雨田

青田華僑陳列館墻上有幾張老照片，黑白色調泛起歲月侵蝕的微黃，似在靜訴一段流逝的記憶。照片中眾人皆西裝革履，大多眉目清秀，梳著標致的民國西裝頭，在當時應是很紳士的做派。這可能是青田華僑留給人們最深的印象。每每到了這里，來自世界各地的參訪者都迫切地想知道，與中國其他僑鄉(xiāng)相比，這些老照片背后隱藏著青田僑鄉(xiāng)怎樣的文化個性？

“首先，青田華僑史，并非源于修鐵路、挖金礦的經(jīng)歷， 而是經(jīng)商，所以最典型的形象便是商販。因為常年在外行商， 維持體面形象是必須的，久而久之，西裝革履就成為青田華僑的重要標識之一?！毖孕『Ｔ谝慌越忉尩?。談及青田的華僑故事，這位從事僑史研究的本土學者言語中充滿自豪。在青田縣華僑史料征集辦公室工作，常需要對征集到的老照片進行身份辨認，通過聯(lián)絡華僑后人，還原一個個塵封多年的故事。多年努力下，青田的華僑史被不斷完善，青田僑鄉(xiāng)文化的個性，也慢慢清晰起來。

僑史——與世界共脈動

記得一位學者曾這樣概括性地劃分近代出洋的中國人：出西洋者，多為貴家子弟;出東洋者，多為知識分子、革命黨人;下南洋者，十之八九為貧苦大眾。直到此番接觸到青田的華僑史，才發(fā)現(xiàn)原來還有這樣一群“下西洋”的中國人，他們一無官方背景，二無萬貫家財，僅靠一雙手和聰明的頭腦，漂洋過海到西洋謀生。歐洲也因此成為青田人的主要旅居地。反觀國內其他幾處僑鄉(xiāng)，廣東江門五邑華僑主要分布在北美、澳大利亞等地;廣東潮汕、福建泉州華僑則多分布于東南亞。這種地域上的差異也讓青田形成獨具特色的僑鄉(xiāng)文化。

“因歐洲是近代以來的世界中心，故青田人的移民史實際上與世界歷史尤其是20世紀世界歷史的進程密切相關?！毖孕『＿@樣說道。在他的研究中，往往能在一個小家族故事中窺見大歷史。

追溯起來，在清朝晚期，就有少數(shù)青田人到海外謀生， 在異國他鄉(xiāng)拼搏出一條生路。早期青田人，小部分選擇行程較近的日本，也有部分前往北美，而更多的則前往歐洲，他們通過馬六甲海峽經(jīng)印度洋、蘇伊士運河進入歐洲;甚至還有人通過陸路，經(jīng)西伯利亞鐵路進入歐洲，其間經(jīng)歷莽莽森林、 廣袤苔草原野，途中的艱難險阻，難以想象。

自1911年后，青田迎來了第一次出國高潮?！耙粦?zhàn)” 時，青田不少青壯年踴躍報名赴歐參與戰(zhàn)場服務，他們見證了戰(zhàn)場殘酷的廝殺，戰(zhàn)后留下來的成了最早的青田華僑群體;“一戰(zhàn)”到“二戰(zhàn)”期間，青田人前往歐洲的人數(shù)加速增長，除了做苦工，他們大多成為流動小商販，足跡遍及歐洲城市與鄉(xiāng)村 ， 兜售各類小商品;“二戰(zhàn)”時，留在歐洲的青田商人在戰(zhàn)爭的炮火中身陷險境，他們依舊背起行囊行商，穿梭于各國邊境，九死一生……“二戰(zhàn)”結束、新中國成立之后，外出謀生的青田人一度減少，直至改革開放后再次迎來高潮。他們或到國外創(chuàng)辦實業(yè)， 帶動鄉(xiāng)人致富;或順應全球化時代的步伐，回國投資創(chuàng)業(yè)，利用國內資源與廉價勞動力，進行國內外產業(yè)聯(lián)動，將“Made in China”銷往全球。

此外，海外的青田華僑、青田籍僑胞還為國家實現(xiàn)和平 統(tǒng)一而不遺余力，曾于2000年成立“全球華僑華人推動中國和平統(tǒng)一大會”，推動全球華僑華人和平統(tǒng)一運動。時至 今日，歐洲的德國、西班牙、法國、比利時、瑞典、丹麥、 保加利亞等主要國家，以及南美洲巴西、非洲喀麥隆等國家的華僑華人中國和平統(tǒng)一促進會的主力皆是青田籍僑胞。

