日本一瞥

文、圖要力石

此次日本行，完全按照女兒的旅游計劃進行。幾天內(nèi)完成十多個重要景點的密集參訪，還包括吃遍日式著名小吃，并非易事。這樣“跑馬觀花”的結(jié)果是，清晨還在箱根湯本溫泉賓館的榻榻米上，黃昏就到了京都衹園的花見小路；上午還在淺草寺的廟會上，下午就到了嵐山竹林《源氏物語》傳說的發(fā)源地；白天還在清水寺清水道的抹茶小店，晚上就入住了新宿柏悅酒店對面的希爾頓……當然，這正是旅游的奇妙之處。

日本從公元7世紀從中國引進佛教，現(xiàn)在已有神社、寺廟多達11000個，知名景點差不多都是佛教圣地。比如我去清水寺的路上，就路過好幾個小廟。當然，廟多并不代表日本人認真對待宗教，他們不相信輪回觀念，不相信惡有惡報。

原以為淺草寺建在綠樹環(huán)繞的叢山中，沒想到它地處繁華鬧市一隅；原以為淺草寺是上香拜佛的場所，沒想到它最熱鬧的地方反而是寺廟前的小吃一條街。日本的旅游紀念品精美絕倫。穿和服的小美人，被稱作“箸”的筷子，各式小宮燈，以抹茶為主的各式小吃，都令人叫絕。在如織的游人中，不時會聽到熟悉的廣東話和北京話。夫人和女兒在一家冰淇淋小店前停下腳步。各種口味和色澤的冰淇淋無比誘人。店家不忘提醒大家：只準在此吃完再走！正說著，有一對操著北京腔的戀人被店家從人群中“押解”回來，小伙子笑著對我們說：“真沒想到，剛走不遠就給逮回來了！”

我身旁是一家年糕小店，看著各式精美食品，忍不住想嘗一嘗。我花了450日元買了一份綠豆丸。店家是一位六七十歲的日本老太太，她指著一旁的中文紙板讓我看：“本店食品只許在此享用?！蔽蚁?，淺草寺的“城管”夠厲害，店家如此服從衛(wèi)生規(guī)定，想必罰款少不了。

總要從淺草寺帶回點什么吧？值錢的沒有經(jīng)過“批準”也不敢買，我轉(zhuǎn)悠半天，看到一種耳勺小巧實用。店家是一位身材發(fā)福的中年男人，看到我采購他的商品，極為熱情，那樣子像是我定下他上萬美元的貨。他耐心地取出兩只小紙袋，把耳勺放進去包好，點頭彎腰地示謝。兩個大男人之間，一樁世界上最小的生意成交！

在連續(xù)踏訪明治神宮、淺草寺、嵐山天龍寺、伏見稻荷大社等佛教圣地后，我建議領(lǐng)隊女兒是否可參觀一下其他著名自然景點和人文景點？女兒說除了這些神廟，其他的還真不好找。我說，至少安排一個和日本文化有關(guān)的吧。

于是，一行人來到了京都建于17世紀初的德川家康將軍府二條城，這是像北京地安門恭王府一樣的庭園。二條城內(nèi)功能設(shè)施齊全，前面處理公務(wù)，接待來客，后面是后花園，松柏蔽日，假山清泉，櫻梅相映，一派幽靜氣象。御殿內(nèi)的墻上那3000幅壁畫，再現(xiàn)了410年前日本桃山時代的生活場景。特別是能發(fā)出黃鶯聲的黃梨地板和為防止敵人騎兵突襲而鋪滿碎石的城門外廣場，都讓游人恍若當年。進入這座恢弘建筑的御殿前，所有游客被要求脫下鞋子，赤腳走在黃梨地板上。踩在上面，即使腳步再輕，也會聽到腳下“啾啾”聲，宛如樹上黃鶯的鳴叫。我光著腳走著，感覺身體在飛翔，時空穿越到了400年前，將軍府的主人或侍衛(wèi)因為突發(fā)戰(zhàn)事而在上面匆匆而行。這個曾統(tǒng)治日本民族兩個半世紀的德川家族，當年是何等叱咤風云、不可一世。

走出這座于1994年被聯(lián)合國列為世界遺產(chǎn)的將軍府時，正迎來一批身穿藍白水兵校服的日本中學生。二條城的對面就是聞名世界的銀座。古代和現(xiàn)代遙相呼應(yīng)，其交集處就是那條設(shè)置有紅綠燈的十字路口。路口不寬，盡管橫向沒有車輛，包括成群中學生在內(nèi)的所有人，都在等待綠燈。這使我想起去清水寺的路上，不斷經(jīng)過只有兩三米寬的小路口，如果是紅燈，是沒有人跨過去的。

黃昏的花見小路上，路兩旁的招牌燈籠一盞盞亮起來，幽靜、閑適而迷離。小店門口都張貼著各式歌舞演出海報。各方旅客懷著同樣神秘的期待蒞臨于此，希望一睹日本文化隱秘的一隅。我同樣好奇地掃視著每一個門店，很想從燈紅酒綠中看到人活動的影子。據(jù)說所有的小店只接待預(yù)約好的本地客人，而不會招待不期而來的游人。日本是高度發(fā)達的市場經(jīng)濟，為什么還會有錢不賺呢？看來，花見小路大有文章。

