the first is a product of the combination between the marine culture and mountain culture. The Yongjia School established on the cultural deposits of Oujiang River Landscape Poetry Road is also widely influencing todays Wenzhou. Wenzhou is one of the first 14 coastal cities of China open to the outside world and the economic， cultural and communication center of southern Zhejiang. Since reform and opening up， the Wenzhou Model focusing on managing the world with pragmatism has gained remarkable progress. The revenue of the tourist industry of Wenzhou accounts for a large share in the citys GDP.

For Wenzhou， the Oujiang River Landscape Poetry Road is like a flower bud that is soon to bloom， destined to bring charm and fragrance to both banks of the Oujiang River.