李中鋒 Li Zhongfeng
“白日依山盡,黃河入海流。欲窮千里目,更上一層樓。”唐代詩人王之渙的經(jīng)典詩作《登鸛雀樓》,在中國幾乎是家喻戶曉、人人皆知。但是,“黃河入海流”的現(xiàn)實(shí)場景和歷史事件,卻遠(yuǎn)非詩詞中表述的那么美。
“Under the s e tting sun, themountains extend endlessly, and theYellow River meets the sea. To explorea thousand miles of scenery more,ascend yet another floor.” These linesare from the timeless Tang Dynastypoem “On the Stork Tower” by WangZhihuan. While the verses are cherishedthroughout China, the reality andhistory of the Yellow River flowinginto the sea is quite different from thepicturesque beauty depicted in thepoem.
歷史上的黃河曾“三年兩決口,百年一改道”。黃河河道北至天津,南至淮河,在廣袤的中國華北地區(qū)長期大幅度擺動(dòng)、游蕩,既塑造了華北大平原,也擾亂了生活在這一地區(qū)的人們。古代典籍中就多見對黃河流域水災(zāi)、旱災(zāi)、蝗災(zāi)及由此造成的百姓饑荒、災(zāi)民遷移及社會(huì)動(dòng)亂等的相關(guān)記載。
Throughout history, the YellowRiver would “burst its banks every twoyears and change its course once everycentury.” These shifts have led the riverto meander from as far north as Tianjinto as far south as the Huai River, carvingits path through the expansive NorthChina region. While this geologicalphenomenon has shaped the NorthernChina Plain, it has also disruptedthe lives of its inhabitants. Historicalaccounts are filled with stories of floods,droughts, locust plagues in the YellowRiver basin and the subsequent famines,mass migrations, and social upheavals.
有資料記載,在1855年以后的100多年間,黃河三角洲發(fā)生的決口漫溢達(dá)87次,其中大的河口改道就有九次,平均十年左右入海路徑就會(huì)變化。頻繁的河道更改,將當(dāng)?shù)厝顺Uf的“三十年河?xùn)|,三十年河西”這一諺語改為“十年河?xùn)|,十年河西”?!按蠊聧u,人煙少,年年洪水?dāng)f著跑。”這個(gè)順口溜更是人們對于昔日黃河入海的形容。
According to historical records, in the periodspanning over 100 years from 1855, the Yellow RiverDelta witnessed 87 instances of flooding and ninesignificant alterations in the river’s mouth, leading toa shift in its path approximately every ten years. Thesefrequent changes transformed a local saying from“thirty years east of the river, thirty years west of theriver” to “ten years east of the river, ten years west ofthe river.” Another popular rhyme, “Gudao Island issparsely inhabited, and every year the floods force usto move,” vividly illustrates the historical patterns ofthe Yellow River’s flow into the sea.
20世紀(jì)60年代初,在山東省廣饒縣的東營村和墾利縣的勝利村打出了新油井,這些油井在1965年被命名為“勝利油田”。隨著這些油田的發(fā)展和黃河三角洲的開發(fā)建設(shè),東營市在1982 年底獲準(zhǔn)成為省轄地級市。
In the early 1960s in Shandong, new oil wellswere discovered in Dongying Village, GuangraoCounty, and Shengli Village, Kenli County. These oilwells were collectively named “Shengli Oil Field” in1965. As these oil fields developed and the overalltransformation of the Yellow River Delta progressed,Dongying gained prefecture-level city status by theend of 1982.
城市建設(shè)、人民生活、油田生產(chǎn)、黃河三角洲生態(tài)保護(hù)等,這些都需要一個(gè)穩(wěn)定的環(huán)境。黃河入海的流徑頻繁擺動(dòng),洪汛、凌汛時(shí)常帶來的災(zāi)難損失,成為勝利油田與東營市面臨的一個(gè)最嚴(yán)峻的問題?!皷|營拓荒千宗事,穩(wěn)定河口第一樁?!狈€(wěn)定河口,既是防洪防凌保石油生產(chǎn)的需要,也是東營市人民生活穩(wěn)定的保障。
Urban development, people’s livelihoods, oilfieldproduction, and ecological preservation in the YellowRiver Delta all depend on a stable environment. Thefrequent shifts in the Yellow River’s course and thedisasters brought by its floods and ice jams have becomeone of the most pressing challenges for Shengli Oil Fieldand Dongying City. “Of Dongying’s various pioneeringtasks, stabilizing the river mouth is of paramountimportance.” This stability is not only crucial forpreventing floods and ice jams in oil production but alsoessential for ensuring the residents’ overall quality of life.
