沃菲爾德風(fēng)土圖記 XX

蔚縣鳳凰臺(tái)北邊緣的任家莊村（北朝南），自右下至左上依次為軍堡、舊村廢墟和新村Bird’s eye view of Renjiazhuang Village on the north edge of Fenghuang Platform of Yu County (viewed from north to south). From the bottom right corner to the top left are the military fortress, the old village’s ruins, and the new village

蔚縣——遺忘的塞上

丁垚

黨晟

譚鐳 譯

李穎春 譯校

Yu County: The Lost FrontierDing Yao

Dang Sheng

Translated by Lui Tam

Proofread by Li Yingchun

中圖分類(lèi)號(hào)：K928.5；TU-88；J42

文獻(xiàn)標(biāo)志碼：E

文章編號(hào)：2095-7289(2020)04-0096-20

DOI：10.19673/j.cnki.ha.2020.04.010

蔚縣位于河北省張家口市的南端，首尾相接的太行與燕山兩大山脈橫亙?cè)谒腿A北平原之間。蔚縣之地最初進(jìn)入漢語(yǔ)的歷史書(shū)寫(xiě)，是作為一個(gè)以畜牧為主，與中原地區(qū)保持著密切關(guān)系的小國(guó)，稱(chēng)作“代國(guó)”。公元前5 世紀(jì)上半葉，代國(guó)被位居其南的趙國(guó)吞并，公元前4 世紀(jì)后半，趙國(guó)在此設(shè)置代郡，公元前3 世紀(jì)，秦滅六國(guó)，將疆土劃分為三十六郡，代郡為其一。后經(jīng)朝代更迭，代郡的范圍屢有變化，直到6 世紀(jì)，它作為北魏帝國(guó)北部邊疆的一部分在戍邊將士的起義戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)中被徹底摧毀。8 世紀(jì)初，荒涼了近兩百年之后，這里迎來(lái)了處于鼎盛時(shí)期的唐王朝的駐軍，地名也從代郡變成了蔚州。直到20 世紀(jì)初，蔚州改為縣，即今天的蔚縣。兩千五百余年里，不論是作為代郡還是蔚州，這片土地長(zhǎng)期處于北方游牧族群和中原王朝之間，常常因南北勢(shì)力的消長(zhǎng)，搖擺于長(zhǎng)城內(nèi)外——北齊長(zhǎng)城（6 世紀(jì)）建在它南邊的山脊上，而趙、秦長(zhǎng)城（公元前4-3世紀(jì)）和明長(zhǎng)城（14 世紀(jì)）則在北邊百余公里之外穿過(guò)——因此站在中原王朝的角度，這里又有一個(gè)詩(shī)意的名字——塞上。

本文提到的地點(diǎn)在蔚縣縣域的位置The location of the sites mentioned in this article within Yu County

籠統(tǒng)地說(shuō)，蔚縣位于 “農(nóng)牧交錯(cuò)地帶”，或是“長(zhǎng)城地帶”，因自然、地理的具體條件和歷史因緣，又有一些自身的特點(diǎn)。目前的中國(guó)學(xué)界，各學(xué)科如歷史學(xué)、社會(huì)學(xué)、人類(lèi)學(xué)等，針對(duì)某一縣域這樣中觀空間尺度上的研究方興未艾，時(shí)間跨度雖互有參差，按材料的豐富程度，又普遍集中在明清兩代（14 世紀(jì)中到20 世紀(jì)初），蔚縣的情況也是如此，學(xué)者們關(guān)注到了它作為明帝國(guó)的北部邊疆而展開(kāi)的村堡建設(shè)運(yùn)動(dòng)和“軍事-民政”雙軌管理體制，作為清帝國(guó)的腹地而呈現(xiàn)的軍民合流和商業(yè)繁榮，今天蔚縣的空間格局，很大程度上仍然是明清時(shí)代塑造的?；仡櫄v史，這種軍事化到非軍事化的結(jié)構(gòu)性轉(zhuǎn)變，其實(shí)是反復(fù)發(fā)生的。這幅宏大畫(huà)卷的早期殘片，如今散落在山水之間，埋藏在耕土之下。我們?cè)谖悼h的工作，最初將考察古建筑（多為明清之物）作為出發(fā)點(diǎn)，也因?yàn)樯砼R其境后無(wú)法對(duì)它壯美的山河和古老的傳統(tǒng)視而不見(jiàn)，而開(kāi)始關(guān)注更廣闊的城鄉(xiāng)空間和更綿長(zhǎng)的歷史時(shí)段。

離開(kāi)喧囂的都市，走在蔚縣空曠的原野，不免感到身處塞上的孤寂，幸而有過(guò)往那些偉大的“旅行者”相伴：趙國(guó)王子（趙襄子）曾“從常山上而臨代”，俯瞰這片志在必得的土地；西漢史家（司馬遷）隨武帝出巡 “自代而還”，搜訪上古久已失落的傳說(shuō)；曹魏黃須將軍（曹彰）躍馬桑干渡口，大破桀驁不馴的烏桓；北魏居官學(xué)者（酈道元）親歷河溪婉曲，尋找遺失的東代故城；唐代高僧（一行）穿越八千里路的日影測(cè)量，蔚州軍鎮(zhèn)為其一站；契丹皇帝（圣宗、道宗）親臨金河名剎，助北國(guó)的佛學(xué)中心與五臺(tái)圣地抗禮；金末真人（丘處機(jī)）西游萬(wàn)里歸來(lái)，設(shè)醮三關(guān)河畔為幸存于亂世的百姓祈福；明代大儒（顧炎武）登上九宮山口外的高丘，診視天下郡國(guó)地形之利病；清季守臣（慶之金）遍訪遺碣考證山川，纂為代蔚最完備的地方史乘。當(dāng)然還有當(dāng)代那些或曾結(jié)伴同行，或暫擦肩而過(guò)的學(xué)人和愛(ài)好者們的記錄和辨證，讓我們得以懷著溫?zé)嶂脑谶@久被遺忘的塞上之地按圖索驥， 重新審視或猝然發(fā)現(xiàn)一個(gè)又一個(gè)驚奇。

