縉云燒餅：從中國(guó)鄉(xiāng)村走向世界

施力維 朱映歸 劉思佳

不久前，縉云縣收到一份大禮——?dú)W盟知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)辦公室頒發(fā)的商標(biāo)注冊(cè)證書。這是當(dāng)?shù)赝苿?dòng)本土燒餅品牌建設(shè)4年來(lái)首次取得海外注冊(cè)商標(biāo)。這也意味著，今后縉云燒餅在海外的推廣，有了更堅(jiān)實(shí)的基礎(chǔ)。

在面積不足20平方米的縉云燒餅品牌建設(shè)辦公室（簡(jiǎn)稱燒餅辦）里，掛著3幅地圖：一幅紅點(diǎn)遍布的浙江地圖，一幅多點(diǎn)開花的中國(guó)地圖，以及一張開始落子的世界地圖。

截至2017年底，縉云燒餅產(chǎn)業(yè)年產(chǎn)值突破15億元，燒餅師傅平均年收入超過(guò)10萬(wàn)元，燒餅品牌示范店已累計(jì)多達(dá)431家，遍及全國(guó)各?。▍^(qū)、市）和歐美、東南亞等12個(gè)國(guó)家和地區(qū)。

小吃是餐飲業(yè)發(fā)展的突破口，也是地方文化的重要載體。做好縉云燒餅的海外推廣，不僅開辟了傳統(tǒng)小吃的新市場(chǎng)，拓展了產(chǎn)業(yè)富民的新渠道，更有利于以美食美味傳遞中華文化，推進(jìn)中外文化的交流與認(rèn)同。

與此同時(shí)，在與海外餐飲行業(yè)的貼身競(jìng)爭(zhēng)中，國(guó)外的管理模式、先進(jìn)經(jīng)驗(yàn)，也會(huì)助推縉云燒餅等傳統(tǒng)小吃更好地發(fā)展。

短短幾年時(shí)間，縉云燒餅是如何實(shí)現(xiàn)快速崛起的？“灰頭土臉”的路邊攤，又如何通過(guò)特色化改造成為品牌店？燒餅師傅走遍中國(guó)，跨出國(guó)門，又如何在新時(shí)代實(shí)現(xiàn)新突破？近日，筆者來(lái)到縉云，追尋這只燒餅背后的傳奇故事。

特色化：趙一均的燒餅，做出了披薩味

30年前，當(dāng)19歲的農(nóng)村小伙趙一均來(lái)到縉云縣城，在街頭擺燒餅攤討生活時(shí)，不會(huì)想到自己有一天會(huì)成為歐洲人的座上賓：在意大利國(guó)家電視臺(tái)的鏡頭前，給當(dāng)?shù)孛鳜F(xiàn)場(chǎng)烤制燒餅，侃侃而談中國(guó)燒餅和意大利披薩的歷史淵源。

“爐傳三百世，餅香五千年”，在趙一均的講述下，縉云燒餅悠久的歷史和神奇的傳說(shuō)，讓意大利人直呼不可思議。相傳，遠(yuǎn)古時(shí)期的軒轅黃帝在縉云仙都的石筍上用仙鼎煉丹，腹饑時(shí)就以山泉和面，揉成團(tuán)貼在煉丹爐內(nèi)壁，烤出的餅色澤金黃，酥糯可口，香飄四野。當(dāng)?shù)匕傩章勏愣鴦?dòng)，有心人仿效軒轅仙鼎以竹木為外桶、窯土為內(nèi)壁制成土鼎，又名燒桶，專用于烤制燒餅之用。該工藝世代承傳，成就了風(fēng)味獨(dú)特的縉云燒餅。

據(jù)專家考證，縉云燒餅技藝的成熟，大約在南宋至元朝前后，至今已有千年歷史?？N云發(fā)現(xiàn)的溪灘窯址群，出土了大量宋元時(shí)期的窯具，有墊餅、墊圈、匣缽等，它們與燒餅桶制作工藝相仿。這表明了燒餅桶出現(xiàn)的時(shí)間不早于宋元時(shí)期（南宋之后），與小麥、家豬肉在南方的推廣應(yīng)用時(shí)間基本吻合。

