與通海古城的對話

文、圖杜俊平

我來到水韻山秀、人文薈萃、有著“禮樂名邦”之美譽(yù)的云南省通海古城，短短二日，讓我從冠冕南州的秀山文廟，了解到通海古城至今已有630多年歷史；讓我從保存完好的24條古街古巷，穿梭到明清的時(shí)光隧道；讓我從設(shè)計(jì)獨(dú)特的民宅建筑，品味到200多所“一顆印”式明清古民居的歷史滄桑；讓我從承載夢想的茶馬古道上，尋找到昔日馬幫行走的痕跡；讓我從勤勞淳厚的街坊鄰居，領(lǐng)悟到他們對未來美好生活的希望；讓我從傳統(tǒng)的冠笄之禮，接受到古老中華文化的洗禮。這就是位于云南省玉溪市的通海古城，一個(gè)古老、遙遠(yuǎn)、神秘，而又富含新氣象的通海古城。

淵源的禮樂名邦

通海古城是一座有著悠久歷史的文化古城，自古以來，社會(huì)民風(fēng)淳樸，文化底蘊(yùn)深厚，八方商賈云集。當(dāng)你站在秀山文廟外，你會(huì)感覺到文廟紅墻上那“禮樂名邦”四字格外醒目，其釋意：“禮，管理好國家，達(dá)到社會(huì)和諧，生活安定；樂，移風(fēng)易俗，消除邪念，助長高尚情操；名邦，意為人才備出的地方，僅明清兩代通?？既∨e人、進(jìn)士等共278人，僅清朝時(shí)期，在通海廟學(xué)中曾經(jīng)培養(yǎng)出朱嶟（禮部尚書），公孫翰林的董玘、董健，著名書法家闞禎兆等”。

在游覽古民居中，我還發(fā)現(xiàn)了一個(gè)很有意義的多元民間文化現(xiàn)象，由于通海古城是蒙古族、彝族、哈尼族等少數(shù)民族居住地，每家每戶廳堂中，都選掛了富有屋主個(gè)性、表現(xiàn)內(nèi)容不一、民族特色鮮明的壁畫、對聯(lián)和詩賦；庭院內(nèi)造型各異的水榭、長廊和壁畫，充分彰顯了通海少數(shù)民族的中華文化底蘊(yùn)。時(shí)至今日，引以為贊的是古城百姓依然保持吟詩作畫的傳統(tǒng)，時(shí)不時(shí)地在秀山文廟里，或自家院中，“把酒當(dāng)歌對對子，揮毫潑墨弄詩畫，雖言世外無桃源，安享儒雅慢生活”。

獨(dú)特的民宅建筑

從明洪武十五年（1382年）土城建成，整座古城依山（秀山）面湖（杞麓湖）而建，坐南朝北，城池中規(guī)中矩，東西南北街道交會(huì)中心處——聚奎閣，從空中俯瞰，通海古城猶如一顆印，這聚奎閣就是印把，而古民居圍繞聚奎閣四射而建。正如清代詩人錢南園所賦“孤城臨水背依山，憶在江南煙雨間”。

舉目而望，青石板路兩旁的古宅、商鋪、寺院，皆保留明清風(fēng)格，民居建筑形式多樣，院落組合，古宅門頭古香古色，都遵循了滇中“一顆印”四合院格局，經(jīng)過數(shù)百年的歷史演變，依然保留其古雅韻味，尤其是古民居中的亭臺水榭長廊、庭院枋柱花樁、盆景木雕壁畫、古琴石池碑林，在能工巧匠的手下得以完美結(jié)合。正是這一座座民宅，在風(fēng)吹雨打中屹立著，在裊裊炊煙中生存著，在傳承文化中傾訴著，向人們述說著一個(gè)又一個(gè)古老的故事，成為古城百姓生活中最引以自豪的浪漫。