本文圖片由中國(guó)建筑、聚落與景觀考古中心提供。

Yu County is located south of Zhangjiakou Municipality, Hebei Province. It connects with the Taihang and Yanshan mountain ranges, which separate it from the North China Plain. The first Chinese historical records of the land of Yu County was related to Dai State, a country whose livelihood depended on pastoral farming and had close ties with the Central Plains. In the first half of the 5th century BC, Dai State was annexed by its southern neighbour Zhao State. In the second half of the 4th century BC, Zhao State established Dai Commandery here. In the 3rd century BC, the Qin Dynasty defeated and united the six states, dividing the territory into 36 commanderies, one of which was Dai Commandery. Throughout the subsequent dynasties, Dai County’s area varied slightly, but its name remained the same until the 6th century AD when the northern border of the Northern Wei Dynasty (386–534 AD) was destroyed entirely by its rebellious border troupes. At the beginning of the 8th century AD, after about two hundred years of the ‘Dark Age’, troupes of the prosperous Tang Dynasty started to be stationed here. The place was named Yuzhou (Yu Prefecture), which was used until the early 20th century when the County System replaced the Prefecture System, and Yuzhou became Yuxian (Yu County). Whether as a commandery or a prefecture, it had always been in a tug of war between the northern nomads and the Central Plains dynasties. The Great Walls built in the Northern Qi Dynasty (550–577 AD) goes along the border between the mountain and the plain just south of Yu County, while those from Zhao State and Qin Dynasty (3rd–4th century BC) and Ming Dynasty (14th century) are located about 100 km north of the county. People in the central dynasties also gave this place a poetic name— Sai Shang (On the Frontier).

In general, Yu County is in an agro-pastoral zone, also called ‘the Great-Wall zone’. It bears some distinctive characteristics due to specific natural, geographical, and historical contexts. At present, research from Chinese scholarships that focuses on a particular county on a mesoscale in disciplines such as history, sociology, and anthropology has only just started to emerge. Although covering various periods, most of the materials are concentrated on the Ming and Qing dynasties (mid-14th century to early 20th century), as is Yu County’s case. Scholars have noted that it was part of the mass construction of village fortresses along the empire’s northern border in the Ming Dynasty and was governed under the military–civic double administrative system. They have also addressed various changes as the Qing Dynasty’s hinterland during the merge of the military and civilian population. The layout of today’s Yu County is mostly the result of Ming and Qing dynasties’ construction. Looking back, such structural change of demilitarisation was indeed a recurring phenomenon throughout history. The early fragments of the grand scroll of history now scatter among the mountains and rivers, buried underneath the agricultural fields. Despite the initial focus on surveying its architectural heritage (mostly from the Ming and Qing dynasties), our work in Yu County was redirected towards its grandiose landscape and graceful arts after we arrived. We were compelled to expand our horizon to the entirety of its urban and rural space, covering elements such as a single spring, a pine tree, an ancient tomb, or a ruined stele.

Although one may feel an inevitable sense of solitude on the frontier while walking among the vast open fields, one is fortunate to have those great travellers from the past as company. Zhao Xiangzi (?–425 BC), the Zhao State prince, standing on top of the Chang Mountain, beheld the sight of this aspired land. Historian Sima Qian (145 BC–?) of the Western Han Dynasty (202 BC–ca. 8 AD) came to this land accompanying Emperor Wu (156–87 BC) in search of lost legends from the past. General Cao Zhang (189–223 AD) of the Wei Dynasty (220–266 AD) defeated the arrogant Wuhuan People at the Sanggan River’s crossing. The travelling scholar Li Daoyuan (ca. 466–527 AD) from the Northern Wei Dynasty followed the winding creeks searching for the forgotten East Dai City. The Buddhist monk astronomer Yixing (683–727 AD) from Tang Dynasty who travelled 8,000 miles to measure the sun’s shadow lengths also passed by the military town of Yu Prefecture. The Khitan Emperors Shengzong (972–1031 AD) and Daozong (1032–1101) visited the famous Jinhe Temple in person supporting the Buddhist centre in the North competing with the sacred land in Wutai Mountain. The late-Jin-Dynasty Daoist priest Qiu Chuji (1148–1227) came to the riverbank of Sanguan River to pray for the survivors of wars after his journey to the West. The Ming scholar Gu Yanwu (1613–1682) inspected the counties’ pros and cons from the top of a high mount outside of the Jiugong Mountain Pass. The Qing Dynasty official Qing Zhijin (1815–1877) scoured the ruins, mountains, and valleys of Yu County and wrote the most comprehensive record of its local history. There are also records and debates from contemporary scholars, volunteers, or amateurs who might have accompanied or passed by each other. They have provided valuable traces for us, swelled by our earnest interest in this lost frontier, to re-inspect and encounter serendipitous discoveries.

Photo by Archaeology Center for Architecture, Settlement and Landscape.

作者簡(jiǎn)介：丁垚，天津大學(xué)建筑學(xué)院（天津300072）副教授

黨晟，九州大學(xué)人間環(huán)境學(xué)府（福岡 8190395）學(xué)術(shù)協(xié)力研究員

收稿日期：2020-10-05

Biography:Ding Yao, Associate Professor at the School of Architecture, Tianjin University (Tianjin 300072)

Da ng Sheng, Aca d em ic Co op e r at ive Researcher at the Graduate School of Human-Environment Studies, Kyushu University (Fukuoka 8190395)

Received date:5 October, 2020

遠(yuǎn)眺冬季的小五臺(tái)山（北朝南）A distant view of the Minor Wutai Mountain in the winter (viewed from north to south)

