食美浙江，展示文化的無(wú)窮魅力

嘉仁

以挖掘和展示浙江民間美食文化為特征的《中國(guó)浙菜·鄉(xiāng)土美食》（簡(jiǎn)稱《食美浙江》）一書(shū)，近年來(lái)從眾多的美食類書(shū)籍中脫穎而出。它的問(wèn)世，如同春天漫山遍野的植物一樣，迅速地在各地開(kāi)花：《食美杭州》《食美臺(tái)州》《食美海寧》《食美溫嶺》《食美樂(lè)清》……相繼出版的以“食美”為主題的地方美食系列書(shū)籍，上架后就成為暢銷之作。據(jù)紅旗出版社透露，還有一些地方的“食美系列”書(shū)籍在等待出版。

《食美浙江》是浙江省第一部由政府支持、專業(yè)團(tuán)隊(duì)編寫(xiě)、傳媒界等社會(huì)各方面人士廣泛參與的鄉(xiāng)土美食菜譜。164味地道佳肴、34款暖心小點(diǎn)、10席純正民俗家宴……書(shū)中的這些美味，從浙江民間報(bào)送的近700個(gè)菜品中精選而出。它們是浙江鄉(xiāng)土菜肴的代表，來(lái)自尋常百姓家的灶臺(tái)。

人們對(duì)美食的熱愛(ài)是發(fā)自內(nèi)心的。這套被稱為“舌尖上的浙江寶典”的系列菜譜，讓人味蕾大開(kāi)，更將美食浙江的精髓詮釋得極其透徹。美食浙江的文化魅力從何而來(lái)，成為了一個(gè)值得思考的話題。

鄉(xiāng)味，濃縮了故土情懷

為什么美食能引起這么多人的共鳴？食色，人性之最大的追求。凡熱愛(ài)生活的人，無(wú)不對(duì)食物充滿了好奇和喜愛(ài)。

古今中外，關(guān)于美食的美好故事不一而足，很多名人也是美食的愛(ài)好者。魯迅曾在《朝花夕拾》的引言里說(shuō)：“我有一時(shí)，曾經(jīng)屢次憶起兒時(shí)在故鄉(xiāng)所吃的蔬果：菱角，羅漢豆，茭白，香瓜。凡這些，都是極其鮮美可口的；都曾是使我思鄉(xiāng)的蠱惑?！?/p>

魯迅先生是紹興人，他很愛(ài)紹興的梅干菜，他在小說(shuō)《風(fēng)波》中就曾寫(xiě)到女人端出“烏黑的蒸干菜和松花黃的米飯，熱蓬蓬冒煙”的生活場(chǎng)景。紹興梅干菜色澤黃黑，脆落爽利，咀嚼起來(lái)滿口留香?！懊犯刹藷狻边@道家常菜，更將干菜同脂滑肉嫩的五花肉形成絕配。魯迅先生的日記中，也提到家里母親專門(mén)給他寄來(lái)各種菜干，即使無(wú)法回到故鄉(xiāng)，只消一碟烏黑干菜，一碗紹興黃酒，就能讓他深深地感受到故鄉(xiāng)的味道。

另一位大師豐子愷是浙江桐鄉(xiāng)人，他在《憶兒時(shí)》中記述了兒時(shí)與家人一起吃蟹的情景?！跋炔鹦纺_，后開(kāi)蟹斗……蟹螯上的骨頭可以拼成一只很好看的蝴蝶……父親吃蟹真是內(nèi)行，吃得非常干凈?！彼麑⒏赣H吃蟹的風(fēng)雅之事描寫(xiě)得淋漓盡致，平實(shí)的文字勾勒出江南人家的日常生活。

特別是在旅居他鄉(xiāng)時(shí)，豐子愷更是懷念家鄉(xiāng)美味。以至于在寓居上海的弄堂時(shí)，他依然保存著故鄉(xiāng)石門(mén)的生活習(xí)慣?！拔覀兪钦憬T(mén)灣人，住在上海，也只管說(shuō)石門(mén)灣的土白。吃石門(mén)灣的菜，度石門(mén)灣似的生活……這真是一種奇妙的生活?！?/p>

