云味十二道：不可或缺的風(fēng)景

云和縣擁有500多年種植歷史的云和雪梨松脆香甜，汁多味美，被授予“中華名果”稱號。云和黑木耳已成為國家地理標(biāo)志產(chǎn)品，而云和湖有機魚則是繼新安江有機魚之后獲國家環(huán)保總局認(rèn)證的第二個有機魚品種。

多年來，云和縣重視對傳統(tǒng)美食、鄉(xiāng)土菜肴的傳承，以本土食材制作形成“云味十二道”。云味菜肴天然環(huán)保，烹飪方法原始古樸，不僅深具云味特色、鄉(xiāng)土氣息，還代表了云和的獨特文化和歷史，成為一道不可或缺的風(fēng)景。

Yunhes enchanting and mesmerizing landscape is not its only attraction. Its abundant agricultural produce enables the area to develop a rich culinary tradition， epitomized by the signature “Twelve Dishes of Yunhe”.

More than just taste， the “Twelve Dishes of Yunhe” offer a unique window through which to discover the local geography， culture and history.

仙宮湖有機魚

Xiangong Lake Organic Fish

高峽出平湖，緊水灘大壩蓄水后形成了仙宮湖，仙宮湖常年水霧彌漫，且港汊眾多，湖水清澈，溶氧豐富，水質(zhì)達(dá)國家一類水標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，是全國第二個獲得國家有機食品認(rèn)證中心嚴(yán)格認(rèn)證的有機魚生產(chǎn)基地，擁有鰱魚、刀魚、君魚、桂魚、草魚、青魚、鳊魚、鯰魚、野生鱉、桃花魚、黃刺魚、淡水鱸魚、黃尾巴魚等100多種野生魚資源。

仙宮湖有機魚生態(tài)環(huán)保、味道鮮美，深受消費者歡迎，是“喝礦泉水長大”的有機魚。其中，以花鰱魚頭烹制的“仙宮魚頭”是云和的傳統(tǒng)名菜，味道鮮美、純正，外地游客到云和，都會品嘗仰慕已久的仙宮魚頭。

Silver carp， grass carp， herring， bream， catfish， freshwater bass， yellow tail fish…formed after the Jinshuitan Dam was built， Xiangong Lake is home to more than 100 native fishes， and the second organic fish breeding base certified by China Organic Food Certification Center.

The environment in and around the lake is well-protected， and the water quality is so high that the lakes organic fish are said to “have grown up drinking mineral water”. Xiangong Fish Head， cooked with the spotted silver carp head， is one of the best-known fish dishes in Yunhe， which is a must-eat for travelers.

咸蘿卜煎蛋

Fried Duck Eggs with Pickled Radish

明朝期間，有石寨“窮光蛋”，吃飯的時候，碗里總有一個“空殼”咸鴨蛋。一日，有媒婆說親，帶女子上門?！案F光蛋”跟女子聊至午時，順口留飯。但家里除了幾棵青菜，別無他物?！案F光蛋”前思后想，去鄰居家借兩個鴨蛋，誰知好事多磨?；丶业穆飞?，“窮光蛋”不小心把鴨蛋打破了。他生出一計，把黑不溜秋的咸蘿卜刴碎了跟鴨蛋打在一起，放到鍋里一煎，一盤菜就燒成了。哪知那女子對這道菜竟贊不絕口！因咸蘿卜形似人參，“窮光蛋”靈機一動，為他發(fā)明的“咸蘿卜煎蛋”取名“黑人參煎蛋”，傳至民間。

During the Ming （1368-1644） time， there once lived a poor lad in Shizhai village. When having meals， he would always put in his bowl an “empty” duck egg shell， in which he stuffed pickled radish. One day， a matchmaker dropped by， trying to introduce a young lady to the poor lad. They had a very pleasant talk， but when lunchtime came， he suddenly realized he had almost nothing to prepare for the guests. He went to the neighbors and at length borrowed two duck eggs， planning to boil them. But he broke the eggs！ “Why not fry them then？” he thought. He took out strips of dark pickled radish from the “empty” shell， chopped and then fried the eggs with them， hoping it could pass muster. To his surprise， the lady not only liked it; she loved it！ Then， another idea dawned on him. Seeing the resemblance between his dark pickled radish and the much-valued ginseng， he gave the newly invented food a much more glamorous name—“Fried Duck Eggs with Black Ginseng”， which later? became a popular local dish.