蔚縣縣域南半是山區(qū)，北半是盆地，盆地中大河自西向東流過(guò)，縣城就坐落在南岸。地質(zhì)年代標(biāo)尺下，山地的隆起是極迅速的，在盆地邊緣立起一道屏障，這巖石之潮，到東端掀起了數(shù)朵浪花，便是小五臺(tái)山，它的最高峰海拔達(dá)2 882 m，山頂積雪春秋不化。遼代以前，它被稱(chēng)作 “倒喇山”，最早被北魏旅行家酈道元記錄下來(lái)。“倒喇”是中國(guó)北部尤其是燕山南北地區(qū)古老而獨(dú)特的山水名，上至古代傳說(shuō)中黃帝定都的“涿鹿（亦作濁鹿、獨(dú)鹿）之阿”，下至依然矗立在燕山南麓的唐遼巨剎“獨(dú)樂(lè)寺”，讀音都很接近。唐代時(shí)，這里傳說(shuō)是普賢菩薩示現(xiàn)的圣山，吸引著巡禮五臺(tái)山的僧俗前來(lái)，在10 到12 世紀(jì)多國(guó)并存于東亞的時(shí)代，它作為遼國(guó)的建立者契丹人著力營(yíng)造的佛學(xué)中心，與北宋境內(nèi)的五臺(tái)山相比肩而亦稱(chēng)五臺(tái)，鼎盛時(shí)期有“金河十寺”錯(cuò)落其間。宋遼的對(duì)抗早已結(jié)束，小五臺(tái)的名號(hào)卻沿用至今。這片山巒無(wú)疑是蔚縣乃至整個(gè)塞上地區(qū)地質(zhì)和文化景觀上的雙重地標(biāo)。

The southern part of today’s Yu County is mountainous, and the northern part is a basin. A large river runs across the basin. According to the geological chronology, the bulging of the mountains was rapid, setting up a natural screen on the edge of the basin. This wave of rocks has five tips on the east end, which is the Minor Wutai Mountain, with its highest peak reaching 2,882 m above the sea, snow-capped even during springs and autumns. Before the Liao Dynasty (916–1125 AD), it was called Daola Mountain, according to the records of the Northern Wei Dynasty travelling scholar Li Daoyuan. Daola is an ancient and unique place name in Northern China, especially in the Yan Mountain areas. It could be traced as far back as the legendary Yellow Emperor’s capital ‘Zhuolu (Dulu) city’, and as recent as the large Dule Temple from the Tang and Liao dynasties, both of which have a similar pronunciation to Daola. Legends from the Tang Dynasty stated that this is the sacred mountain where Samantabhadra revealed his true self. During the 10th–12th centuries when multiple nations coexisted in East Asia, 10 temples were said to scatter along the Jin River. The Khitans endeavoured to establish it as a centre for promoting Buddhism, comparable to the Wutai Mountain in the Han-ruled Northern Song territory and therefore, it also gained the name of Wutai. The contention between the Song and Liao dynasties has long finished, but Minor Wutai’s name has remained till today. In this sense, the Minor Wutai Mountain is undoubtedly both a geological and a cultural landmark of Yu County, and even the entire Saishang area.

俯瞰夏季的壺流河北流段（西南朝東北）Bird’s eye view of Huliu River flowing northward in the summer (viewed from southwest to northeast)

縣域北部的盆地群山環(huán)繞，壺流河從其西端發(fā)源，向東沿著大地的斷層奔流，又向北切穿了一片低山，匯入桑干河。酈道元的時(shí)代，這條河名叫“祁夷”，隋唐以后，則以北方頗常見(jiàn)的水名“葫蘆”見(jiàn)稱(chēng)，也就是今天的“壺流”。僅就蔚縣盆地來(lái)說(shuō)，壺流河分開(kāi)的南北兩岸，正是局部的農(nóng)牧分界線：北岸地層抬升，溪澗下切，無(wú)灌溉之利，惟天雨是賴(lài)，適合放牧；南岸地層下沉，南山匯水在地表形成一連串的泉眼，澆灌之余，更可改善土質(zhì)，利于農(nóng)耕。因此新石器時(shí)代以后的早期定居遺跡，多分布在南岸。壺流河與桑干河交匯的渡口，正是三國(guó)時(shí)代曹彰曾經(jīng)征伐烏桓之處，東漢、曹魏帝國(guó)境內(nèi)的代郡北部之所以成為像烏桓這樣的游牧民族生息的家園，除了自然條件的適宜，更重要的是彼時(shí)朝廷主動(dòng)吸納游牧人群內(nèi)遷，可以緩解邊疆地區(qū)的軍事壓力。

The basin in the northern part of Yu County is surrounded by mountains. Huliu River originates from its western end and runs eastward along the earth’s fault, cutting through the lower hills in the northeast before joining Sanggan River. During Li Daoyuan’s time, this river was named Qiyi. After Sui and Tang dynasties, it became ‘Hulu’, a typical river name in the north, which then became today’s Huliu. Huliu River separates the Yu County Basin into two halves, which coincides with the separation of agriculture and pastoral farming. The raised land on the north bank is crisscrossed by creeks and not suitable for irrigation. The sunken south bank collects the water coming from the southern mountains and creates a series of springs. It is beneficial for irrigation and helps improve the quality of the earth for agricultural activities. Therefore, most of the traces of settlements since the Neolithic period are found on the south bank. The ferry crossing at the confluence between the two rivers was where Cao Zhang defeated the Wuhuan people. Besides the suitable natural environment, the northern part of Dai County during the Eastern Han and Wei Dynasties became the home of nomadic tribes such as Wuhuan because the central government allowed the nomadic peoples who submitted to move inwards, relieving some of the military pressure along the border.

