大運(yùn)河詩路：大地上的詩行

京杭大運(yùn)河無疑是人類文明史上的杰作。在廣袤的中國大地上，京杭大運(yùn)河如威龍出世，沿著它的走向，我們從京城來到天堂杭州。一路上，是巨人握筆，在大地上寫下的流傳千年的詩行，而這些詩行，既有大氣磅礴的高山仰止，亦有小橋流水的淺吟低唱，既有蒼茫艱苦的長途跋涉，也有輕盈靈動(dòng)的美曼舞路。

尋跡江南好去處

隋代開鑿的名為通濟(jì)渠的大運(yùn)河，唐代稱為汴河或汴水，其連接黃河和淮河，西通河洛，南達(dá)江淮，成為唐代大運(yùn)河的主要河段，南方的物資和商旅，從水路到洛陽和長安都要由此經(jīng)過，因此唐詩對它的描寫幾乎涉及和其相關(guān)的各個(gè)方面。這些繽紛多彩的唐詩，把多元的大運(yùn)河呈現(xiàn)在人們面前。

在浩如煙海的唐詩中以大運(yùn)河為審美對象的詩歌創(chuàng)作數(shù)量眾多。張志和《漁歌子·西塞山前白鷺飛》、白居易《憶江南·江南好》、柳永《望海潮·東南形勝》等名篇，勾勒了江南古韻和絲路盛景。

隋朝開鑿了大運(yùn)河，但是由于隋朝“功成力盡人旋亡”（王泠然《汴堤柳》），所以唐朝才是真正的受益者，正如薛能《楊柳枝》所寫：“隋家力盡虛栽得，無限春風(fēng)屬圣朝?！碧拼杩Ｋ暹\(yùn)河并開挖新河，形成了四通八達(dá)的水運(yùn)網(wǎng)，并設(shè)置了專門官職管理河道事務(wù)，航運(yùn)穩(wěn)定，運(yùn)輸能力大大提高，對唐王朝的興盛發(fā)揮了極大作用。

李敬方的《汴河直進(jìn)船》，“汴水通淮利最多，生人為害亦相和。東南四十三州地，取盡脂膏是此河”，準(zhǔn)確地反映出大運(yùn)河成為維系唐王朝的生命線的事實(shí)。皮日休的《汴河懷古》，“盡道隋亡為此河，至今千里賴通波。若無水殿龍舟事，共禹論功不較多”，更是看到大運(yùn)河作為水利工程造福后世的價(jià)值。

唐詩中還有大量的篇章，描寫出運(yùn)河及沿岸的繁榮?！盎蠢藚⒉钇?，江帆次第來”（盧綸《送魏廣下第歸揚(yáng)州》）、“山映南徐暮，千帆入古津”（盧綸《泊揚(yáng)子江岸》），繁忙的運(yùn)河帶動(dòng)了沿岸城市的興起和商業(yè)的繁榮?！耙故袠蜻吇?，春風(fēng)寺外船”（杜荀鶴《送友游吳越》）、“魚鹽聚為市，煙火起成村”（白居易《東樓南望八韻》）的杭州，“水門向晚茶商鬧，橋市通宵酒客行”（王建《寄汴州令狐相公》）的汴州，“堤繞門津喧井市，路交村陌混樵漁”（李紳《入揚(yáng)州郭》）、“夜市千燈照碧云，高樓紅袖客紛紛”（王建《夜看揚(yáng)州市》）的揚(yáng)州，“沿溜入閶門，千燈夜市喧”（盧綸《送吉中孚校書歸楚州舊山》）的楚州，無不是商賈如云，繁華熱鬧。王建的《汴路即事》，“千里河煙直，青槐夾岸長。天涯同此路，人語各殊方。草市迎江貨，津橋稅海商?；乜垂蕦m柳，憔悴不成行”，還描寫了運(yùn)河沿岸城市之外專門進(jìn)行商品交易的“草市”。

