一江風(fēng)色送潮生
2018-10-11 01:58:40陳榮力
文化交流 2018年10期
陳榮力
走進(jìn)面積1400平方公里的浙東上虞，無論是翻開上虞的歷史、觸摸上虞的文化，還是游覽上虞的山水、探詢上虞的經(jīng)濟(jì)，活力磅礴、千年崢嶸的母親河曹娥江，端的是生生不息的血脈。
這條江攜兩岸山巒的奇秀俊逸，納上下支流的甘澤旖旎，滋養(yǎng)了上虞的山水之麗、物質(zhì)之豐；這條江鑄名賢大哲的精神風(fēng)骨，揚(yáng)文化葉脈的豐采華瞻，涵育了上虞的文明之燦、人文之美；這條江是上虞的精氣所凝、福祉所依；這條江更是上虞的發(fā)展所托、希望所在。
人文勝境——榜歌天際聞
這是曹娥江畔一個名叫虹蛘的小村莊。相傳中華文明始祖的虞舜就出生在這里?！妒酚洝の宓郾炯o(jì)》載：舜父瞽叟頑，母（繼母）嚚，弟象傲，皆欲殺舜。舜順適不失道，兄弟孝慈。欲殺，不可得；即求，嘗在側(cè)。舜以孝德而被堯選作禪讓的接班人，他的“孝感動天”被后世列為二十四孝之首，上虞也因而成為中華孝德文化的源頭。
虞舜引領(lǐng)的孝德文化是上虞人文最重要的基因。東漢少女曹娥“投江尋父，負(fù)父尸出”的壯烈，讓原名舜江的這條母親河又被命名為曹娥江。紀(jì)念“天下第一孝女”的曹娥廟，是國家4A級中華孝德園的核心古跡。有1800多年歷史的曹娥廟，以雕刻、楹聯(lián)、壁畫、曹娥碑“四絕”，被譽(yù)為“江南第一廟”。
面積達(dá)40公頃的中華孝德園內(nèi)，還有大舜廟、舜耕群雕、中華孝德文化館、中鑫藝術(shù)博物館等景點。漢式建筑的大舜廟，是江南地域祭祀舜帝最重要場所。由韓美林大師設(shè)計的舜耕群雕，為世界最大的孝德題材雕塑。中鑫藝術(shù)博物館則薈萃江南園林逸姿，是國內(nèi)首屈一指的民營建筑藝術(shù)博物館。作為全國規(guī)模最大、內(nèi)容最豐富、形態(tài)最生動的孝德文化旅游景區(qū)，中華孝德園已成為研究、傳承、弘揚(yáng)中華孝德文化的地標(biāo)。
沿曹娥江溯流而上，在傳說中虞舜的出生地虹蛘村南，臨江橫臥著一座中國歷史上的名山——東山。東山再起的成語典故，便來自曾隱居于此山的東晉名相謝安。唐代詩人李白曾三次登臨東山探幽思賢。因了一座東山的牽引，浙東“唐詩之路”的曹娥江，古往今來有400多位詩人游覽吟唱，至今詩意綿邈。
圍繞著東山所在的這段曹娥江的兩岸，山光水色間如珍珠般散落著眾多青瓷古窯址。一次次考古新發(fā)現(xiàn)，將瓷器之國的瓷文化歷史一次次向前推進(jìn)。青瓷之源的上虞，正在打造瓷源小鎮(zhèn)，將推動青瓷文化的復(fù)興。沿江繼續(xù)前行，在虞嵊交界的一片碧綠的茶園中，長眠著東漢唯物主義哲學(xué)家王充，其歷時三十年所著的《論衡》，至今閃耀著不朽的思想光芒。而稍晚于王充，同樣有一位叫魏伯陽的大家，醉心于道教丹經(jīng)和煉丹術(shù)的研究，他留下的那部叫《周易參同契》的奇書，是世界最早的化學(xué)著作。魏伯陽的煉丹之處，位于上虞古縣城豐惠東南的鳳鳴山，“萬古丹經(jīng)王”在此誕生，讓鳳鳴山這個國家3A級景區(qū)，成為古代化學(xué)的濫觴之地，讓人肅然起敬。
在上虞，千古流傳的不僅有學(xué)術(shù)巨著、詩詞孝德，更有悲歡離合的愛情故事。英臺故里祝家莊是梁祝傳說的發(fā)源地，這曲令全人類都為之動容的愛情絕唱，至今仍在這里久久縈繞。祝家莊景區(qū)全面展示了“梁?！边@一非遺文化，已成為天下有情人追尋忠貞不渝愛情的圣地。
“越郡佳山水，菁江接上虞。”上虞山水向為“東南山水越為首”的典范，而與此共滋互譽(yù)的人文勝景，更盛享“榜歌天際聞”的美名。
品質(zhì)原鄉(xiāng)——詩意屬誰家