1976—1986年,黃河入海主要以清水溝為主,并且行水了十年。按當(dāng)?shù)亓餍械捻樋诹锛爱?dāng)時(shí)的水流情況,也到了需要改道的時(shí)間。
From 1976 to 1986, the primary outlet for theYellow River into the sea was Qingshuigou, and itflowed steadily for a decade. However, it became clearthat a change in course was necessary, consideringlocal knowledge and the prevailing water conditionsat the time.
然而,改道的損失和代價(jià)是非常巨大的。如果北向改道,勝利油田投資18億元建成的一座年產(chǎn)500萬噸原油的孤東大油田和原孤島油田都將面臨被沖毀的危險(xiǎn)。1988年5月,政府下達(dá)了黃河改道北股的決定。當(dāng)時(shí)的油田生產(chǎn)辦公室工作人員按捺不住心中的憤慨:“改道北股,剛剛建成的年產(chǎn)500 萬噸的孤東油田就要被沖走。你們破吧!我就躺在這里,叫黃河水沖走!”
However, the challenges and expenses associatedwith altering the river’s course were substantial.Redirecting the river northward posed a risk ofdamaging the newly constructed Guodong Oil Field,which had an annual production capacity of fivemillion tons of crude oil, as well as the original GudaoOil Field. In May 1988, the government decided toredirect the northern branch of the Yellow River, adecision met with frustration among the oilfield staff.One person exclaimed, “Redirecting the northernbranch means that the newly built Gudong Oil Fieldwith an annual production capacity of five million tonsis about to be washed away. While you go ahead, I’ll justlie here and let the Yellow River water carry me away!”
面對這些情況,國家相關(guān)部門與東營市有關(guān)方面積極尋找解決問題的新辦法。專家們廣泛閱讀國內(nèi)外河口治理方面的書籍,多次到黃河三角洲考察,傾聽基層治理黃河專家們的意見。通過研究,他們認(rèn)為,穩(wěn)定黃河口的關(guān)鍵,在于充分利用海動(dòng)力輸沙,讓黃河從海動(dòng)力最強(qiáng)的地方入海,并輔以其他工程措施,進(jìn)一步強(qiáng)化海動(dòng)力,黃河口就可以長期穩(wěn)定。
Faced wi t h thes e challenge s ,the national authorities and relevantentities in Dongying City activelysought solutions. Experts extensivelystudied Chinese and internationalliterature on estuary management,conducted numerous visits to the Yellow River Deltaand consulted local experts in the Yellow Rivermanagement. Their research led them to concludethat stabilizing the mouth of the Yellow Riverdepended on fully harnessing the hydraulic powerof the sediment transport to the sea. By allowing theriver to enter the sea from the area with the strongesthydraulic power and implementing additionalengineering measures to enhance this power, longtermstability at the river mouth could be achieved.
經(jīng)國家有關(guān)部門慎重研商和協(xié)調(diào),東營市于1988年開始進(jìn)行黃河口治理試驗(yàn)工程。1988年,黃河共有八次洪峰,且一次比一次大,但是在入??谕晃恢玫乃粎s一次比一次低—實(shí)驗(yàn)取得了出人意外的成功。
After careful planning and coordination,Dongying City launched experimental program tomanage the Yellow River mouth in 1988. In that year,the river experienced eight flood peaks, each largerthan the previous one, yet the water level at the sameposition at its mouth consistently decreased. Thisexperiment achieved remarkable success.