過(guò)去在縉云，父攜子、夫攜妻，縉云人挑著烤桶遠(yuǎn)赴他鄉(xiāng)，靠著吃苦耐勞賺些錢。雖然燒餅烤制技藝歷史悠久，但大家覺(jué)得這是小打小鬧，總歸成不了氣候。

但當(dāng)?shù)馗刹繀s不這樣認(rèn)為。經(jīng)過(guò)系統(tǒng)調(diào)研，縉云決心要把燒餅做成一個(gè)有影響力、也能幫助農(nóng)民增收的產(chǎn)業(yè)。2014年初，縉云縣政府推動(dòng)成立燒餅辦，注冊(cè)統(tǒng)一商標(biāo)、設(shè)計(jì)統(tǒng)一門店形象，還整合各方資源，利用“縉云燒餅文化節(jié)”、省農(nóng)博會(huì)等載體進(jìn)行宣傳推介。

趙一均還記得2014年在縉云縣城開出第一家燒餅品牌店時(shí)的忐忑。這么大的裝修費(fèi)用、租金投入，能賺回來(lái)嗎？沒(méi)想到，紅底黃字的“縉云燒餅”大招牌，整潔有序的店內(nèi)環(huán)境，加上美味噴香的燒餅，引來(lái)一波又一波食客，生意火爆得出乎趙一均的意料。

經(jīng)過(guò)多年經(jīng)營(yíng)，靠著手藝和勤奮，趙一均也成為了“烤燒餅、開大奔”者中的一員，他和在全國(guó)各地做生意的老鄉(xiāng)一起經(jīng)常上網(wǎng)絡(luò)熱搜，“現(xiàn)在一談起燒餅，大家都想到縉云”。2016年，縉云燒餅成功入選浙江省非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)。

當(dāng)?shù)貫榱思涌焱卣故袌?chǎng)，啟動(dòng)了海外商標(biāo)注冊(cè)的前期工作。2017年下半年，縉云燒餅協(xié)會(huì)派出趙一均夫婦，專程赴意大利米蘭推廣宣傳燒餅。行程共計(jì)11天，夫妻倆原本打算留兩天時(shí)間在意大利走走看看，但外國(guó)友人對(duì)燒餅的熱愛打亂了他們的計(jì)劃。“每天忙前忙后要做200多個(gè)燒餅，連威尼斯這樣的景點(diǎn)都沒(méi)去成?！壁w一均說(shuō)，雖然留有遺憾，但這場(chǎng)“燒餅之旅”讓他感到興奮。

去年，縉云燒餅登陸加拿大多倫多。試水營(yíng)業(yè)當(dāng)天，誰(shuí)都沒(méi)想到，每個(gè)售價(jià)為2.5加元、折合人民幣約12元的縉云燒餅，開業(yè)當(dāng)天就賣出500多個(gè)，并且一直保持旺盛人氣，許多顧客只能按號(hào)排隊(duì)，隔天取餅。

在趙一均看來(lái)，海外的實(shí)踐表明，縉云燒餅和披薩、漢堡一樣，完全有成為全球風(fēng)靡小吃的潛質(zhì)，可以在海外大力推廣，“燒餅的餡料、爐溫、時(shí)間都可量化控制，可復(fù)制推廣”。在意大利，他在餡料上稍作了改良，添加了乳酪，制作出蘑菇、火腿肉餡的燒餅，一經(jīng)推出，極受當(dāng)?shù)厝讼矚g。

國(guó)外顧客盈門的燒餅店以及趙一均夫婦火熱的意大利之旅，堅(jiān)定了縉云人走國(guó)際化道路、將燒餅打造成全國(guó)乃至全球知名小吃的決心?！跋蛲鈬?guó)人推廣燒餅，我們不僅瞄準(zhǔn)國(guó)外龐大的市場(chǎng)，也期待突破鄉(xiāng)土小吃的低端定位。”縉云縣農(nóng)辦相關(guān)負(fù)責(zé)人說(shuō)，國(guó)外餐飲行業(yè)在食品質(zhì)量安全管控、服務(wù)細(xì)節(jié)等方面的經(jīng)驗(yàn)十分值得學(xué)習(xí)。

