“吃春天”

譯/劉克成 Liu Kecheng

冬去春來，萬物復(fù)蘇。草長鶯飛，花艷草青，正是人間大美時。當(dāng)春天來臨的時候，嫩綠鮮艷、汁水飽滿的春日菜蔬彌補(bǔ)了人們冬日里的憋悶與欠缺。此時，人們踏青觀賞、感知春新，也期盼著品嘗那份春天獨(dú)有的美味。

Winter fades，and spring arrives，then everything comes back to life. The grass grows， birdssing，flowers bloom，and the worldburstswithcolour;itisthe season of pure beauty.As spring sweeps in，fresh，tender，and juicy seasonalvegetablesredressthe monotonyofwinter.Peoplehead outdoors to enjoy the sights，soak up the fresh energy of spring， and naturallylook forward to savouring the unique flavours that only this season can offer.

麥飯 Maifan

陜西人善于把春天鮮綠的蔬食與潔白細(xì)膩的面粉相糅合，創(chuàng)造出獨(dú)一無二的“陜西春味”。

People in Shaanxi have a knack formixing fresh，vibrant springgreenswith soft，delicate wheat flour，creatinga truly unique seasonal delight which isknownastheunmistakable \"Shaanxi spring flavours\"

在這“陜西春味”中，首一道就是各色各樣的“麥飯”。所謂“麥飯”，是與米飯相對應(yīng)的一種飯食。在古代水磨石磨技術(shù)發(fā)明及大規(guī)模應(yīng)用之前，人們食用小麥?zhǔn)侨缡秤么竺滓粯印傲Ｊ场钡?，這樣的飯食便被稱作“麥飯”。小麥粉碎碾磨技術(shù)大規(guī)模應(yīng)用之后，小麥絕大多數(shù)時候成了“粉食”。然而，人們依然沿用古稱謂，將小麥面粉與菜蔬拌和后蒸制的飯食稱作“麥飯”。這種叫法一直沿用至今，但凡是菜蔬與面粉拌和后蒸制的飯食，均可稱為“麥飯”。

Amongthemany flavourswhich define“Shaanxi spring flavours，” thefirstandforemostismaifan，whichcomesinmanydifferent varieties.Thenamemaifan，meaning“wheatrice，”derivesfrom ancienttimeswhenwheatwaseateninwholegrains，muchlikerice， beforetheinventionofstonemillingtechnology.Later，as stone grindingbecamewidespread，wheatwasgenerallyprocessedinto flour.However， thetraditionofmixingwheatflourwith vegetables andsteamingthemcontinued;peoplecontinuedtocallitmaifan， preservingtheoldname.Eventoday，anydishmadebyblendingfresh greens with wheat flour and steaming remains known asmaifan.

陜西人尤為喜食麥飯，這可能是當(dāng)?shù)囟喈a(chǎn)小麥加之長久以來形成的飲食習(xí)慣所致。

Shaanxi peoplehaveadeeploveofmaifan，probablyduetotheregion's abundantwheat productionand long-standingculinary traditions.

當(dāng)春天來臨，新綠的菜蔬，或是草和野菜，都成了陜西人制作麥飯的大好食材。

Withthe arrivalofspring，fresh greens，whethercultivated vegetables，wildherbs，orevencertainediblegrasses，becomethe perfect ingredientsformakingmaifan.

苜蓿（muxu），是一種味美、營養(yǎng)豐富的食物。春日吃苜蓿的上選是蒸苜蓿麥飯。食用時或加入蔥蒜炒香，或直接調(diào)入蔥花及其他佐料，或用調(diào)兌好的蒜泥醋汁辣椒水蘸食。油香誘人，沁潤胃脾。

Muxu（alfalfa）isadeliciousandnutrient-richspringtimetreat. Oneofthebestwaysto enjoyitistomakesteamedmuxumaifan. Therearemanywaysto servethisdish;someliketo stir-fryit withscallionsand garlicforaricharoma，while others prefer to mix in chopped green onions and seasonings.Anotherpopularmethodisto dipitina flavoursome sauce made of garlic paste，vinegar，and chilli water.With its enticing fragrance and refreshing taste，muxumaifanisasimpleyetirresistibledish which nourishes both the body and the soul.

白蒿 （hao），在陜西較多見，也是上好的中藥材。過去，有許多人采集白蒿交售給藥商以貼補(bǔ)家用。如今，日子好過了，很少有人采集出售，反而是拿回家去當(dāng)作食物。白蒿與面粉拌和后蒸制的麥飯最是宜人，尤其受到略懂“藥膳”知識的人們的喜愛，成為他們春日食鮮的重要選擇。

Baihao （Chinese mugwort） is a common sight in Shaanxi，having long been valued as a medicinal herb.In the past，many people would gather and sell it toherbal traders for extraincome，although times have changed; today， rather than sellingit，people bringit home to enjoyas food.Whenmixed with wheatflourandsteamed，baihaomaifanbecomesan incredibly flavoursomeand comfortingdish.Those familiar with the benefits of medicinal cuisine regard itas an essential part of their spring diet，savouring both its taste and its nourishing qualities.