秋天的鳳凰臺(tái)和它西邊緣的西大坪村軍堡（西南朝東北）The Fenghuang Platform in the autumn and the military fortress of Xidaping Village on its west edge (viewed from southwest to northeast)

壺流河在北流的一段與盆地東端發(fā)源的定安河交匯，兩河夾出一片三角形臺(tái)地，兀自高出河灘幾十米。斷崖在陽(yáng)光下呈現(xiàn)出白色和灰綠色的層帶——這是湖相沉積物的特征，是曾經(jīng)盤(pán)踞盆地中央的古代大湖的痕跡——臺(tái)頂平曠，農(nóng)民耕作依靠的只有風(fēng)積在湖床上的薄薄一層黃土。但這臺(tái)地恰好坐落在盆地內(nèi)四方交通的十字路口，歷來(lái)為兵家所必爭(zhēng)。完成吞并代國(guó)功業(yè)的趙襄子死后，其子趙桓子曾自立于代。按酈道元的記載，臺(tái)地最初的名字，正是“桓都山”——顧名思義，即趙桓子所都之山?；付忌皆诿髑鍟r(shí)俗稱(chēng)“四十里坡”或“鳳凰臺(tái)”，為抵御蒙古部落的侵襲，明帝國(guó)的軍人們沿臺(tái)地邊緣建起了七座城堡，或大或小，或方或圓，至今仍靜靜守衛(wèi)、凝望著往來(lái)行旅。

The north-running part of Huliu River converges with Ding’an River, which originates from the basin’s east end. The two rivers carve out a triangular plateau, a few dozen metres higher than the riverbanks. The cliff appears white and grey-green under the sun, which are characteristics of fine lake sediments. The top of the plateau is flat and open. There is only a thin layer of aeolian yellow earth on top of the previous lakebed that can grow crops. This platform, however, has been a strategic crossroad guarding transportation of all directions within the basin. It had always been a crucial battleground in ancient times. After the death of Zhao Xiangzi, who achieved to annex Dai State, his son Zhao Huanzi claimed his throne as the king of Dai State. According to Li Daoyuan’s records, the earliest name for this plateau was indeed Huandushan—literally the mount where Zhao Huanzi established as his state’s capital. Huandushan was called the Sishili (40-lilong) Slope or Fenghuangtai (Platform of the Phoenix). In the Ming Dynasty, seven fortresses were set up by soldiers along the plateau’s edge to defend the central kingdom from Mongolia’s invasion. They are of various sizes, some square and others round. Nowadays, they are still standing guard in silence, gazing at passing travellers.

冬季的三關(guān)河畔（西北朝東南）Sanguan River in the winter (viewed from northwest to southeast)

鳳凰臺(tái)西南面的斷崖下，有數(shù)股溪流匯集成一條小河，仿佛白練千匹，一時(shí)舞亂。當(dāng)中靠西的一股，稱(chēng)作三關(guān)河?！叭P(guān)”之名得自水畔的村落，這不起眼的小村，堡墻環(huán)繞，居高臨下，也有幾分神氣。小河得益于山水的補(bǔ)給，又有地?zé)岬募訙?，?jīng)冬不凍，藻類(lèi)常青，無(wú)怪這里從舊石器晚期開(kāi)始，就已是人類(lèi)的樂(lè)園。東岸新石器時(shí)代的“三關(guān)遺址”蜚聲考古學(xué)界——上古時(shí)代，三關(guān)河畔就是各路考古學(xué)文化你方唱罷我登場(chǎng)的“三岔口”了。像三關(guān)河這樣溫婉的溪流在盆地南部并不鮮見(jiàn)，她們比起“沙寒水勁”的壺流河更稱(chēng)得上是蔚縣的“母親河”。“三關(guān)”在12 世紀(jì)時(shí)本作“三館”，大概是臨著大道的館驛，還曾邀得長(zhǎng)春真人丘處機(jī)親登醮壇為民眾祈福。此后或許因?yàn)轶A道的北移，這里漸趨蕭索，村名的原意也被忘卻了。

At the foot of the Fenghuang Platform’s southwestern cliff, several creeks converge into a small river, with waves raging like thousands of pieces of dancing white silk. The west branch is called Sanguan River. The river was named after a village by the river. Although small and unremarkable, this village is surrounded by fortress walls and stands over its surroundings, projecting a sense of pride. The small river is fed by the water sources from the mountains and heated by terrestrial heat. Therefore, it does not freeze throughout the year and is home to evergreen water plants. It is then unsurprising that it has been a dreamland for human settlements since the late Palaeolithic period. The Neolithic Sanguan Archaeological Site on the east bank is a remarkable archaeological discovery. Indeed, since ancient times, this area has been the crossroads of various ancient cultures which flourished one after another. Gentle creeks like Sanguan River are common on the south bank of Huliu River. They deserve to be called the ‘mother rivers’ of Yu County more than the cold and raging Huliu river. Sanguān (three fortresses) used to be Sanguǎn (three taverns) in the 12th century, possibly referring to the taverns along the main road. The renowned Taoist priest Qiu Chuji was even believed to have been invited to perform ceremonies to bless the people here. Perhaps due to the subsequent move of the main road to the north, this area went into decline. The origin of the village’s name was also forgotten.

俯瞰代王城遺址（西朝東），右上角山谷即九宮口Bird’s eye view of the Daiwangcheng ruins. The valley at right top is Jiugongkou (viewed from west to east)

在“三關(guān)遺址”最上層留下青銅時(shí)代（商代）的農(nóng)耕遺存以后，蔚縣盆地開(kāi)始被半游牧人群“戎狄”支配，此間考古發(fā)掘不見(jiàn)房舍，惟有墓葬，直到趙國(guó)勢(shì)力北擴(kuò)，帶著先進(jìn)的鐵器農(nóng)具和耕牛殖民于斯，跨時(shí)代的雄偉城池如同從天而降——這座橢圓形的“代王城”周長(zhǎng)9.8 km，面積7.3 km2，設(shè)城門(mén)9 座——屹立在通往華北平原的一處山口（九宮口峪）之外，震懾著被征服的代人和一山之隔的敵國(guó)（中山國(guó)）。此后，這里作為統(tǒng)一帝國(guó)的代縣縣治，沿用至5 世紀(jì)方歸于沉寂。今天的代王城城垣里泉流依舊，只是雄偉的宮室化作了農(nóng)田里俯仰即是的殘磚斷瓦。

Above the top stratum of the Bronze Age (Shang Dynasty) sediments from agricultural activities at the Sanguan Archaeological Site, no trace of houses but tombs have been discovered, because the Yu County Basin was occupied by a semi-nomadic tribe Rongdi at the time. Only upon the expansion of the Zhao Kingdom towards the north, bringing advanced iron agricultural tools and cattle to colonise the area, grand cities suddenly appeared as if they were descended from heaven. This ancient oval-shape city had a circumference of 9.8 km and occupied an area of 7.3 km2. There were nine city gates standing tall and proud at a mountain pass towards the North China Plain, demonstrating formidability to the conquered Dai people and the enemy Zhongshan State across the mountain. Later, as the Dai County in a unified empire, it was occupied until the 5th century AD before it passed its heyday. Nowadays, only the two bold calligraphic characters ‘Ancient Dai’ on the fortress gate in Dai City and the old bricks and tiles scattered around the cornfields can testify its former glory.

