相看兩不厭

文尢曙東

圖黃麗虹

落日金暉Golden Sunset

我不但憧憬詩和遠(yuǎn)方，我更眷戀的是故鄉(xiāng)——蘇州太湖山水的旖旎風(fēng)光。

三十多年前，初見漁洋山風(fēng)物時(shí)，我仿佛來到了陶淵明筆下的那個(gè)桃之夭夭，其華灼灼，落英繽紛的桃花源。這兒的山不高而秀雅，水不深而遼闊，更有春花、秋月、夏荷、冬雪的四季美景。望著一碧萬傾的太湖之水，看著山間漁洋里古村的縷縷炊煙，留連忘返。從此每年在不同季節(jié)，我常去靜謐山中觀賞四時(shí)風(fēng)光，澄心滌慮，放松身心。

漁洋山名源自于《贈(zèng)山報(bào)恩》的故事，據(jù)說春秋時(shí)伍子胥蒙冤受辱，被楚國懸賞通緝時(shí)，有位老漁翁不為重金所動(dòng)，冒險(xiǎn)渡他過江，來到吳國。伍子胥破楚報(bào)仇后，尋找對(duì)他有恩的老漁翁，但老漁翁已歿。伍子胥便攜他的后人至吳國，妥善安置在和吳宮相近的風(fēng)水寶地，以“漁洋”為名，以示漁翁救命之恩如海洋之深。從此青山為憑，綠水為證，漁洋山昭示了伍子胥對(duì)老漁翁的感恩情懷。

這里是全國聞名的書畫之鄉(xiāng)，多年來結(jié)交了幾個(gè)摯友，成了幾十年的至交。春，竹筍、碧螺香茶；夏，蜂蜜、揚(yáng)梅枇杷；秋，板栗、金橘銀桂；冬，糕團(tuán)、臘肉湖鮮——四時(shí)蔬果佳肴不斷。這兒的朋友們都會(huì)筆底生花，水墨煙云，還能寫詩、作詞。閑時(shí)邀一二相知，至山塢中黃墻黛瓦的曇花庵，聆聽永樂師太談?wù)勬?zhèn)庵之寶——明肅貞皇后贈(zèng)送的雕工精細(xì)、人物傳神的《漁籃觀音碑》的由來；品嘗木耳香菇，什錦素齋。在山色空蒙，雨打芭蕉、風(fēng)穿竹林的氛圍中，風(fēng)聲、雨聲、樹聲、鳥語聲、梵唄聲，無聲不寂。這時(shí)讓特有的寂靜、安寧來撫慰躁動(dòng)的心靈，不亦悅哉。

今年在“花褪殘紅青杏小”時(shí)分，靜極思動(dòng)的我，帶著幾分閑適之情，懷著半簾清夢(mèng)，又來到了林木蒼翠、百卉含英、碧水環(huán)繞、山勢(shì)陡險(xiǎn)的漁洋山巔。漁洋山在姑蘇太湖之濱，山巒延綿，是太湖的一個(gè)半島，遠(yuǎn)眺形如鰲首，一脈秀麗的青峰，高低逶迤而下，直伸入三面湖水環(huán)抱之中，突兀而立，水抱山環(huán)，相映成趣，猶如一只栩栩如生的神鰲，昂立于碧波之中。

在漁洋山頂?shù)臐O洋閣上，向南倚窗鳥瞰八百里浩渺煙波的太湖，只見黛藍(lán)群山，或遠(yuǎn)或近，連綿起伏，山出落于水，水環(huán)抱著山；湖面之上，天光云影，帆影點(diǎn)點(diǎn)鷗水相依；太湖大橋如玉帶般長虹臥波，依稀像一位風(fēng)姿綽約，飄逸雋秀的江南少女，正輕舒長袖，風(fēng)月無邊。向北憑欄送目，群山環(huán)抱，島嶼縱橫，碧水浩渺，隱隱可見如黛遠(yuǎn)山之輪廓，猶如一幅水墨勾勒，線條流暢，揮毫熏染而出的清麗秀雅的立體山水長卷在眼前徐徐展開。這時(shí)我也仿佛融入了畫卷中，一種古今往事越千年，思緒弛騁任逍遙的感覺漸漸而起——浩渺無涯的湖水，滌盡人間古今的塵囂；歷經(jīng)千帆的湖面，見證了吳越春秋的烽煙；翠林碧澗的清泉，鐫刻了多少文人韻事。

鐘靈毓秀的漁洋山，得到很多文人墨客的偏愛，尤其是明萬歷年間進(jìn)士董其昌。遙想當(dāng)年，這位擅書畫，通禪理、精鑒藏、工詩文的劃時(shí)代書畫家，他和江南俊逸們相聚漁洋山麓，把酒臨風(fēng)，泛舟太湖，攀登絕頂，吟風(fēng)弄月。從而對(duì)漁洋山一往情深，立下“歸骨漁洋”之愿?？梢娺@位踏遍名山大川，書、畫、詩、文“四絕”的文化巨匠對(duì)漁洋山的鐘愛之情。這則典故流傳至今，更為吳中雅士們津津樂道。

