Fashions of the 1920’s

By Dolores Monet

一部《了不起的蓋茨比》把我們帶回到了美國20世紀20年代——璀璨繁華，紙醉金迷，個性張揚，沒有人能否認這是一個激情燃燒的年代。燃燒了青春，燃燒了愛情，燃燒了藝術的靈感，也燃燒了時尚與流行的黃金歲月。

Women’s Fashions of the 1920’s

Women’s fashions of the 1920’s are a large part of the Jazz Age1. Jazz Age: 爵士時代，指20世紀20年代，美國著名作家菲茨杰拉德的作品對爵士時代的特點進行了詳細而生動的刻畫和描述。identity. New technology and the end of the horrors brought about by World War I and the 1918 Flu Pandemic gave rise to a youthful exuberance personified by the Flapper.2. 伴隨著第一次世界大戰(zhàn)和1918年大流感引起的恐慌的結束以及新技術的發(fā)展，以摩登女郎為代表的洋溢著青春活力的風格形象開始悄然興起。flapper:（尤指20世紀20年代行動與衣著不受傳統(tǒng)束縛的）年輕女子；personify: 是……的化身，清楚體現(xiàn)。

Contrary to popular misconception, the short skirts and bold make up of the flapper did not rule the fashion of the day.3. misconception: 誤解，錯誤想法；bold: 敢作敢為的，無拘無束的；rule: v. 占支配地位，起控制作用。Fashion periods are usually distinguished by the female silhouette which presented a boyish figure with flattened breasts and loose clothing for most of the decade.4. 這一時期時尚潮流主要體現(xiàn)在女性的服裝式樣上，在這十年間女性著裝顯得十分男性化，不著意襯托胸部曲線，且衣服樣式寬松。silhouette: 輪廓，衣服式樣。

The drop waist shift dresses of the 1920’s relieved women of the last vestiges of Edwardian formality.5. drop waist: 低腰的；shift dress: 寬松直筒連衣裙；relieve sb.of sth.: 將某人從……中解脫出來；vestige: 殘留部分，殘余；Edwardian:（服裝）指英王愛德華七世時代式樣的（沙漏形女裝和緊身男裝）；formality:（寫作風格，行為方式等的）正式，正式性。Less tailoring,as well as the availability of the sewing machine meant that women could easily make fashionable clothing at home so that high fashion was no longer restricted to the elite.6. tailoring: 剪裁，成衣工藝；availability: 可用性，可得性；sewing machine: 縫紉機；elite:上層人士。

Women felt empowered when they won the right to vote(1920 in the US, 1928 for 21 year old women in Britain).7. empower: 給予（某人）權力，使自主；right to vote: 投票權，選舉權。The widespread use of the automobile, radio, and increased educational opportunities encouraged young women to cut off their hair and kick up their heels.8. widespread: 普遍的，廣泛的；kick up: 〈口〉提高，抬高。

The New Culture of the 1920’s

During World War I, young women worked outside the home more than they had in the past. They drove cars and disregarded9. disregard: 漠視，輕視。tradition. Gender-specific clothing began to fall by the wayside after women worked in munitions factories during the Great War.10. gender-specific: 針對不同性別的；fall by the wayside: 中途退出，半途而廢；munitions: 軍火，軍需品。A kind of cynicism that came in the aftermath of the Great War and the devastating flu pandemic created a youth culture that glorified in fast living, dancing, and the exciting sounds of syncopated jazz, described by the writer, F. Scott Fitzgerald, as the Lost Generation.11. 一戰(zhàn)和毀滅性的大流感之后一種憤世嫉俗的悲觀主義情緒滋生，這導致了新文化現(xiàn)象的產(chǎn)生，青年人開始崇尚快節(jié)奏的生活、跳舞和爵士樂切分音令人興奮的節(jié)奏感，作家菲茨杰拉德將這代年輕人描述為“迷惘的一代”。cynicism: 憤世嫉俗的；syncopated:切分的，切分音樂的；F. Scott Fitzgerald：弗·斯科特·菲茨杰拉德，美國著名小說家，爵士時代的代表作家，代表作包括《了不起的蓋茨比》、《人間天堂》、《夜色溫柔》等；Lost Generation: 迷惘的一代，第一次世界大戰(zhàn)后美國的一個文學流派，代表人物包括海明威、福克納、艾略特等。

