王安石與杭州的故事

司馬一民

王安石雖然沒(méi)有在杭州為官，但是他到過(guò)杭州，并且寫過(guò)幾首詩(shī)，留下了在杭州的印跡，也算是與杭州有緣了。

王安石（1021—1086），字介甫，號(hào)半山，臨川（今江西撫州臨川）人。王安石出道很早，慶歷二年（1042），21歲進(jìn)士及第，做過(guò)揚(yáng)州簽判、鄞縣知縣、舒州通判等，政績(jī)顯著。熙寧二年（1069），任參知政事，第二年拜相，主持變法。

我們這里要說(shuō)的是北宋皇佑二年（1050），王安石30歲時(shí)在浙江鄞縣知縣任滿，回家鄉(xiāng)臨川前路過(guò)杭州。也許有友人相邀，他在杭州小住，當(dāng)然要看看西湖的山山水水、走訪名勝古跡，于是留下了詩(shī)篇。我們從他的詩(shī)作里知道，他在杭州到過(guò)這些地方——

王安石在杭州到過(guò)的第一個(gè)地方是望湖樓。有《杭州望湖樓回馬上作呈玉汝樂(lè)道》紀(jì)事：

水光山氣碧浮浮，落日將歸又少留。從此只應(yīng)長(zhǎng)入夢(mèng)，夢(mèng)中還與故人游。

讀這首詩(shī)，知道王安石與與韓縝（字玉汝，曾出使西夏）、楊畋（號(hào)樂(lè)道，將門之后）是故交，很可能與他們相約到杭州，一同游覽西湖，登望湖樓飽覽湖光山色，在望湖樓下三位揮手分別。這首詩(shī)是王安石與韓縝、楊畋分別后在馬上所作，才分手就牽掛，可見(jiàn)朋友情誼濃。

望湖樓曾經(jīng)是杭州西湖著名景點(diǎn)，原建筑早已不存。現(xiàn)在我們看到的望湖樓是20世紀(jì)80年代重建的。

望湖樓原名看經(jīng)樓，在當(dāng)時(shí)的昭慶寺（現(xiàn)在杭州青少年活動(dòng)中心）前，始建于北宋乾德五年（967），吳越王錢弘俶所建，到宋時(shí)改名為望湖樓。為什么取名看經(jīng)樓？可能與昭慶寺相關(guān)。昭慶寺是錢弘俶的父親錢元瓘所建，當(dāng)時(shí)稱菩提院。宋太平興國(guó)七年，敕賜“大昭慶寺”。昭慶寺曾經(jīng)是一個(gè)規(guī)模宏大的寺院，寺院外圍建筑一直延伸到西湖邊。因此，在昭慶寺前西湖邊建看經(jīng)樓（望湖樓）似乎是順理成章的事情了。

游客從西湖碼頭登岸后，沿著石板路穿過(guò)石牌坊和山門，便到了天王殿前的萬(wàn)善橋。萬(wàn)善橋的西面另有一座涵勝橋，西湖水由南往北、再由西往東，流經(jīng)涵勝橋和萬(wàn)善橋后，注入青蓮池。1926年西湖邊拓建馬路，拆掉了昭慶寺的前殿天王殿，萬(wàn)善橋也不復(fù)存在了，還填掉了橋下的青蓮池，殿前的古樟至今仍存數(shù)株。

登望湖樓，近觀碧波如鏡，遠(yuǎn)眺群山環(huán)繞，湖中畫舟點(diǎn)點(diǎn)，湖中三島如三顆明珠閃爍于湖水之上，有時(shí)朦朦朧朧，有時(shí)卻清晰如畫，是煮茗把酒欣賞西湖萬(wàn)種風(fēng)情的絕佳處，引來(lái)歷代許多文人墨客的題詠。王安石到杭州，少不得要登望湖樓，縱覽湖光山色之后自然要做詩(shī)。在王安石登望湖樓作詩(shī)20多年之后，熙寧五年（1072），時(shí)任杭州通判蘇軾也登上了望湖樓，留下了《六月二十七日望湖樓醉書》：

