歷山秋眺

盡管濟(jì)南人仍習(xí)慣地將它稱為千佛山，而它最具光彩和自豪感的名字卻是歷山，或者，舜耕山。

山不算大，但古樸，優(yōu)雅，你順著西邊的山路往上走，首先看到的，是唐槐亭。此處原為曾公祠（曾鞏對(duì)濟(jì)南的貢獻(xiàn)真是千古一人，紀(jì)念他最為得當(dāng)），后為胡國(guó)公祠。如今改為唐槐亭，真是越改越縮小了意義；接著，齊煙九點(diǎn)、仰觀俯察、云徑禪關(guān)、峰回路轉(zhuǎn)等坊，那是絕妙好詞對(duì)應(yīng)著恰如其分的絕妙好景的。興國(guó)禪寺不大，但有韻味，給濟(jì)南人的感覺如同趵突泉的東門，雖則舊，雖則小，但那雅致超逸的味道，卻是任何的高門崇樓所不能取代的。

興國(guó)寺的楹聯(lián)很有特點(diǎn)，上聯(lián)暮鼓晨鐘驚醒世間名利客，下聯(lián)經(jīng)聲佛號(hào)喚回苦海夢(mèng)迷人。有著一種不以名利為念、追求精神境界的超越情懷。我相信許多的濟(jì)南人都受過它的啟發(fā)與熏陶。這里還是觀景的佳處。猶在夏日，清涼無(wú)比。古人有“七月欲盡熱似炙，來(lái)此忽然風(fēng)生腳”的妙句。這里景致也美，即便在山下或遠(yuǎn)處望它。劉鶚在《老殘游記》有段描寫：“到了鐵公祠前，朝南一望，只見對(duì)面千佛山上，梵宇僧樓，與那蒼松翠柏，高下相間，紅的火紅，白的雪白，青的靛青，綠的碧綠，更有那一株半株的丹楓夾在里面，仿佛宋人趙千里的一幅大畫，做了一架數(shù)十里長(zhǎng)的屏風(fēng)?！?/p>

如果你以為劉鶚在這里只是寫的千佛山或興國(guó)寺，那就錯(cuò)了。他是借此引出那個(gè)神秘莫測(cè)的蓋世奇觀佛山倒影——“佛山倒影”他接下來(lái)寫道：

正在嘆賞不絕，忽聽一聲漁唱。低頭看去，誰(shuí)知那明湖業(yè)已澄凈得同鏡子一般。那千佛山的倒影映在湖里，顯得明明白白。那樓臺(tái)樹木格外光彩，覺得比上頭的一個(gè)千佛山還要好看，還要清楚……

濟(jì)南南面的千佛山和北面的大明湖相距五六公里，然而海拔不到三百米的千佛山的影子卻能倒映在大明湖中，形成“佛山倒影”的奇觀。自古以來(lái)，這一現(xiàn)象引起了人們的極大興趣，許多游人不遠(yuǎn)千里前來(lái)觀賞。元初，大詩(shī)人元好問作《大明湖泛舟》詩(shī)，其中有詩(shī)句“看山水底山更佳，一堆蒼煙收不起”，真?zhèn)€是寫盡了“佛山倒影”的儀態(tài)和風(fēng)韻。

而千佛山的妙處還不僅僅在此。

真正寫出千佛山的獨(dú)特魅力的，是艾蕪。

他在《游千佛山》一文中這樣說(shuō)，到了千佛山，一開始感覺很平常，不怎么秀麗，不怎么壯偉。但當(dāng)你爬上山去，然后掉回頭來(lái)，陡然望見“盆一樣的大明湖，躺在萬(wàn)家煙火的濟(jì)南城里。如帶的黃河，繞在蒼茫無(wú)際的天野時(shí)”，你的心便會(huì)激動(dòng)起來(lái)，激動(dòng)得無(wú)以復(fù)加……

從美學(xué)的角度說(shuō)，這叫借景：景致不是千佛山本身固有的，但只有在千佛山上能夠更好地看它、欣賞它，任何別的地方都不行，這就無(wú)疑成為千佛山的獨(dú)有資源了：不是我的，全部讓我占有了；不是我的，全部讓我利用了。這正是最高的智慧境界。

還有，秋天是濟(jì)南最美的季節(jié)，登山遠(yuǎn)眺，天高云淡，層林盡染，秋湖一鏡，煙樹萬(wàn)家，黃河帆影，齊煙九點(diǎn)……一切都?xì)v歷在目，還不令人目醉神迷。

（本文節(jié)選自《歷山秋眺：命名的深意與詩(shī)意》）

Although people in Jinan commonly refer to it as Thousand Buddha Mountain， its most glamorous and proud name is Mount Li， or Mount Shun.

The mountain isn’t big， but it’s ancient and elegant. As you ascend the western side of the mountain， the first thing you encounter is the Tanghuai Pavilion. This place was originally the Zeng Gong Shrine， later transformed into the Hu Guo Gong Shrine. Now renamed as Tanghuai Pavilion， the significance seems to have dwindled with each change. Then come the ‘Nine Points of Qi Smoke’， ‘Observing High and Low’， ‘Cloud Path Zen Gate’， ‘Peaks and Turns’ and other pavilions， each name corresponds perfectly to its exquisite scenery. Xing Guo Zen Temple is not large， but it has a certain charm. To the people of Jinan， it gives a feeling similar to the East Gate of Baotu Spring. Though old and small， it possesses an elegant charm that cannot be replaced by any lofty building.

Thousand Buddha Mountain， to the south of Jinan， and Daming Lake， to the north， are separated by a distance of five to six kilometers. Yet， the reflection of Thousand Buddha Mountain， which rises no more than 300 meters above sea level， graces the waters of Daming Lake， creating the wondrous sight known as the “Reflection of Buddha Mountain.” This natural phenomenon has captivated the imagination of countless generations， drawing admirers from afar to behold its splendor. At the dawn of the Yuan Dynasty， the eminent poet Yuan Haowen penned “Boating on Daming Lake，” wherein he wrote， “The mountain in the water seems more lovely still， a heap of mist that cannot be gathered，” capturing the essence and allure of the “Reflection of Buddha Mountain” with poetic grace.