南北貫穿上虞全境的曹娥江及其兩岸山水，自古就以千巖競秀、萬壑爭流著稱，而在曹娥江重要支流的隱潭溪旁，上虞最高峰覆卮山傲然屹立，向北俯視著整個虞舜大地。
相傳覆卮山為神仙在此豪飲后倒扣酒杯得名。覆卮山北麓有萬年石浪、千年梯田和百年古村三大景觀。第四紀(jì)冰川遺跡——覆卮山石浪氣勢壯偉，堪稱地質(zhì)奇觀，吸引著全國各地的“驢友”前來攀登挑戰(zhàn)。油菜花盛開的季節(jié)，千年梯田猶如一道道金黃的云梯，沿著整個山麓盤桓層疊，鋪展逶迤，勝若仙山瓊海。而散落在群山之間的-個個百年古村落，石墻黛瓦悠然迎風(fēng)，花木蔥蘢掩映生姿。其原生態(tài)的山鄉(xiāng)景觀，讓你轉(zhuǎn)瞬之間找回夢中的絲絲鄉(xiāng)愁。
這是嵇康故里、狀元之鄉(xiāng)長塘鎮(zhèn)的一個美麗村莊——桃園村。竹深林茂、鳥語花香的國家3A級景區(qū)桃花源景區(qū)就坐落在這里。濃濃的魏晉遺風(fēng)和鮮活的時代特征，把村莊和景區(qū)完美地融合在一起，讓世外桃源的美稱名副其實?！笆锾覉@伴修篁，青山碧水燃紅柿”，是這片山水的最美注釋。
作為上虞邁向全域旅游時代的鮮活詮釋，圍繞綠色生態(tài)、風(fēng)情旅游、休閑宜居，以“五星達(dá)標(biāo)、3A爭創(chuàng)”為龍頭，一臺全域建成“大景區(qū)”“大花園”的美麗鄉(xiāng)村建設(shè)大戲，正在曹娥江兩岸廣袤的土地上奏響著家園如畫、生活如詩的時代旋律。
在八百里真山真水的虞南大花園，陳溪精品旅游線風(fēng)姿曼妙，嶺南風(fēng)情旅游小鎮(zhèn)雛形初現(xiàn)，章鎮(zhèn)田園社區(qū)呼之欲出。
在禾熟魚肥、河湖連袂的虞東盆地，小越湖汽車露營藍(lán)圖既就，皂李湖休閑養(yǎng)生輪廓凸顯。百年名校春暉園名家匯聚、高山仰止。
在綠野豐沃、灘涂平展的虞北平原，大閘、大橋、大潮交相輝映，百花爭艷的杭州灣海上花田小鎮(zhèn)，正由國家4A級景區(qū)向5A級景區(qū)快速邁進(jìn)……
“古村落殘霞，客路換歲華。眼前風(fēng)景別，詩意屬誰家。”如詩似畫的上虞鄉(xiāng)村，正蝶化為你探尋鄉(xiāng)愁密碼、一圓鄉(xiāng)愁之夢的最美品質(zhì)原鄉(xiāng)。
仙果之旅——花開相映明
屬亞熱帶季風(fēng)性氣候的上虞，濕潤多雨、光照充足，肥沃的土壤和豐美甘冽的曹娥江水滋潤灌濯，使上虞成為種植各種優(yōu)質(zhì)水果的樂土。以春季草莓、櫻桃，夏季楊梅、葡萄，秋季黃花梨、獼猴桃，冬季柿子、冬棗等為主打，上虞不但實現(xiàn)了季季有鮮果、月月可采摘，集鮮果采摘、農(nóng)家體驗、餐飲民宿、山水游歷于一體的“四季仙果之旅”，更是飲譽(yù)江南的著名旅游品牌。
料峭的初春季節(jié)，漫山遍野的櫻桃花，將四明山下的下管洙風(fēng)村裹挾在一片潔白的云海里。而短短一個半月后，鮮紅的櫻桃便掛滿了枝頭。洙風(fēng)村是被稱作“春天第一仙果”櫻桃的主產(chǎn)地之一，這里的短柄櫻桃以果形大、成熟早、色紅味甜聞名。在虞南腹地的下管、嶺南、陳溪等地，像洙風(fēng)村這樣的櫻桃村有20余個，種植面積達(dá)5500畝，年產(chǎn)櫻桃超過50萬公斤。
每年的夏至前后，是驛亭鎮(zhèn)二都村最忙的季節(jié)。家家戶戶的楊梅山上，操著各種口音的游客蜂擁而至。以二都命名的驛亭二都楊梅，向為朝廷貢品，在“中國楊梅之鄉(xiāng)”的驛亭鎮(zhèn)，二都楊梅的種植面積達(dá)1.5萬畝。在五月的熏風(fēng)里，投身綠海紅波的浪漫，飽餐一粒千金的美味，無疑是“四季仙果之旅”的至尊。
