Curry’s Journey Around the World咖喱的環(huán)球之旅

Curry is not a single spice， nor is it related to the namesake curry tree （though the leaves are used in many dishes in India）.

咖喱并非一種單一的香料，也與同名的咖喱樹無關(guān)（盡管在印度很多菜肴都用到了咖喱樹的葉子）。

The catch-all umbrella term refers to a “spiced meat， fish or vegetable stew， either freshly prepared as a powder or spice paste or purchased as a ready-made mixture，” writes Colleen Sen in her book “Curry： A Global History.”

這個包羅萬象的術(shù)語指的是一種“加了香料的燉肉、燉魚或燉蔬菜，可以是新鮮制作的粉末或糊狀調(diào)料，也可以是購買來的預(yù)制混合物?！笨屏铡ど谒闹鳌犊о喝蚴贰分袑懙馈?/p>

Curry， which is thought to have originated as early as 2500 BCE in what is modern-day Pakistan， has since evolved into a truly global food， having traveled the world through colonization and immigration， indentured labor， trade and entrepreneurship.

咖喱被認為早在公元前2500年就起源于今天的巴基斯坦。自那以后，咖喱通過殖民和移民、契約勞工、貿(mào)易和創(chuàng)業(yè)走遍了世界，逐漸發(fā)展成為一種名副其實的世界美食。

“I don’t think there’s a place in the world that doesn’t have some kind of curry，” says Sen.

“我認為世界上沒有一處地方?jīng)]有咖喱。”森說。

If you’re a curry lover， follow your cravings around the world by heading to these destinations：

如果你是一個咖喱愛好者，那就跟隨你的渴望環(huán)游世界，去往以下目的地吧：

India

印度

It’s impossible to sum up India’s various “curries” in a few lines. But if there’s one dish that can be found on menus across the country， it’d be murgh makhani—better known around the world as butter chicken.

想用幾句話來概括印度種類繁多的“咖喱”是不可能的。不過，如果有一種菜肴在印度各地菜單上都能找到的話，那就是“馬卡尼雞”——更廣為人知的名字是黃油雞。

This famous dish—created by chef and restaurateur Kundan Lal Gujral in New Delhi in 1948—stars yogurt-marinated chicken baked in a tandoor oven， then smothered in a rich creamy sauce of tomatoes， onions and spices.

這道著名的菜肴由新德里主廚和餐廳老板昆丹·拉爾·古杰拉爾在1948年所創(chuàng)，主材是雞肉，用酸奶腌制后在筒狀泥爐中烤制，然后澆上厚厚一層由西紅柿、洋蔥和香料制成的濃郁奶油醬汁。

Vindaloo is another famous export and a must-try when in its hometown of Goa. Derived from the Portuguese phrase “vinha d’alhos” （meaning meat marinated in garlic and wine vinegar）， this hot and spicy dish is traditionally made with pork， vinegar， tomato， onion， red chillies， garlic and a complicated spice mix.

辛辣咖喱肉是另一道著名的出口菜肴，也是在它的家鄉(xiāng)果阿必嘗的一道菜。這道熱辣辛香的菜肴源自葡萄牙語vinha d’alhos（意思是在大蒜和葡萄酒醋中腌制的肉），傳統(tǒng)烹飪方法用到了豬肉、醋、西紅柿、洋蔥、紅辣椒、大蒜和復(fù)雜的混合香辛料。

Japan

日本

Typically mild and thick， Japanese curry， kare raisu， is eaten across the country and even considered a de facto national dish， alongside ramen.

“咖喱飯”通?？诟腥岷投譂庥?，在日本各地都能吃到，甚至跟拉面一樣，被奉為事實上的國民菜肴。

“In a survey， the Japanese named curry rice as one of their three favorite home-cooked dishes， while Japanese schoolchildren voted it the best meal served in the lunch program，” says Sen.

“在一項調(diào)查中，日本人將咖喱飯定為他們最喜愛的三道家常菜之一，而日本小學(xué)生也將其選為學(xué)校午餐計劃中的最佳菜式?！鄙f。

Curry has a long history in the country， thought to have been introduced by British officers and merchants in the 1800s.

咖喱在日本有著很長的歷史，被認為是在19世紀由英國軍官和商人引入的。

Usually cooked with pre-made spice mixes or curry roux， Japan’s thick and mellow variation usually features chunks of stewed beef， onions and carrots over a bed of rice.