發(fā)展至今，青田的 54 萬人口中，就有33萬華僑在海外打拼，可謂“家家有華僑，人人是僑眷”。旅居國從早期的 西班牙、意大利、法國、奧地利、荷蘭、荷蘭等國，擴散至 東歐的俄羅斯、波蘭、匈牙利甚至南美的巴西、巴拉圭等國，分布國家和地區(qū)由原來的40多個增加到128個，號稱“全球 24 小時都有青田人在沐浴陽光”。

僑民——擁抱海洋的山里人

行商足跡遍及全球的青田人，常被人譽為“東方猶太人”。但青田人對此并不茍同，在他們看來，古時猶太人因亡國而被遣散四方，是一種強迫之下的遷徙。而讓青田人倍感自豪的是，他們祖上并非出于人為強迫，或被坑蒙拐賣成為苦力而出國，而是一種主觀上的積極進取，他們迫切希望走出深山，與命運抗爭。早年青田華僑多找親友籌借銀元，到國外后，辛辛苦苦積攢所得，千方百計往老家寄錢;也有經(jīng)過自身拼搏致富者，不忘提攜、接濟初來乍到的同鄉(xiāng)。畢竟在異國他鄉(xiāng)，逆境多順境少，他們只能依靠自己的力量，抱團取暖，共渡難關。

事實上，青田的華僑史也是一部青田人走出大山的奮斗史。

翻開青田資料，便可見一番“先天不足”的心酸：青田全縣面積2493.34 平方公里，山地便占89.7%，溪河塘庫占5%，耕地僅占5.3%， 素有“九山半水半分田”之說。據(jù)史載：“（青田）重山復水， 高深險阻，無平原廣野林麓蔽澤之饒，民生其間，梯山為田， 窖薯為糧，終歲勤苦而不得一飽，何其苦也?！鼻嗵锩裰V“青田三件寶：火籠當棉襖、火篾當燈草、番薯絲吃到老”，正是山區(qū)貧苦農民生活的真實寫照。青田華僑發(fā)源地山口、方山、山炮、孫山、阜山等皆以“山為名”，可見僑鄉(xiāng)與山區(qū)環(huán)境息息相關。

在古時，貧瘠的自然環(huán)境一旦遇上天災人禍，便會讓青田人迅速陷入苦難深淵。據(jù)《青田縣志》（1990 年版）記載：明崇禎十年，“大饑荒，百姓上山挖蕨根為食，并以觀音土和米粉蒸食充饑”;清道光十四年，“大旱，饑荒……百姓吃秕糠、草根、麻葉，加以疫病流行，死亡十之二三，戶口驟減”……民以食為天，青田山區(qū)人民處于如此極端惡劣的生存環(huán)境中，無以為生，自然萌生異地闖蕩之念。全國聞名的幾大僑鄉(xiāng)多出自沿海地區(qū)，而青田則是內陸山區(qū)的僑鄉(xiāng)，青田人身居大山，卻毅然選擇擁抱海洋，書寫出一部山區(qū)僑鄉(xiāng)崛起的傳奇。

僑鄉(xiāng)——與石雕之鄉(xiāng)相互成就

青田的華僑史，還與石雕密切相關。青田石雕隨著青田人的腳步而遠銷海外，開創(chuàng)了青田石雕國際貿易的先河。 早在晚明時期，中國資本主義萌芽出現(xiàn)，沿海地區(qū)商品貿易日趨活躍。青田涌現(xiàn)了一批棄農經(jīng)商的石雕商販，他們肩挑手提，走南闖北，到繁榮的城市、港口、碼頭及景點擺攤設點，沿街叫賣。早期青田華僑也有人販賣石雕籌集出國盤纏。石雕可謂是華僑打開異國大門的鑰匙。在晚清到民國初年，青田人攜精美石雕遠赴歐美參加賽會（博覽會），讓西方人領略到東方石雕之美，也成為早期的中國文化成功輸出的典型范例。