“珠帳累累掛，龍須蔓蔓抽?！逼咸咽巧嫌莓a(chǎn)量最大的鮮果，全區(qū)種植面積已近兩萬畝，特別是在“江南吐魯番”的蓋北鎮(zhèn)，野藤葡萄連片種植面積超過1.2萬畝，是浙江最大的葡萄種植、集散和旅游觀光地。野藤葡萄不僅品質(zhì)優(yōu)良、鮮冽香甜，品種更多達(dá)30余種，堪稱中國葡萄博物園。
近年來，隨著打造“四季仙果之旅”升級版行動的推進(jìn)和提升，昔日簡單的水果種植基地正向莊園化、景區(qū)化發(fā)展。過去單純的采摘+品嘗+加觀光的線性旅游、單項旅游，也正朝著采摘+餐飲+民宿+休閑的綜合旅游、文化旅游邁進(jìn)。一批以仙果旅游景觀、創(chuàng)意仙果體驗、高端度假業(yè)態(tài)為特征的四季仙果文化旅游項目，正展現(xiàn)其醉人的風(fēng)姿。
“墟里炊煙與云平，陌上花開相映明”。名譽(yù)江南的“四季仙果之旅”，恰似一條條四季溢香的河流，醉美人間。
濱江旅游——風(fēng)色送潮生
每當(dāng)夜色臨近、華燈初上，曹娥江城區(qū)段兩岸的江堤，便迎來一天中最熱鬧的時刻。國家級水利景觀工程——曹娥江十八里景觀帶猶如母親河的秀美飄帶，是上虞市民觀覽江景、休閑娛樂、運(yùn)動健身的最佳去處。
曹娥江流經(jīng)上虞城區(qū)段長達(dá)9公里，水面寬闊，江堤堅固，兩岸高樓林立、花木扶疏。特別是實施擁江西進(jìn)戰(zhàn)略以來，以e游小鎮(zhèn)的崛起為標(biāo)志，城區(qū)一江兩岸已成為上虞建設(shè)創(chuàng)新之區(qū)、品質(zhì)之城的強(qiáng)大引擎。而打造以水陸聯(lián)動的黃金旅游線為目標(biāo)，濱江觀光、水陸運(yùn)動、休閑娛樂、文化創(chuàng)意、商務(wù)會展、生態(tài)農(nóng)業(yè)等諸多元素互動融合的曹娥江文化旅游項目，正在奏響上虞全域旅游的最強(qiáng)音。
在濱江臨水的城南濕地公園，江上花海游人如織，七色風(fēng)車迎風(fēng)舞，滿地繁花鋪彩虹，一個江畔童話世界繽紛絢麗。
在樹木蒼翠的兩岸景觀帶，謝晉電影館、非遺展示館、娥江書場、虞舜書畫院庭園錯落，墨韻書香里人文飄逸，越調(diào)紹腔中風(fēng)情縈繞。
在江花勝火的江灘水岸，沙灘排球、沙灘網(wǎng)球笑聲翻飛，月光音樂趴、篝火派對歌喉高亢，半程馬拉松、自行車騎行賽等諸多運(yùn)動賽事，更是熱情如潮，人氣高漲。
端午前后，大型龍舟競賽引得萬人空巷，江上祭祀曹娥彰顯古老風(fēng)俗，水上婚禮、游船觀光和諸多水面訓(xùn)練、運(yùn)動賽事的舉辦，使曹娥江成為江南地域最具優(yōu)勢和特色的水上運(yùn)動基地。
入夜的曹娥江兩岸，萬家燈火倒映粼粼波光，暮色低垂，橫跨曹娥江的條條彩虹，更如燦爛的星河灑落人間，把一江兩岸的繁華點綴得如夢如幻……
“兩岸燈火連海嶼，一江風(fēng)色送潮生?！?/h3>
流淌千年的曹娥江，曾因千峰翠色的青瓷引得百舸爭流的繁華，也因白云還自散的風(fēng)致凝聚唐詩之路的旖旎。今天，當(dāng)以曹娥江文化旅游項目為標(biāo)識的全域旅游風(fēng)正帆懸的時候，曹娥江，這條古老而華滋的母親河，必將煥發(fā)出澎湃的青春激情和無窮的雋永詩意。
（本文圖片由王暉攝）
Shangyu， previously a rural county and now a district of Shaoxing， is a place of history and culture and natural beauty. Zigzagging in eastern Zhejiang， Caoe River is the mother river of 1，400-km2 Shangyu.
