浙東唐詩之路：經(jīng)典詩歌 浸潤人心

這是一條由無數(shù)文人墨客踏就的文化古道。

1300年前，無數(shù)唐朝詩人，從錢塘江出發(fā)，經(jīng)紹興，自鏡湖向南經(jīng)曹娥江、剡溪，溯流而上，經(jīng)新昌的石城、沃洲、天姥，最后抵達天臺山，一路載酒揚帆、擊節(jié)高歌，留下了1500多首經(jīng)典唐詩。他們行走的這一線路，被今人稱為“浙東唐詩之路”。

游歷過這條“詩路”的詩人里，既有像青年就入臺越、冶游忘歸達四年之久的杜甫，和四入浙江、三至越中、二登臺岳的李白這樣的超級巨星;有“初唐四杰”中的盧照鄰、駱賓王;有“飲中八仙”中的賀知章、崔宗之;有“中唐三俊”的元稹、李紳、李德裕;有“晚唐三羅”的羅隱、羅鄴、羅虬。

他們或單騎仗劍做壯游，或淡泊紅塵、投身山水做隱游，或“時危身適越”做避亂游，或做經(jīng)濟考察游……

據(jù)統(tǒng)計，《全唐詩》記載的2200余位詩人中有400多位詩人、《唐才子傳》收載的278位才子中有170余位游歷過這條風景線。

緣起賀李杜

關(guān)于浙東唐詩之路的起源，有一種說法就是李白尋訪賀知章之路，后來的仿效者就絡(luò)繹不絕了。

公元745年，紹興人賀知章因病上疏請求還鄉(xiāng)山陰。那年，他86歲。賀老爺子回家路線，走的便是“詩路”中的精華段——從錢塘江經(jīng)紹興鑒湖、山陰道和若耶溪一帶。

唐詩古道上的稽山鏡水，以及熟悉的故鄉(xiāng)生活和風土人情，帶給賀知章很多的快樂，也為他人生的最后時光畫上一個圓滿的句號。

賀知章與李白是忘年交，是賀知章發(fā)現(xiàn)了李白，向唐玄宗推薦了這位“謫仙人”。唐玄宗任命李白為翰林學士，一炮而紅。

李白第二次漫游浙東時，興沖沖專程去老宅拜訪賀知章，一進門才得知，伯樂已經(jīng)作古。李白感念他的知遇之情，作了《對酒憶賀監(jiān)二首》，其一：“四明有狂客，風流賀季真。長安一相見，呼我謫仙人。昔好杯中物，翻為松下塵。金龜換酒處，卻憶淚沾巾。”

李白的游浙東情懷，還因有對謝靈運的仰慕。

24歲時他在《秋下荊門》中告訴友人：“霜落荊門江樹空，布帆無恙掛秋風。此行不為鱸魚鲙，自愛名山入剡中”。

公元726年的夏天，他在揚州寫下《別儲邕之剡中》：“借問剡中道，東南指越鄉(xiāng)。舟從廣陵去，水入會稽長。竹色溪下綠，荷花鏡里香。辭君向天姥，拂石臥秋霜?！?/p>

公元727年，他實在難以壓抑自己雀躍的靈魂，就經(jīng)大運河到臨安，又經(jīng)蕭山、會稽入剡中，最后登臨天臺山，看覽盡天臺山水。臨行前揮筆而就千古名篇《夢游天姥吟留別》：“天姥連天向天橫，勢拔五岳掩赤城。天臺四萬八千丈，對此欲倒東南傾。我欲因之夢吳越，一夜飛度鏡湖月。湖月照我影，送我至剡溪。謝公宿處今尚在，淥水蕩漾清猿啼。腳著謝公屐，身登青云梯?！?/p>

公元747年，李白到達天臺山，山上松杉扶疏，草木薰郁。在頂峰華頂，在虛無縹緲的云霧中，他寫下《登高丘而望遠》：登高丘而望遠海，六鰲骨已霜，三山流安在？扶桑半摧折，白日沉光彩。銀臺金闕如夢中，秦皇漢武空相待。精衛(wèi)費木石，黿鼉無所憑。君不見驪山茂陵盡灰滅，牧羊之子來攀登。盜賊劫寶玉，精靈竟何能。窮兵黷武今如此，鼎湖飛龍安可乘？”