為了讓燒餅更有國(guó)際范，近來(lái)，縉云燒餅辦還專門更新了包括燒餅門店裝修、制作工藝規(guī)范等要求。在該負(fù)責(zé)人看來(lái)，新規(guī)程的建立，既符合國(guó)際化的需求，又留住燒餅制作傳統(tǒng)技藝的精髓，有助于進(jìn)一步提升鄉(xiāng)土小吃的品質(zhì)和競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力?，F(xiàn)在，意大利、西班牙、塞爾維亞、加拿大、俄羅斯等一些國(guó)家和地區(qū)都有了縉云燒餅門店，生意火爆。

標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化：農(nóng)閑田的芥菜，粗細(xì)精確到毫米

在加拿大求學(xué)、工作、定居近30年的學(xué)者趙月枝，依然帶著濃濃的縉云鄉(xiāng)音，依然最愛縉云味道，每次探親回家，縉云燒餅肯定要吃，返回時(shí)還會(huì)在行李箱里塞上縉云面條和菜干。

2015年，趙月枝得知家鄉(xiāng)小吃發(fā)展得轟轟烈烈，便帶著研究團(tuán)隊(duì)前來(lái)，試圖解讀它的現(xiàn)狀、發(fā)展和未來(lái)。一份6萬(wàn)字的報(bào)告——《舌尖上的縉云燒餅中的乾坤——縉云燒餅品牌推廣與產(chǎn)業(yè)培育評(píng)估與建議》出爐了。縉云燒餅也由此在華僑的推動(dòng)下，從普通的小吃成為了一種經(jīng)濟(jì)、文化現(xiàn)象被學(xué)者們研究。

研究表明，在當(dāng)下中國(guó)，社會(huì)的流動(dòng)、城鄉(xiāng)的變遷，讓鄉(xiāng)土美食有著豐富而深刻的家園意義，鄉(xiāng)愁總能激起大范圍的共鳴，因此也有了前所未有的巨大市場(chǎng)。

但當(dāng)小吃邁出國(guó)門走向更廣闊的市場(chǎng)、面對(duì)更多元的受眾時(shí)，怎么發(fā)展？

“對(duì)于縉云燒餅這樣的全縣的品牌，縣級(jí)層面需要在商業(yè)與法律、速度與效益、求快與求穩(wěn)上進(jìn)行統(tǒng)籌并保持定力?！摆w月枝說(shuō)。

為此，縉云燒餅辦的工作人員研讀國(guó)外法律，積極開展商標(biāo)申請(qǐng)工作。另一方面，縉云燒餅堅(jiān)持產(chǎn)品標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化和原產(chǎn)地的保護(hù)?！笆刈】N云燒餅的品質(zhì)，寧可擴(kuò)張得慢一點(diǎn)，也必須掃清可能存在的法律風(fēng)險(xiǎn)?！笨N云燒餅辦相關(guān)負(fù)責(zé)人表示。

不管在哪里，一只味道濃郁、入口香醇的縉云燒餅，離不開三樣?xùn)|西：面粉、菜干、爐膛?？上驳氖牵谌蛉魏我患铱N云燒餅店，這三大件，全部由縉云本土提供，這給燒餅的質(zhì)量提供了保證。

縉云縣東方鎮(zhèn)九頭芥主產(chǎn)區(qū)，每到腌制干菜的時(shí)節(jié)，利用冬閑種下的芥菜鮮嫩欲滴，農(nóng)民們仔細(xì)收割、晾曬、腌制，最終成為制作縉云燒餅必不可少的干菜。

“收來(lái)做燒餅的菜干得篩選過(guò)，不能超過(guò)7毫米，粗一點(diǎn)都不行?！睎|方鎮(zhèn)里種了一輩子芥菜的老農(nóng)民不明白，年紀(jì)輕輕的徐生可為何如此死板，對(duì)一根干菜的粗細(xì)，吹毛求疵到了毫米的程度。

徐生可，今年30歲剛出頭。因?yàn)榭N云燒餅的紅火，大學(xué)畢業(yè)后他放棄了在杭州的工作，到縉云下田收干菜。他的合作社每年為縉云燒餅專供20萬(wàn)公斤干菜餡料。