小五臺(tái)山映襯下，佘家堡漢墓群三座封土一字排開(kāi)（西北朝東南）Three Han Dynasty tombs of Shejiabu Village line up against the backdrop of the Minor Wutai Mountain (viewed from northwest to southeast)

趙國(guó)的開(kāi)拓只是序曲，蔚縣盆地的經(jīng)濟(jì)社會(huì)發(fā)展在兩漢達(dá)到了第一個(gè)高潮，數(shù)百年間積聚的物質(zhì)財(cái)富和流變的生活形態(tài)集中體現(xiàn)在墓葬中。高大的漢墓封土三五成群地分布在蔚縣田間，長(zhǎng)久以來(lái)都是當(dāng)?shù)卮蟮鼐坝^的一部分，被淳樸農(nóng)人打趣為“謊糧堆”（意為假的糧食堆）。它們中出土的文物，是蔚縣博物館最引人注目的珍藏。西漢在塞上之地的經(jīng)營(yíng)軍事化意味較濃，權(quán)勢(shì)之家集中在城池；東漢則更多是莊園經(jīng)濟(jì)主導(dǎo)，豪富之族分散在鄉(xiāng)間，這一點(diǎn)從兩漢墓葬的空間分布中亦可得知：西漢墓集中在代王城周邊，東漢墓零星見(jiàn)于河流兩岸。

The development of this region during the Zhao State era was only a prelude. Agriculture in the Yu County Basin reached its first peak of development during the two Han Dynasties. The material wealth and evolution of lifestyles accumulated over several centuries are demonstrated intensely in burials. The towering mounts of Han tombs distribute in groups among the fields of Yu County, constituting part the area’s landscape. Farmers playfully call them ‘Huangliang Mounts (Pseudo Grain Mounts)’. The finds from these tombs are also the most impressive collections of the local museum. In the Western Han Dynasty, the military had a significant role in Yu County’s (then Dai Commandery’s) management, and therefore, families with high political powers congregated in the city. While in the Eastern Han Dynasty, the economy was led by the manors. Affluent families were spread out in rural areas. This part of the history is demonstrated by the Han tombs’ spatial arrangement: the ones from the Western Han Dynasty surround the Dai City while those from the Eastern Han Dynasty scatter along the river.

北綾羅村的堡門(mén)（東朝西）The gate of Beilingluo Village (viewed from east to west)

高允生活的4-5 世紀(jì)，仍是令人作世事無(wú)常，禍福相倚之嘆的年代，匈奴、氐、鮮卑等族走馬燈似的政權(quán)輪替和相互攻伐，令代郡的財(cái)富和輝煌夷為灰燼，代王城高峻的城墻也無(wú)法保護(hù)它的居民免于擄掠與遷徙。4 世紀(jì)末，鮮卑拓跋氏建立的北魏擊敗了慕容氏的后燕，強(qiáng)制遷移被俘的各色人口和手工業(yè)者約五十萬(wàn)人充實(shí)首都平城（今大同）周邊的京畿地區(qū)（包括今天的蔚縣），其中熟練于紡織的人口被編為“綾羅戶(hù)”。多虧了酈道元的記錄，我們知道石門(mén)關(guān)東北，曾有一片小湖叫做“綾羅澤”，或許正得名于“綾羅戶(hù)”的村落。今天，“綾羅”的名字屬于四個(gè)堡墻環(huán)繞的村莊，北綾羅堡那高大的堡門(mén)所矗立的位置，大概離那片已經(jīng)消失的美麗湖泊不遠(yuǎn)吧。

Between the 4th and 5th centuries AD during Gao Yun’s lifetime, it was an unpredictable and turbulent period. The ‘barbarian tribes’ such as the Xiongnu People, the Di People and the Xianbei People, were fighting against each other and took the ruling power one after another. The previous wealth and glory of Dai Commandery were torched to ash. Even the tall city wall of Dai City could not protect its residents from being looted or displaced. At the end of the 4th century AD, the Northern West Dynasty, founded by the Tabgach tribe of the Xianbei People, defeated the Murong Family’s Later Yan Dynasty (384–407 or 409 AD). Approximately 500,000 captured people from various communities, including many craftsmen, were forced to move towards the Jingji area surrounding the capital Ping City (nowadays Datong). Those experienced in the textile making were labelled ‘Lingluo Hu’ (households of silk and satin). Thanks to Li Daoyuan’s records, we now know that there used to be a small lake named Lingluo Lake to the northeast of the Stone Gate Pass. Lingluo is also the name of four nearby walled villages today. The grand and towering fortress gate of the North Lingluo Fortress village is probably not far from the lost beautiful lake.