日式咖喱飯通常用預(yù)制的混合香料或糊狀咖喱烹制而成，味道濃郁醇厚，主料通常為大塊的燉牛肉、洋蔥和胡蘿卜，下面鋪一層米飯。

Another common incarnation of curry in Japan is the ever-satisfying katsu karē， a hearty dish of crispy fried pork cutlets （called tonkatsu） and a thick， brown gravy over rice.

在日本，咖喱的另一種常見做法是人見人愛的“咖喱炸豬排”。這是一道豐盛的菜肴，將酥脆的炸豬排（日語稱為tonkatsu）搭配米飯，再澆上濃郁的棕色肉汁。

Thailand

泰國

During the fourth century， Indian traders and Buddhist missionaries are thought to have disseminated spices and herbs like tamarind and garlic， shallots， ginger and lemongrass across Southeast Asia.

公元4世紀，據(jù)稱印度的商人和佛教傳教士將羅望子、大蒜、大蔥和檸檬草等香料和香草傳播到東南亞。

Later， in the 16th century， the Portuguese introduced chilli peppers—now a staple ingredient in Thai food.

后來，在16世紀，葡萄牙人引進了辣椒——現(xiàn)在它是泰國菜的一種主要食材。

Over time， Thai people incorporated these ingredients into their own dishes， which gave rise to the country’s famously aromatic， spicy curries.

久而久之，泰國人將這些食材融入他們自己的菜肴，形成了以芳香和辛辣著稱的泰式咖喱。

Often made with coconut milk， Thai curry dishes vary across the country. Generally speaking， you’ll see more drier varieties up north and wetter variations in central Thailand and down south， where coconut milk is more common.

泰式咖喱在制作中通常會加入椰奶，具體做法在泰國各地不盡相同。一般來說，你會發(fā)現(xiàn)北部的咖喱品種較干，而中部和南部因為椰奶更為常見，咖喱也更濕潤。

Thai curries （or “gaeng” in Thai） come in a stoplight of colors—red， yellow and green—and strive to strike a balance between sweet， sour， salty and spicy.

泰式咖喱（泰語稱為gaeng）跟交通燈一樣有紅黃綠三種顏色，也力求在甜、酸、咸、辣四種味道之間取得平衡。

Setting them apart， Thai curries typically contain fermented shrimp paste， as well as lemongrass and palm sugar.

與眾不同的是，泰式咖喱通常會用到發(fā)酵的蝦醬，還有檸檬草和棕櫚糖。

Sri Lanka

斯里蘭卡

As a major link along ancient spice trade routes and a former British colony， Sri Lanka has a long relationship with curry.

作為幾條古代香料貿(mào)易之路的主要樞紐和曾經(jīng)的英國殖民地，斯里蘭卡與咖喱的關(guān)系源遠流長。

“In the 19th century， the British established tea， cinnamon， rubber， sugar， coffee and indigo plantations on the island and brought in thousands of indentured laborers from Tamil Nadu [in southern India] to work on them，” explains Sen.

“19世紀，英國人在島上建立了茶葉、肉桂、橡膠、糖、咖啡和靛藍的種植園，并從（位于南印度的）泰米爾納德邦帶來了成千上萬的契約傭工在種植園里勞作?！鄙忉尩?。

In addition， the island is also home to millions of Sinhalese people， an ethnic group who emigrated from northern India thousands of years ago.

此外，島上還住著數(shù)百萬的僧伽羅人，這是一個幾千年前從印度北部移民過來的民族。

Thanks to influences from both the Sinhalese and southern Indian communities， curry comes in a rainbow of colors， from bright yellow to creamy white， bright red and rich brown.

受到僧伽羅人和印度南部社區(qū)的影響，當?shù)乜о兄屎绨愕念伾?，從明黃色到乳白色、鮮紅色和深棕色。

Though flavors vary widely， curries often make use of ingredients like coconut milk， tamarind， Maldivian fish， green chili， mustard seed， coriander and cumin.

盡管咖喱的口味千差萬別，但使用的原料通常都會包括椰奶、羅望子、馬爾代夫魚、綠辣椒、芥菜籽、芫荽和蒔蘿籽等。

Malaysia

馬來西亞

Due to its position along the Strait of Malacca， an important maritime trade route between east and west， Malaysia’s culinary traditions have been influenced by centuries of cultural exchange.