天光已暗，我靠近路邊小河岸的樹旁休息，從枝葉間看到對面那家掛著燈籠的酒館，外面燈火通明，里面人影綽綽。又據(jù)說，在這條街上，每逢夜幕降臨會有來此演出的日本藝妓出沒。我開始和其他所有游人一樣，留意著每一位從身旁走過的濃妝艷抹的和服女子。用本尼迪克特的描寫，藝妓們“衣著漂亮，舉止得體，曾經(jīng)受過精當?shù)挠柧殹?。正想著，一位身材高挑，身著粉色和服，手持精致小包的女子迎面走來，臉龐的白色妝扮格外醒目。我悄聲說：“注意，有人來了！”女兒瞄了一眼，等這位女子一走過，對我說：“這個不太像，更像是游客?！币彩?，日本各旅游景點都開設(shè)和服出租業(yè)務(wù)，每天3000至5000日元不等。后來，又陸續(xù)看到幾位匆匆走過的和服年輕女子。哪個是藝妓，哪個是游客，實難分辨。

舊金山也有一條著名的花街，那里陽光明媚，綠樹環(huán)繞，鮮花競放。而日本的花見小路，怎么會是另一種氛圍呢？“日本的古怪文化”及其國民性，也像入夜的花見小路一樣，“亂花漸入游人眼”，讓人看不明猜不透。也許，對于需要用“但是”的轉(zhuǎn)折詞來描寫，“餓著肚子也必須用牙簽剔牙”，經(jīng)常會在一系列邏輯悖論中表現(xiàn)出極端的日本人，只能讓世人永遠“存疑”了。

花見小路上的酒吧Bars at Hanami

This trip to Japan has been conducted in full accordance with daughter's travel plan.It has not been easy to complete intensive visits to more than a dozen important sights in a few days,including trying famous Japanese snacks.The result of this "cursory visits" was that we were on the tatami mat at Hakone Yumoto Hot Spring Hotel early morning while arriving at the Hanami path of Kyoto Gion Park in the evening,at the temple fair of Sensoji Temple in the morning while reaching the origin of theGenji legendof bamboo forest of Arashiyama,and remaining at the matcha shop at the path of Kiyomizu Temple during the day while sleeping at Hilton at night opposite the Park Hyatt Shinjuku hotel...Of course,this is exactly the wonder of touring.

Japan introduced Buddhism from China in the 7thcentury AD,featuring now as many as 11,000 shrines and temples.Most of the famous attractions are Buddhist shrines.For example,I passed several small temples on the way to the Sensoji Temple.Of course,high number of temples does not mean that the Japanese take religion seriously.They do not believe in reincarnation and evil results of evildoing.

I originally thought that Sensoji Temple should have been built in the mountains surrounded by green trees.However,it was much out of my expectation that it was located in a bustling city.The temple was originally believed as a place for worshipping Buddha,but its most lively place was the street of delicious food in front of the temple.Japan's tourist souvenirs are exquisite.The little beauty wearing the kimono,the chopsticks named as Zhu,various small lanterns and many kinds of snacks mostly represented by matcha.In the crowds of tourists,Cantonese and Beijing dialects,which are most familiar,can be heard from time to time.The wife and daughter stopped in front of a small ice cream shop as various tastes and colors were extremely attractive.However,the store owner has not forgotten to remind everyone: finish eating here before leaving! Meanwhile,a couple speaking Beijing dialect was "escorted" from the crowd by the store owner.And the young man laughed and said to us:"I didn't expect to be caught so quickly!"

Next to me was a rice cake shop,looking at all kinds of exquisite food,I could not help but want to have a taste.I paid 450 yen for a green bean.The store owner was an old Japanese lady in her 60s or 70s.She pointed at the Chinese paperboard on the side to show me: "The food in our restaurant can only be enjoyed here." I thought the "city management" in Sensoji Temple was very powerful and the store was so obedient to the hygiene regulations,surely much fine must have been submitted.

I should have brought back some souvenir from Senso-ji Temple.Those expensive could not be afforded without "approval".I spent a long time there and found an ear spoon that was small and practical.The store owner was a middle-aged man with an overweighed body.He was very enthusiastic to see me purchasing his products as if I had set him up for tens of thousands of dollars of products.He patiently took out two small paper bags,put the ear spoon in it and wrapped it,nodding his head to show his appreciation.The smallest deal in the world has occurred between the two big men!

After consecutive visits to the shrines of Meiji Jingu,Senso-ji,Tenryu-ji Temple of Arashiyama,Fushimi Inari Shrine and other Buddhist holy places,I suggested to the team head my daughter if we could visit other famous natural attractions and cultural attractions.But she said that apart from these temples,it was really hard to find other places.I said that we should visit at least one related to Japanese culture.