The youth drank in carefree disregard of Prohibition(which outlawed the manufacture, sale, and distribution of alcohol but not its consumption) and lost respect for authority and traditional morals.12. carefree: 無憂無慮的；Prohibition: 禁酒時期（美國1920年至1933年間規(guī)定釀酒或售酒為非法）；outlaw: 使非法，禁止。Young women smoked cigarettes and danced the Charleston and Blackbottom,typified by fast, jerky movements.13. Charleston: 查爾斯登舞，20世紀20年代在生活于美國南部的黑人中流行的一種舞曲；Blackbottom: 黑人扭擺舞，1920年流行的一種舞蹈；typify: 是……的典型；jerky: 連續(xù)的，忽停忽動的。

Flappers in corporated14. incorporate: 納入，列入。an unusual use of clothing into the wild new style. Flappers rolled stockings below the knee, and wore unhooked rubber galoshes that flapped when they walked.15. unhook: 解開……的鉤子；galosh: 高級橡皮套鞋，（雪地穿的）高筒套鞋； flap: 拍打，拍動。

Fashions of the 1920’s—Hemlines16. hemline:（衣裙下擺的）底邊，底緣。

Skirt hemlines began to rise in 1913 when skirts stopped just above the ankles17. ankle: 腳踝。. By 1818, hemlines had risen to just below calf length and for the next several years showed variations of a few inches one way or another.18. calf length: 及腿肚長的；variation:變化，變更；inch: 英寸，1英寸約等于2.54厘米。

In the early 1920’s, uneven hemlines gave the appearance of shortening when uneven, scalloped,and handkerchief hems became fashionable.19. uneven: 不直的，不規(guī)則的；scalloped: 鑲荷葉邊的，鑲扇形邊的；hem: 下擺，褶邊。1925 saw the dramatic rise of skirt hems into the Flapper style that has come to typify women’s clothing of the Roaring Twenties, but was a relatively short lasting phenomena.20. dramatic: 明顯的，顯著的；Roaring Twenties: 咆哮的20年代，是指北美地區(qū)（含美國和加拿大）20世紀20年代這一時期，“爵士時代”的又一代名詞。The short skirts of the Flapper was generally worn by younger women while older women wore longer skirts.

By 1929, asymmetrical21. asymmetrical: 不對稱的，不勻稱的。skirt hems brought hemlines back down.But fashions brief flirtation with short hemlines gave us the image of the modern woman, a style that continued (more or less)throughout the 20th century and into the 21st century.22. brief: 短暫的； flirtation: 一時的興趣（或參與）。

Fashions of the 1920’s—Hair and Hats

Modern concepts of hygiene23. hygiene: 衛(wèi)生。encouraged women toward more frequent hair washing. Emancipation24. emancipation: 解放。from traditional gender styles encouraged women to cut their long hair and free them from the complicated hair styles of Edwardian times.

The bob appeared in the US shortly before World War I but really took hold in the 1920’s, infuriating the older generation and igniting controversy about gender and appearance with the new androgynous look.25. 一戰(zhàn)之后不久，美國就出現(xiàn)了女孩梳齊耳短發(fā)，到了20世紀20年代，齊耳短發(fā)已然成為一種時尚，這種流行發(fā)型惹怒了老一輩人，也引發(fā)了關于性別和中性風格的討論。take hold: 確立，固定下來；infuriate: 使大怒，激怒；androgynous:（服飾等）為兩性所用的，男女不分的。

Women with bobs needed more frequent hair cuts, and wanted permanent waves, ushering in an explosion of beauty parlors that offered dye jobs, and perms, as well as the fashionable new hair cut.26. permanent: 持久的，穩(wěn)定的；usher in: 帶來，引進；explosion:（規(guī)模、數(shù)量）急劇增加，驟增；beauty parlor: 美容院；perm: 電燙發(fā)。