從詩中我們看到，大運(yùn)河承載商品流通的功能越來越大，吸引了大批操著不同語言的異域客商會(huì)聚到運(yùn)河沿線，運(yùn)河區(qū)域漸趨成為各民族雜居最集中的地區(qū)，促進(jìn)了各民族文化的交流。元稹《法曲》“女為胡婦學(xué)胡妝”“五十年來竟紛泊”描寫出在運(yùn)河流域風(fēng)靡胡妝、胡樂的情況。運(yùn)河及其沿岸城市為各民族間的廣泛接觸和交流提供了一個(gè)適宜的場所，促進(jìn)了民族的融合和發(fā)展，運(yùn)河即成為各民族聯(lián)系的紐帶。

漂泊者的心脈律動(dòng)

唐詩中的大運(yùn)河又是一種主觀的情感世界，不管是對河上漂泊的感慨，渡口送別親友的感傷，還是對開鑿運(yùn)河功過的反思，無不是詩人客觀現(xiàn)實(shí)的情感再現(xiàn)。這些精美的詩行在大運(yùn)河里徜徉，幻化成一幅含韻豐贍的唐人情感畫卷。

唐詩中的大運(yùn)河是漂泊者的心脈律動(dòng)。以洛陽為中心的南北大運(yùn)河，和唐人的生活息息相關(guān)，他們仕宦、漫游經(jīng)常往來其上，唐詩中留有詩人們在運(yùn)河行進(jìn)中的所感所思。滔滔不息的運(yùn)河水，讓詩人慨嘆歲月的轉(zhuǎn)瞬即逝、宦海沉浮的無奈：“浮生卻似冰底水，日夜東流人不知”（杜牧《汴河阻凍》）、“年如流水催何急，道似危途動(dòng)即窮”（羅隱《秋日汴河客舍酬友人》）。從停駐的渡口碼頭起航，引發(fā)詩人的許多客愁：張祜的《題金陵渡》，“潮落夜江斜月里，兩三星火是瓜州”，描寫出詩人徹夜難眠的羈愁旅意;張籍的《楓橋夜泊》，“月落烏啼霜滿天，江楓漁火對愁眠”，展現(xiàn)了詩人身處亂世，孤獨(dú)無依的縷縷清愁。風(fēng)惡浪急的顛簸行船，堅(jiān)定了詩人對理想前途的信心：“丈夫茍未達(dá)，所向須存誠。前路舍舟去，東南仍曉晴?！保显魄涞摹躲旰幼栾L(fēng)》）大運(yùn)河是唐人的生命之河，他們漂泊在這條河流上，為生計(jì)而奔波，為理想而奮斗，失意時(shí)的惆悵和無奈、奮發(fā)和堅(jiān)定都被流動(dòng)的河水引發(fā)出來。

唐詩中的大運(yùn)河是詩人離情別緒的策源地。大運(yùn)河“商旅往返，船乘不絕”，數(shù)不清的離別就天天在渡口碼頭上演，渡口也就成為人們離情別緒的起航點(diǎn)。唐詩中呈現(xiàn)了離別的各種情緒：有悲傷，“愛樹滿西津，津亭墮淚頻”（許渾《京口津亭送張崔二侍御》）;有寂寥，“關(guān)河日暮望空極，楊柳渡頭人獨(dú)歸”（薛逢《送盧緘歸揚(yáng)州》）;有艷羨，“渚畔鱸魚舟上釣，羨君歸老向東吳”（崔顥《維揚(yáng)送友還蘇州》）;有囑托，“別后書頻寄，無辭費(fèi)筆毫”（姚合《送劉詹事赴壽州》）。而且河水的流動(dòng)不居、一去不返使詩人聯(lián)想到了好友的一去不歸：“煬帝陵邊草木深，汴河流水空歸海。古今悠悠人自別，此地繁華終未歇?！保ɡ钌妗蹲碇匈?zèng)崔膺》）寂寞流淌的汴河水，如同離開朋友的落寞之情：”汴水饒曲流，野桑無直柯。但為君子心，嘆息終靡他?！保辖肌躲曛萘魟e韓愈》）曲折蜿蜒的汴河水，就像詩人的顛沛流離，詩人羈旅的感傷和離情難訴的惆悵，溢于言表。