與石門(mén)相隔不遠(yuǎn)的水鄉(xiāng)烏鎮(zhèn)，是文學(xué)家茅盾的故鄉(xiāng)。茅盾對(duì)家鄉(xiāng)的“三珍齋”鹵味可謂情有獨(dú)鐘，上世紀(jì)二三十年代，居住在上海的他常常到上海百富門(mén)大陸商場(chǎng)的三珍齋（現(xiàn)今的漢口路上）購(gòu)買(mǎi)三珍齋醬雞、醬鴨饋贈(zèng)親友，因?yàn)檫@是烏鎮(zhèn)三珍齋老店每天乘快班輪船送往上海銷售的新鮮貨。

滲透在故鄉(xiāng)食物里的鄉(xiāng)愁，一點(diǎn)一滴地彌散開(kāi)來(lái)，牽動(dòng)的是人們對(duì)家鄉(xiāng)的眷戀。人們收獲、保存、烹飪、生產(chǎn)美食，并在其過(guò)程中留存和傳承食物所承載的味覺(jué)記憶、飲食習(xí)俗、文化樣態(tài)和家常情感。以食物為窗口，可以發(fā)現(xiàn)一個(gè)地方的文化傳統(tǒng)、家族觀念、生活態(tài)度與故土情懷。

鄉(xiāng)土美食的食材都取自當(dāng)?shù)?，保證最純正天然和接近本地的口味。嘉善人的棗香肉，在制作時(shí)用新鮮的稻草將肉捆扎一起熬燉，做出來(lái)的肉薄皮嫩滑味醇汁濃。溫州人的魚(yú)餅，用東海的鮸魚(yú)、馬鮫魚(yú)等新鮮海水魚(yú)為主原料，配以獨(dú)特的調(diào)味品，肉質(zhì)鮮嫩，鮮而不腥。

開(kāi)化人為什么對(duì)青螄念念不忘？青螄這種生長(zhǎng)于錢(qián)塘江源頭深谷幽澗里的生物，因?yàn)樯L(zhǎng)的水體高度凈潔，所以品質(zhì)優(yōu)良。青螄最地道的燒法也體現(xiàn)開(kāi)化特色，一把紫蘇，再佐以辣椒、胡椒、蔥姜等衢州人熱愛(ài)的辛香調(diào)料，不僅去腥提鮮，又能中和青螄的寒性，使青螄的鮮美在湯汁中展現(xiàn)得淋漓盡致。

一出開(kāi)化難覓青螄。這是青螄對(duì)環(huán)境的苛刻使然，也是開(kāi)化人對(duì)家鄉(xiāng)山水滿滿的自豪。每一個(gè)愛(ài)家鄉(xiāng)的人，都熱愛(ài)自家的傳統(tǒng)食物，美食是與一個(gè)地方的水土密不可分的。一飯一食里，是滿滿的故土情懷。

食材，繪制了人的圖譜

為什么美食可以作為一種共同的語(yǔ)言？因?yàn)樯嗉馔ㄏ蚴澜?。在地球上的角角落落，不論?lái)自什么種族，說(shuō)什么樣的方言，有什么樣的生活方式和習(xí)俗，只要?dú)w結(jié)到食物，大家都有共通的追求：健康、生態(tài)、綠色。越根植于自然，越被奉為美食中的上品。

食物與人一直具有天然密切的聯(lián)系：食材的種植獲得需要人，食材的烹調(diào)需要人，食物的享用者最終也是人。從這個(gè)意義上看，每一部美食寶典，也是一部探討人與食物關(guān)系的圖譜。

將世界美食和中國(guó)美食進(jìn)行比照，春耕、夏耘、秋收、冬藏，四季更替讓人類的飲食依時(shí)而變。在天地間升起煙火，用至精至誠(chéng)的心意烹制食物，在一餐一食之間，不同國(guó)家和民族的人們展示個(gè)性，發(fā)現(xiàn)了世界的奧妙。

美食生長(zhǎng)于傳統(tǒng)的沃土，在文化時(shí)空中給予人們珍貴的滋養(yǎng)。我們近觀的是飲食之美，遠(yuǎn)眺的是不同文化的魂魄。前不久有一則有趣的新聞，一對(duì)一句外語(yǔ)不會(huì)講的打工夫妻，在浙江大學(xué)邊上開(kāi)了一家意式披薩店，竟然吸引了很多外國(guó)留學(xué)生，大呼吃到了家鄉(xiāng)的味道。

