將頭發(fā)盤成海螺狀,插上一支雪白的發(fā)簪(zān),含笑花、白玉蘭、茉莉花苞一圈又一圈地包裹烏發(fā),朵朵鮮花明艷而張揚(yáng)地圍繞發(fā)髻(jì)1開放……這樣一座“頭上花園”,就是近年來風(fēng)靡全國的蟳埔(Xúnpǔ)簪花圍,即蟳埔女特有的頭飾文化。
With hair styled into a shell bun, inserted with a white hairpin, and framed by rings of fresh flowers such as banana shrubs, magnolias, and jasmine buds, this “head garden” is the signature look of Xunpu fisherwomen. Recently, it has gained nationwide recognition.
春天一到,簪花又成為社交媒體上的熱門裝扮。無數(shù)或艷麗或淡雅的簪花造型紛紛“出圈”2,也讓人們的目光順著鮮花,匯聚到簪花圍的發(fā)源地,泉州深處一座古老的村莊—蟳埔。
Every spring, flower-decorated buns become a social media sensation. From vibrant designs to delicate arrangements, these intricate creations go viral online and draw attention to the centuriesold fishing village of Xunpu, nestled along Quanzhou’s picturesque coastline.
小小花園頭上插 Mini gardens of elegance
早在宋元時(shí)期,隨著海上絲綢之路的開通,港口城市泉州日益繁華,曾被稱為“東方第一大港”。蟳埔則位于泉州灣晉江入海口處,其附近的法石港,就曾是泉州重要的貿(mào)易港口之一。來自阿拉伯和東南亞的商船均停靠于此,當(dāng)年的蟳埔見證了世界各地文化在此碰撞和融合。
As early as the Song and Yuan dynasties, with the rise of the Maritime Silk Road, Quanzhou became a bustling port city, celebrated as the “l(fā)argest port in the East.” Xunpu is located at the mouth of the Jinjiang River in Quanzhou Bay. Nearby lies the historic Fashi Port, a vital trading hub where merchant ships from Arabia and Southeast Asia once docked. This makes Xunpu a witness to the exchange and blending of cultures from around the world.
在這樣的文化背景下,蟳埔簪花圍的來源顯得格外神秘:有人說這源自唐代盛行的簪花習(xí)俗,也有人說這是中亞商人帶來的風(fēng)俗,還有人說簪花來自琉球……也許,頭戴簪花圍,身穿“大裾衫”“闊腳褲”的蟳埔女,本身就是那個(gè)輝煌時(shí)代各種文化融合的證明。
Against this rich cultural backdrop, the origins of the flowerdecorated buns remain in mystery. Some believe they evolved from the Tang Dynasty’s flower-wearing customs, while others attribute their roots to traditions brought by Central Asian merchants or even influences from the Ryukyu Kingdom. Perhaps the Xunpu fisherwomen, adorned with flowers and dressed in long tunics and wide-legged trousers, embody the cultural fusion of that golden era.
蟳埔女的發(fā)型服裝十分實(shí)用。蟳埔的漁女們?nèi)粘P枰诤_厔谧鳎oL(fēng)很大,長(zhǎng)發(fā)容易被風(fēng)吹亂,遮擋視線,所以她們將頭發(fā)扎成結(jié)實(shí)的海螺髻。大裾衫、闊腳褲這樣的服裝則方便她們勞動(dòng)。
The look of Xunpu fisherwomen is highly practical. Working along the windy coast, they needed a way to keep their long hair out of their eyes. This led to the creation of sturdy seashell-shaped buns. Their tunics and wide-legged trousers allowed for freedom of movement for the demands of coastal labor.
據(jù)說,蟳埔女每天起床后的第一件事,就是用花朵裝扮自己,在自己的長(zhǎng)發(fā)上建起一座精致的“小小花園”。即使只是坐在海邊開牡蠣,她們依舊對(duì)這件事樂此不疲,仿佛這已經(jīng)成為一種日常。
It is said that each morning, local fisherwomen begin their day by carefully adorning their hair with flowers, creating what can only be described as a “elegant garden”atop their heads. Even while shucking oysters by the seaside, they remain meticulous about this ritual, treating it as an essential part of their daily routine.