“干菜超過(guò)7毫米，制成的薄餅就容易在口中留渣，不符合縉云燒餅選用的原料標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。”從徐生可的話里我們不難發(fā)現(xiàn)，縉云燒餅?zāi)芸焖賹?shí)現(xiàn)品牌化，并被市場(chǎng)接受，有一個(gè)重要的前提，就是通過(guò)原料、工藝、場(chǎng)地的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化，保持口感的穩(wěn)定性。

“燒餅，如果在杭州、上海、多倫多、莫斯科吃，與在縉云吃是截然不同的味道，那品牌化推廣就無(wú)從談起?！笨N云縣燒餅辦副主任應(yīng)耀強(qiáng)說(shuō)，為確保燒餅口感的穩(wěn)定優(yōu)質(zhì)，在剔除燒餅師傅個(gè)人手藝的細(xì)微差異后，各門店在菜干、燒餅桶、爐芯等方面都實(shí)現(xiàn)了標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化。

依托縉云燒餅的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化建設(shè)，縉云菜干、爐芯燒造等傳統(tǒng)產(chǎn)業(yè)也得到復(fù)蘇。在東方鎮(zhèn)古樓村，通過(guò)種植芥菜，農(nóng)民每畝地增收人民幣7000元至8000元。在東山村，有的村民一年能賣出六七千個(gè)陶爐膛。此外，縉云建立了小麥種植基地、原木炭基地等，通過(guò)保底分紅、股份合作、利潤(rùn)返還等多種形式，讓農(nóng)民共享全產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈增值收益。

“過(guò)去在鄉(xiāng)村有許多特色產(chǎn)業(yè)和手藝，卻無(wú)法進(jìn)行大規(guī)模推廣，一個(gè)重要原因是缺乏標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化建設(shè)，導(dǎo)致產(chǎn)品質(zhì)量參差不齊，影響了產(chǎn)業(yè)的生命力?！睉?yīng)耀強(qiáng)說(shuō)，如今，通過(guò)原料標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化、原產(chǎn)地供應(yīng)等方式，一條以縉云燒餅為龍頭帶動(dòng)鄉(xiāng)村全產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈的致富路線，已經(jīng)清晰可見。

國(guó)際化：“土師傅”走出國(guó)門，洋徒弟上門學(xué)藝

有師傅把燒餅桶搬到了國(guó)外，也有洋徒弟想把美味帶回老家。

2018年4月的一個(gè)清晨，在縉云城區(qū)的一家燒餅店內(nèi)，26歲的菲律賓小伙阿德里安和姑姑伊麗莎白向師傅周凱作揖告別。他們準(zhǔn)備在菲律賓開燒餅店。

阿德里安的父親是一名成功商人，在菲律賓擁有豪宅和莊園。阿德里安是家里的長(zhǎng)子，這位本來(lái)跟著父親做生意的富二代，因?yàn)橐淮闻既坏臋C(jī)會(huì)吃到了縉云燒餅，竟然念念不忘。之后，阿德里安找到周凱開始學(xué)做縉云燒餅。

“父親的錢是父親賺的，我也要學(xué)會(huì)賺錢。我喜歡吃燒餅，我要在菲律賓開家燒餅店，我相信燒餅會(huì)在菲律賓暢銷。”阿德里安準(zhǔn)備在菲律賓開三家燒餅店?！胺坡少e人喜歡這種口味，我相信會(huì)火爆的，我干得一定不會(huì)比父親差?！?/p>

縉云縣香溢大酒店是該縣唯一的四星級(jí)酒店，阿德里安和姑姑在此已經(jīng)居住了半個(gè)月。晚上7時(shí)到早晨7時(shí)，姑侄倆住在酒店，其他時(shí)間他們都呆在周凱的燒餅店里。

41歲的周凱是縉云燒餅手藝的傳承人，2016年，他被評(píng)為縉云縣“燒餅高級(jí)師傅”。

阿德里安和姑姑來(lái)店里學(xué)手藝半個(gè)月，每人要交5000元的學(xué)費(fèi)，對(duì)此周凱和阿德里安都非常坦然?！皩W(xué)習(xí)當(dāng)然要交學(xué)費(fèi)了，收了錢我會(huì)負(fù)責(zé)教會(huì)他們?！敝軇P說(shuō)。