黑云翻墨未遮山，白雨跳珠亂入船。卷地風(fēng)來(lái)忽吹散，望湖樓下水如天。

這是后話，按下不提。

王安石在杭州到過(guò)的第二個(gè)地方是圣果寺，有《游杭州圣果寺》紀(jì)事：

登高見(jiàn)山水，身在水中央。下視樓臺(tái)處，空多樹(shù)木蒼。浮云連海氣，落日動(dòng)湖光。偶坐吹橫笛，殘聲入富陽(yáng)。

此詩(shī)描述了勝果寺的景致。

勝果寺原在杭州鳳凰山苕帚灣內(nèi)山塢。初建于隋代，后因唐代番僧文喜在寺里靜坐得道而更名為“勝果”，又名“圣果”。宋慶歷（1041）初，因仁宗賜“崇圣塔”額匾而稱“崇圣寺”。南宋時(shí)勝果寺為宮廷內(nèi)苑供奉之所，后淹沒(méi)。明洪武年間（1368），勝果寺重建，此后有諸多文人雅士為寺題額。勝果寺佛殿后石壁上，有五代吳越國(guó)時(shí)鐫刻的高達(dá)6米的彌陀、觀音、勢(shì)至三圣石像及十八羅漢，人稱“三佛石”，舊時(shí)石佛上建有閣，閣后平地上有佛祖亭。明嘉靖年間（1522）因倭寇入侵被焚，后由僧正因重建，天啟年間（1621）又毀。清初寺院逐漸恢復(fù)，清乾隆三十年（1767）高宗弘歷南巡到杭州，為勝果寺題“江湖廣覽”“澄觀堂”兩匾額。

勝果寺藏于深山幽谷之中，明張岱《西湖夢(mèng)尋》稱：“松徑盤紆，澗淙潺，羅剎石在其前鳳凰山列其后，江景之勝無(wú)過(guò)此?！?/p>

勝果寺整體建筑毀于清咸豐時(shí)（1851）。

勝果寺至今留下的歷史遺跡不少，是鳳凰山古跡最集中的地方。摩崖上1平方米大小的“鳳山”兩字系南宋王大通所書，還有宋高宗手書“忠實(shí)”兩字。山崖上的石刻十八羅漢像，雖經(jīng)千年已殘損，但多數(shù)仍能辨認(rèn)，鳳凰池半在洞內(nèi)半在洞外，洞寒泉冽。此外還有通明洞、放光巖以及當(dāng)年殿堂的地基等。

王安石在杭州到過(guò)的第三個(gè)地方是飛來(lái)峰，有《登飛來(lái)峰》紀(jì)事：

飛來(lái)山上千尋塔，聞?wù)f雞鳴見(jiàn)日升。不畏浮云遮望眼，自緣身在最高層。

這首詩(shī)雖然是寫游覽登高，卻是借景抒懷。有人說(shuō)，此詩(shī)透露出王安石渴望被朝廷重用，實(shí)現(xiàn)革新變法富國(guó)強(qiáng)兵的愿望和抱負(fù)。這是把日后王安石拜相實(shí)行變法與這首詩(shī)聯(lián)系起來(lái)的理解，也有一定的道理。不過(guò)，對(duì)于30歲的王安石來(lái)說(shuō)，恐怕當(dāng)時(shí)還不一定有日后拜相變法的清晰仕途目標(biāo)，但是“達(dá)則兼濟(jì)天下”的理想肯定是有的。

飛來(lái)峰為杭州佛教名山，又名靈鷲峰，高168米，山體由石灰?guī)r構(gòu)成。飛來(lái)峰由于長(zhǎng)期受地下水溶蝕作用，形成了許多奇幻多變的洞壑，如龍泓洞、玉乳洞、射旭洞、呼猿洞等。據(jù)說(shuō)飛來(lái)峰過(guò)去有72洞，但因年代久遠(yuǎn)，多數(shù)已湮沒(méi)。僅存的幾個(gè)洞，大都集中在飛來(lái)峰東南一側(cè)。