Cloche hats were all the rage; narrow, close fitting, bell shaped hats that often featured feathers, bows, beads, or artificial flowers.27. Cloche:（緊套于頭上的）鐘形女帽；all the rage: 風行一時的事物；feature: 以……為特色；bow:蝴蝶結；b e a d:珠子，串珠飾品；artificial: 人造的。

Fashions of the 1920’s—Coats and Shoes

Coats were generally calf length with the wrapper style predominating.28. wrapper:（女子室內(nèi)穿的）寬大長衣，浴衣；predominate: 居支配地位，占主導地位。The wrap coat was fastened with a large button or tab and buckle and featured a shawl style collar often trimmed in fur.29. 外套通常由一個大扣子或拉襻和扣形飾物一起扣住，而且以裝飾著鑲皮毛邊的披肩樣式的大領子為特征。wrap coat:外套；tab: （衣服等處的）襻（如拉襻、掛襻、搭襻等）。In addition to the familiar furs, coats and collars were sometimes trimmed in monkey fur.

Shoes were generally high heels30. high heel: 高跟鞋。just over two inches.Mary Janes and T strap styles with a medium slightly curved high heel were the dominant shoe of the day.31. Mary Janes: 瑪麗珍鞋，是對綁帶鞋的美式統(tǒng)稱，尤指那些低跟、圓面、腳踝搭扣綁帶式的鞋子；T strap shoes: T型帶鞋；dominant: 占優(yōu)勢的，統(tǒng)治的。

Women also wore tied Oxford type shoes with a short, stack heel for day wear.32. Oxford type: 牛津鞋是從17世紀英國牛津大學開始流行的男鞋，牛津鞋的特色在于鞋子楦頭以及鞋身兩側做出如雕花般的翼紋設計；stack heel: 疊層鞋跟。

Fashion Designers of the 1920’s

● Gabrielle Coco Chanel33. Gabrielle Coco Chanel: 加布里埃·可可·香奈兒，法國香奈兒品牌創(chuàng)始人。entered the fashion world in the 1920’s with her loose shift dresses, blouses, and evening coats in dark and natural shades. Long, belted blouses, and Russian peasant style embroidery simplified the look of women’s clothing.34. embroidery: 刺繡，繡制品，下文的embroider是其動詞形式；simplify: 簡化，精簡。In 1926, Coco Chanel claimed to have introduced the Little Black Dress, a fashion staple that has endured for 85 years.35. claim: 宣稱，聲稱；staple: 主要商品，主要產(chǎn)品。

● A new, masculine36. masculine: 有男子氣的，像男人一樣的。look offered loose, sailor style trousers for women to wear at home and at the beach. These ‘beach pajamas’ were an early form of a pants suit.

● Art Deco played a prominent role in the fashion trends of the 1920’s with geometric shapes based on natural lines.37. Art Deco: 裝飾派藝術，誕生于20世紀20年代，重視幾何塊體、重復線條以及曲折線的表現(xiàn)形式；geometric: 幾何的，幾何圖形的。

● The discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamen in 1922 set off an instant craze for all things Egyptian. Clothing styles and embellishments reflected designs and patterns of ancient Egypt.38. Tutankhamen: 埃及法老圖坦卡蒙； instant:短暫的，立即的；craze: 時尚，（一時的）狂熱；embellishment: 裝飾，修飾，后文的embellish是其動詞形式；reflect: 反映，表達。

● The designer Jean Patou designed romantic fashions embellished with fine lace, embroidery, and a lavish use of beading.39. Jean Patou: 讓·巴度，20世紀20年代到30年代最偉大的服裝設計師之一；lace: 蕾絲；lavish: 大量的，極其豐富的。Along with Coco Chanel, Patou’s garconne look created a tubular silhouette that de-emphasized the feminine figure by flattening the breasts, narrowing hips, and ignoring the waist.40. garconne:〈法〉假小子；tubular: 管形的，管狀的；de-emphasize: 不重視，不強調(diào)；feminine: 女性的。In 1922, Jean Patou became the first designer to embroider his initials onto the fabric of his sportswear designs, a concept that is still popular today.41. initial: 首字母；fabric: 織物，織品；sportswear: 運動裝，休閑活動時穿的衣服。