唐詩中的大運(yùn)河是詩人反思?xì)v史、慨嘆興亡的精神空間。唐朝的大運(yùn)河是在隋朝大運(yùn)河疏通整理的基礎(chǔ)上通航的，隋朝短命和隋煬帝花費(fèi)大量人力物力開鑿大運(yùn)河并多次南下巡游有很大關(guān)系，大運(yùn)河這段獨(dú)特的歷史，促使詩人自覺反思大運(yùn)河的開鑿并抒發(fā)了歷史興亡的慨嘆。

白居易的《隋堤柳》詳細(xì)描述了隋煬帝“南幸江都恣佚游”而使“海內(nèi)財(cái)力此時(shí)竭”的罪行，從而導(dǎo)致“蕭墻禍生人事變，晏駕不得歸秦中”的國破身亡的結(jié)局，表達(dá)了對大運(yùn)河開鑿的否定態(tài)度。王泠然的《汴堤柳》，“隋家天子憶揚(yáng)州，厭坐深宮傍海游。穿地鑿山開御路，鳴笳疊鼓泛清流”，以及許渾的《汴河亭》，“廣陵花盛帝東游，先劈昆侖一派流”，都認(rèn)為隋煬帝開鑿大運(yùn)河是為了江南巡游，滿足自己的一己私欲。而且開河、植柳、巡游勞民傷財(cái)：“煬帝開河鬼亦悲，生民不獨(dú)力空疲?！保_鄴《汴河》）”煬帝龍舟向此行，三千宮女采橈輕?！保ㄐ炷躲旰佑[古》）”春風(fēng)舉國裁宮錦，半作障泥半作帆。”（李商隱《隋宮》）制造龍舟、樓船數(shù)萬艘，錦帆彩纜，三千宮女跟隨，窮奢極靡。有的詩作直接指出運(yùn)河的開鑿導(dǎo)致了隋朝的滅亡：“千里長河一旦開，亡隋波浪九天來。錦帆未落干戈起，惆悵龍舟更不回。”（胡曾《詠史詩·汴水》）

面對引發(fā)隋朝滅亡的大運(yùn)河和隋堤柳，詩人在諷刺之余更多的是慨嘆。江為《隋堤柳》：“錦纜龍舟萬里來，醉鄉(xiāng)繁盛忽塵埃?？沼鄡砂肚е炅?，雨葉風(fēng)花作恨媒?！卞\纜龍舟，醉鄉(xiāng)繁盛，化為塵埃，可見歷史滄桑。昔日隋煬帝所樹堤柳，今日卻成為其荒淫誤國的歷史見證，這使后人深感繁華易盡，歷史無情。雖然隋朝覆轍在前，但唐朝并沒從其滅亡的事實(shí)中汲取教訓(xùn)，更使詩人感慨不已：“梁苑隋堤事已空，萬條猶舞舊春風(fēng)。”（韓琮《雜曲歌辭·楊柳枝》）詩人嘆古懷昔，希望人們能在前朝興亡的史實(shí)中，看到本朝現(xiàn)實(shí)痼疾，以起到警世和鑒戒的效果。詩歌中這種對國家前途命運(yùn)的普遍關(guān)注，展現(xiàn)出文人群體內(nèi)心感傷憂慮的精神世界。

文化遺產(chǎn)聞名世界

2014年6月22日，大運(yùn)河被列入世界遺產(chǎn)名錄。作為杭州世界文化遺產(chǎn)之一，京杭大運(yùn)河最美麗最具美譽(yù)的所在無疑位于杭州。話說大運(yùn)河上“第一橋”——拱宸橋，就位于杭州城北。