俯瞰北綾羅新村和“寡婦城”遺址（西朝東）Bird’s eye view of the new Beilingluo Village and the ‘Widow City’ archaeological site. (viewed from west to east)

隨著北魏最終在北方的混戰(zhàn)中勝出，秩序被重新建立起來(lái)，商業(yè)活動(dòng)也隨之復(fù)興，在當(dāng)時(shí)的商人群體里，來(lái)自中亞的粟特人是主角。北綾羅村東有一座方形的古城，俗名“寡婦城”。但由寡婦居住的傳說(shuō)，并不能使人信服。考諸史籍，我們認(rèn)為“寡婦”實(shí)際上是“賈胡”的諧音，“賈胡”指的正是做生意的西域人。作為連通首都平城和被征服的華北平原之間主要通道上的一站，石門(mén)峪外的這座古城曾是一處駱馬嘶鳴的商品集散地亦未可知。

As the Northern Wei Dynasty won the chaotic war in the north, an order was reinstated in the area, and commercial activities were revived. Among the community of merchants of the time, the Sogdians from Central Asia played a significant role. To the east of the North Lingluo Village, there is a square ancient city known as the ‘Widow City’. However, the legend that it was occupied by widows is not convincing. According to historical records, we suggest that ‘widow’ (guafu) could be a euphony ofguhu, which was a term for merchants from Central Asia. As a crucial stop on the route between the Capital Pingcheng (today’s Datong) and the North China Plain’s conquered land, this ancient city outside of the Shimen Valley was undoubtedly a bustling trading hub.

北魏在平城的經(jīng)營(yíng)接近百年（398-494），遷都洛陽(yáng)以后，留守舊都的軍人生活日漸困頓。他們?cè)? 世紀(jì)上半葉發(fā)動(dòng)“六鎮(zhèn)起義”（524），迫使北魏朝廷將塞北的人口遷移到內(nèi)地，代郡（時(shí)稱(chēng)東代郡，以示在平城以東）被廢棄，蔚縣盆地及其以北從此進(jìn)入了“無(wú)政府狀態(tài)”。繼北魏、東魏而起的北齊幾乎放棄了對(duì)這里的直接統(tǒng)治，而沿盆地南緣的山脊筑起了一道石砌的長(zhǎng)城，這條收縮的防線，也曾是漢帝國(guó)對(duì)匈奴處于劣勢(shì)時(shí)所依憑的，也只有在這種情況下，蔚縣才是真正的“塞上”。經(jīng)過(guò)千五百年的風(fēng)吹日曬，這段長(zhǎng)城已經(jīng)殘缺不全，但憑其疊石的銳利輪廓，還可以輕易地與夯土的秦漢長(zhǎng)城和部分包磚的明長(zhǎng)城區(qū)別開(kāi)來(lái)。

The Northern Wei Dynasty managed Pingcheng as its capital for almost a century (398–494 AD). After the capital was moved to Luoyang, the soldiers left to guard the old capital were neglected. They staged the Liuzhen (Six-Garrison) Rebellion in the first half of the 6th century AD, forcing the Northern Wei Dynasty to move its population from north of its border into its mainland. The (East) Dai County was abandoned, and the Yu County Basin and the area to its north went into an anarchic state. Following the Northern and Eastern Wei Dynasties, the Northern Qi Dynasty gave up its direct rule of this area and built a stone Great Wall along the mountain ridge at the basin’s southern edge. This contracted line of defence was also previously used by the Han Dynasty when it was at a disadvantage to the Xiongnu People. Indeed, only during these times was Yu County truly a ‘land of the frontier’. After 500 years’ exposure to the natural elements, this Great Wall is in remnants. Nevertheless, its sharp contour formed by stacked stones distinguishes it easily with the rammed earth Great Walls of the Qin and Han Dynasties and the Ming Dynasty one partially cladded with bricks.

九宮口峪附近的北齊長(zhǎng)城The Northern Qi Dynasty Great Wall near the Jiugongkou Pass

俯瞰曾作為橫野軍城的蔚縣城（南朝北）Bird’s eye view of the town of Yu County that was once the Hengye military town (viewed from south to north)

時(shí)間來(lái)到8 世紀(jì)上半葉，正處于鼎盛時(shí)期的唐帝國(guó)越過(guò)北齊長(zhǎng)城的藩籬，加強(qiáng)了對(duì)蔚縣盆地及其以北地區(qū)的控制，屯駐的軍卒和歸降的北人各安其業(yè)，和睦相處。今天的蔚縣縣城，位于“代王城”西南約8 km，最初是由一支番號(hào)為“橫野”的軍隊(duì)所建，縣城附近出土墓志銘的唐墓，大多屬于橫野軍的軍官和家屬。據(jù)記載，橫野軍城有內(nèi)外兩層城墻，后來(lái)在內(nèi)城（子城）之南增置了分管民政的縣衙，就是日后“蔚州”的雛形。唐代蔚州的再開(kāi)發(fā)無(wú)疑是來(lái)自中原的軍事力量主導(dǎo)的，在文化上卻充滿(mǎn)了異域風(fēng)情，這從墓葬中出土的一批極具中亞風(fēng)格的陶瓶就可看出。作為唐帝國(guó)北部重鎮(zhèn)，橫野軍也成了高僧一行所組織的天文測(cè)量的一站。

In the first half of the 8th century AD, the Tang Dynasty at its heyday was proactively crossing the Northern Qi Dynasty Great Wall to enhance its control on the Yu County Basin and the area to its north. The stationing soldiers and the submitted northern folks were living in harmony. About 8 km southwest of the Dai City’s ruins, today’s Yu County was initially constructed by an army named Hengye. According to historical records, there were two circles of city walls around Hengye. A county office for civic affairs was added south of the inner city, forming the initial layout of Yuzhou (Yu Prefecture). The Tang Dynasty Yu Prefecture’s revival was undoubtedly led by the military power from the Central Plains. Its culture, however, was infused with exotic characteristics, evidenced by thehuping(foreign vases), the Central Asian style vessels for storing the souls of the deceased, found in the tombs of this era. As a strategic northern border town of the Tang Empire, the Hengye Military City naturally became one of the stops in Monk Yixing’s astronomical survey journey.