鄉(xiāng)村土豬腳

Braised Pig Trotters

古時，緊水灘鎮(zhèn)大源村有一位美麗又勤勞的姑娘，她有一雙巧手，房前屋后都種滿了莊稼。但村后有大野豬，常竄至莊稼地糟蹋糧食。一日，鄰村一位年輕的獵戶在姑娘的莊稼地足足守了3個晚上，用獵槍打死了大野豬，還把大野豬送到了姑娘家。有媒婆撮合了獵戶與姑娘的婚事。為了感謝媒婆，獵戶和姑娘送給媒婆一只大大的野豬腳，還燒了一大鍋野豬肉，請父老鄉(xiāng)親來分享。那以后，“給媒人送野豬腳”就成了村里的習(xí)俗。后來形成了“散豬?！保悄募夷膽魵⒘素i，都會邀請親朋好友、父老鄉(xiāng)親來“散豬福”，也叫“三豬?！?，即吃豬血、豬小腸和豬肝。

In the olden days， there once lived a beautiful and hardworking girl in Dayuan village of Jinshuitan township， who had grown crops all around her house. But much to her annoyance， a wild boar often snuck around， foraging for food and causing a lot of damage. One day， a young hunter from the neighboring village volunteered to deal with the beast. He waited for three days and three nights before eventually killing it， and then presented its body to the girl. A certain matchmaker heard about the story and happily lent a hand. To thank the matchmaker， the hunter and the girl， who had by then married， gifted her with a big trotter from the boar， cooked the remainder and shared the meat with fellow villagers. Since then， it has become a custom to “send the matchmakers pig trotters”. And whichever household kills a pig will invite friends and fellow villagers to enjoy the meat， called “San Zhu Fu” or spreading happiness through pork.

酒糟黃瓜泥鰍

Stewed Mudfish with DistillersGrains and Cucumber

云和“九山半水半分田”，在長期的勞動生活中，人們因地制宜，烹制出“酒糟黃瓜泥鰍”這道人間美味。長期以來，云和民間就有自釀黃酒的習(xí)俗，自釀的黃酒以稻米、小麥等為主要原料，要經(jīng)過蒸煮、加曲、糖化、發(fā)酵、壓榨、過濾等一系列程序。而黃酒釀造產(chǎn)生的酒糟，含有豐富的氨基酸、維生素、蛋白質(zhì)、脂肪等。而黃瓜，據(jù)《本草綱目》中記載，有清熱、解渴、利水、消腫之功效。酒糟去泥鰍腥氣，泥鰍的肉汁經(jīng)過慢火燉燜，滲入黃瓜。酒糟香醇，黃瓜富含汁液、泥鰍鮮美滑膩，“酒糟黃瓜泥鰍”這道美食，歷朝歷代備受食客推崇。

For a long time， Yunhe people have been brewing their own yellow rice wine. The distillersgrains from the wine are rich in amino acids， vitamins， proteins， and fats. On the other hand， cucumber， according to the Compendium of Materia Medica，can clear internal heat and quench thirst， and have various other medicinal values. Combine the above two ingredients with mudfish， and stew them slowly until they are ready， you get the unique dish. Indeed， during the stewing process， the distillers grains can help remove the fishy smell from the mudfish， and the cucumber， seeped with the mudfish juice， is particularly munchy.

汀州白玉筍

Tingzhou “White Jade” Bamboo Shoots

明末清初，云和等地由于長期戰(zhàn)亂，人口大量減少，當(dāng)?shù)毓俑膭钔鈦砣藛T落戶墾荒?？滴踔燎∧觊g，福建長汀、上杭、寧化等縣的汀州人大量遷至云和。其中的黃氏屬于孟宗的老家江夏郡，唐末遷至福建汀州。

汀州人居住在緊水灘庫區(qū)大源、赤石、庫北及朱村一帶，盛產(chǎn)竹筍，而雷筍色白如雪、松脆爽口、營養(yǎng)豐富，汀州人視其為山珍美味，封其“白玉筍”雅號?！鞍子窆S”是待客上品，若是在產(chǎn)筍期，主人會以鮮美的“白玉筍”招待客人。因鮮筍不易保存，汀州人便把吃不完的鮮筍制作成筍衣、筍干，“筍衣?lián)涞啊本褪峭≈萑说囊坏烂朗场?/p>

At the end of Ming and the start of Qing （1616-1911）， when dynastic change caused much turmoil， local population drastically decreased in Yunhe. Later， with the support of the local government， many people from Tingzhou （parts of present-day Sanming city and Longyan city in Fujian）， relocated to Jinshuitan area in Yunhe.

To the delight of those Tingzhou people， there was an abundance of bamboos in the area. They loved eating the pearly bamboo shoots so much that they dubbed them “white jade”. To better savor the “white jade”， Tingzhou people would usually chop the shoots and dry them as strips or peel the shoots into thin layers and dry them， the latter of which would often be cooked together with scrambled eggs.

