臺(tái)繡：與古為新 獨(dú)樹一幟

劉凡力 張涵涵

臺(tái)繡為臺(tái)州刺繡的簡(jiǎn)稱，又名“雕平繡”“海門雕繡”，是中國(guó)民間刺繡的一種獨(dú)創(chuàng)形式，見證了早期中西文化的交融。20世紀(jì)初（1906年），法國(guó)仁愛會(huì)來(lái)海門（今臺(tái)州）天主教堂傳教，向教堂的女教徒和孤兒傳授西方的“雕鏤”和“抽紗”技藝，俗稱“天主堂花”，經(jīng)與臺(tái)州傳統(tǒng)手工刺繡融合發(fā)展，逐漸形成了獨(dú)具地域文化特色的“海門雕繡（臺(tái)州刺繡）”。鼎盛時(shí)期，以臺(tái)繡為基礎(chǔ)的貿(mào)易出口產(chǎn)值達(dá)到8億元，繡花人員達(dá)13萬(wàn)人，產(chǎn)品遠(yuǎn)銷60多個(gè)國(guó)家和地區(qū)。臺(tái)繡更是以獨(dú)有的“雕平繡”風(fēng)格稱譽(yù)海外，國(guó)際上譽(yù)為“東方瑰寶”。

臺(tái)繡第三代傳承人林霞（中國(guó)工藝美術(shù)大師、中國(guó)刺繡藝術(shù)大師、浙江省萬(wàn)人計(jì)劃“傳統(tǒng)工藝領(lǐng)軍人才”，臺(tái)繡服飾董事長(zhǎng)兼藝術(shù)設(shè)計(jì)總監(jiān)），出生在臺(tái)繡的發(fā)源地，從小在外婆的花繃前長(zhǎng)大。她自幼酷愛美術(shù)，兒童時(shí)期隨從水彩畫家哈定先生學(xué)習(xí)繪畫。16歲時(shí)，她憑著優(yōu)秀的繪畫功底，考入當(dāng)時(shí)規(guī)模最大的臺(tái)州繡衣廠，成為一名繡衣設(shè)計(jì)師，從此，便與臺(tái)繡結(jié)下了不解之緣。

林霞是傳統(tǒng)臺(tái)繡的傳承人，更是當(dāng)代臺(tái)繡的開創(chuàng)者。四十余年深耕不輟，與臺(tái)繡深入對(duì)話、共同成長(zhǎng)，不斷地打破又重新建立……她在傳統(tǒng)抽、拉、雕技藝的基礎(chǔ)上，突破了刺繡原本依附于畫面的屬性，以更加通透、立體浮雕的技法和概念的藝術(shù)設(shè)計(jì)，衍生出“纖藝?yán)C”，形成屬于臺(tái)繡自己的語(yǔ)言以及鮮明的風(fēng)格特點(diǎn)。她創(chuàng)作的《網(wǎng)絡(luò)天下》《原 ·? 衍生》《降生》《萬(wàn)物生》《萬(wàn)物靈》《紫椹》等精品佳作，榮獲國(guó)際、國(guó)家級(jí)金獎(jiǎng)50余項(xiàng)，多件作品被國(guó)際級(jí)博物館收藏。此外，她通過創(chuàng)意設(shè)計(jì)，將臺(tái)繡的文化、技藝和藝術(shù)元素進(jìn)行萃取轉(zhuǎn)化，形成多樣化的實(shí)用產(chǎn)品。其作品賦予臺(tái)繡更當(dāng)代的表達(dá)，與時(shí)代融合更趨緊密。

Taizhou Embroidery： Integrating Past and Present

By Liu Fanli? Zhang Hanhan

Taizhou Embroidery， or simply Taixiu in Chinese， is a folk embroidery that has witnessed the early integration of Chinese and Western cultures. In 1906， when a group of French Catholic missionaries went to Haimen （present-day Taizhou）， they passed on Western embroidery techniques， such as cutwork and drawnwork， to nuns and orphans in the local church. That’s also why Taizhou Embroidery is also known as “Cutwork Embroidery” or “Haimen Embroidery”. Overtime， these techniques were incorporated into traditional Chinese embroidery and a unique style of embroidery was born. At its peak， Taixiu and Taixiu-related products worth 800 million yuan were exported to over 60 countries and regions， and as many as 130，000 embroiderers were employed in the industry. For its unique style， Taixiu is known as the “oriental treasure” on the international stage.

Born in Taizhou， Lin Xia， a third-generation inheritor of the Taixiu craft and founder of TAISILK， started to learn painting at a very young age. When she was 16， Lin passed the examination and became a designer in the biggest embroidery garment factory in Taizhou. Since then， her Taixiu career has taken off.

Indeed， Lin is both an inheritor of traditional Taixiu and a pioneer of modern Taixiu. In over four decades， Lin has gone beyond traditions， injected new art designs and techniques， and created her distinctive style. Her works， including Web World and Birth， won more than 50 international and national awards， and many have been collected by international museums. Moreover， through creative designs， Lin has transformed elements of the Taixiu culture， craft and arts into a diverse selection of products， imbuing Taixiu with a contemporary expression and bringing it to modern life.