博洛尼亞：長廊之都、心靈之母

文、圖嚴(yán)春友

圣·盧卡長廊St. Luca Promenade

這是第二次來博洛尼亞，然而兩次的印象截然不同。

去年一月來時(shí)，身體欠佳，心情糟糕，所以看到的是一個(gè)破舊而衰敗的博洛尼亞——街上的建筑煙熏火燎，黑乎乎的；到處是電線，人也多，亂哄哄的；氣候陰冷而潮濕，總感到?jīng)鲲`颼的。留下的唯一美好印象是這里的橘子特別好吃——新鮮、飽滿、滋潤、汁多、味甜，自然也就很可口。

可是，這次看到的卻大不一樣，雖然建筑還是那些建筑，街道依然是原來的街道，但博洛尼亞似乎已經(jīng)不是原來的博洛尼亞了。由此不妨可以說，用什么樣的眼光就會看到什么樣的風(fēng)景。

博洛尼亞老城區(qū)的建筑，朝向街道的那一面，全都建有高大的走廊，有了這些走廊，無論春夏秋冬，不管有什么樣的雨雪都不在話下了。而那些廊柱，由于建筑時(shí)間的久遠(yuǎn)，或斑駁，或黝黑，透出歷史的深度和廣度。走在這樣的廊檐下，猶如走在歷史的隧道里，仿佛在柱廊的拐角處就可以見到古代的圣賢。難怪古代希臘曾經(jīng)產(chǎn)生過一個(gè)柱廊學(xué)派，這樣的廊子的確適合于討論哲學(xué)，在那里可以討論到天長地久。

最令人稱奇的是博洛尼亞還有一段世界上最長的長廊——圣·盧卡長廊，它從山腳蜿蜒而上，直到山頂，猶如中國的長城。在市中心，乘上14路汽車，十幾分鐘后到達(dá)體育運(yùn)動場便可見長廊的入口。沿著數(shù)不盡的臺階而上，大約一個(gè)小時(shí)可以登上山頂來到長廊的盡頭，全長近4公里。在長廊的盡頭，也是山的最高處有一座教堂，叫圣盧卡教堂。長廊的出口面對湛藍(lán)的天空，那里豎立著一個(gè)十字架，好像從高高的天空降下。原來，這個(gè)長廊并非一個(gè)簡單的遮風(fēng)避雨的設(shè)施，還是一條通向“天國”的階梯。

提到博洛尼亞，當(dāng)然不能忘記博洛尼亞大學(xué)，因?yàn)樗鞘澜缟献钤绲拇髮W(xué)，它大約建立于1088年。它的歷史如長廊一般，伸向歷史的彌漫處，在那里閃爍著許多熠熠生輝的名字——帕拉塞爾蘇斯、丟勒、塔索、伊拉斯謨、皮科·米蘭多拉、尼古拉·哥白尼等，他們在這里或?qū)W習(xí)或執(zhí)教，由此博洛尼亞成為學(xué)術(shù)圣地。由于這個(gè)原因，它才有資格被稱為“心靈之母”。

今天的博洛尼亞大學(xué)已經(jīng)擁有許多現(xiàn)代化的教學(xué)設(shè)施，然而九百年前呱呱墜地時(shí)卻篳路藍(lán)縷，它的教室就是教堂前面的空地，教堂上的陽臺則是講臺，老師站在那里講課，學(xué)生則在露天空地上聽講。最早在這里開設(shè)的課程是法學(xué)。由此也不難看出孕育現(xiàn)代文明的大學(xué)與教會的關(guān)系：大學(xué)是由教會培育出來的，而后來推翻了圣經(jīng)上的種種說法的科學(xué)，則是在大學(xué)里產(chǎn)生的。這就意味著，教會的敵人是它自己造就的，世界上的事情就是這樣復(fù)雜。

博洛尼亞大學(xué)最早的授課地點(diǎn)The earliest teaching place at the University of Bologna

博洛尼亞大學(xué)一角A corner of the University of Bologna

圣·盧卡長廊St. Luca Promenade

This is my second time in Bologna, but the impressions of the two visits are quite diverse.

I was in a poor shape with bad mood in January last year,so what I saw was a dilapidated and declining Bologna---the buildings are dark and smoked; wires everywhere, and so many people; and the weather was cold and humid, which made me always feel cold. The only favorable impression left is that the oranges here are especially delicious, fresh, moisturizing, juicy and sweet, and naturally it is most tasteful.

However, what I see this time is most different. Although the buildings are still there, the streets remain the same, Bologna does not seem to be the original one. It may be said that what kind of scenery is determined by what kind of vision.

The buildings in the old town of Bologna, the side facing the street, all have tall corridors. With these, no matter what seasons, rain or snow, it'll do properly. And those pillars, because of the long time of construction, mottled or dark, reveal the depth and breadth of history. Walking under such a corridor is like walking in a historical tunnel, as if you may encounter the ancient sages at the corner of the colonnade. It is no wonder that the ancient Greece once produced a colonnade school.Such a porch is indeed suitable for discussing philosophy, where debate can be lasting forever.

The most amazing thing is that Bologna has one of the world's longest promenades, Portico di San Luca, which rises from the foot of the mountain to the top, just like the Great Wall of China. In the city center, the No.14 bus will take you to the sports stadium in ten minutes or so, where you can see the entrance to the promenade. Along the countless steps, you can climb to the top of the mountain in about an hour and reach the end of the promenade for a total length of nearly 4 kilometers. At the end of the promenade, also the highest point of the mountain, there is a church called Madonna di San Luca. The exit of the promenade faces the blue sky, where a cross stands, as if it was descending from the high sky. It turns out that this corridor is not a simple shelter from the wind, but also a ladder leading to the "Heaven".Upon mentioning Bologna, of course, you may not miss the University of Bologna, because she is the first university across the globe as she was founded in about 1088. Her history, like a promenade, extends to the pervasiveness, where many glorious names are shining - Paracelsus, Dürer, Tasso, Erasmus, Pico Mirandola, Nicolas Copernicus etc., they were here to study or coach, and Bologna becomes an academic sacred place. That is why Bologna is called the source of L'alma Mater.

Today, the University of Bologna has many modern teaching facilities. However, when it was established 900 years ago, it was most shabby as her classroom was the open space in front of the church. The balcony on the church was the podium. The teacher stood there to lecture and the students listened in the open air.The first course offered here was law. It is not difficult to see the connection between the university and the church that gave birth to modern civilization: the university was nurtured by the church, and the science that overthrew the various statements in the Bible was produced in the university. This means that the enemy of the church is created by herself, and the things in the world are so complicated.

圣·盧卡長廊的盡頭End of St. Luca Promenade

“人中奇逸——李鐵夫藝術(shù)精品展”于12月12日至2019年1月13日在北京畫院美術(shù)館舉辦。圖為李鐵夫1918年創(chuàng)作的油畫《音樂家》The "One Beyond the Ordinary---Exhibition of Classic Works by LI Tiefu" has been held from December 12th, 2018 to January 13th, 2019 at the Art Museum of Beijing Fine Art Academy. Photo is the Musician, the oil painting created by LI Tiefu in 1918

9月28日至2019年1月6日，“走向現(xiàn)代主義：美國藝術(shù)八十載（1865-1945）”展覽在上海博物館展出。圖為愛德華·霍珀的油畫《夜游者》"Pathways to Modernism: American Art (1865-1945)" has been exhibitedat Shanghai Museum from September 28th, 2018 to January 6th, 2019. Photois theNighthawks,theoil painting byEdward Hopper.