定安縣村村口的燈山樓（東南朝西北）The Dengshan Tower at the gate of Ding’anxian Village (viewed from southeast to northwest)

唐代是敘利亞、波斯、印度各種宗教、教派涌入東亞的高峰，隨著中唐以后朝廷對(duì)外來(lái)宗教的打擊和西域通道的阻塞，許多宗教儀軌下沉轉(zhuǎn)化為民俗，蔚州社會(huì)基本重建于唐，這一點(diǎn)較內(nèi)地更加明顯。例如上元節(jié)觀燈，蔚縣還保留著與敦煌壁畫(huà)中相似的形式——將成排的油燈擺放為若干層，狀如燈山。為此特別建造的“燈山樓”，面闊進(jìn)深只一間，豎直向高聳，擺放燈盞的梯子倚靠其中，側(cè)壁掏出腳窩以便上下，屋頂設(shè)“氣樓”排出熱氣。除了敬拜燈山祈福，上元節(jié)那天還會(huì)有童子扮演的“燈官”游行娛眾。圖中的燈山樓豎立在鳳凰臺(tái)下一座遼代縣城遺址旁的村落中，可以說(shuō)是晚唐以來(lái)本地民間生活的孑遺。

Tang Dynasty was the prime time when religions from Syria, Persia, and India were introduced into East Asia. After the imperial court suppressed religions and created a blockade along the passages to the West from the mid-Tang Dynasty, many religious rituals were consolidated and transformed as folk customs. Since the community of Yuzhou was reconfigured in the Tang Dynasty, this phenomenon was more apparent than the mainland. For example, the ceremony of light observation at the Lantern Festival is still practised in a similar way as seen on the Dunhuang murals—oil lamps are stacked in layers, forming a mountain of lights. A Dengshan Tower was built for this purpose, a tall building with only one bay’s width and depth. The ladder for putting up the lamps rests in the middle, and putlog holes were placed on the sidewalls for climbing. Aqilou(air tower) is set on the roof to exhaust the heat. Besides praying to the lamp mountain for blessing, there is also a parade of children dressed as the ‘officials of light’ on the day of the Lantern Festival. The Dengshan Tower in figure 13 is in a village next to the archaeological site of a Liao Dynasty town at the foot of the Fenghuang Platform, a historical trace of the local everyday life since the late Tang Dynasty.

蔚縣城內(nèi)的南安寺塔（西朝東）The Pagoda of Nan’an Temple inside the town of Yu County (viewed from west to east)

唐王朝覆滅以后，經(jīng)過(guò)來(lái)自西北的沙陀人、東北的契丹人、本土藩鎮(zhèn)漢人三方的角力，包括蔚州在內(nèi)，燕云地區(qū)的十六個(gè)州最終被契丹人收入大遼版圖。遼在很大程度上是唐文化的繼承者，這種繼承突出表現(xiàn)在佛教和藝術(shù)上，小五臺(tái)山上的“金河十寺”，在遼代達(dá)到極盛，學(xué)術(shù)造詣極高的《顯密圓通成佛心要集》正由道?法師在金河寺著成。哲學(xué)的圓融歸一也推動(dòng)了藝術(shù)的極致綻放，且看那矗立在蔚州城里的南安寺塔吧！

After the Tang Dynasty’s doom, the Shatuo people from the northwest, the Khitan people from the northeast, and the Han people from the military towns clashed into chaos. 16 prefectures in the Neiyanyun area, including Yuzhou, were eventually included in the Liao Empire map by the Khitans. The Liao Dynasty largely inherited the Tang culture, which manifested in its promotion of Buddhism. The 10 temples of Jin River on the Minor Wutai Mountain were at their prime times during the Liao Dynasty. The advanced Buddhist sutraXianmi Yuantong Chengfo Xinyao Ji(Collection of the perfect and complete Buddha’s mind essentials according to the manifest and esoteric Buddhist traditions) was authored by Monk Daochen at Jinhe Temple. The philosophical accomplishment also inspired the blooming prosperity of arts. Just look at the towering Pagoda of Nan'an Temple inside the town of Yu County!

俯瞰卜北堡（東南朝西北）Bird’s eye view of Bobeibu Village (viewed from northwest to southeast)

從唐代屯田發(fā)展起來(lái)的村落，到遼金時(shí)代已經(jīng)完全失去了軍事色彩。卜家莊，古稱(chēng)薄家村，位于蔚縣城西不遠(yuǎn)，后分化為為南北兩村，各自坐落在一條干涸沖溝的兩岸臺(tái)地上，這條沖溝向東延伸匯入壺流河，曾經(jīng)橫跨河上的木橋（薄莊橋）是出城朝西北方向前往大同所必經(jīng)的，因此夾在兩村之間，已被淤泥掩埋的大路享有“燕云古道”的美譽(yù)，這或許也是薄家村在金代載入正史（《金史 · 地理志》）的原因。北村今稱(chēng)“卜北堡”，平面隨形就勢(shì)而呈魚(yú)形，這樣自由的格局可能是遼金時(shí)代當(dāng)?shù)卮迓涞牡湫汀?/p>

Villages developed due to the Tuntian System during the Tang Dynasty lost their military characteristics during the Liao and Jin dynasties. The Bujiazhuang Village, formerly called Bojia Village, is located not for west of the Yu County’s township. It is divided into the north and south villages, setting on the two banks separated by a dry riverbed. This river used to extend east and flow into Huliu River. The wooden Bozhuang Bridge that used to sit across the river was a necessary path from Yu County to Datong. The road that went between the two villages, now buried under silt, was once called the Yanyun Ancient Path. It is possibly why Bojia Village was recorded in the Jin Dynasty’s official history (History of Jin Dynasty – Geography). The north village is now called Pubei Fortress. Its layout follows the terrain and is shaped like a fish. Such a free form could be a typical feature of the local villages during the Liao and Jin dynasties.