縱觀李白這一生，對24歲的李白而言，盛唐之勢如日中天，他亦是躊躇滿志，意氣風發(fā)。謝靈運是他的榜樣，他慕其清新自然的詩意，更敬其劈山開道的豪舉，也因此他打定主意，要去謝靈運游過的山水，走他走過的路。

公元731年，唐詩之路上來了一位世家公子。他就是此后被譽為“詩圣”的杜甫。那年他二十歲，時任兗州縣令的父親杜閑不但沒被“父母在，不遠游”的傳統(tǒng)古訓束縛，而且鼓勵杜甫辭親遠游。杜甫這便開始了在越地的壯游。

杜甫甫至越地，迎接他的是一池鑒湖的瀲滟水色與遍地膚色白皙的越女。溪水兩旁，一群女子頭戴草帽，體態(tài)窈窕，她們蹲在溪邊，雙手拿著薄如蟬翼白如無物的紗。

千年前，這里曾經(jīng)是美女西施浣衣之地。從這里，杜甫一路南下，游會稽，訪禹穴，泛舟剡溪，抵臨天姥。江南漫游，讓這位沉郁頓挫的大詩人給他孤苦的晚年留下了一段美好的回憶。

處處皆成詩

浙東唐詩之路是一條水路泛舟，水盡登山而歌的游歷之路，更是一條山水、文化結(jié)合的吟詠之路。浙東唐詩之路的形成，是浙東山水之美逐漸被發(fā)現(xiàn)的過程。

“春路逶迤花柳前，孤舟晚泊就人煙。東山白云不可見，西陵江月夜娟娟。春江夜盡潮聲度，征帆遙從此中去。越國山川看漸無，可憐愁思江南樹?！睂O逖的這首《春日留別》，描寫了唐代西陵的情景。

詩中的西陵，是現(xiàn)在的西興古鎮(zhèn)。它坐落于杭州錢塘江南岸，南接白馬湖。歷史上曾是兩浙門戶，交通發(fā)達、地勢險要，自古為“浙東首地，寧、紹、臺之襟喉”。西興是浙東唐詩之路的起點，作為交通要沖，詩人們或憑欄懷古，或泛舟暢游，或夜宿西興。據(jù)不完全統(tǒng)計，西陵、固陵、樟亭，西陵驛、白馬湖、城山等涉及西興地域地名的詩篇，就有400首之多。其中，不乏李白、杜甫、白居易、蘇東坡等歷代名家的壯麗詩篇。

告別錢塘江邊的西興，唐代詩人們沿著浙東運河，一路南下，尋覓越中山水，鑒湖推篷，耶溪泛舟，山陰道行，龍山遠眺，詩人們或探幽訪勝，或寄情山水，或問道論學。杜甫在鑒湖邊，留下了“鑒湖五月涼”的詩句，說明周邊的生態(tài)環(huán)境非常好。鑒湖就是一幅水墨畫，“推篷四望水連空，一片蒲帆正飽風。”所謂的煙雨江南，正是如此。

水黛山青，湖光瀲滟，白鷺齊飛?！吧傩‰x家老大回”的賀知章曾面對這一方湖水，感慨道“惟有門前鏡湖水，春風不改舊時波”。李白也曾多次到過鑒湖，寫下了“鏡湖水如月，耶溪女似雪。新妝蕩新波，光景兩奇絕?！钡脑娋?。鑒水悠悠，源源不絕。一千多年來，鑒湖把柔媚與剛直，糅合在一湖清波中。歷史上對紹興“魚米之鄉(xiāng)”和“歷史文化名城”作出巨大貢獻的鑒湖，仍將一如繼往，滋養(yǎng)著這片土地。

“青娥埋沒此江濱，江樹颼飗慘暮云。文字在碑碑已墮，波濤辜負色絲文?！痹诮B興上虞，曹娥江靜靜流淌。江畔，佇立著一座曹娥廟。一條江，一座廟，都由一位女子的名字命名，千百年來，飽經(jīng)滄桑，仍吸引著無數(shù)文人墨客，紛至沓來，憑吊懷古。