清初文壇領(lǐng)袖王士禎，年輕時(shí)在姑蘇探梅，夜宿太湖之濱圣恩寺，拂曉在還元閣上眺望太湖，只見晨曦中長天一色，煙波浩渺。一座形如神鰲的半島伸入太湖，山上綠樹蓊郁，蒼翠欲滴，在白紗般的輕嵐飄拂搖曳中，時(shí)隱時(shí)現(xiàn)，宛若蓬萊仙境。恍若少年時(shí)，似曾相識(shí)的夢(mèng)中之境。景色之美，只能意會(huì)，無法用言語來描繪。山里人告訴他，此山名叫漁洋山。從那天起，身材魁梧的山東漢子，深深地折服于蘇州太湖之濱這座充滿神韻幽邃的小山，他自號(hào)“漁洋山人”。 從此，漁洋山又與文壇名流大詩人王士禎緊密聯(lián)系在一起。當(dāng)王漁洋的詩名響徹神州時(shí)，漁洋山也名聞天下，成為佳話。

湖畔臨風(fēng)，一曲吳歌，甜美悠揚(yáng)的《姑蘇行》打斷了我的思緒。我憑欄仰看碧空天燁，白云悠然，環(huán)望太湖全景，洞庭諸山，如銀盤青螺，若隱若現(xiàn)，真是人在畫中游，姑蘇好風(fēng)光。直到粼粼波光，灼灼躍金，漁舟唱晚之時(shí)，仍有樂不思?xì)w之感。有人云：“擁有一片藍(lán)天碧水，徜徉一方芳草山泉，攬取一處清風(fēng)白云足已?！币蚨鞠胪诵莺筚彿坑诖?，靜觀太湖朝暉夕陰，閑與漁洋山水同樂，過一段閑云野鶴般的田園生活。不料多年前，這已規(guī)劃成五星級(jí)國家度假區(qū)，山中民居大多拆遷，朋友們也早已星散。隨之山路拓寬，每到節(jié)日車水馬龍，游人如織，已非昔日古樸山嶺。少了野情逸趣，多了歡聲笑語；少了鶯囀鸝鳴，多了嬉娛童聲。但清風(fēng)明月、四時(shí)風(fēng)光尚在。每每來這兒，總覺仍有新意，如同初見。

送夕陽，迎素月，我沿山道盤旋而下?；仨鴿O洋山，在絢麗多彩的晚霞中，青山巍巍，飛閣流丹，天開圖畫，更顯神采。突然，李白“兩看相不厭，唯有敬亭山”的名句躍上心頭；口中卻長吟道“我見青山多嫵媚，料青山見我應(yīng)如是”。

夕照里，百鳥歸鳴，潺潺清泉，初月松風(fēng)，一條又細(xì)又長的身影緩緩歸去 ……

漁洋山景區(qū)Scenic area of Mount Yuyang

漁洋山夕陽Sunset of Mount Yuyang

I am not only yearning for poetry and distance, but in love with the beautiful scenery of Taihu Lake in Suzhou, my hometown.

Seeing the landscape of Mount Yuyang for the first time over three decades ago, I seemed to have come to the fairytale of ancient Chinese poet TAO Yuanming.Mountains here are not high but elegant, the water not deep but wide, a place with more beautiful seasons of spring flowers, autumn moon, summer lotus and winter snow. Looking at the water of Taihu Lake and the smoke of the ancient village of Yuyangli, I got myself lost in the scene. From then on, I often go to the mountains to enjoy the different scenery in different seasons to relax my body and mind.

The name of Mount Yuyang originates from the story of "Presenting a Mount of Gratitude". It is said that in the Spring and Autumn Period, WU Zixu was insulted and humiliated. When the Chu State offered a reward for his arrest, an old fisherman ventured to help him cross the river to reach the Wu State. After WU Zixu defeated the Wu by revenge, he looked for the old fisherman who had been kind to him, but the fisherman had passed away already. WU Zixu then took his descendants to the Wu State, properly resettled them by the prosperous land just like that of the palace of the WU State, and named it Yuyang (literaliy, the fishing ocean)to demonstrate that the fisherman's life-saving grace was as deep as the ocean. Witnessed by the green mountain and water, the Mount Yuyang shows WU Zixu's gratitude to the old fisherman.

