Not Everyone Is Buying Second-Hand不是人人都買二手貨

惠特妮·鮑克

Cameron Bishop grew up thrifting1 because it was what he could afford.

卡梅倫·畢曉普從小買東西都買二手的，因為他只能負擔得起這樣的生活。

Bishop was a prolific upcycler2 in his teens， hacking and refashioning his second-hand wares3 into unique， custom pieces. Once， he came across a band T-shirt he didnt have the money to buy， so he spent hours recreating the logo with fabric markers on a second-hand tee. Other times， he added buttons and patches to spice up his finds.

畢曉普十幾歲時改造升值過很多廢舊物品，將自己的二手衣服改造成獨特的定制款。有一次，他看上一件樂隊T恤但沒錢買，于是就花了幾個小時用布料記號筆在一件二手T恤上復(fù)刻了一個樂隊標志。有時，他還會用紐扣和補丁來讓他淘來的二手衣服更出彩。

Despite his creativity， Bishop， now 31 and living in Minneapolis， says his unique wardrobe was as much a survival tool as a vehicle of self-expression. For Bishop， wearing thrifted garments was a financial necessity， and altering them was a way to take control of his own narrative.

今年31歲、住在明尼阿波利斯的畢曉普說，盡管他很有創(chuàng)意，然而他獨特的衣櫥既是一種生存手段，也是自我表達的載體。對于畢曉普來說，穿二手衣服是因囊中羞澀不得已而為之，而改造它們則是獨樹一幟的一種方式。

“As a kid， I wanted to stick out because I wanted to beat my community to the punch4，” he says. “If I was going to appear different， I wanted to be intentional about looking different.”

“小時候，我總想突顯自己，因為我想比自己社區(qū)里的其他人都前衛(wèi)?！彼f?！叭绻乙@得另類，就會故意穿得與眾不同?！?/p>

But when he started making his own money as an adult， Bishop abandoned the fabric markers. While working as a business consultant， he found himself shopping for a new outfit every time he landed a new client. “It felt like I finally had the ability to appear successful，” he says. “I always bought the outfit that I thought conveyed the message the client wanted me to convey to them.”

但當畢曉普成年后開始自己掙錢時，他放棄了布料記號筆。在擔任商業(yè)顧問期間，他發(fā)現(xiàn)自己每接到一個新客戶就會買一套新衣服。“感覺我終于有能力讓自己看起來就是個成功人士了?！彼f。“在我看來，我買的衣服總是能向客戶傳達他們想讓我傳達給他們的信息?！?/p>

Bishops experience with secondhand clothing as a source of agency， creativity， and shame all at once point to the complex cocktail of reasons that many people still avoid used clothing， despite its growing popularity.

畢曉普覺得二手服裝既給予他能動性和創(chuàng)造力，同時也帶來了羞恥感——他的這種體驗反映出很多人仍對二手服裝避之不及的復(fù)雜而多樣的原因，盡管二手服裝越來越受歡迎。

The resale market has experienced remarkable growth and cultural favor in recent years： According to a report by online second-hand platform ThredUp， the U.S. second-hand market will more than triple in value over the next decade. When TikTok started to take Gen Z by storm， the app was quickly filled with expert Depop5 sellers and “thrift flippers，” creators who upcycle second-hand pieces into more on-trend creations. Even the luxury labels that long sought to keep their goods from being consigned have started to get in on the second-hand action， with brands like Gucci and Alexander McQueen forging partnerships with luxury resellers like The RealReal and Vestiaire Collective， respectively.

近年來，二手市場經(jīng)歷了顯著的增長，日益得到認可：根據(jù)在線二手平臺ThredUp的報告，美國二手市場的價值在未來十年將達到現(xiàn)在的三倍以上。當TikTok開始席卷Z世代時，該應(yīng)用程序很快充斥了專業(yè)的Depop賣家和“倒賣二手物品的人”，他們擅長創(chuàng)造，將二手物品改造成更潮流的單品。連長期以來試圖阻止其商品被寄售的奢侈品牌也開始涉足二手業(yè)務(wù)，比如古馳和亞歷山大·麥昆與the RealReal和Vestiaire Collective這樣的奢侈品轉(zhuǎn)售商建立了合作關(guān)系。

One of the factors driving this growth is the increase in public awareness of fashions negative environmental impact. Buying second-hand keeps clothing out of landfills and， if it replaces shopping for brand-new items， can decrease demand for raw material extraction used to create the fibers spun into fabric.

推動這一增長的因素之一是，大眾更多地意識到時尚產(chǎn)業(yè)對環(huán)境造成了負面影響。購買二手服裝可以讓衣物免于垃圾填埋，而且如果購買二手物品可以代替購買全新物品，提取原材料用于制造織物纖維的需求就可以減少。

Still， barriers to shopping secondhand persist for many people. Some cite the trouble with finding second-hand clothing that fits. Since second-hand stores are stocked with one-offs6， finding a garment thats the right size is part of the challenge for anyone. But its especially tricky for people who dont wear straight sizes.

盡管如此，對于許多人來說，購買二手服裝的障礙仍然存在。有些人稱，很難買到合適尺寸的二手衣服。由于二手商店賣的衣服都是單件單碼，找到合適尺寸的衣服對任何人來說都有點困難。而這對于那些不穿常規(guī)碼的人來說更為棘手。

Its long been noted that the fashion industry fails fat people; the second-hand market is no better. While there are some vintage and second-hand stores that focus on plus-size clothing， like Plus BKLYN and Two Big Blondes， theyre few and far between7.

人們很早就注意到時尚產(chǎn)業(yè)沒有考慮肥胖人群，二手市場也好不到哪兒去。雖然有專賣加大碼服裝的古著店和二手店，例如Plus BKLYN和Two Big Blondes，但這樣的店少之又少。

But even some people who could easily shop second-hand based on their size dont for other reasons.