云和黑木耳

Yunhe Black Fungus

本世紀(jì)初，云和菇民鄭云隆利用木制玩具的廢棄木屑、邊角料取代椴木培育黑木耳，成功研制出“代料黑木耳栽培技術(shù)”。云和黑木耳朵形美觀、肉質(zhì)厚、光澤、耐泡、脆嫩、味美、口感好、營養(yǎng)豐富，是國家地理標(biāo)志保護產(chǎn)品，“代料黑木耳栽培技術(shù)”還通過千名“云和師傅”傳播到各地，造福全國菇農(nóng)。

In early 2000s， a local mushroom farmer by the name of Zheng Yunlong successfully developed a novel way of growing black fungus. Instead of basswood， Zheng， after many trials and tribulations， would cultivate the mushroom by using scrap wood left over from making wooden toys. The method proved to be not only equally effective， if not more， but more environmentally friendly and cost effective. Yunhe black fungus is now well known for its good taste and high nutritious values， and the new cultivation technique is also benefiting mushroom farmers all over China， thanks to the help of thousands of “Yunhe Masters”.

冰鎮(zhèn)云和雪梨

Chilled Yunhe Snow Pear

相傳，在很久以前，云和鳳凰山腳住著一個心地善良的孤寡老婆婆，一年冬天，老婆婆救下一名差點凍死的老乞丐，帶回家中每天都燒番薯湯送給老乞丐，老乞丐的病情慢慢地好了起來。老乞丐病好了后，要出去要飯了，為表謝意，送老婆婆一株樹，以保其一輩子衣食無憂。他將手中打狗棒插在門前的空地上，手指一指，打狗棒立刻抽出枝條、生出葉子來了，結(jié)了許多碗口大的果子，味道香甜，皮薄肉嫩水分多，取名“神仙果”。有一年，云和城發(fā)生一種瘟疫，有病人吃了神仙果，病就好了，一場瘟疫就靠神仙果撲滅了。

神仙果好吃又可治病，從那以后，宮廷官府設(shè)宴，有錢人家請客，都少不了它。偌大的鳳凰山前，很快變成了一個大果園。老婆婆的神仙果，就是中華名果——云和雪梨，同時也是國家地理標(biāo)志保護產(chǎn)品。大果園就是云和著名的梨園，位于現(xiàn)在的梨園路一帶。

Long long ago， there once lived a kind-hearted granny at the foot of the Phoenix Mountain in Yunhe. One winter， she chanced upon an old beggar who was almost freezing to death. The granny brought him home immediately and then cooked sweet potato soup for him every day. Overtime， the old beggar recovered. To show his gratitude， he gave the granny a tree. With just one click of his fingers， branches suddenly grew and leaves sprouted out， fruit as big as a bowl already dangling all over the tree. Called “Fruit of the Immortal”， it was not only sweet in taste and tender in flesh;it could also cure diseases. By now， you may have already guessed： this magic fruit is in fact the famed Yunhe snow pear.

風(fēng)肉炒蒲瓜干

Air-dried Salty Meat Stir-fried with Dried Calabash Strips

蒲瓜，民間稱“蒲兒”，又稱“葫蘆”，是舊時農(nóng)村最為司空見慣的瓜類蔬菜，具有清心熱、潤心肺、除煩渴、利小腸、利水消腫、通淋散結(jié)等功效。亦可將新鮮蒲瓜去皮洗凈，切成薄片，晾在篩子上，放在陽光下照曬，或在通風(fēng)處晾干，薄如蟬翼的“蒲瓜干”便做成了。云和農(nóng)村過年時還有做“風(fēng)吹肉”的習(xí)俗，風(fēng)一吹，便會散發(fā)出絲絲的香味，“風(fēng)吹肉”的制作比較簡單，只要把鹽抹在切成條塊狀的新鮮肉上，用醬油浸泡一個晚上，掛在自家屋檐下風(fēng)干，三五日即可。云和人將這兩樣食材合在一起，成為“風(fēng)吹肉炒蒲瓜干”，既入味，又爽口，吃起來還“篤篤”作響，是云和人和外來客人的最愛。

Calabash， or gourd， is one of the most commonly consumed vegetables in the rural area， which is believed to have a number of therapeutic values. Yunhe people would often peel the gourd and slice it into thin pieces before sun-dry or air-dry them. They then stir-fry the dried pieces with air-dried salty meat， making it another signature dish in the local cuisine.

風(fēng)爐豆腐肉

Meat Pot with Salted Tofu

赤石一帶臨甌江，一到秋冬，天氣濕冷，民間有圍爐吃飯的習(xí)慣。人們把鹽鹵豆腐、土豬肉和一些香料放在鍋里，加些水，置于燃著炭火的風(fēng)爐之上。煮沸后，鍋里散發(fā)出撲鼻的肉香和豆腐香。由于鹽鹵豆腐和土豬肉的硬度、彈性、韌性都較強，越煮越有嚼勁，而且越煮越香，十分誘人。

Close to the Oujiang River， Chishi area is often quite damp and cold during autumn and winter， and people here have long had a habit of enjoying their meals by the fireside. One of the main courses is the meat pot with salted tofu. Usually placed on top of a charcoal stove， the pot is stuffed with salted tofu， pork and condiments， as well as water. When the water boils， the delectables from the pot would make anyone salivate.