According to local legends， Emperor Shun was born in a small village by the river. His father was blind. Shortly after Shun was born， his mother died. The stepmother and his father had a son and a daughter. The stepmother and the half-brother tried several times to kill Shun， but Shun managed to escape and still treated his mother and brother with respect and kindness. The man of virtue was eventually picked by Emperor Yao as the successive ruler of China. Shuns filial piety story， though only a legend， stays at the top of the 24 filial piety stories in Chinese culture.
Virtue and filial piety is a key spiritual legacy of the regional culture of Shangyu. In the Eastern Han Dynasty （25-220AD）， a young girl named Caoe went into a local river to retrieve her fathers body after the fisherman drowned. Eventually she got the body and carried it to the shore. Caoe River was renamed after her. Before， the name was called Shun River in honor of the emperor. In this renaming， one could see that local people believed that the daughter who retrieved her fathers body was more important than the emperor.
Caoe Temple was first constructed in 151 AD in honor of the young woman.
In the following centuries and through different dynasties， it was rebuilt again and again with the funds from the national and provincial governments. Many celebrities including famed calligraphers such as Wang Xizhi contributed couplets and inscriptions to the temple. In 1989， the temple was designated as a cultural relic under the protection of the provincial government of Zhejiang. In 2013， it was inscribed on the 7th national list of key cultural relics under the protection of the national government.
If you travel upstream along Caoe River， you see East Hill， an important hill in Chinese history. Xie An， a scholar of the Eastern Jin （317-420AD）， retired early to a reclusive life after a brief official appointment. It was not until he was 40 years old that he came out of the reclusive life and worked as a government official. He was so capable that he eventually saved the royal house from collapse. A Comeback to Power from East Hill， a set phrase in Chinese language， is the most succinct telling of the story. In Chinese history such a story has been repeated again and again. The most famous example in the modern times is probably Deng Xiaoping， who came back to power three times in his political career. Li Bai， presumably the greatest poet of the Tang （618-907）， went out of his way to visit East Hill three times. Scholars of today assume that it is this East Hill that added a huge attraction to the Poetry Road of the Tang in eastern Zhejiang. Though this so-called road of poetry is a modern discovery， poets of the Tang did travel a lot in the scenic east of the province. An examination of ancient poetry collections reveals that more than 400 poets in ancient times traveled up Caoe River and visited East Hill.
Near East Hill are many ancient remains of the ancient celadon kilns along the two shores of the river. Archaeological finds in recent years have traced the history of pottery making in Zhejiang back further to more ancient times.
In a tea plantation near the border of Shangyu and Shengxian County lies the tomb of Wang Chong， a philosopher of the Eastern Han Dynasty （25-220AD）. ， a collection of philosophical arguments penned by the scholar in a period of 30 years， is a classic piece that still shines today. Wei Boyang， an ancient alchemist who was almost a contemporary of Wang Chong， dedicated his life to the study of immortality pills. He wrote a book on his theoretical studies and practices， which has turned out to be the earliest book of chemistry in the world. The mountain where he set up his workshop and experimented on immortality pills is called Fengming Mountain. It is now a national 3-A scenic zone.
The Butterfly Lovers， a tragic romance story， originated in Shangyu. The tale has long been dramatized and is in the repertoire of many regional operas. There is also a namesake Chinese violin concerto， which has been played around the world since the concertos sensational debut on May 27， 1959. There is a tourism attraction in Shangyu that features the great love story and the man and the woman involved in the tragedy.
Across rural Shangyu are many idyllic scenes and ancient villages. One huge attraction is a valley of rocks， which is a legacy of the glacier of the ice age million years ago. Another attraction is terraced fields， which allow tourists of today a glance into the agricultural past of the country. Ancient villages give tourists a more visual insight into a lifestyle that is long gone but makes people of today wonder if it is wise to let it disappear forever.
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