有的時(shí)候，美食就像一股神奇的力量，拉近了人們的距離。作家木心曾長(zhǎng)期旅居海外，口味照理是“很四?！绷?。但他曾在《少年朝食》中寫(xiě)道：“清早陽(yáng)光/照明高墻一角/喜鵲喀喀叫/天井花壇蔥蘢/丫鬟悄聲報(bào)用膳/紫檀圓桌四碟端陳/姑蘇醬鴨/平湖糟蛋/撕蒸筍/豆干末子拌馬蘭頭/瑩白的暖暖香粳米粥/沒(méi)有比粥更溫柔的了……”幾樣清清淡淡的日常小食，將我們拉回到那個(gè)氤氳的江南清晨。

意大利人吃飯喜愛(ài)邊喝酒邊聊天，推崇慢餐，認(rèn)為這才是真正的飲食文化。這一點(diǎn)，和中國(guó)人的習(xí)俗十分相似。當(dāng)然，與西方“菜生而鮮、食分而餐”的飲食文化相比，中國(guó)菜更講究色、香、味、形、器，在一系列意境的追逐中，中國(guó)廚師像魔術(shù)師，將中國(guó)人對(duì)美食的理解演繹至化境。

中國(guó)美食文化如此博大精深，越來(lái)越風(fēng)靡全球。在世界很多國(guó)家和城市，甚至一些并不知名的小城，都會(huì)有一家或幾家中餐館在當(dāng)?shù)匦∮忻麣?，它們是華人的聚餐場(chǎng)所，也是很多當(dāng)?shù)厝讼矏?ài)的館子，宮爆雞丁、麻婆豆腐、酸菜魚(yú)……這些中國(guó)人耳熟能詳?shù)牟嗣?，老外說(shuō)起來(lái)也朗朗上口。

美食抵達(dá)每個(gè)人的心，這是文化離你最近的時(shí)候。杭州人為什么對(duì)片兒川情有獨(dú)鐘？這種用雪菜、筍片、肉絲作為澆頭的普通面條，透出的是江南春的味道。杭州人拍過(guò)一部電影叫《幸福的片兒川》，影片里幾個(gè)人物的生活理念特別有意思：劇中人老孫頭認(rèn)為，給孫子吃得好穿得好就是幸福。而孫子認(rèn)為，幸福是自己以及身邊的人都能快樂(lè)生活。隔壁面館的老板和伙計(jì)的幸福，則是店里的客人來(lái)得多一點(diǎn)再多一點(diǎn)。

作為杭州市井文化中比較有代表性的食物，在影片中，片兒川泛指杭州精神，故事中它不僅是一碗面，已經(jīng)化身成了杭州老百姓的寫(xiě)照。

朋友圈曾經(jīng)熱轉(zhuǎn)過(guò)一段視頻：一對(duì)浙江農(nóng)村的空巢老人，春節(jié)是他們最開(kāi)心的時(shí)刻。當(dāng)兒孫從城市回來(lái)，親手為兒孫制作可口的年糕，一家人吃著年糕說(shuō)著家常。而當(dāng)春節(jié)短暫的團(tuán)聚后，兒孫們各自開(kāi)車離去，曾經(jīng)熱鬧溫暖的家頓時(shí)空寂冷清下來(lái)，又只剩下這對(duì)老人。

這些城市化進(jìn)程中的令人熟悉的場(chǎng)景，不禁讓人心生諸多感慨。我們穿行于現(xiàn)代社會(huì)，親情的維系，更多的執(zhí)念是在一張飯桌子上的事。食物傳遞的是人情和人性，每一部走紅的美食書(shū)和美食紀(jì)錄片里，都藏著人間的味道，美好的食物、溫暖的故事，這些都是對(duì)奔波焦躁的心靈最好的撫慰和治愈。《食美浙江》叢書(shū)的吸引力，也是用一個(gè)個(gè)故事串聯(lián)起浙江各地的食物生態(tài)，告訴讀者：舌尖上什么是浙江，什么是浙江人心靈的寄托所在。

鄉(xiāng)村，醞釀著新的振興

為什么美食會(huì)在新的時(shí)代成為新的流行？因?yàn)椴卦诿朗忱锏牟粌H是味道，更是人生的精、氣、神。第三季《舌尖上的中國(guó)》海報(bào)，用了中國(guó)紅為主色調(diào)，加上一句“品味中國(guó)、品嘗人生”的宣傳語(yǔ)，讓人印象深刻。片子里最觸動(dòng)人心的畫(huà)面，是一個(gè)鏡頭里中國(guó)人吃飯的圓桌。鏡頭上拉，就變成了一個(gè)家族在吃飯；再上拉，變成了中國(guó)人的家宅。