飛來(lái)峰面朝靈隱寺的山坡上，遍布五代以來(lái)的佛教石窟造像，有三百多尊。石刻有西方三圣像（五代）、盧舍那佛會(huì)浮雕（北宋）、布袋和尚（南宋）、金剛手菩薩、多聞天王、男相觀音（均為元代）。其中，最為著名的是喜笑顏開(kāi)、袒胸露腹的彌勒佛，是飛來(lái)峰石窟中最大的造像，為宋代造像藝術(shù)的代表作。

王安石在杭州的游覽以一首《杭州呈勝之》結(jié)束：

游觀須知此地佳，紛紛人物敵京華。林巒臘雪千家水，城郭春風(fēng)二月花。彩舫笙蕭吹落日，畫樓燈燭映殘霞。如君援筆宜摹寫，寄與塵埃北客夸。

這首詩(shī)除了對(duì)杭城景物風(fēng)俗的贊嘆之外，我們還可以讀出三個(gè)信息：一個(gè)是王安石拿杭州與京城汴梁（今開(kāi)封）比，覺(jué)得不相上下，這是他對(duì)杭州的總體印象;再一個(gè)是王安石到杭州的時(shí)間是“二月”;還有一個(gè)是假設(shè)，如果您（勝之）的妙筆來(lái)描寫杭州，京城的人看了一定會(huì)“驚艷”。這首詩(shī)是寫給勝之的，勝之是誰(shuí)？王益柔（1015—1086）字勝之，洛陽(yáng)人，慶歷四年（1044）以殿中丞召試，授集賢校理，曾在揚(yáng)州、毫州、江寧、應(yīng)天府為官。王益柔好學(xué)，博通群書，一日能寫數(shù)千言的策論。司馬光曾對(duì)人說(shuō)，自我著《資治通鑒》，人們多請(qǐng)求讀看，但未看完一張紙，便已打呵欠想瞌睡。能夠把它全部讀完的人，只有一個(gè)王勝之。慶歷年間，王安石與王益柔先后被朝廷錄用，可能其間有交往。

（作者系杭州市政協(xié)智庫(kù)專家、杭州文史專家）

The Poet Wang Anshi and the City of Hangzhou

By? Sima Yimin

Wang Anshi （1021-1086）， alternatively known by his courtesy name Jiefu and style name Banshan， was an important politician， writer， calligrapher and thinker of the Northern Song dynasty （960-1126）. He is most famous for his reforms carried out under Emperor Shenzong who ruled from 1067 to 1085.

Born in Linchuan （present-day Fuzhou， Jiangxi） Wang is also known as Linchuan Xiansheng （or Master Linchuan）. He obtained his jinshi degree， the highest and final degree in the imperial examinations， in 1042. Throughout his career， he served as secretary in the office of the assistant military commissioner in Yangzhou， Jiangsu， the district magistrate of Yinxian county （present-day Ningbo， Zhejiang）， and controller-general of Shuzhou， among various positions. For his hard work and rich experience in local administration， Wang Anshi was appointed vice?chancellor in 1069 and became the chancellor in 1070.

Although Wang never worked as an official in Hangzhou， he had been to the city and composed a few poems about it.

In 1050， when Wang was 30， he finished his term in Yinxian county and was on his way back to Linchuan， his hometown. Perhaps invited by friends， he stayed in Hangzhou for some time during his trip， and traveled to a number of places there， including the West Lake.

The first place Wang visited， judging by his poems， was the Wanghu Lou， or the Lake Viewing Tower， where he wrote：

Amid fresh air and green mountains the water shines，

We stay for a longer while as the sun sets.

Into a long dream now we should dive，

And still travel with old friends.

Poem Written on Horseback for Yuru and Ledao after Returning from Lake Viewing Towe was apparently penned for Yuru （courtesy name of Han Zhen， 1019-1097） and Ledao （courtesy name of Yang Tian， 1007-1062）， both officials， who may have invited Wang in the first place.

The Wanghu Lou was once a famous scenic spot around the West Lake. The original building has long since disappeared. Today’s Wanghu Lou was rebuilt in the 1980s.

First erected in 967 in front of the Zhaoqing Temple （which is now the Hangzhou Youth and Children’s Center）， it was originally named the Kanjing Lou （or the Sutra Reading Tower）， more than likely because of the Zhaoqing Temple. The temple was once a large complex， with its outer buildings extending all the way to the West Lake.