拱宸橋，它位于杭州老城的最北端，也是一座保存完好的石拱橋，橋面全是石板鋪就的臺(tái)階是座唯一保持完好的古老石拱橋，這也是唯一只準(zhǔn)行走不可通車的橋，它是杭州城中最古老最聞名的十大名橋之一，因?yàn)樗煌ㄜ?，所以它除了交通作用之外，還是附近居民喜歡在夏季晚上納涼的好地方，又風(fēng)涼又安全。

橋下西岸是一長條沿河而建民宅區(qū)，是杭州人就會(huì)知道：拱宸橋河西直街最具有古老特色。

聽前輩人說老底子這里燈紅酒綠是個(gè)典型的娛樂區(qū)…如今也已成為一個(gè)景點(diǎn)，并將它的原貌保留了下來，全是青瓦青磚的老建筑，雖然長年與河相伴，但依然堅(jiān)固耐用。

“魚鹽聚為市，煙火起成村”，一千多年前，白居易就曾描繪出運(yùn)河及沿岸的繁榮。大運(yùn)河詩路以世界文化遺產(chǎn)大運(yùn)河為紐帶，沿途穿越湖州、嘉興、杭州，紹興、從寧波匯入大海，沿岸風(fēng)光旖旎，人文歷史薈萃。

長虹橋是浙北平原地區(qū)軟地基上修建的最大石拱橋。2014年，中國大運(yùn)河申遺成功，長虹橋作為嘉興僅有的兩個(gè)遺產(chǎn)點(diǎn)之一入選其中。

長虹橋西面，就是聞名遐邇的長虹寺，新建的長虹公園內(nèi)滿眼翠綠。古代的遺跡，秀麗的風(fēng)景，讓時(shí)光在王江涇古鎮(zhèn)慢了下來。

江南運(yùn)河幾經(jīng)變遷，西線航道活躍至今，這條西起長興縣小浦鎮(zhèn)，東至上海市松江區(qū)，全場141公里的黃金水運(yùn)線，就是浙江八大水系之一的長湖申航道。

作為浙江省水運(yùn)“十三五”發(fā)展規(guī)劃項(xiàng)目之一，長湖申經(jīng)歷數(shù)次拓寬，已經(jīng)具備了千噸級(jí)船只的通行能力，它將沿線裝備制造、金屬加工、建筑材料等特色產(chǎn)業(yè)串點(diǎn)成線，發(fā)揮浙北水上主動(dòng)脈的重要作用。

塘棲古鎮(zhèn)是京杭大運(yùn)河杭州段的起點(diǎn)，運(yùn)河穿鎮(zhèn)而過，擁有廣濟(jì)橋、乾隆御碑、郭璞井等眾多古跡。作為杭州的水上門戶，千百年來無數(shù)文人墨客流連于此。

廣濟(jì)橋是古運(yùn)河上僅存的一座七孔石拱橋，有著500多年的歷史，也見證著兩岸日新月異的變化。如今的塘棲古鎮(zhèn)為全開放式免費(fèi)景區(qū)，近年來的保護(hù)與開發(fā)讓它重現(xiàn)昔日的熱鬧景象，人們或漫步在沿街商鋪，或休憩于古廊檐下，詩畫江南的獨(dú)特韻味撲面而來。

讓人流連忘返的，不僅是慈湖，還有慈城古縣城，慈城至今仍保留著唐代的街巷格局，是江南唯一保存較為完整的古縣城，有“江南第一古縣城”的美譽(yù)。

唐詩中的大運(yùn)河，向人們展示了一個(gè)客觀具體的大運(yùn)河的存在，也展現(xiàn)了詩人豐富多彩的精神世界，但是兩者并非截然分開，而是始終融合在一起：客觀描寫處處浸染著詩人的主觀情感，而主觀情感則是在客觀描寫的基礎(chǔ)上展現(xiàn)的。以大運(yùn)河為框架，詩人把主觀情感、歷史感和社會(huì)因素投射進(jìn)去，為讀者營造了一個(gè)深邃遼遠(yuǎn)的審美想象的世界。

（本文參考了戴永新所著《唐詩與大運(yùn)河》，深表感謝。）

The Grand Canal Poetry Road： Sailing on a River of Emotions

The Jing-Hang （Beijing-Hangzhou） Grand Canal is undoubtedly a wonder in the history of human civilization. It extends across the vastness of China like a mighty dragon， bringing people all the way from Beijing to Hangzhou. Along the way lie not only historical landmarks， majestic landscapes and fascinating stories， but also lyrical poetry lines that have made them timeless.