牛奶藤柴火雞

Braised Chicken with Wax-leaved Climber

牛奶有廣泛的藥用價值，它可以祛風(fēng)散寒，除濕通絡(luò)，消腫止痛，去火解毒，用于治療腰痛、腹痛、骨折、癰瘡、水腫、癬疥，果實還具有滋陰、補陽、強心作用。云和人在燒制雞時，都要在土鍋里加一把牛奶藤，用柴火慢慢熬制，用以祛風(fēng)散寒，去火解毒，滋補身子。

Wax-leaved climbers are believed to have a variety of medicinal values. Thats why when cooking chicken， people in Yunhe always prefer to put a handful of the plant into the braising pot， and then let it simmer for some time before the meat is tender enough and ready.

云河溪螺

Yunhe River Snail

相傳，南宋時石浦村有對年輕夫妻，十分恩愛。婚后不久，丈夫就要運送一批陶瓷到溫州，妻子依依不舍。半月后，估摸著朝思暮想的丈夫就要回來了，妻子就到甌江摸了一大盆螺螄，生起灶火，洗凈鐵鍋，倒入一湯匙的茶油，再倒入早早備好的一大盆螺螄，撒一小把鹽、幾只花椒，用鐵瓢窸窸窣窣地炒幾下，再向鍋里倒入一瓢水，然后蓋上鍋蓋……

妻子來到埠頭，丈夫剛上岸。俗話說小別勝新婚，小兩口說說笑笑地回家了?！鞍パ?，瞧我這記性，鍋里還燒著螺螄呢?！碑?dāng)妻子打開鍋蓋時，卻有一陣特別的香味撲鼻而來，定睛一看，鍋里的水已經(jīng)干了，每個螺螄上都結(jié)著一層白白的鹽霜！用竹簽挑了螺螄——咀嚼，萬萬沒想到，這螺螄肉居然十分松脆、入味、可口，簡直就是下酒的上品！因為思夫心切，妻子歪打正著，發(fā)現(xiàn)了螺螄的新吃法。驚喜之余，夫妻倆把這種方法烹制的螺螄稱為“望夫螺”，最終成就一道美食——椒鹽螺螄。

During the Southern Song dynasty （1127-1279）， a young and loving couple once lived in Shipu village. One day， not long after their marriage， the husband had to deliver a batch of ceramics to Wenzhou. Half a month later， when he came back， the anxious wife had long waited at the pier. As the saying goes， “absence makes the heart grow fonder”， and the couple happily made their way home.“Oh my！” the wife suddenly exclaimed， “I forgot I was cooking and the wok is still on the stove.” It turned out she had gone to the Oujiang River earlier that day and caught a basin of river snails; she put a spoonful of tea seed oil， fried the river snails with Sichuan pepper and then poured some water into the wok， preparing to feast her husband.

Expecting burned meat all over the place， they were overjoyed to smell a special aroma. While the water just dried up， each river snail was covered with salt frost， the meat very crisp and delicious！ They even named it the “Waiting-for-Husband River Snail”， and this is how the dish—river snail with salt and pepper—came about.

麻葉粿

Ramie Leaf Rice Cake

開春之后，山區(qū)農(nóng)民就會摘取新鮮嫩苧葉，與糯米飯一起放在石臼中搗爛，均勻搓揉，形成青翠欲滴的飯團，放在蒸籠中蒸熟。這是最常見的麻葉粿，蒸熟后還是綠的，很有嚼勁。也可以把飯團搟成薄皮，油炸后金黃酥脆、清香甘潤。薄皮還可以包上餡，蒸熟后就成了綠色的蒸餃。麻葉粿是純手工制作的天然食品，從采麻葉到成品上桌，整個過程就像小孩玩“過家家”，充滿了童趣，原始濃郁的鄉(xiāng)土氣息備受人們的喜愛。現(xiàn)在，制作麻葉粿成了云和梯田景區(qū)的特色農(nóng)耕體驗項目，吸引了不少游客。

Fresh ramie leaves are harvested beginning from early spring every year， which are then cleaned and ground together with gluttonous rice， before being kneaded into dough balls of lush green and steamed. Other ways of preparing ramie leaf rice cakes include deep-frying the dough after rolling the balls into thin layers and stuffing the cake like dumplings. Now making the rice cakes has become a popular way for tourists to experience authentic local customs.

（本欄目圖片由云和縣委宣傳部提供）