古老的古街古巷

通海古城街巷，圍繞聚奎閣，由東西南北大街向外延伸，體現(xiàn)了中國傳統(tǒng)的“九宮格局”模式。全城共有傳統(tǒng)街巷24條，其中南北走向街巷12條，東西走向街巷12條，至今仍保留原有的格局和街巷名稱，它就像通海古城的經(jīng)脈，靜靜地連接著你我他，演繹著一個(gè)又一個(gè)美麗的傳說。

當(dāng)你順街而行，穿巷而過，只見街巷井然有序，民舍保存完好，百姓文明和諧，在這安逸從容的日子里，走在青石板鋪就的街巷上，無論你遇到什么人、走進(jìn)哪一家，打探什么故事，他們都溫和篤定、彬彬有禮的熱情地招呼，進(jìn)屋讓座，端茶上煙，嘮嗑不止。似乎這里的每一處宅院、每一塊石板、每一口古井都在默默地述說著通海傳統(tǒng)文化的悠悠歲月。

寂靜的茶馬古道

通海曾是茶馬古道上的一個(gè)重要驛站，我打聽到永濟(jì)橋是當(dāng)年茶馬古道的必經(jīng)之路，順著斑駁陸離的街巷，來到了永濟(jì)橋，這里已無昔日的車水馬龍，如今是那樣寂靜安詳，可謂“只聞知了叫，不見馬兒鳴”。雖然，茶馬古道上的那座有名的永濟(jì)橋下的河流已干涸，永濟(jì)橋旁曾商賈云集的馬店已改作它用，但是，永濟(jì)橋仍堅(jiān)守著這條承載過無數(shù)趕馬人夢想的黃金古道，走在被昔日馬蹄磨得锃亮的石塊上，你還會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)當(dāng)年馬幫走過留下深淺不一的馬蹄印，記錄著古老歲月的痕跡。

據(jù)通?？h志記載，唐朝初期，唐王朝的統(tǒng)治力量從“安南（越南河內(nèi)）”經(jīng)過“通海”，到達(dá)“拓東城”（今昆明）和“大理”，從而緊緊地控制了云南，鞏固了云南的統(tǒng)一。通海地處滇中，距離昆明125公里，距玉溪40多公里，東南亞國際大通道——泛亞鐵路從通海境內(nèi)通過，是一條物產(chǎn)富饒、人文薈萃的黃金古道，更是南下交趾（今越南），北入滇中，再入巴蜀，西與滇西、緬甸、印度相連的交通樞紐之地。 但是，1910年滇越鐵路開通之后，通海古城逐漸失去了交通優(yōu)勢，致使通海古城慢慢地沉寂在深閨中……

淳樸的街坊鄰居

走在青石板鋪就的街巷中，似乎觸摸到明清時(shí)光，飽經(jīng)風(fēng)霜的傣族老太、休閑娛樂的蒙族阿爸、哈尼婦女及揮毫作畫的彝族青年，這一切構(gòu)成了仁義孝悌、和諧安詳、天人合一的通海古城生活畫卷。

在一家民宿客棧里，我與客棧的老人家和她兒媳聊起來，她家是鎮(zhèn)上第一批改建民宿客棧的，院內(nèi)建設(shè)古香古色，雙人標(biāo)間舒適潔凈、裊裊梵香入靜入心。老人家已九十高壽，耳不聾、眼不花，拉著我指著大門口的客棧牌子說，這是政府發(fā)的“優(yōu)秀客?！迸谱印？粗先思夷樕纤查g洋溢出的滿足、自豪和幸福感，我也由衷地替老人家老有所依、老有所養(yǎng)、老有所樂而感到欣慰，這就是中華傳統(tǒng)——忠孝美德，我祝福老人家福如東海，壽比南山。