一桌飯里，有滄海桑田，有家學(xué)流傳，有中國(guó)菜，更有中國(guó)人。挖掘美食浙江的深層基因，更是重新發(fā)現(xiàn)浙江精神的歷程。如果可以拍一部《舌尖上的浙江》，其實(shí)背后說(shuō)得更多的是“浙江人的活法”。

千島湖的魚(yú)“游”起來(lái)了。依托優(yōu)質(zhì)的淡水魚(yú)資源，通過(guò)創(chuàng)新經(jīng)營(yíng)，“淳”牌千島湖有機(jī)魚(yú)成為首家通過(guò)認(rèn)證的有機(jī)魚(yú)食品，淳安縣也因此被命名為“中國(guó)有機(jī)魚(yú)之鄉(xiāng)”。把“有形的魚(yú)”變?yōu)椤皠?chuàng)意的魚(yú)”，把“吃的魚(yú)”變?yōu)椤拔幕聂~(yú)”，千島湖實(shí)現(xiàn)了從傳統(tǒng)漁業(yè)、品牌漁業(yè)到文化漁業(yè)的轉(zhuǎn)型升級(jí)。

縉云的燒餅走向世界了。不久前，縉云收到了一份大禮——?dú)W盟知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)辦公室頒發(fā)的商標(biāo)注冊(cè)證書(shū)。近年來(lái)，當(dāng)?shù)赝ㄟ^(guò)國(guó)際化、品牌化、標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化、特色化建設(shè)，讓燒餅這一鄉(xiāng)土小吃走出鄉(xiāng)村，形成了一條特色產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈，帶動(dòng)了近兩萬(wàn)農(nóng)民增收。截至2017年底，燒餅品牌示范店多達(dá)431家，遍及全國(guó)各?。▍^(qū)、市）和歐美、東南亞等12個(gè)國(guó)家和地區(qū)。

這些原本生長(zhǎng)于鄉(xiāng)野的美食風(fēng)靡全國(guó)，背后是一群人的執(zhí)著與奮斗。鄉(xiāng)村振興，產(chǎn)業(yè)興旺是重點(diǎn)。鄉(xiāng)土美食，來(lái)源于“鄉(xiāng)”，又脫胎于“土”，是活著的民俗和歷史，也是生動(dòng)的人文地理，是鄉(xiāng)村振興的重要著力點(diǎn)。

美食里，總是藏著最好的中國(guó)故事。一代又一代人在灶臺(tái)邊，留存著最深的文化與記憶。當(dāng)下，在鄉(xiāng)村振興戰(zhàn)略指引下，更應(yīng)該著力發(fā)揮鄉(xiāng)土美食的文化價(jià)值。

很喜歡《舌尖上的中國(guó)》第一季的一段旁白：

這是巨變的中國(guó)，

人和食物，比任何時(shí)候都走得更快，

無(wú)論他們的腳步怎樣匆忙，

不管聚散和悲歡，

來(lái)得多么不由自主，

總有一種味道，以其獨(dú)有的方式，

每天三次，在舌尖上提醒著我們，

認(rèn)清明天的去向，

不忘昨日的來(lái)處。

is a book project supported by the Zhejiang Provincial Government， written by a team of specialists， and sponsored by the provincial media. Published in 2014， the book registers 165 dishes， 34 desserts and cakes， and ten multiple-courses home banquets. The recipes were selected from nearly 700 that came forward from grassroots kitchens across the province.

The book has inspired local talents and spawned a series of similar books on regional recipes. After all， Zhejiang has 11 administrative regions at the traditional city or prefectural level and the 700 recipes for the original book came from a much larger databank. One word about “rural” in the book title： modernization is something new only over the last 40 years. Before the beginning of the new era， a big part of the population of the province lived in rural regions； rural kitchens provided the best taste and memory for the general public. “Urban recipes” did not exist at all back then.

and other books have birthed many cultural topics. One general yet outstanding topic is the cultural charms of the rural recipes in Zhejiang cuisine.

This isnt a new topic， however. Ancient masters of literature living in Zhejiang discussed this topic and a number of masters of literature living in the province in the 20th century talked about delicious food of their hometowns in essays and books.