It was during the Sui dynasty （581-618） that large chunks of Chinas Grand Canal that we see today were dug. Tongji Canal， a major section running over 1，000 kilometers， became the main inland water route in the Tang dynasty， transporting supplies and businesses from the south to Luoyang and Changan， the two capitals. Consequently， much had been written about the canal， called the Bian Canal at the time， in Tang poetry， from sceneries to everyday life， from politics to history.

Although the Grand Canal was dug in the Sui dynasty， it is the Tang dynasty， its successor， that reaped the benefits， for the Sui rulers were “dead immediately after things done and effort exhausted” （“Willows on the Bian Causeway”）， and “all the glory belongs to Tang” （“Willow Branches”）. Taking the Sui canal as the basis， Tang dynasty further expanded it by constructing new canals and establishing an extensive waterway network. Official posts were even set up to manage canal affairs. With a stable transportation system and much improved transportation capacity， the Tang dynasty prospered.

“Waves upon waves rise in the Huai River， ships upon ships arrive in no time.” A busy Grand Canal greatly helped the development of cities along its banks and businesses boomed. In Hangzhou， “A night market beside a bridge is ablaze with lights， as boats are moored outside a temple in the spring breeze.” In Bianzhou （present-day Kaifeng city）， “Tea merchants haggle round the clock at water gates， rowdy drinkers booze all through the night at bridge markets.” In Yangzhou， “Thousands of lanterns at the night market light the blue sky， throngs of guests wine and dine amid fair ladies in buildings high.” … In every major city along the Grand Canal， it was a scene of hustle and bustle.

The Grand Canal was not only instrumental in boosting commerce， but also in promoting cultural communication and integration. According to Yuan Zhen （779-831）： “Tang ladies are willing to marry men from the Western Regions and be dressed like them.” Indeed， the Grand Canal had become Tangs lifeline， especially at the dynastys latter stages， “Much good of Huai River connected by the Bian Canal， yet it also put common people in harms way. Lands of abundance in the Southeast， via the canal theyve been thoroughly taxed all，” as Li Jingfang （？-？） pointed out in this poem. And to Pi Rixiu （ca. 834-883）， its benefits would last for generations upon generations：

While Suis downfall was triggered by the canal after all， the thousand-mile river is standing ever tall.

If not for their extravaganza and their subjects sweat and blood， the Sui rulers would have rivalled Da Yu， the Tamer of the Flood. （“Meditation on the Past at the Bian Canal”）

Clearly， in Tang poetry， the Grand Canal doubles as a vehicle to convey the poetsemotions and feelings， and serves as a symbol for them to reflect on the past. With Luoyang city as the center， the canal was connected to the life of the Tang people in every way， who often travelled along it for personal and official affairs. The seemingly unstoppable water， the ups and downs of the waves and departures of friends and relatives usually became the perfect triggers to sadness， disconsolation， resignation， determination， and countless other emotions， and to pen great poems.

“Crows caw at the setting moon and frost fills the sky， along the banks maples and fishers lights sad and sleepless I lie，” Zhang Ji （ca. 715-ca. 779） was apparently feeling melancholic when his boat moored along the Grand Canal in Suzhou city. For Du Mu （803-852）， “Life is just like water under the frozen canal， running to the east without anyone noticing，” and little could be changed. Yet， Meng Yunqing （725-781） seemed to become quite determined when confronted with bad weather on the canal： “Destination still not reached， but be confident it will be fine. Leave the boat and forge ahead， in the southeast the sun will shine.”