石家莊堡堡門(mén)和遠(yuǎn)端的真武廟（南向北）The gate of Shijiazhuangbu Village and the Zhenwu Temple at the far end (viewed from south to north)

14 世紀(jì)下半葉正值明初，蔚州社會(huì)經(jīng)歷了又一次重建，部分居民被遷走，為軍人和新移民騰出空間。面對(duì)來(lái)自北方蒙古部落的威脅，卜北堡也建起了環(huán)繞村落的堡墻。到16世紀(jì)的明代中期，或許受到軍事化城堡的影響，蔚縣開(kāi)始流行一種兵營(yíng)式，強(qiáng)調(diào)中軸對(duì)稱(chēng)的村堡平面。位于蔚縣城東6.3 km 的石家莊堡建于1520 年，是較早的一個(gè)例子。從它的堡門(mén)外向里望去，整條中軸線一覽無(wú)余，最北端的高臺(tái)下并不開(kāi)門(mén)，而是托起天宮般的真武廟。

The second half of the 14th century was the beginning of the Ming Dynasty. The society of Yu Prefecture experienced another reshuffling. Some of the residents were moved out to provide land for the military and new immigrants. Confronted by the threat of the Mongolian tribes in the north, the Bubeibao village erected an enclosing fortress wall. Since the 16th century (mid-Ming Dynasty), perhaps under the influence of the military fortresses, a symmetric layout that reflected the form of a military camp became common among the village fortresses in Yu County. The Shijiazhuang Fortress, 6.3 km east of Yu County’s township and built in 1520, is one of the earliest examples. Looking in from outside of its fortress gate, one can see through its central axis. There is no gate under the high platform at the north end of the axis. As the base of the Zhenwu Temple, the platform sets off the temple like a heavenly palace.

西戶(hù)莊堡真武廟壁畫(huà)（南朝北）The murals of Zhenwu Temple in Xihuzhuangbu Village (viewed from south to north)

就像中國(guó)北方很多村落一樣，蔚縣每一個(gè)村堡內(nèi)外都點(diǎn)綴著各式各樣的廟宇，除了佛寺和道觀，還有很多由和尚或者道士代為打理，甚至無(wú)人看管的小廟，比如負(fù)責(zé)風(fēng)調(diào)雨順的龍王廟、負(fù)責(zé)子孫滿(mǎn)堂的奶奶廟、負(fù)責(zé)安然歸西的五道廟、負(fù)責(zé)平安富貴的關(guān)帝廟、負(fù)責(zé)牲畜滋生的馬王廟、負(fù)責(zé)驅(qū)除蝗群的梓潼廟、負(fù)責(zé)考試中榜（意味著官運(yùn)）的文昌廟等等。最具本地特色的，當(dāng)數(shù)鎮(zhèn)護(hù)北方的真武廟，它在蒙古人侵?jǐn)_最嚴(yán)重的16 世紀(jì)隨著“石家莊堡式”的村堡建設(shè)流行起來(lái)。廟中一般用壁畫(huà)描繪真武大帝的形象——一位披發(fā)跣足，腳踩靈物，一手持劍的戰(zhàn)神——人們相信他的神威可以令北方的不速之客懼而退卻。

Like northern villages in China, various types of temples adorn within and without every village fortress in Yu County. Besides those nominally belonging to Buddhism and Taoism, many others are small temples of local deities managed by Buddhist monks or Taoist priests. Some examples include the Longwang Temple (Temple of the Dragon King) for rain praying, the Nainai Temple (Temple of the Goddess of Fertility), the Wudao Temple (Temple of the General Wudao) for the afterlife, the Guandi Temple (Temple of Marshall Guanyu) for fortune, the Mawang Temple (Temple of the Lord of Horses) for the prosperity of livestock, the Zitong Temple (Temple of Zitong Deity) for avoiding locust plague, and the Wenchang Temple (Temple of the Wenchang Deity) for exemplary performance in state examinations (which usually means a promising career in the imperial court). The Zhenwu Temple (Temple of the Zhenwu Deity) which guards the north, is one with the most characteristics of the area. During the 16th century, when the area was most heavily invaded by the Mongolians, Zhenwu Temples became popular along with the construction of the Shijiazhuang style village fortresses. There are usually murals depicting the Zhenwu Deity’s image in the temples—a deity of war with long hair and stomping feet, stepping on mystical creatures and holding a sword—people believed that its majestic magic power could scare off any unexpected intruders.

小飲馬泉村的戲臺(tái)（西朝東）The Opera Stage of Xiaoyinmaquan Village (viewed from west to east)

與戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)時(shí)代產(chǎn)物真武廟的森嚴(yán)凝重形成鮮明對(duì)比的是和平降臨以后興起的村莊劇場(chǎng)。得益于貿(mào)易的繁榮，清代中期的蔚縣平和而富足，人們開(kāi)始用各種方式裝點(diǎn)已失去實(shí)際效用的城堡，戲臺(tái)建筑就是最有代表性的一種，他們大多建于18 世紀(jì)以后，位置也多在毫無(wú)防備的堡門(mén)之外或廟宇之前，戲曲上演時(shí)，村民和他們崇拜的神祇共享這一份歡樂(lè)。

讓人嘆息的是，近五十年隨著民間文藝的凋落和傳播媒介的變革，蔚縣的幾百座戲臺(tái)已經(jīng)許久無(wú)人問(wèn)津了。與此同時(shí)，古堡、古廟、古宅也因不同的緣故，面臨著相似的被遺忘的命運(yùn)，在這里，歷史的力量因缺席而被感知。很多戲臺(tái)內(nèi)墻上還可以看到百年前演員們的涂畫(huà)、詩(shī)作和留念題記，他們可曾想到，前臺(tái)那雄渾的腔調(diào)，竟是一個(gè)時(shí)代的絕唱？

The openness and liveliness of the village opera stages that sprouted after the arrival of peace are in stark contrast with the sternness and seriousness of the Zhenwu Temples born out of wartime. Benefited from the prosperity of trade, Yu County was peaceful and affluent during the mid-Qing Dynasty. People started to decorate the difunctional fortresses in various ways, one of which was through building stages. Most stages were built after the 18th century and are usually located in non-defensive space outside the fortress gates or in front of temples. When the opera was on, villages and the deities that they worship share the joy.

Unfortunately, with the withering folk performance arts and the revolutionary transformation of media in the last 50 years, the several hundred village stages in Yu County have been hardly visited or used for some time. In the meantime, the ancient fortresses, temples, and mansions face a similar fate of obsolescence for various reasons. Here, the power of history is sensed precisely due to its absence. On the inner walls of many stages, one can still see the graffiti, poems, and inscriptions left by the performers from over a century ago. Would they have thought that the melancholy melody on the front stage would have been the last act of an era?