簪花也是有講究的。最貼近發(fā)髻的是小小的花苞,用麻線串成環(huán)戴在頭上,少則一兩圈,多可達(dá)六七圈。然后圍繞發(fā)髻,簪上更大、更鮮艷的絹花,比如茉莉花、素馨花、玉蘭和菊花,這些花朵可隨著季節(jié)變化而更換,在發(fā)髻上次第開放,疏密有致。頭上“花園”插好了,蟳埔女走動(dòng)起來,花瓣微微顫動(dòng),更添風(fēng)致。有的女子還會(huì)戴上用金銀做的發(fā)釵、梳飾等。已婚女子則會(huì)在自己的耳環(huán)上添上一對(duì)墜子,當(dāng)?shù)厝私凶鳌岸∠銐嫛薄?/p>
The craft of wearing flowers is intricate. Closest to the bun are small flower buds, strung into rings with twine and arranged snugly around the bun. These can range from one or two loops to as many as six or seven. Surrounding these smaller blooms are larger, more vibrant silk flowers, such as jasmines, Arabian jasmines, magnolias, and chrysanthemums, that change with the seasons. These flowers bloom in harmonious sequence, creating a sense of balance and beauty. As the fisherwomen move, the petals gently tremble, adding charm to their appearance. Some women add gold or silver hairpins and comb-shaped ornaments, while married women complement their hairstyles with dangling earrings known locally as “hook pendants.”
隨著社會(huì)的發(fā)展,大部分蟳埔女日常的簪花逐漸變成顏色多樣、保存時(shí)間更長(zhǎng)的假絹花,這大大降低了每日簪花的成本。只有在特殊的節(jié)慶日,例如婚禮、生日等,蟳埔女才會(huì)用真正的鮮花來裝扮自己。在“媽祖娘娘”生日這一天,蟳埔女們更是盛裝走上街頭,鮮艷的衣裳和色彩繽紛的花朵交相輝映,熱鬧非凡。
With societal changes, most fisherwomen have replaced fresh flowers with colorful and long-lasting artificial silk blooms for everyday use, making it more affordable to maintain this tradition. Fresh flowers are now reserved for special occasions such as weddings or birthdays. On Mazu’s birthday1, they don their most vibrant attire, adorned with dazzling floral arrangements, transforming the streets into a festive spectacle.
隨著時(shí)間的推移,漸漸地,大部分年輕人已經(jīng)不再簪花,只有40歲以上的蟳埔女還在堅(jiān)持。2008年,蟳埔女簪花習(xí)俗被列入第二批國家級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)名錄。那些曾經(jīng)生動(dòng)鮮艷的簪花圍已經(jīng)成為亟須保護(hù)和傳承的歷史遺珍。
Over time, however, it is primarily women over 40 who continue to uphold the custom regularly, while younger generations have largely abandoned it. In 2008, this tradition was inscribed on China’s national intangible cultural heritage list, underscoring its significance as a treasure in need of preservation and transmission.
直到2023年,知名演員趙麗穎的一組簪花大片在社交媒體上意外走紅,將美麗的蟳埔簪花圍重新帶進(jìn)人們的視野,也打開了泉州文旅經(jīng)濟(jì)的新密碼。
In 2023, photos featuring Chinese actress Zhao Liying wearing flower-decorated buns unexpectedly went viral on social media, capturing public attention and opening new tourism opportunities for Quanzhou.
簪花的“出圈”之路 Newfound fame
旅游時(shí)穿上當(dāng)?shù)胤b在知名景點(diǎn)拍照,這在近年來尤為流行。簪花圍的興起則直接拉動(dòng)了蟳埔這個(gè)小村落的旅游業(yè)。隨著越來越多的明星、博主分享自己簪花圍的造型,簪花圍也在蟳埔迎來新生。
In recent years, a new travel trend has emerged: dressing in local attire and capturing photos at iconic landmarks. This growing enthusiasm has directly boosted tourism in the small village of Xunpu. Thanks to the influence of celebrities and social media influencers showcasing these hairstyles, the tradition of flower-decorated buns has experienced a vibrant revival.
如果你在團(tuán)購軟件上搜索“泉州簪花”,僅泉州本地就能獲得上千個(gè)結(jié)果。這些店鋪提供各種服務(wù),如簪花、化妝、服裝等。很多店鋪提供從妝造到拍攝包括后期制作等在內(nèi)的“一條龍”服務(wù)。團(tuán)購軟件顯示,泉州本地人氣最高的簪花店鋪,人均消費(fèi)500元以上。此外,店鋪還提供從一百元到上千元不等的簪花套餐,根據(jù)照片張數(shù)、拍攝人數(shù)、服裝套數(shù)等定價(jià),而每一種產(chǎn)品都有一個(gè)標(biāo)注:“需要提前預(yù)約?!笨梢婔⒒ìF(xiàn)在有多火。
A quick search for “Quanzhou flower-decorated buns”on group-buying apps reveals over a thousand listings from local businesses. These shops offer a variety of services, including flower styling, makeup, and traditional costumes. Many provide all-inclusive packages that cover styling, photography, and post-production. The most popular studio in Quanzhou charges an average of over 500 yuan per customer, with prices ranging from 100 to over 1,000 yuan, depending on the number of photos taken, participants, and costume changes. Advance booking is required for most services — a clear testament to the soaring demand.