青田石雕創(chuàng)造過博覽會上的輝煌：1853 年，青田石雕在南美洛易賽會上展出;1893年，石刻商人參加意大利都靈賽會;1896年，又參加歐洲萬國博覽會;1899 年，青田旅法華僑獲法國政府允許，在“巴黎賽會”上出售青田石雕;1905 年 20 位青田石雕藝術家和石雕商人前往美國圣路易“世界萬物博覽會”。其間多次斬獲博覽會大獎，如1915年美國辦“太平洋萬國博覽會”，青田商人精選青田石雕前往參展，并獲工藝美術類最高獎項——銀獎。

隨著青田石雕日益聲名遠揚，在海外需求的刺激下，青田人進一步激發(fā)外出闖蕩的決心，使出國謀生在青田形成群體效應。另一方面，石雕遠銷海外又促進了青田石雕技藝的成熟以及人才培養(yǎng)，使青田石雕技藝不斷創(chuàng)新，同時吸收西洋藝術的長處。青田人根據(jù)外國人的審美、市場需求的變化不斷調整石雕風格，充分發(fā)揮了青田人靈活多變的優(yōu)點，造就了青田“石雕之鄉(xiāng)”的美譽。所以，華僑之鄉(xiāng)與石雕之鄉(xiāng)可謂相互成就。

青田已故老華僑林子才曾留下一首以青田鼓詞形式寫成的“十字歌”，其開頭四句為：“一字青田出石巖，山口王君創(chuàng)利先。聰明雕巧成古董，雕成古玩進洋關。先到洋關賣青石，哄騙洋人是古巖。洋人買去當寶貝，感動后陣人出番。” 青田人與石為伍，以石為生，于是就有了青田石一樣的性格。在漫長的歷史進程中，逐步形成了鮮明的“大氣開放，創(chuàng)業(yè)天下”的青田精神，以石雕開辟了通向世界的奮斗之路。

僑情——歐陸風情與田園鄉(xiāng)村相融

青田，常被譽為浙江離歐洲“最近”的縣。歐陸風情與山村田園風光和諧相融，成為青田僑鄉(xiāng)的又一顯著特質。

中西合璧，早已烙在青田人的生活方式上。在這里，你可以漫步羅馬式的廣場，品一杯醇香濃郁的意大利特濃咖啡，在閑逸中度過一個布拉格式的浪漫午后;也可以在深山里嘗一回紅燒田魚，在山水林泉中體會詩意棲居;你可以不出國門購遍全球，放心選購價格媲美原產地的進口商品;還可以在石刻治印中，感受金石文化的高深奧妙……青田僑鄉(xiāng)風情，詮釋了西式高雅與中式清逸并行不悖;既有都市的國際化，又兼具鄉(xiāng)村人家的煙火氣。

而作為凝固的藝術，青田的建筑也能直觀反映出僑鄉(xiāng)風情。花旗街、裕堂別墅、臨江路、新大街，不同年代、風格各異的歐式建筑藏身于全縣各地。在鄉(xiāng)村，教堂、洋樓與本土的寺廟、道觀相依并存;在城區(qū)，藍色穹頂?shù)膰辆帧⒌刂泻ｏL格的銀行、德式民居等齊聚一街，巴洛克風、新古典主義、維多利亞風等多種風格融匯、碰撞，為青田所用，并被青田所成就。

Qingtian， a County of the World

By? Yu? Tian

On the wall of Qingtian Overseas Chinese Exhibition Hall there are a few old photos in black and white， quietly telling the faded memory of the past. Most of the people in the photos are dressed in a Western style with sharp suits and shiny leather shoes， obviously gentleman-like in the old days， which set visitors wondering： compared to their counterparts， what is so unique about the overseas Chinese of Qingtian origins？

“First， it is worth noting that the history of the Qingtian overseas Chinese does not start from building railroads or digging gold mines， but from business， so the most typical image about an overseas Chinese of Qingtian origin is a businessman，” explained Yan Xiaohai， a scholar in Qingtian county of Zhejiang’s Wenzhou city specializing in the history of overseas Chinese. “Because it is always necessary to look decent while doing business， overtime， for the Qingtian overseas Chinese suits gradually became an important means of livelihood.” It is the job of the Overseas Chinese Historical Statistics Collection Office of Qingtian County to identify the people in the old photos by contacting their descendants and restore each of their stories which have been buried deep for ages. Thanks to their persistent efforts since years ago， the history of the Qingtian overseas Chinese has been enriched gradually and their general characteristics have been slowly shown to the public.