但是，有些人即使能輕易買到合適尺寸的二手衣服，也會因為其他原因而放棄購買。

Therese Morillo is an accountant in the Bay Area whose favorite place to shop for clothes is Target8. She has never been second-hand shopping in her life. Morillo insists that shes not against second-hand per se—about half of her kids wardrobes consist of items passed down from their cousins—but shes uncomfortable with the idea of wearing clothing from strangers. She says its hard to shake the idea that clothes purchased from thrift shops are “dirty” in a way that cant be eradicated by one cycle in her washing machine. After volunteering for an organization that required her to sort donated clothing， shes never forgotten the feeling of pawing through unwashed donations. But theres also a deeper level to her hesitance.

特蕾澤·莫里洛是灣區(qū)的一名會計師，她最喜歡去塔吉特買衣服，這輩子從來沒有買過二手貨。莫里洛強調(diào)，她并不反對二手物品本身——她孩子衣柜里大約有一半的衣物都是孩子的堂表親傳下來的——但她覺得穿陌生人的衣服會不舒服。她說自己有種想法很難擺脫，認為從二手商店買來的衣服“臟”，不是在洗衣機里洗一遍就能洗干凈的。自從她作為志愿者為一個機構(gòu)分揀捐贈衣物之后，她就怎么都忘不掉翻找未經(jīng)清洗的捐贈衣物的感覺。但她的猶豫還有更深層次的原因。

A first-generation Filipino immigrant who moved to California as a kid， Morillo was raised to avoid thrift shopping. While second-hand shopping is immensely popular in her birth country—ukay-ukay stores， as thrift shops are called， can be found every few blocks in the capital city of Manila—its also not uncommon to view second-hand clothing with suspicion. Theres a common idea in Filipino culture that clothing and jewelry can hold onto the energy or spirit of previous owners. （One Filipina celebritys hack is to spray newly purchased second-hand goods with disinfectant and holy water before wearing.）

莫里洛是第一代菲律賓移民，小時候搬到了加利福尼亞州，從小就被教育不要買二手貨。雖然買二手貨在她的出生國非常受歡迎——在首都馬尼拉，每隔幾個街區(qū)就可以看到“ukay-ukay”（當?shù)嘏f貨店的叫法）——但是人們普遍對二手服裝持懷疑態(tài)度。在菲律賓文化中，人們普遍認為衣物和珠寶會附著前主人的能量或靈魂。（一個菲律賓名人的妙招是在穿戴前給新買來的二手衣物噴灑消毒劑和圣水。）

“It sounds so crazy saying it out loud， but its like the energy and the luck or bad luck of the person could come into my life， especially if they wore the piece every single day，” says Morillo. “Wearing it can somehow rub off9 on you. So unless I know the person， Id be wary.”

“這種說法聽起來很荒唐，但就像這個人的能量和運氣或霉運可能會進入我的生活，尤其是如果他們每天都穿戴著這個物件?！澳锫逭f道?！按┥仙硭蜁阅撤N方式影響你。所以除非我認識那個人，否則我會很謹慎?！?/p>

Not everyones barriers to secondhand shopping are quite so metaphysical. For Bishop， the stigma of shopping second-hand gradually lifted. Bishop began to reflect on his fraught feelings about clothing that wasnt brand-new. He came to see that insecurity was at the heart of his approach to dressing， both as a thrift-savvy teen and then as a new-suit-loving adult.

并非所有人不想買二手貨都是出于如此玄虛的理由。對于畢曉普來說，買二手衣物的羞恥感逐漸消除了。畢曉普開始反思他對于穿非全新衣服的不安情緒。他逐漸意識到，自己著裝態(tài)度的核心是不安全感，無論是那個懂得節(jié)儉的少年，還是那個喜歡新衣服的大人。

Part of what helped him move beyond that was meditating on Leviticus10， a book of ancient laws in both Christian and Jewish scriptures. Bishop understood it as “a book about our relationship with the earth and with each other.” It shifted how Bishop understood his relationship with clothes.

在一定程度上幫助他走出這種心態(tài)的是對《利未記》的深入思考，這是基督教和猶太教都奉為正典的一部古律法書。畢曉普將其理解為“一本關(guān)于我們與地球和我們與他人關(guān)系的書”。它改變了畢曉普對他與衣服關(guān)系的理解。

“I was seeing a greater purpose with a lot of things in my life，” he explains. “I wanted to have a proper relationship with the earth through what I wore.”

“我發(fā)現(xiàn)生活里的很多事物有更偉大的意義?！八忉尩馈！拔蚁胪ㄟ^我的穿著與地球建立一種適當?shù)年P(guān)系。”

This revelation ultimately landed Bishop back where he started： as an avid thrifter， but this time by choice.

這一發(fā)現(xiàn)最終讓畢曉普回到他開始的地方：做一個熱衷二手衣物的消費者，不過現(xiàn)在是出于主動選擇。

（譯者為“《英語世界》杯”翻譯大賽獲獎?wù)撸?/p>

1 thrift購置二手物品。? 2 upcycle升級改造；再生利用。? 3 wares（在市場上或街邊出售的）商品，貨物。? 4 beat sb to the punch 搶先下手；搶在前面。

5 英國二手轉(zhuǎn)售和社交平臺。

6 one-off絕無僅有的事物。? 7 few and far between稀少。? 8美國僅次于沃爾瑪?shù)牡诙罅闶郯儇浖瘓F，全球最大的折扣零售商之一。

9 rub off（品質(zhì)、性格等）感染，影響，傳給。? 10《圣經(jīng)·舊約》的卷書之一，記載了有關(guān)選自利未族的祭司團所須謹守的一切律例。