Lu Xun （1881-1936）， the most popular penname of Zhou Shuren， a native of Shaoxing， loved his hometown food. In an essay， he wrote about a favorite dish in his childhood years. In his diary he kept a list of dehydrated vegetables his mother had sent him all the way from hometown. Feng Zikai （1898-1975）， a painter and essayist， recalled a crab banquet at home in his childhood years in an essay titled “Childhood Memories”. The essay vividly describes how the father demolished a crab adroitly and elegantly. In another essay， he described his yearning for everything at hometown in Zhejiang even though he lived in Shanghai. “We are from Shimenwan， Zhejiang though we are now living in Shanghai. We speak the Shimenwan dialect， enjoy Shimenwan cuisine and lead a life in the Shimenwan style，” he proudly declared in the essay. Mao Dun （1896-1981）， a novelist from Wuzhen， mentioned in an essay how he enjoyed the ducks and the chickens seasoned in soy sauce made by a shop in his hometown. Living in Shanghai， he often went to the Shanghai branch of the shop from his hometown and bought the duck and the chicken and gave them to his relatives and friends as gifts. Back then， the shop in Wuzhen shipped the delicacies daily to Shanghai through the steamer service via the canal system that connected the northern Zhejiang to Shanghai.

Food connects people with their homes and keeps alive memories about childhood and people and hometown. Producing food is what agriculture is all about. For thousands of years， Zhejiang has been a powerhouse of food production. People take care of food crops， harvest them， place them into storage and cook them in various styles. The way they do these things has differentiated and localized lifestyles and memories. Rural recipes provide a time-space view of regional culture and tradition， family， worldviews， attitudes toward life， memories， and sentiments no matter whether a region is a prefecture， a county， a town， a village， or as small as a home.

The rural recipes in the book present a large range of local food ingredients. These recipes suggest that ingredients for a dish are all local and natural and the result is always purely natural and in compliance with the local taste. In Jiashan， for example， pork chop is bound with fresh straw directly from the rice paddy before pork is cooked. In Wenzhou， a fish pie is made of brown croaker or mackerel from the East China Sea. In Kaihua， snails are cooked with herbals to remove the unpleasant muddy smell and intensify the delicious flavor. Such local delicacies are usually confined to one region. Go beyond a region and you dont know what they are and even whether they exist.

Food is a universal language. No matter where you go and what language you speak. Nowadays people still want food to maintain health； moreover， people want food produced from a well- maintained ecological system and want this production system to remain “green”. Food and mankind have a natural bond. People produce food， cook food， and enjoy food. In this sense， every book of recipes explores this intimacy between food and humanity. When one browse recipe books from all over the world， one can see how people in different parts of the world explore wonders and mysteries of nature. Delicacies are from tradition and culture and in turn enrich tradition and culture. We appreciate the beauty of food when we sit down at a table and enjoy food. We see the charms of different cultures when recipes and delicacies are examined metaphysically. According to a news media in Hangzhou， a young couple opened a pizza restaurant by a campus of Zhejiang University. Though the couple speaks no foreign language， the pizza attracts a large following of international students.

Chinese food has long since gone global. Chinese restaurants can be found almost anywhere. They are the place where local Chinese community meets and enjoys food. Menus from Chinese restaurants are known to local gourmets.

Food in Zhejiang is no longer a rural thing now. As restaurants in both villages and cities are blossoming， food production is also flourishing. Qiandao Lake in Chunan County in the southwest of Hangzhou is now a big provider of organic fish. In 2017， Qiandao Lake Development Group alone sold 3.5 million kilos of organic fish worth 500 million yuan. Nowadays， fish farming in Chunan is a complete industrial chain， from fish farms to restaurants， from tourism to scientific researches.

Jinyun， a rural county in the south of Zhejiang， now enjoys a new fame as a maker of Jinyun （a kind of cake with some stuffing inside and black sesame seeds on the surface）. By the end of 2017， Jinyun industry in Jinyun topped 1.5 billion yuan in annual sales. Averagely， a cake maker earns about 100，000 yuan a year. About 20，000 rural residents are engaged in this business. Nowadays， there are 431 franchised Jinyun shops all over China as well as in 12 countries and regions across the world. In March， 2018， the county received the certificate of registration of Jinyun from European Union Intellectual Property Office， an important recognition of the trademark.