上虞西南，有一座東山，這里層巒疊嶂，清波漣漪。因為謝安隱居東山二十年，留下了名傳千古的動人傳說，這里成為浙東唐詩之路上詩人心中的一座理想坐標，許多唐代詩人專程來到東山。唐代大詩人李白慕名而來，先后三次來東山，游覽勝景，他一生寫到東山的詩有37首。第三次到東山來，他說“不向東山久，薔薇幾度花。白云還自散，明月落誰家?！崩畎滓簧炎约罕茸雒髟隆＿@個時候，李白已經(jīng)五十多歲了，他想到，自己在哪里落腳，養(yǎng)老呢？其實，李白非常留戀東山，他曾經(jīng)希望，自己在東山與謝安相伴，在這里終老，但是身不由己，他還有許多事情要做。

“水作青龍盤石堤，桃花夾岸魯門西。若教月下乘舟去，何啻風流到剡溪?！边@條穿城而過的河流就是剡溪，古人暢游南方以水路為主，水盡則登山而歌，而剡溪則是登天臺山的必經(jīng)之路。在這條令人神往的路線上，有著許多水陸風光可供人欣賞，又有許多人文景觀、名勝古跡供人瞻仰，這對于崇尚漫游之風的唐代詩人來說真是踏破鐵鞋的理想之處。眾多詩人仰慕王謝、二戴等歸隱剡中之名，信敬魏晉遺風，南下尋蹤。他們經(jīng)錢塘，泛鑒湖，過曹娥，抵達剡溪，游歷嵊地，一路詩吟風月，詞弄華章。

謝靈運曾在在鞋底安裝兩個木齒，上山去掉前齒，下山去掉后齒，這種鞋被后人稱作“謝公屐”。天姥山也由于他的登臨，得到了很多唐代詩人的推崇。詩人李白寫下“天姥連天向天橫”的詩句，讓自己夢中游覽天姥山的詩歌流傳至今。古人寫下的詩篇，仍在歷史長河中回響。

一路顯風光

除此之外，隋開皇十八年，楊廣命司馬王弘在天臺山上建造寺廟，據(jù)智者大師遺書中“寺若成，國即清”，改寺名為國清寺。此后天臺宗諸祖都駐錫于此，國清寺也因此成為天臺宗的根本道場。國清寺歷代高僧輩出，四海弘揚天臺教法。海外僧人求法，也常常將天臺山作為目的地。

說不盡，看不厭，畫不完的天臺山，“山中何所有？白云抱幽石?！笔猴w瀑、華頂歸云、赤城棲霞、寒巖夕照，國清寺山門蒼松，桐柏宮的無為宗旨……在秀麗山水中，跟著唐詩，尋覓先賢蹤影，感受唐詩之路，為這里賦予的悠悠不盡的文化內(nèi)涵。天臺山是唐代詩人的主要目的地，也有一些詩人會繼續(xù)尋訪仙居、臨海。

“去年曾覽韋羌圖，云有仙人古篆書。千尺石巖無路到，不知蝌蚪字何如?！北彼握渭?、理學家陳襄，27歲赴任仙居縣令時，對仙居的神秘瑰麗發(fā)出感嘆;詩人張籍十分羨慕辛秘任樂安縣尉，感嘆“選得天臺山下住，一家全作學仙人?！辈粌H是美麗的風景，發(fā)生在仙居的成語故事，比如逢人說項、身后識方干，更是為這條文化之路打上了仙居的烙印。

在浙東唐詩之路上，還有一座臨海古城。

“家在雙峰蘭若邊，一聲秋磬發(fā)孤煙。山連極浦鳥飛盡，月上青林人未眠。”這是中唐詩人顧況在臨海任職時對臨海風物的描述。逶迤起伏的臺州府城墻、古色古香的紫陽老街、熠熠生輝的巾山古塔……位于浙江省臨海市的“臺州府城”，始建于晉，成于隋唐，北枕龍固，南接巾子，兩山相峙。在浙東的唐詩之路上面是處于一個腰部的位置，路上的交通可以到紹興、寧波到杭州以及到長安洛陽，南邊可以到溫州、福州、廣州，水上交通又處于一個東西的腰部。臺州府城是向海外輸出臺州文化的一個啟航地，又是跟海外進行文化交流、商貿(mào)往來的一個重要的口岸。在浙東唐詩之路上是南來北往的人們的集散地。