As a result,a group of people arrived in Nijo-jo Castle of the General Tokugawa Ieyasu's House built in Kyoto in the early 17thcentury.This is a garden looks like the Prince Kung's Mansion near Beijing's Di'an Gate Palace.The Nijo-jo Castle has complete functional facilities,the public affairs and guests' reception were handled at front.Behind them are the rear gardens,full of pine and cypress trees,rockery springs and cherry blossoms with atmosphere of tranquility.The 3,000 murals on the wall of the Gotemba have recreated the scenes of the life of the Japanese Momoyama era 410 years ago.In particular,the yellow pear floor that could send out voices of the yellow birds and the square outside the city gate that was covered with gravel to prevent enemy cavalry raids all made visitors across the world.Before entering this imposing palace,all tourists were asked to take off their shoes and walk barefoot on the yellow pear floor.Stepping on it,even if the pace is much lighter,you will always hear the"click" sound of the feet,like the oriole' tweet.It felt as if my body was flying when I walked bearfoot,traveling through time and space to 400 years ago,the mansion's owner or guards were hurrying over it because of a sudden battle.The Tokugawa family,who had ruled the Japanese nation for two and a half centuries,was such an all-powerful and insufferably arrogant.

When stepping out of this palace,which was listed as a World Heritage Site by the United Nations in 1994,we were greeted by a group of Japanese junior high school students wearing blue and white sailor uniforms.Opposite Nijo-jo Castle w Ginza,enjoying a worldwide reputation.Ancient and modern echoes to each other.And the intersection was the crossroads with traffic lights,which were not wide,though no vehicle in the landscape horizontally,everyone including the middle school students are waiting for the green light.This reminded me of the way to the Kiyomizu Temple,we constantly passed through small intersection that is only two or three meters wide.If it is a red light,nobody crosses it.

淺草寺穿和服的年輕人，許多是外國游客Youth in kimono by Senso-ji Temple,most are foreign tourists

淺草寺一景Scenery of Senso-ji Temple

JR惠比壽站JR Ebisu Station

The sign lanterns on both sides of the road were lit up along the Hanami path,quiet,leisurely and blurred.There were various posters of song and dance performance posted at the entrance of the shop.Tourists from all countries came here with the alike mysterious expectations,hoping to see a glimpse of hidden Japanese culture.I also glimpsed every store with the same curiosity,with the hope of witnessing the shadow of people's activities from the debauchery.It was said that all the small shops only accepted well-arranged local guests,and would not entertain visitors unexpected.Japan is a highly developed market economy.Why did these stores refuse us? It seemed that there was a lot of mysteries on the path.

It was dark.I was resting against the tree on the bank of the roadside.Between the branches and leaves,I saw the opposite tavern with lanterns.The outside was bright,but inside was full of people.It is also said that there would be Japanese geishas coming to perform shows every night on this street.Just like everyone else,I started to pay attention to every woman in the kimono who had walked by.Using Benedict's description,the geishas were "pretty and well-behaved and they had been welltrained." Upon thinking,a tall woman dressed in a pink kimono holding a fine pouch came to us.I whispered: "Look,someone is coming!" My daughter glanced over and said to me after waiting for the woman to walk through: "this is probably not,it's more like a tourist." Alas,kimono rental services were offered in various tourist attractions in Japan,ranging from 3,000 to 5,000 yen per day.After that,we saw several young kimono girls one after another who had passed in a hurry.Which is a geisha,which is a tourist,it is indeed most difficult to distinguish.

San Francisco also has a famous flower street,surrounded by trees and promising flowers with much sunlight.Whereas how could Japan's Hanami path be in another atmosphere? "Japan's quirky culture" (Words of Benedict) and its nationality are just like the Hanami path into the night,puzzling people’s eyes and minds.Perhaps for the description of "but" transitions,"toothpicks must be used even one is still hungry",the nation of Japanese often revealing extreme in a series of logical paradoxes makes people worldwide remain "questionable" all the time.

由布達佩斯美術(shù)館、北京畫院主辦的“經(jīng)典·勞特累克作品展”于9月30日至11月4日在北京畫院美術(shù)館舉辦。圖為勞特累克創(chuàng)作的彩色石版畫《梅·貝爾福特》The "Classic Lautrec Works Exhibition" hosted by the Budapest Art Museum and the Beijing Fine Art Academy was held at the art gallery of Beijing Fine Art Academy from September 30th to November 4th.Photo: May Belfort,a colored lithograph by Lautrec.

2018年，在“維也納現(xiàn)代主義”百周年祭的時刻，維也納的8家美術(shù)館、博物館以“美麗與深淵”（Beauty and the Abyss）為主題，推出貫穿全年的12個展覽，回顧維也納的“黃金時代”。圖為維也納藝術(shù)史博物館中庭克里姆特創(chuàng)作的全景壁畫In 2018,some 8 art galleries and museums featuring the theme "Beauty and the Abyss",during the centenary of "Vienna Modernism",have launched 12 exhibitions throughout the year to review the "Golden Age" of Vienna.