A scholar once described the Chinese who went abroad in the modern era in this way： those who headed to the West were mostly sons of noble families; those who headed to the East were mostly intellectuals and revolutionaries; and those who went to the South were mostly poor people. It was not until we ran into the history of Qingtian overseas Chinese did we discover that there was a group of Chinese who went to the West with no official background and little wealth but only bare hands and a bright mind. Europe thus became their major destination， nurturing a unique culture for the Qingtian overseas Chinese.

“Europe has become the center of the world since modern times， therefore the emigration history of Qingtian people is actually closely related to the world history， especially the history of the 20th century，” which is how Yan puts it. In his research， the course of history as a whole could always be observed through some story of a single family.

As early as in the late Qing dynasty （1616-1911）， a small number of Qingtian people went overseas to make a living， facing unimaginable hardships and dangers without doubt.

After 1911， Qingtian saw the first peak of its people going abroad， and the number of Qingtian people going to Europe between World War I and World War II increased exponentially. After the founding of People’s Republic of China， the number decreased until the second climax appeared right after the Reform and Opening-up. Settling down overseas， those Qingtian pioneers either set up companies helping the locals get rich together， or returned to China to make investments and start their own business， in line with the pace of globalization. By leveraging the abundant resources and cheap labor in China， they have managed to link up the industries at home and abroad， and sell the “Made in China” merchandises to the rest of the world.

In addition， overseas Chinese of Qingtian origins have spared no effort to realize the peaceful reunification of China. In 2000， the “Global Overseas Chinese Conference for the Peaceful Reunification of China” was established to promote the peaceful reunification movement of overseas Chinese worldwide.

So far， among the population of 540，000 in Qingtian， there are 330，000 working and living abroad， so it is safe to say that for Qingtian people， “there are overseas settlers in every household and everyone is a relative to an overseas settler”. The number of countries and regions where Qingtian folks have settled down has increased from slightly over 40 to 128： from Spain， Italy， France， Austria， the Netherlands to Russia， Poland， Hungary and even many South America countries like Brazil， Paraguay， etc.

The Qingtian people are so well traveled that they are often called the “Jews of the East”. However， they themselves simply do not agree with this， for the Jews， as they believe， were forced into a dispersed migration in ancient times for historical reasons. Qingtian people are actually very proud of the fact that their ancestors did not leave their homeland because they were forced to， but because they were eager to fight against their fate.

In fact， the history of Qingtian overseas Chinese is also a history of Qingtian people trying to get out of their mountainous land. If you take a look at the geographic statistics of Qingtian， you can see how harsh the natural conditions are set for this place： the total area of Qingtian county is 2493.34 square kilometers， where the mountains account for 89.7%， streams， rivers and ponds account for 5%， and arable land only accounts for 5.3%. This extremely harsh environment has left them practically nothing to live for.

The history of overseas Chinese in Qingtian is also closely related to stone carvings. Brought overseas by Qingtian businessmen， they have been well received， paving the way for large-scale international trade afterwards.

With the growing fame of Qingtian stone carving， the overseas demand has further made the Qingtian people determined to go abroad to make a living out of this local treasure. On the other hand， the export of stone carvings has contributed to the improvement of Qingtian stone carving techniques and the cultivation of talent in the industry， which has given Qingtian the reputation of “the hometown of stone carving”.

Qingtian is often referred to as the county “closest” to Europe in Zhejiang. The harmonious fusion of the European style and local rural scenery has become another distinctive characteristic of Qingtian.

The cultural combination of East and West has long been influencing the lifestyle of Qingtian people. Here， you can stroll through a Roman-style square， sip a cup of rich Italian espresso， and spend a romantic Prague-like afternoon in leisure; you can also taste braised fish in a restaurant hidden in the mountains， and explore a poetic way of living in the nature; you can do some global shopping， and buy imported goods at prices just like in their countries of origin; you can also experience the profound culture from Qingtian stone carving and seals.

In Qingtian， there is such elegance coming in both a Western way and an East way， creating a unique atmosphere of international modernity and rural hospitality combined.

As a kind of solidified art， Qingtian’s architecture can also visually reflect the style derived from the century-old practice of emigration. The European-style buildings of different eras and in various forms are hidden all over the county， including Huaqi Street， Yutang Villa， Linjiang Road and New Street. In the countryside， churches and Western-style buildings coexist with local temples and Taoist temples; in the downtown， the blue-domed Land Office， Mediterranean-style banks， German-style houses can be seen with other buildings in Baroque， Neoclassical and Victorian styles， harmoniously together in the small county of Qingtian.