This is the hometown of calligraphy and painting with great reputation across the whole nation. Over the years, I have made several friends and became confidants.Bamboo shoots and Biluochun tea in Spring; honey and waxberry and loquat in Summer; chestnuts, kumquat and osmanthus fragrans in Autumn, and cakes, bacon and lake fish in Winter; this place presents constant fruits and vegetables amongst the four seasons. The friends here all have strong capacity in writing, painting,poetry and lyrics. Invite some confidants to the Tanhua Temple to listen to Yongle,the Great Nun to talk about her greatest treasure of the temple---the origin of theFishing Basket Guanyin Monumentwith delicate design presented by the Empress Suzhen of the Ming Dynasty, and taste the fungus and mushrooms and assorted vegetarian food. In the quiet mountain atmosphere, it is filled with sound of wind,rain, trees, birds and chanting. At this time, it is so pleasing to let the unique silence and tranquility soothe the inspiring souls.

This year in Spring with "faded flowers and green apricots", I, with some leisure mind, returned to the top of Mount Yuyang with forests and flowers, waters and steep slopes. By the Taihu Lake, Mount Yuyang, stretching to the foothills, forms a peninsula of the Lake. Stretching straight into the waters of the three sides of the lake, Mount Yuyang looks like the head of a turtle, standing in the blue waves.

At the Yuyang Pavilion on the top of Mount Yuyang, looking south through the window, I got a bird's-eye-view of Taihu Lake with the vast expanse of smoke,the blue mountains far or near, as if it is holding the mountains; above the lake,people sail with shadows of the gulls; the Taihu Lake bridge is like a jade belt and a graceful girl extending her light and comfortable long sleeves. Looking north, the mountains are surrounded by waters, the islands expand vertically and horizontally,the water is vast and faint, and the outline of the mountains is faintly visible. It is like a piece of beautiful and elegant three-dimensional landscapes blooming in front of your eyes. At this time, I also seemed to be integrated into the scrolls. My mind crossed over the past and the present as if the vastness of the lake wiped out the earth of the present world. The lake that has seen thousands of sails must have witnessed the fighting smoke between the states of Wu and Yue in the Spring and Autumn Period; the clear spring water of the green forest has also engraved so many affairs of literati.

The graceful Mount Yuyang has been favored by many literati, especially DONG Qichang, the great master of Wanli Emperor of the Ming Dynasty. As an epochal painter with superb talent in calligraphy, painting, Zen and poetry, he and his fellowmen gathered by the Mount, drinking wines while sailing across the Taihu Lake, climbing to the summit while chanting poems, which have accumulated his deep connection with the mountain and helped him make the wish of burieal at Yuyang. It can be seen that this cultural master who has traveled all over the mountains and rivers with unmatched capacity in books, paintings, poems and essays, the four musts, loved Mount Yuyang. The story has passed down to this day, and it is even more popular among local literati.

In the early Qing Dynasty, WANG Shizhen, the leader of the literary circle stayed at the Shengen Temple on the shore of Taihu Lake in his youth, admiring the lake from a distance at dawn, the light of the morning sun stretching between the water and sky. The turtle-head-shaped peninsula extended into the Lake with green forests and white wind, creating a fascinating fairyland, a similar land in dreams which can't be described through any words. Local people told him the mountain was called Yuyang. Since then, this burly Shandong man was deeply impressed by the hills of Taihu Lake in Suzhou, which is full of charm and tranquility. He then selfproclaimed himself "Man of Mount Yuyang". Since then, Mount Yuyang has been closely associated with the literary celebrity poet WANG Shizhen. When his poems resounded through China, Mount Yuyang became famous and legendary.

Against the lakeside wind, a local song, the sweet and melodious "Suzhou Scenery"interrupted my thoughts. I looked up at the blue sky and the white clouds leisurely,taking a panoramic view of the Taihu Lake with the Dongting mountains just like green snails on a silver plate, looming yet visible What a wonderful picture of Suzhou. When the ripples of light faded, the last singing fishing boats reminded me to go back. Some people say: "It is so satisfying to own the blue sky and clear water, wandering along the grass and springs and taking a clear breeze and white clouds." Therefore, I initially wanted to buy a house since retirement, admiring the Taihu Lake at dawn and sunset, fishing with local fishermen. Unexpectedly, many years ago, this place was planned as a five-star national resort, and now most of the houses in the mountains have been demolished, and friends have long been scattered. With the widening of the mountain roads, it features so many tourists and cars during every festival season, the past plain mountain roads are gone.With less wild interest, but more laughters; less birds' humming, but more children running after each other, however, the breeze and the moonlight are still there.There is always something new to experience each time here, just like seeing it at first glance.

Seeing off the sunset and welcoming the rising moon, I hovered down the mountain road. Looking back at Mount Yuyang , the great natural scenery showcased vivid vitality and steepness. Suddenly, the great poem of LI Bai came up into my mind: "Admiring each other, we never grow tired, the Mountain and I". But in my mouth, I chanted "I see the charming mountains, hoping the mountains see me in the same way".

In the twilight, the singing birds went home from the running spring and the moonlit pines, and so did a thin and long figure slowly going down...

碧水藍(lán)天Lucid water and blue sky