Apart from personal life， Tang poets are also well known for their reflections on the vicissitudes of history. It is no exception when it comes to the Grand Canal. As Pi Rixiu already pointed out， the collapse of Sui dynasty， Tangs predecessor， was thought to have largely been caused by the building of the canal， and this understanding had a great bearing on Tang poets.

Bai Juyi （772-846） described the crimes of Emperor Yang of Sui （569-618） thus： “Touring Jiangdu [present-day Yangzhou] to the south in a wanton manner，” leading to “empty treasuries all over the country”and eventually the dynastys downfall. Some believed that the Emperor Yang of Sui dug the canal specifically to satisfy his personal desire to enjoy a lavish life in the south， one of whom was Wang Lingran （ca. 692-ca. 725）： “Sui rulers are so fond of Yangzhou， theyd travel to the seaside for sitting in the palace they are bored. Excavating earth， digging through mountains they open new road， with trumpets and drums water begins to flow.” Others were appalled by the extravagance of the Sui dynasty. Li Shangyin （ca. 813-ca. 858） was quite blunt： “The whole nation was making imperial brocade in spring breeze， half into saddle fenders and half into sails.” Unfortunately， Tang rulers ultimately threw caution to the wind and succumbed to the same fate as Sui.

Listed by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site on June 22， 2014， today， the Grand Canal is one of the worlds best-known cultural and historic attractions. To most people， there seems no disputing the fact that the most charming part of the Grand Canal lies in Hangzhou. Indeed， Gongchen Bridge， regarded as the “First Bridge” of the Grand Canal， sits right in the north of the city.

Literally meaning “bowing to the emperor at his arrival bridge”， it was initially built in 1631， the fourth year during the reign of Chongzhen， the last emperor of the Ming dynasty （1368-1644）， and renovated several times during the Qing era. The highest and longest stone arch bridge in Hangzhou， Gongchen Bridge is perhaps best known as the place where Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong disembarked on their inspection tours of the city. Now， it is not only a popular place for local residents to hide from intense heat during mid-summer nights， but also one of the best-preserved historic attractions in Hangzhou. To the west of the bridge， a historical and cultural district has been set aside， with restored streets， buildings and shops， where visitors can immerse themselves in history.

Tangqi Ancient Town， the starting point of the Grand Canals Hangzhou section， is another good choice to get a glimpse of the past. Blessed with a rich heritage， including the 500-year-old Guangji Bridge， the only 7-arch stone bridge on the Grand Canal， the town has been open to public free of charge for quite some time. The idea of sustainable development， i.e. developing tourism without compromising conservation， has brought the bustling scenes of olden days back.

Yet another unique bridge along the canal lies to the northeast in Jiaxing city. Changhong Bridge， literally “l(fā)ong rainbow bridge”， is thought to be the largest stone arch bridge built on soft soil in northern Zhejiang. When the Grand Canal was selected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014， Changhong Bridge is one of the only two relics along the Jiaxing section that were included as major heritage items. To the west of the bridge is the renowned Changhong Temple， an ancient Buddhist temple sitting right behind the lush green Changhong Park. When boats and barges flow by， time seems to have come to a standstill.

While sections of the Grand Canal in Jiangnan （south of the Yangtze River） have undergone multiple changes， the western route is still active today. Known as the Chang-Hu-Shen Waterway， it runs 141 kilometers from Xiao Pu township in Changxing county of Huzhou city， to Songjiang district in Shanghai， and is one of eight major water systems in Zhejiang. To date， the Chang-Hu-Shen Waterway has been expanded quite a number of times and is now capable of carrying thousand-tonnage ships， which has played an important part in connecting featured industries along the route.

The Grand Canal is an indisputable engineering feat， but for Tang poets， it is also a metaphorical channel through which to express their innermost thoughts and feelings as well as their perspectives and opinions on history， politics， society， creating via poems a world of aesthetic imagination for readers.