Once up inside the Wanghu Lou， one is instantly drawn to the clear， mirror-like lake surface nearby. The mountains stand far away， circling the West Lake. Twinkling in the middle of the lake are star-like boats and the three pearl-shaped small islands， sometimes hazy， sometimes bright. It is only natural that Wanghu Lou has always been one of the best spots for scholars and poets to drink tea and appreciate the beauty of the West Lake， and Wang Anshi was no exception. Indeed， some two decades later， in the year 1072， another prominent figure， Su Shi， who was Hangzhou’s controller-general at the time， also composed a poem here.

The second place that Wang Anshi visited was the Shengguo Temple， for which he left the poem Visiting the Shenghuo Temple in Hangzhou.

Climbing up I see mountains and rivers，

As if in the middle of the lake I stay.

Looking down from the terraces，

I see vast space ahead and trees grey.

Floating clouds mix with sea fogs，

As the setting sun shakes the surface of the lake.

I sit down blowing into a flute with my friends，

To Fuyang the reverberation seems to make.

The Shengguo Temple was originally tucked away deep in the Phoenix Mountain. First built during the Sui dynasty （581-618）， the temple acquired its name in the Tang dynasty （618-907） and fell into disuse after the Southern Song dynasty （1127-1279）. In 1368， the temple was restored before burned down in 1522 by the Japanese pirates. Later rebuilt， it was ravaged again in 1621. Although it enjoyed some glory when Emperor Qianlong （1711-1799） went there and left inscriptions， the temple was completely destroyed in 1851. Now， some of the remnant can still be found. Carved statues of the Eighteen Arhats， though weather beaten after more than a thousand years， are very much recognizable. Inscriptions on the cliffside， including two characters （Zhongshi， which means “l(fā)oyalty”） written by Zhao Gou （1107-1187）， Emperor Gaozong of Song， are clearly visible. The foundation of the temple’s main hall and some of the old caves are also there.

The Feilai Peak （or Peak Flown from Afar） was the third place that Wang had been to， which is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Hangzhou， with more than three hundred exquisitely carved Buddhist statues hidden in the caves of the walls of the cliff. Also known as Lingjiu Peak， the Feilei Peak can be seen right in front of Hangzhou’s Lingyin Temple. Legend has it that over 1，600 years ago， when an Indian monk by the name of Huili arrived， he was quite surprised to see a peak towering above the nearby valley and high in the sky. He wondered aloud “how has such a peak flown all the way from India to this place？” Hence the name of the peak.

In Ascending the Flying Peak， he declared：

On the Feilai Peak is perched a pagoda eight thousand feet high，

It is said one can see the sun rise once the rooster crows.

Unafraid of floating clouds blocking my views，

I am already standing on the loftiest peak.

Some argued that this poem， in particular the last two lines， showed Wang’s aspirations to attain higher offices and to carry out his reforms later on. The “floating clouds”， for example， is believed to be a metaphor for those manipulating officials at the imperial court impeding his advancement. However， it is unclear whether a 30-year-old Wang， still 20 years away from assuming chancellorship， harbored such ambitions at the time， but he surely would like to make his country a better place.

Finally， Wang wrapped up his Hangzhou tour with a poem titled Written for Shengzhi in Hangzhou.

A fantastic place to visit， you should bear in mind，

For all can match those in the capital you find.

Trees， mountains， winter snow， and all the water，

The second month’s flowers bloom on city walls amid the spring wind.

In pleasure boats music greets the sunset，

In painted chambers lanterns and candles outshine the twilight.

To write the place if you are so kind，

People up north it will spellbind.

As the title made it clear， it was for Shengzhi， courtesy name of Wang Yirou （1015-1086）， a contemporary of Wang’s and a Song official as well. In the poem， Wang Anshi was all praise for Hangzhou， comparing it to the Northern Song capital Bianzhou （present-day Kaifeng， Henan）， before stating that this poem， if written by Shengzhi， would have undoubtedly impressed people from the capital even more.