這些店鋪遍布蟳埔的大街小巷,已形成一個(gè)新的產(chǎn)業(yè)。在流行的社交App上,有不少視頻介紹不同簪花店的風(fēng)格、特色,向大家反饋簪花的效果和服務(wù)質(zhì)量,給這些店鋪打分。如果你在社交平臺(tái)上搜索同樣的關(guān)鍵詞,?就能獲得上萬條有關(guān)“泉州簪花”的結(jié)果。在各種各樣的照片、視頻里,簪花圍的不僅有女生,甚至還有男生。誰能想到,這些曾戴在漁女頭上的花朵會(huì)成為泉州文旅的新密碼?新的消費(fèi)熱點(diǎn)不僅讓簪花文化重新煥發(fā)活力,也給當(dāng)?shù)厝藥砹瞬簧傩碌臋C(jī)會(huì)。早在十多年前,蟳埔的一些學(xué)校就開設(shè)了簪花課程,鼓勵(lì)年輕人傳承這項(xiàng)文化遺產(chǎn)。如今,越來越多的人主動(dòng)參與到簪花的學(xué)習(xí)之中。
Xunpu’s streets and alleys are now lined with businesses catering to this booming industry. Social media platforms are flooded with videos and posts showcasing the styles and services available, with users sharing reviews and photos of their experiences. A search for “Quanzhou flower-decorated buns” yields tens of thousands of posts, featuring not only women but also men sporting the style. Who would have imagined that the flowers once worn by fisherwomen could spark a cultural tourism boom for Quanzhou? This trend has not only revitalized a cherished tradition but also created new opportunities for local residents. Over a decade ago, schools in Xunpu began offering courses to encourage young people to preserve this cultural heritage. Today, more and more individuals are actively learning this art.
蟳埔一些上了年紀(jì)的阿姨們第一次發(fā)現(xiàn),她們?nèi)粘5聂⒒记涩F(xiàn)在竟然成了搶手的“香餑(bō)餑1”,聘請(qǐng)她們做簪花師,成為一些店鋪吸引顧客的好方法,因?yàn)樗齻兊氖炙囎畹氐馈⒆钫?。一些簪花師甚至成為人人?zhēng)相合影的“網(wǎng)紅姐姐”“網(wǎng)紅奶奶”。
Older women in Xunpu have found themselves in high demand as their everyday skills in crafting flowerdecorated buns become xiang bobo. Hiring these women as artisans has become a major draw for many shops, as their techniques are regarded as the most authentic. Some have even gained local celebrity status, affectionately called “viral aunties” or “viral grannies,” with customers eager to take photos alongside them.
與此同時(shí),簪花的熱潮已經(jīng)走出泉州、走出福建,在杭州、成都的旅游景點(diǎn),也能看到簪花圍的體驗(yàn)館。蟳埔女的傳統(tǒng)服飾真正火遍了大江南北。簪花的一次“出圈”,既拉動(dòng)了新消費(fèi)的增長(zhǎng),又滋養(yǎng)了文化遺產(chǎn)的土壤。
Meanwhile, the boom of flower-decorated buns has expanded far beyond Quanzhou and even Fujian. Experience centers offering styling services have sprung up in tourist hubs like Hangzhou and Chengdu. The traditional attire and hairstyles of Xunpu fisherwomen have captured national attention. This unexpected revival has not only opened new markets but also breathed new life into this cultural heritage.
舊時(shí)蟳埔漁女的簪花圍,如今搖身一變成為流行新風(fēng)尚,也許真正穿越歷史、打動(dòng)人心的,是那種人與自然之間日日相伴的親密,是人對(duì)美、對(duì)希望最質(zhì)樸的憧憬。
Behind the transformation of Xunpu’s flowerdecorated buns into a modern fashion statement, one thing remains unchanged: the profound connection between humans and nature, and a timeless longing for beauty and hope.
1 髻:盤在頭頂或腦后的發(fā)結(jié)。髻是形聲字,“髟”這個(gè)偏旁表示與毛發(fā)有關(guān),“吉”是它的讀音。Ji is a knot of hair coiled on top of the head or at the back. The character 髻 is a phono-semantic compound: the radical 髟indicates its relation to hair, while 吉 provides its pronunciation.
2 出圈:網(wǎng)絡(luò)流行語,意為某個(gè)事物進(jìn)入了更廣泛的公眾視野,變得更有名了。Chuquan is a popular Internet term meaning that something has broken out of its niche and gained greater fame.
1 Translator’s note: Mazu is a sea goddess deeply revered in China’s coastal regions, particularly among fishing communities.
1 餑餑:一種面食?!跋沭G餑”比喻受歡迎的人或物。Bobo is a type of steamed pastry. Xiang bobo is a metaphor for a person or thing that is popular or well-liked.