阿德里安和姑姑在廚房里和面、包餡，往烤爐里貼燒餅，用火鉗夾出烤熟的燒餅，動(dòng)作雖然不熟練，但做得細(xì)致認(rèn)真，周凱不時(shí)地在一旁指點(diǎn)一二。

阿德里安是華裔，會(huì)生澀的中文，能勉強(qiáng)和周凱溝通交流。做完一爐燒餅后，周凱會(huì)細(xì)心點(diǎn)評(píng)。阿德里安隨身帶著筆記本，周凱的評(píng)點(diǎn)和指正，阿德里安都會(huì)用英文記錄下來(lái)，“我要好好溫習(xí)，爭(zhēng)取早日出師?！?/p>

“做餡料、包燒餅、往爐內(nèi)貼燒餅的手藝他們已經(jīng)初步掌握，但和面發(fā)酵技術(shù)還欠火候，這也是縉云燒餅里最難的技術(shù)。他們離開縉云后，我會(huì)每天抽時(shí)間在網(wǎng)上對(duì)他們的和面技術(shù)進(jìn)行指導(dǎo)，直到他們學(xué)會(huì)為止?！敝軇P說(shuō)。

“像阿德里安這樣來(lái)中國(guó)學(xué)習(xí)做燒餅的人越來(lái)越多，縉云燒餅正以中國(guó)披薩的形象被海外人士接受?！笨N云燒餅辦副主任應(yīng)耀強(qiáng)說(shuō)。

當(dāng)然，實(shí)現(xiàn)美好愿景的道路上，仍然有許多挑戰(zhàn)?！皬摹畢^(qū)域小品牌邁向‘國(guó)際大品牌，不可能一蹴而就?！睉?yīng)耀強(qiáng)說(shuō)，目前，縉云燒餅的經(jīng)營(yíng)者仍是從農(nóng)村出來(lái)的傳統(tǒng)意義上的“小商販”，要在全國(guó)甚至全球站穩(wěn)腳跟，必須進(jìn)一步提高“烤”的技藝、提升“賣”的能力，實(shí)現(xiàn)從鄉(xiāng)土燒餅師傅向現(xiàn)代經(jīng)營(yíng)者的轉(zhuǎn)型。

值得欣喜的是，2018年，已有越來(lái)越多像徐生可、趙一均這樣的從業(yè)者加入縉云燒餅行業(yè)，還有趙月枝、阿德里安這樣的華僑華裔共同參與推動(dòng)。他們或年輕、或有閱歷，將給走遍全國(guó)、跨出國(guó)門的縉云燒餅帶來(lái)新力量。

Jinyun， a rural county in the south of Zhejiang， received in March 2018 the certificate of registration of Jinyun from European Union Intellectual Property Office， an important recognition of the trademark. The certificate indicates the latest success of a brand strategy started seriously four years ago in the county for It is the countys first overseas registration of the brand.

In the 20-m2 office of the Jinyun Brand Development Office （locally known as Office）， there are three maps indicating where Jinyun shops are： on a map of Zhejiang are the largest arrays of red dots； on a map of China， red dots are spread far and wide； red dots on a map of the world indicate the beginning of a world strategy. By the end of 2017， the annual output value of the -related transactions topped 1.5 billion yuan； there were 431 franchised sales outlets across China and in 12 countries and regions across the world.

is a local cake baked in an oven. The history of the delicacy in Jinyun can trace back to over 1，000 years ago. Archaeological finds in the rural county indicate the pottery oven unearthed looks exactly like those we see today. The pottery oven appeared around the same time as wheat and pork came to the south when the royal house of the Southern Song Dynasty （1127-1279） came southward and founded the dynasty in Linan （the present-day Hangzhou）. In the past， making and selling the cake was always a small family business. Vendors went everywhere to make a living by baking the cake in an oven， which they could carry about easily with a shoulder pole.