吟一首詩，看千年經(jīng)典惹人戀;歌一闕詞，讓蕩氣回腸永流傳。李白夢游，杜甫歸帆，白傅垂文，詩人們且行且歌，一路風光一路詩，踏成一條唐詩之路。

在流淌著文化自信的青山綠水間，一場場波瀾壯闊的閱讀盛典在不斷演繹，是孟郊的“青山行不盡，綠水去何長”，王昌齡的“輝輝遠洲映，暖暖澄湖光”，也是岑參的“城邊樓枕海，郭里樹侵湖”，許渾的“赤城云雪深，山客負歸心”。山水與詩歌相合，自然與文化共生，任時間荏苒，滄海桑田，浙東唐詩之路上這一首首經(jīng)典詩歌，依然浸潤人心，有著無限的生命力。

千年的歲月已流淌而去，當年追慕先賢的詩人們可能未曾想到，曾站在橋上看風景的他們，又再度成為了別人眼中的風景。而浙東的山河，不僅哺育了一方百姓，也為中國奉獻出了一條光芒萬丈的唐詩之路。

The Tang Poetry Road in East Zhejiang： In the Footsteps of “Immortals” and Sages

Starting off from the Qiangtang River in Hangzhou， passing through Shaoxing via the Jinghu Lake and upstream the Caoe River and Shanxi River to the south， before arriving at Tiantai Mountain by way of Shicheng， Wozhou and Tianmu in Xinchang. This is an ancient cultural path that countless men of letters have treaded. Indeed， 1，300 years ago， numerous Tang poets set sail on the trail， wine freely flowing and in high spirits， leaving behind more than 1，500 classic poems along the way.

Befittingly， the route is now called “the Tang Poetry Road in East Zhejiang”. Such a “star-studded road” it is.

On top of the list of the Tang poets who took the journey along the same road are Du Fu （712-770）， who came to Zhejiang at a young age and stayed for four years， and Li Bai （701-762）， who visited Zhejiang four times， thrice to Yuezhong （present-day Shaoxing） and twice ascending the Tiantai Mountain. Followed by Lu Zhaolin （ca. 634-ca. 689） and Luo Binwang （ca. 626-ca. 684）， two of the “Four Paragons of the Early Tang”， and He Zhizhang （658-744） and Cui Zongzhi （？-？）， two of the “Eight Immortals Indulged in Wine”.? Then there are Yuan Zhen （779-831）， Li Shen （772-846） and Li Deyu （787-850）， the “Three Talents of Mid-Tang”， and Luo Yin （833-910）， Luo Ye （825-？） and Luo Qiu （？-？）， the “Three Luos of the Late Tang”...and many more.

According to statistics， over 400 of the 2，200-odd poets recorded in Quantangshi （Complete Tang Poems）， and more than 170 of the 278 poets collected in Tang Caizi Zhuan （Biographies of Eminent Tang Poets） had set foot on the route， for different reasons.

Some of them were on a tour to enrich their life experience， some to escape from the humdrum of life， some to look for shelter in times of turmoil， and still some to survey the areas economic development.

Why did the poets choose this particular route？ One popular theory ascribes it all to Li Bai. Or more precisely， Li Bai following the footsteps of He Zhizhang.

Despite their great difference in age， Li and He regarded each other as one of their best friends. Indeed， it is He who first bestowed upon Li his now commonly referred to nickname， the “Banished Immortal”， and recommended Li to the Tang emperor.

At a young age， Li went to the capital Changan （present-day Xian） to seek his political fortune. Without any friends there， Li lived alone in a small tavern. One day， he chanced upon He， who was already a senior official. Unbeknownst to Li， He had already heard of Li and his fascinating poems. Delighted to meet Li in person， He decided to buy him some drinks. Unfortunately， He didnt carry any money， but he was determined to treat Li. He then took off his gold-turtle baldric， a token for senior officials， and exchanged it for some wine. They boozed happily until both were drunk and their friendship was cemented.

In the year 745， He， already 86 years old and afflicted with illnesses， asked the Tang emperor to permit him to retire to his hometown Shanyin （present—day Shaoxing）. In Zhejiang， Hes journey home—from Qiantang River to Jianhu Lake， Shanyin Road and Ruoye River—is considered the best part of the Tang poetry road.