因為地處連接?xùn)|西方的重要海上貿(mào)易之路——馬六甲海峽沿岸，馬來西亞的飲食傳統(tǒng)受到幾個世紀以來文化交流的影響。

From the late 1700s， Britain had a presence in several parts of present-day Malaysia and Singapore.

從18世紀晚期起，就有英國人開始陸續(xù)來到現(xiàn)今馬來西亞和新加坡的幾個地區(qū)。

As with its many other trading ports and colonies， the British hired laborers from India to work on rubber and palm plantations.

跟在其他許多貿(mào)易港口和殖民地一樣，英國人從印度雇用勞工，在橡膠和棕櫚種植園里勞作。

With the immigrants came curry. Tangy fish head curry， Tamil-influenced chicken varuval， warming dalcha lentil curry … Malaysia’s curries are as delicious as they are diverse.

跟隨移民到來的是咖喱。香味濃烈的咖喱魚頭、泰米爾風情的干煸咖喱雞塊、熱氣騰騰的小扁豆咖喱……馬來西亞的咖喱美味可口，品種多樣。

Nyonya cuisine—dishes created by the Straits-Chinese community—also plays an important role in Malaysia’s culinary melting pot.

由海峽華人社區(qū)創(chuàng)造的料理“娘惹菜”在馬來西亞這個美食大熔爐里也有著舉足輕重的地位。

One of the best known Nyonya curries is kari ayam （bone-in chicken curry） which features a mix of Chinese techniques and Malaysian ingredients， including shrimp paste， coconut milk， star anise， cinnamon， fish sauce， kaffir lime， turmeric， ginger and more.

最知名的一道娘惹菜是kari ayam（帶骨雞肉咖喱），其特點是融合了中式的烹飪技法和馬來西亞的食材，包括蝦醬、椰奶、八角、肉桂、魚露、泰國青檸、姜黃、生姜等等。

Sen also points to curry chicken kapitan， which sees pieces of chicken sauteed in curry paste then simmered in coconut milk， tangy tamarind water and aromatic cinnamon.

森還提到了甲必丹咖喱雞。這道菜要先將雞肉塊在咖喱醬中翻炒，然后加入椰奶、酸香濃郁的羅望子汁和香氣四溢的肉桂燉煮。

Another popular dish that’s enjoyed across Malaysia and Indonesia， particularly during holidays and festivals， is rendang.

另一道在馬來西亞和印度尼西亞都很受歡迎的菜是“仁當”，節(jié)假日的時候人氣尤高。

Well known around the world， this relatively dry curry dish is made with beef or chicken braised in a sauce of coconut milk， lemongrass， ginger， and cinnamon for an ultra-tender texture.

這道享譽全球的咖喱料理相對較干，是用牛肉或雞肉在椰奶、檸檬草、生姜和肉桂制成的醬中燜煮而成，口感格外柔嫩。

The UK

英國

Owing to its long relationship with India， the UK has been putting its own spin on curry since the 18th century.

因為與印度的淵源，自18世紀起，英國就一直對咖喱進行本土化的改良。

Curry-like dishes and other Indian fare began appearing on coffee house menus after members of the British colonial administration who lived in India returned home and craved a taste of their life abroad.

曾在印度生活過的英國殖民政府官員，在回國后渴望重溫海外的生活體驗，于是咖喱類的菜肴及其他印度飲食開始出現(xiàn)在咖啡館的菜單上。

Around the same time， inventive merchants bottled up pre-mixed curry powders and exported them across the empire.

大約在同一時間，善于創(chuàng)新的商人將預(yù)先混合的咖喱粉裝進瓶子里，出口到帝國各地。

“Curry is hugely popular in the UK，” says Sen. “The Brits really love it—they invented tikka masala there， because India has been a part of the British psyche for so long.”

“咖喱在英國非常受歡迎?！鄙f，“英國人真的很喜歡咖喱。他們在英國發(fā)明了瑪莎拉，因為多年以來印度一直在英國人心中占有一隅之地?！?/p>

Today， curry remains an unofficial national dish—it’s so popular， the country celebrates National Curry Week every October.

今天，咖喱仍然是英國一道非官方的國菜——它太受歡迎了，以至于每年10月，英國都會慶?！叭珖о堋?。