榆錢，色澤為淡綠或黃白，因外形圓圓像古代銅錢而得名，又與“余錢”諧音，很是討喜。榆錢清甜馨香，常被用來制作榆錢麥飯。將新采的榆錢與面粉拌和后上籠屜蒸，最能保留榆錢的原味與營養(yǎng)，之后無論是炒制、拌制還是蘸食，都很美味。

Yuqian （elmsamara），hasalight greenor yellowish-whitecolour. Theirround shaperesembles ancient Chinese copper coins，which is why they were given this name.Further， because yuqian sounds like“extra money”in Chinese，people find thisname especially lucky.With their naturally sweetand fragranttaste，elmsamarasareoftenused tomakeyuqianmaifan.Freshly-pickedsamaras aremixed withwheat flourand steamed，a simple methodwhichretains intacttheir original flavour and nutritional value.After steaming，they can be stir-fried，mixed into dishes，or eaten with dipping sauces;regardlessof howyou prepare them，theyare delicious.

槐花麥飯是麥飯的“主力軍”。將采捋來的槐花淘洗干凈，瀝干水分，撒上適量的生面粉攪拌均勻，置入籠屜上鍋隔水蒸，幾分鐘便可出鍋。掀開鍋蓋，但見氤氬的蒸汽之中，槐花顏色依舊，自然新鮮。原本干干的面粉緊緊地貼服在槐花上，似裹上了一層銀裝。甫一開籠，那滿滿的清香撲面而來，不由讓人喉頭蠕動，津液分泌，食欲頓生。用油潑辣椒、醋、蒜泥等調(diào)制蘸汁，一頓可口的飯菜就這么簡單而又神奇地誕生了。

Locust flowermaifanis the star of all maifan dishes; freshly-picked locust flowers are thoroughly washed，drained，and evenly coated witha light dusting of raw flour. Once mixed， they go straight into a steamer，where they are cooked over boiling water，beingreadytoservewithin several minutes. Lifting the lid，a fragrant cloud of steam rises， revealingflowerswhichremainasfreshandvibrant as ever. The once-dry flour nowclings tightly to each blossom，forminga delicate，silvery coating;assoon as the steame is opened，an irresistible aroma fills theair，and the appetite instantlykicks in.Pairedwitha simple dipping sauce of chillioil，vinegar，and minced garlic，thisdish comes together in the most effortless yet magical way.

綠面

Green Noodles

陜西人“吃春天”的第二種選擇是搟制“綠面”。春日里，人們把鮮嫩的菠菜焯（chao）水后剁碎，與面粉一起和制，隨后搟成面條。下鍋煮熟后，面條依然是綠瑩瑩的，連帶鍋里的面湯也染綠了，煞是好看。這樣的菠菜面，先是色相誘人，后是滋味清香，面香菜香融為一體。此時，無論是搭配油潑、臊子干拌抑或酸湯等，皆是上佳美味。

Forpeople in Shaanxi，another way to“savour spring\"is to make green noodles.Fresh spinachis briefly blanched，chopped finely，andkneaded into flour to form a vibrant green dough; once rolled out and cut into noodles，it is cooked in boiling water， retaining its bright green hue，with even the broth taking ona beautiful green hue.Thisisa sight to behold; these spinach-infused noodles are both visually stunningandwonderfully fragrant，with the natural aroma of wheat and fresh greens blending harmoniously.Whether served with spicy oil drizzle， minced meat topping，or a tangy sour broth，every dishisatreatforthetastebuds.

陜西人喜食韭菜，春日里韭菜最鮮，于是他們別出心裁地做出了韭菜面，俗稱“韭菜片片”。煮熟后，夾一片韭菜片片進(jìn)嘴里，吃到的是韭菜濃郁的鮮香，當(dāng)然還有面香與油香。這韭菜片片較其他面條會墩厚一些，更加有嚼勁，咬一口唇齒豐盈，仿佛口腔里奏響了一曲交響樂。

Shaanxi locals love chives，and springtime brings the freshest，most fragrant ones.Tocelebrate， they craft chive noodles，affectionately known as jiucai pianpian.Oncecooked，every thick，hearty noodledelivers thebold，aromatic flavourof chives， enhanced by the nutty wheat scent and the rich taste of oil. Compared to regular noodles，chive pieces are thicker and chewier， having a satisfyingly bouncy texture.Witheverybite，the flavourscombineina symphonyoftasteandtexture

在春日的陜西，刺荊也被用來做綠面，很是特別。刺荊本是野草，也可看作草藥，所以刺荊面的藥膳功能更為顯著。

In springtime Shaanxi，cijing（Chinese thistle）is also used to make green noodles.Although originally a wild herb，and even considered medicinal， cijing noodlesoffernotablehealthbenefits.