傳統(tǒng)的冠笄之禮

成人禮也稱冠笄之禮，儒家將冠禮定位于“禮儀之始”，具有極高的文化地位，15歲至18歲的少年參加成人禮。在冠笄之禮中啟發(fā)青年人愛國、進(jìn)步、理性、奮進(jìn)等應(yīng)有的精神品格，旨在以莊重的儀式開啟人生的新篇章，承擔(dān)責(zé)任，履行義務(wù)，宣告自己已成人。在這個(gè)特別溫馨的成人禮日子里，父母給孩子加戴冠笄，并親手給孩子梳頭，男孩家長給兒子戴冠冕，女孩家長給女兒行加笄，寓意著孩子，不再嬌慣任性，告別幼稚，走向成熟，擔(dān)當(dāng)起社會(huì)責(zé)任，也標(biāo)志著孩子們的人生由此揚(yáng)帆啟航。

通海古城一直沿續(xù)著冠笄之禮這種活動(dòng)，每年不定期地舉行，讓父母和孩子同時(shí)接受中華民族傳統(tǒng)文化的熏陶浸潤，為父母與孩子架起心靈橋梁，讓孩子行孝道、知禮儀、懂感恩，讓父母對孩子多理解、多溝通，從而融洽相處。雖然，我沒有直接參與冠笄之禮活動(dòng)，但是，在通海秀山小學(xué)的畫廊里，我還是感受到了冠笄之禮的傳統(tǒng)魅力所在。

雖然，這只是通海古城傳統(tǒng)文化的一隅，但是，你仔細(xì)品味會(huì)感覺到，千年時(shí)光也許就在不經(jīng)意中從秀山和文廟間緩緩流過，不僅融匯在杞麓湖的漣漪里，而且也融進(jìn)了我們每個(gè)人的心中……

我佇立在文廟孔圣人與眾弟子雕像前，感覺到天地間是那樣的寂靜，一種從未有過的悠閑慢生活場景映入眼簾，一朵白云懸吊在文廟上空慢慢地飄浮，虔誠的香客在慢慢地上香、跪拜和祈禱，而我也在慢慢地品味這從未有過的古城對話。無論怎么說，通海古城曾是茶馬古道上的一個(gè)重要驛站，其保存完整的空間格局、街巷肌理和建筑風(fēng)貌，不僅透著昔日的繁榮昌盛，而且更是傳承和弘揚(yáng)我中華之禮樂名邦的地方。

晨曦中的通海古城Ancient Tonghai City amidst Morning Light

In just short period of two days when visiting the ancient city of Tonghai in Yunnan Province,which has the reputation of "Spiritual and Virtue State"with beautiful landscape and profound cultural blends,I came to understand that the ancient city of Tonghai has a long history of over 630 years after paying my tribute in Confucius Temple in Xiu Moutain,letting me shuttle from the well-preserved 24 ancient streets and alleys to the time tunnel of the Ming and Qing Dynasties,tasting the historical vicissitudes of more than 200 "one-print" Ming and Qing dynasties from the design of unique residential buildings,finding the traces of the old caravan walking from the ancient tea-horse road that carries the dream,understanding the hopes for a better life in the future from the industrious neighbors and accepting the baptism of ancient Chinese culture from the traditional crown ceremony.This is the ancient city of Tonghai,a place of ancientness,distance,mystery,and full of vitality.

Origin of Spiritual and Virtue State

As a city of culture,the ancient city of Tonghai features a long history with simple folk customs and profound cultural heritage since ancient times,attracting merchants from far.When you stand outside the Confucian Temple in Xiu Mountain,you could clearly feel the four Chinese characters LI YUE MING BANG on the red wall of the Temple,meaning"LI,manage the country,achieve social harmony,live a stable life; YUE,change the traditional customs,eliminate evil thoughts and promote noble sentiments; MING BANG means places rich in talents,as there were 278 people out of two generations claiming the first-degree scholars,imperial scholars and the Hanlin academicians of the Ming and Qing Dynasties,cultivating ZHU Zun (Minister of Rites) based upon the study of temple knowledge in Tonghai,DONG Qi and DONG Jian of GONGSUN Hanlin,renowned calligrapher KAN Zhenzhao and etc."