While makers thought nothing of such a small business， the county government saw a big picture in the small cake. In early 2014， the county government ambitiously set up a special office to make it into a big business. The government office has registered a trademark for all the makers of Jinyun. It has produced a unified shop decoration plan for all the outlets to follow. The office holds events in Jinyun and beyond to promote the brand.

Zhao Yijun， who started his business in the capital of Jinyun 30 years ago at age 19， wouldnt have thought about the day he would operate in a finely decorated bakery in Jinyun. In 2014， he restarted his Bakery in Jinyun with the government subsidies. The government had helped redecorated the shop. Zhao was worried about the big investment into the decoration and the rental for the larger space. But his misgivings were gone after day one. Customers flocked to his bakery. His business has boomed with a big bang. Now he is one of the makers who drive a Mercedes-Benz car. In 2017， the county was making preparations for the registration of the Jinyun Shao Bing with Europe Union when the office sent Zhao Yijun and his wife to Italy to promote the Jinyun delicacy. They planned two days out of the 11-day trip for sightseeing in Venice. But they didnt have the luxury for tourism. They were busy with making the new version of Jinyun in the pizza style using mushroom and other Italian food ingredients such as bacon and cheese for the stuffing. Jinyun made similar sensational sales in Toronto， Canada in 2017.

Zhao thinks that Jinyunhas the potential to become a top seller like pizza and hamburger. “The stuffing， the oven temperature， and the baking time are all controllable， quantifiable and repeatable，” he emphasizes.

The office has updated its decoration standard and baking procedure so as to adapt to the internationalization of the delicacy and retain the essence of the traditional cake.

Zhao Yuezhi， a native of Jinyun who has been working as a research scholar in Canada for over 30 years， brought back a team to Jinyun in 2015 and did a thorough field study of the cake phenomenon. The team produced a 60，000-word report on the small delicacy. The report made a number of suggestions to the government： effective measures and strategies must be formulated and adopted to ensure the business grows in compliance with laws and regulations in overseas markets， and to ensure unified quality control and stable growth. The suggestions were adopted.

Nowadays， Jinyun has standardized three essential ingredients of the cake making： wheat flour， the dehydrated and pickled leaf mustard used in the stuffing， and the pottery oven chamber.

The leaves of the leaf mustard must be no more than 7 millimeters in thickness， says Xu Shengke， a Jinyun native and college graduate whose co-op now provides 200，000 kilograms of the dried and pickled leaves as a key ingredient for the Shao Bing. “Leaves thicker than 7 millimeters would leave dregs in the mouth，” he pointed out. He buys the dried and pickled mustard leaves from individual farmers who have contracts with his co-op. With the unified and standardized operation， Jinyun tastes the same in Hangzhou， Shanghai， Toronto， and Moscow， just to name a few places where Jinyun Shao Bing are sold. “The brand would be pointless if the cake in different places offered different tastes，” says Ying Yaoqiang， vice director of the Office of Jinyun.

The standards have brought back the farming and manufacturing business of the dried leave mustard and pottery over chamber， two traditional products of Jinyun.

“Many regional products have failed to reach provincial or national markets， let alone international market， primarily because there was no standardization， which led to the poor control of quality，” pointed out Ying Yaoqiang. Nowadays， Jinyun controls the quality by promoting unified standards and by making sure all the key things come from Jinyun. The county hopes that the industry can really become big and become a huge pillar of the countys economy.

The internationalization of Jinyun has attracted foreigners to learn about the trade and start up their own business in their own countries. The 26-year-old Adrian， a Filipino， and his aunt Elisabeth， just finished their apprentice in Jinyun at a Shao Bing bakery operated by the 41-year-old Zhou Kai in Jinyun. Adrian is a rich kid， but he wants to start his own business. After running into Jinyun Shao Bing by chance， he decided to learn the trade. Adrian and Elisabeth stayed in a four-star hotel in the county capital from seven in the evening to the seven in the morning and spent the next 12 hours at the bakery learning the trade. In April they graduated and went back to the Philippines. Zhou Kai will provide face-to-face advice through the internet until they get everything okay. Adrian plans to open three shops in the island nation. He believes his fellow Filipinos will love the delicacy from Jinyun.