菠菜面、韭菜面、刺荊面，不僅是陜西人對綠色植物的獨(dú)特認(rèn)知，更是他們對春日里天賜鮮綠的珍愛。這些綠面下鍋后，綠瑩瑩的面條在沸水中翻滾，散逸出綠菜或綠草特有的清香氣味。撈出來，就是一碗“翡翠”，碧綠清新，像是從翠綠的樹葉上剛切割下來一般，極為養(yǎng)眼。而經(jīng)典的吃法仍然是油潑一將紅格艷艷的辣椒面均勻地撒在面上，大紅大綠交織在一起，大俗大雅相得益彰，看得人眼睛直勾勾。這是要把世間美好的顏色都壘疊在一起么？

Noodleswith spinach，chive，or Chinese thistle demonstrate how people in Shaanxi embrace thevibrantgreensofnature;thisistheirwayof treasuringthefreshgiftsofspring.Oncethese“green noodles”enter the boiling water， they swirl and tumble，releasing the crisp，earthyaroma of fresh greens and wild herbs. Then comes the classic way toeatthem，whichisoil-sizzlingstyle.Hotred chilli powderissprinkled generously，then smokinghot oilis drizzled on; this createsan impressive “sizzle” releasingadeepandintoxicatingaroma.Thevibrant redagainstthefreshgreenisafeastfortheeye，being boldyetelegantand rustic yetrefined; thecolours clashand complement each otherso well that they keepattention.Doesthisdishtryto stackall themost beautifulcoloursoftheworldintooneirresistiblebowl？

春日食綠面，不僅體現(xiàn)了陜西人吃面的寬泛與精致，更彰顯了他們對食療的深厚理解、對生活和生命的敬重與熱愛。

Forthe people of Shaanxi， eating green noodles in springis a perfectblend of simplicityand refinement，reflectingtheirdeep-rootedbeliefinthe healingpoweroffood.Further，itisatributetolife itself，beingawayofembracingthevitalityofthe seasonwithrespectandlove.

陜西人春日食鮮，多是那傳統(tǒng)的“面”來做伴。何以如此？一是小麥天然純粹。小麥栽培歷史悠久，早在公元前2000年左右就已開始在中國種植。中國古人對小麥研究甚透，李時珍在《本草綱目》中記載：“小麥秋種冬長，春秀夏實(shí)，具四時中和之氣，故為五谷之貴?！币虼诵←湷耸秤?，亦廣泛藥用。由此看來，小麥?zhǔn)侨祟愖钤缡秤?、最重要的谷物之一。二是制作方法自然科學(xué)。這是很重要的一點(diǎn)，麥飯、面條、饅頭、鍋盔等的制作方法包括發(fā)酵、水蒸、水煮等，科學(xué)且保持了食物的原汁原味。用最基本的谷物、最科學(xué)的加工辦法做出來的食物，更能被無障礙地接受。三是麥香誘人。香味有很多種，就植物而言，各有各的香味，不同的香味為不同的人所喜好，但其中最基本的、為大多數(shù)人所喜歡的，是淡淡的清香。自然的、淡淡的麥香味，不僅能讓人感到輕松愉悅，還能刺激胃液的分泌。四是便于消化。相對而言，面食更容易消化。

InShaanxi，thearrivalofspringmeans fresh， vibrantingredients;moreoftenthannot，theyare pairedwithnoodles.Butwhynoodles？Firstly，it involveswheatwhichispureandnatural;wheathas beencultivatedforover10，oooyears，andby2000 BC，it wasalready growingin China. The ancient

Chinese studied it in depth; Li Shizhen wrote in theCompendiumofMateriaMedica：“Wheat is planted in autumn，grows in winter，flourishes in spring，and ripens in summer.It embodies the harmony of all four seasons，making it the most valuedof grains.”Asa result，beyond food，wheat has also been widely used in traditional medicine; quite simply，it is one of the earliest and most essential grains in human history. Secondly， the key issue is how naturally and scientificallyit is prepared.Whetherasmaifan，noodles，steamed buns，or Shaanxi's signature guokui （flatbread）， the traditional cooking methods of fermentation， steaming，and boilingare among the healthiest ways of processing food; these methods retain the original flavours while making digestion easier. When food is made from the simplest grains， using the most natural and scientific techniques， it isuniversally enjoyableand nourishing.Thirdly， itconcernsthe subtlewheat fragrance.There aremanykindsofaromas;every plant has its own scent， and while personal preferences vary， the mild，natural aroma of wheat is something that most people find comforting because this soft，warm fragrance both relaxes the mind and stimulates digestion.Finally， it is easy to digest; compared to many other foods，wheat-based dishes are generally easier to digest.

于是乎，陜西人就把春日鮮綠融進(jìn)碳水里，花花綠綠、歡歡樂樂地“吃春天”。

Therefore，in Shaanxi，people take the fresh greens of springand weave theminto carbohydrates，creatingafeastofcolours， flavours，and joy， thus“savouring spring.\"