During Li Bais second trip to East Zhejiang a couple of years later， he made a special effort to visit He and travelled the same route as He did， only to find his old friend had already passed away. Li paid tribute to He and lamented his death：

“A ‘Wild Fellow in Siming there is， by the name of He Jizhen [He Zhizhangs courtesy name] he goes. The first time we met， a ‘Banished Immortal he called me. Alas， once a ‘Wine Immortal， all you left is a mound of earth under the pine tree. Instead of ‘gold in exchange for wine， now only tears I can see.”

Li Bais fascination with East Zhejiang also came from his admiration for Xie Lingyun （385-433）. One of the foremost poets in the Southern and Northern Dynasties （420-589）， Xie was a native of Kuaiji （part of present-day Shaoxing） and a descendant of the Xie Family， a famous noble clan. He was also known as Kangle Gong or Duke of Kangle by succeeding to the family dukedom. Xie was widely lauded as the pioneer in developing the landscape poetry genre， which has later become one of the major literature schools in China. In fact， his landscape poems earned him the recognition as the trailblazer of the modern-day East Zhejiang tourist route， which Li Bai was determined to cover.

Inspired by Xie， Li travelled extensively in East Zhejiang， and wrote many poems about the area. At the age of 24， he told his friends： “Not for stewed perch Im on this trip， but for great mountains Im on my way to Shanzhong [in present-day Shengzhou city].” In 726， he spoke of the areas sceneries longingly in Yangzhou： “Green are the bamboos and brooks， fragrant are the lotus flowers in mirror-like lakes.” And in 727， unable to suppress his wanderlust， Li Bai was on the way again， arriving in Linan （present-day Hangzhou） via the Grand Canal， before going on to Xiaoshan， Kuaiji and Shanzhong. When he finally ascended the Tiantai and Tianmu Mountains， one of the greatest poems was born， which was beautifully rendered into English by Xu Yuanchong， a renowned contemporary Chinese translator：

...

Mount Skyland threatens heaven， massed against the sky，

Surpassing the Five Peaks and dwarfing Mount Red Town.

Mount Heavens Terrace， five hundred thousand feet high.

Surpassing the Five Peaks and dwarfing Mount Red Town.

Mount Heavens Terrace， five hundred thousand feet high，

Nearby to the southeast， appears to crumble down.

Longing in dreams for Southern land， one night

I flew o'er Mirror Lake in moonlight.

My shadows followed by moonbeams

Until I reach Shimmering Streams，

Where Hermitage of Master Xie can still be seen，

And clearly gibbons wail oer rippling water green.

I put Xies pegged boot

Each on one foot，

And scale the mountain ladder to blue cloud.

...

（ “Mountain Skyland Ascended in a Dream： A Song of Farewell” or Mengyou Tianmu Yin Liubie， by Li Bai， translated by Xu Yuanchong）

Here “Mount Skyland” refers to Tianmu Mountain while “Mount Heaven” refers to Tiantai Mountain， and the poetic names just show their breathtaking grandeur. Located in present-day Shaoxing city， Shanxi River （“Shimmering Streams”）， through which to get to the mountains， and Jinghu Lake， literally “Mirror Lake” and also known as Jianhu Lake， have attracted the admirations of many a poet， including Du Fu， who set his foot in this area just a few years later and praised the river and the lake effusively. Unsurprisingly， Xie Lingyun， idolized by Li Bai， figures prominently in the poem. Xie is more than a poet; he is widely credited with inventing the “pegged boot”， as alluded to in the poem. The boots， commonly known as “Duke Xies Wooden Boots”， feature small pegs underneath which are removable depending on whether the wearer is on level ground or going up or down a slope， i.e. climbing a mountain. For Li Bai， he was eventually able to fulfil his dream of standing on top of Tianmu Mountain and Tiantai Mountain as Xie did; he was truly following Xies “bootsteps”.

More than a thousand years have passed since the Tang poets attempted to seek wisdom and inspiration from their predecessors whom they regarded as “immortals” and sages. They are now in turn being admired and appreciated. From Xixing Ancient Town， on the south bank of the Qiantang River in Hangzhou and the starting point of the East Zhejiang Poetry Road， to Tiantai Mountain， where it ends， their poems can be found everywhere. A rough estimate puts the number of Tang poems written about Xixing at over 400. To the southwest of Shangyu district in Shaoxing， stands Dongshan Mountain （literally “East Mountain”）， about which Li Bai alone composed 37 poems. Not to mention Shanxi River， Jinghu Lake， and the other places along the way. This is a veritable Tang poetry road.