In the ancient dwellings,I also found a very meaningful multicultural folk phenomenon.Since the ancient city of Tonghai is the residence of Mongolian,Yi,Hani and other ethnic minorities,each of the halls of every household has chosen murals,couplets and poems presenting the main personality,different performance and distinct national characteristics; the diverse styles of resting areas by water,corridors and murals in the courtyard fully demonstrate the Chinese cultural heritage of the ethnic minorities in Tonghai.To date,it is highly commended that the residents of the ancient city still maintain the tradition of chanting poetry and painting,as they "consider the wine as a pair of songs,make a splash of ink and poetry and enjoy the gentle and slow life" from time to time in the Confucian Temple in Xiu Mountain,or in their own yards.

Unique Residential Building

古鎮(zhèn)第一家民宿客棧First B&B inn in the ancient city

茶馬古道Tea-Horse Road

文廟紅墻上的“禮樂名邦”"LI YUE MING BANG" on the red wall of the Temple of Literature

Accomplished since the 15thyear of Ming Hongwu,the whole ancient city was built by the mountain (Xiu Mt.) while facing the lake (Qilu Lake),sitting south to the north.The city,which was under regular construction,witnesses the intersection of all directions---Jukui Pavilion.Overlooking from high location,the ancient city looks like a seal,the pavilion the seal handle while the ancient dwellings built around it.Just as the poet QIAN Nanyuan of the Qing Dynasty once chanted,"the lonely city sits by the mountains and waters,and remembered in the rainy places to the southern China".

Looking around,the ancient houses,shops and monasteries on both sides of blue-slate road are preserved in the style of Ming and Qing Dynasties.The diverse-formed residential buildings,mixed-structured and intricate courtyards,and the ancient houses all follow the "one seal" courtyard pattern of Yunnan Province,which,after centuries of historical evolution,still retains its quaint charm，especially the pavilions and waterfront promenades,the courtyard pillars,the bonsai woodcarving murals,and the stone ponds with ancient musical instrument of the well-preserved dwellings are perfectly combined under the hands of skilled craftsmen.It is this houses that stand in the wind and rain,surviving in the smoke,talking amid inheriting the culture,informing people one story after another,and becoming the most proud romance of people's life of the ancient city.

Ancient Streets

Surrounding the Jukui Pavilion,the streets and lanes of the ancient city Tonghai extend from the east,west,south and north,reflecting the traditional Chinese "Nine Palaces" pattern.There are 24 traditional streets and alleys in the city,including 12 north-south streets and 12 east-west streets respectively.The original pattern and street names are still preserved,as they are like the meridian of Tonghai ancient city,connecting all people while performing a beautiful legend one after another.

When you go down the street and walk through the lanes,you can see that the streets are well organized,the houses are also under functional preservation,and the people are civilized and harmonious.Residents are all gentle and calm with courtesy and enthusiasm to greet and invite visitors for tea and chat with passion when people walk on the bluestone streets in this comfortable and calm day upon encountering anyone,entering any households or exploring any stories.It seems that every house,slate or ancient well in this place is quietly telling the long years of traditional culture of Tonghai.

Silent Tea-horse Road

Tonghai was once an important station on the ancient teahorse road.I heard that Yongji Bridge was the only way to the ancient tea-horse road.Following the mottled streets leading to the Bridge,I found that there was no such thing as a bustling town.It's so quiet and serene,just like: "Tranquility with Silence."Although the river under the famous Yongji Bridge on the ancient tea-horse road has dried up,the horse shops gathered by the merchants along the Yongji Bridge has been used for other purposes,however,the bridge still holds this ancient golden road shouldering dreams of so many horse-riders.Walking on the stones that have been smoothed and polished by the horseshoes in the past,you will also find the shaded horseshoe prints of the caravans passing through in the past,still recording the traces of ancient times.