20世紀(jì)90年代初,在勝利油田清水溝流路入海段北側(cè)淺海發(fā)現(xiàn)了儲(chǔ)量巨大的新灘油田,但該地處于潮間帶,開發(fā)艱難。工程技術(shù)人員于是萌生了把黃河引向東北方向、利用黃河泥沙填海造陸的設(shè)想。1996年,造陸采油工程實(shí)施,開挖引河,將黃河入??陂T向東北偏轉(zhuǎn),這既縮短了河道,改善了防洪形勢,又為造陸采油創(chuàng)造了條件。如今,一塊數(shù)十平方千米的陸地露出海面,一口口油井也隨之豎立在這塊新淤的土地上,勝利油田由此成為中國第二大油田。
In the early 1990s, a new offshore oilfieldwith vast reserves, known as Xintan Oil Field, wasdiscovered in the shallow sea north of Qingshuigouin Shengli Oil Field. However, its location was in anintertidal zone, presenting significant developmentchallenges. Engineers conceived the idea of divertingthe Yellow River northeastward and using thesediment from the river to reclaim land. In 1996,this project was put into action. A diversion channelwas excavated to redirect the river mouth to thenortheast. This not only shortened the river’s route,improved flood control, but also created favorableconditions for land reclamation and oil extraction.Today, a vast expanse of land, covering tens ofsquare kilometers, has emerged from the sea. Thenewly drilled oil wells on this land have transformedShengli Oil Field into China’s second-largest oilfield.
經(jīng)過多年建設(shè),黃河三角洲已成為國家級自然保護(hù)區(qū),其總面積達(dá)15.3萬公頃,是中國沿海最大的新生濕地自然植被區(qū),也是中國暖溫帶最廣闊、最完整、最年輕的濕地生態(tài)系統(tǒng)。目前有約1 145種植物在這里生長進(jìn)化,40多種魚類在此產(chǎn)卵繁殖。春季,濃綠的蘆葦密密叢生;秋季,連綿的堿蓬草火紅綻放,萬畝素潔的蘆花隨風(fēng)飄蕩,形成了“蘆花飛雪”的壯觀景象。一道道綠色的屏障為每年超過600 萬只鳥類在此遷徙、越冬提供了棲息之地。豐富的物種、繽紛的色彩、不同時(shí)節(jié)的美景,以及陸海交融的壯觀,使這片土地成為很多人心向神往的地方。
After years of development, the Yellow RiverDelta has become a national natural reserve, spanningan area of 153,000 hectares. It now stands as China’slargest coastal wetland natural vegetation area andrepresents the broadest, most intact, and youngestwetland ecosystem in China’s temperate zone.Currently, it is home to around 1,145 plant speciesand hosts over 40 thriving fish species. In spring, thelandscape is adorned with lush reeds, while autumnbrings forth expansive fields of seepweed, which turna vibrant fiery red, and acres of white reed flowers,creating a spectacular “snowfall” scene. These greenbarriers serve as a vital habitat for over six millionmigratory and wintering birds that visit this landannually. The diversity of species, vibrant seasonalcolors, the beautiful scenary of different seasons, andthe convergence of land and sea, have made this areaa source of inspiration for many.
經(jīng)過幾代人的不懈努力,古老的黃河再次煥發(fā)出青春的光彩。“黃河之水天上來,奔流到海不復(fù)回?!边@條中國的“母親河”流淌了5 464公里,潤澤了山東大地,最后在東營黃河口長驅(qū)入海,奔向蔚藍(lán),煥發(fā)出新的活力,奏響了人與自然和諧共生的新樂章。
Through the unwavering efforts of multiplegenerations, the ancient Yellow River has once againreclaimed its youthful vitality. As the famous poemgoes, “The waters of the Yellow River come from thesky, rushing to the sea without return.” This Chinese“mother river” travels a 5,464-kilometer journey,nourishing the land of Shandong before finallymerging into the sea at Dongying. It flows into theazure expanse, infusing it with renewed vigor andwriting a new chapter in the harmonious coexistenceof humanity and nature.
供圖/ 黃高潮 趙文昌 龔慶春 山東畫報(bào)圖片庫 山東黃河河務(wù)局