According to the records of Tonghai County,the ruling power of the Tang Dynasty passed through the "Tonghai" to "Tuodong City" (now Kunming) and "Dali" from "Annan (Hanoi of Vietnam)"in the early Tang Dynasty so as to tightly control Yunnan and consolidate the unification of the area.Tonghai is located in the central area of Yunnan,125 kilometers from Kunming and more than 40 kilometers away from Yuxi.The Pan-Asia Railway,the great Southeast Asian international passage,passes through the territory of Tonghai.It is not only a golden ancient road with rich products and culture,but also the transportation hub connecting Jiaozhi (present-day Vietnam) to the south,Yunnan and Sichuan to the north,and western Yunnan,Myanmar and India to the west.However,after the opening of the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway in 1910,the ancient city of Tonghai gradually lost its transportation advantage,leading the ancient city into silence...

Pure and Honest Neighorhood

Walking in the streets of blue slate,it seems to touch the times of Ming and Qing Dynasties,the weather-stricken elderly lady of Dai nationality,the daddy of Meng nationality enjoying his leisure,women of Hani nationality and the youngster of Yi nationality involved in painting constitute a life picture of Tonghai with filial piety,harmony and peace with nature.

In a B&B inn,I chatted with an old lady and her daughter-inlaw.Her home was the first batch of rebuilt B&B in the town decorated with many antiques,the double standard room was comfortable and clean with tranquility.

The 90-year-old lady had clear ears and eyes,talking to me pointing at the inn sign of the gate that this is the "Excellent Inn"brand issued by the government.Admiring the satisfaction,pride and happiness on her face,I sincerely felt gratified for the lady's sense of security,worthiness and the feeling of happiness,which is the tradition of China - loyalty and filial virtue,I wish the old lady a fulfilling longevity.

Traditional Crown Ceremony

星夜中的聚奎閣Jukui Pavilion at Night

The adult ceremony is also called the crown ceremony.Confucianism positions this ceremony as the beginning of etiquette with a very high cultural status.Teenagers between the ages of 15 and 18 participate in adult ceremonies,which inspire the young people's patriotic,progressive,rational,and industrial spirits.It is committed to opening a new chapter in life with solemn rituals,helping them to realize the shouldering of responsibility,fulfilling obligations and declaration of adulthood.In this particularly warm adult day,parents give their children a crown and personally comb their hair.The boy's parents crown their son,and the girl's parents comb the daughter's hair,meaning the child is no longer spoiled while bidding farewell to childishness and embracing maturity,taking up social responsibility,and also marking the starting of their adult life.

The crown ceremony in Tonghai ancient city,held irregularly every year,allows parents and their children to simultaneously absorb the traditional culture of the Chinese nation,build a spiritual bridge let children perform filial piety,be grateful,and make the parents acknowledge more about their children with much communication and harmony.Although I did not participate in the ceremony directly,I still felt its traditional charm at the gallery of Tonghai Xiushan Primary School.

Although it is just a glimpse of the traditional culture of the ancient city of Tonghai,you may feel that the millennium may be inadvertently flowing between Xiu Mountain and the Confucius Temple after thorough taste,not only in the hustle and bustle of Qilu Lake,but also melting into the hearts of each of us...

Standing in front of the statue of the Confucius and his disciples in the Confucius Temple,I felt that there was such silence between heaven and earth.A leisurely and slow life scene never seen before came into my mind.A white cloud hanging slowly over the temple,the devout pilgrims were scenting slowly,bowing and praying,and I was slowly savoring the ever dialogue with the ancient city.In any case,Tonghai ancient city used to be an important station on the ancient tea-horse road.Its well-preserved complete spatial pattern,streets and architectural style not only revealed the prosperity of the past,also indicated its importance as inheriting and promoting the rituals of China.