東浦黃酒小鎮(zhèn)：始于黃酒，忠于味蕾

朱申琪

紹興老酒出東浦，東浦十里聞酒香。東浦鎮(zhèn)位于紹興市西郊，距離紹興城區(qū)7公里，屬于寧紹平原。

清代的紹興東浦，油漆匠阿根師傅的母親即將迎來八十大壽。往常村里人祝壽，會挑一壇上好的黃酒，并在裝酒的陶壇外用紅紙寫上“壽”字以賀之，可阿根師傅覺得這陶壇既普通也不好看，于是突發(fā)奇想：能否在陶壇外用泥塑的形式，讓陶壇與眾不同一些？他日夜構(gòu)思，反復(fù)試驗，最終在儲酒的陶壇上泥塑了一位老壽星形象，還在四周雕刻出百花裝飾點綴，最后用自己的漆匠手藝，施之各種色彩，使原本平淡無奇的陶壇煥然一新。這不，阿根師傅的創(chuàng)意一經(jīng)實現(xiàn)，立刻傳遍了全東浦。日后，這種雕了花的酒壇就成為了紹興酒包裝的代表，梅蘭竹菊、神話傳說、山水風(fēng)光、經(jīng)典人物，無不成了雕花內(nèi)容，而這原本的紹興加飯酒，也多了一個雅稱：花雕。這便是花雕酒的來歷。

東浦自古就是“以楫為馬、以舟代車、以橋為路”的水鄉(xiāng)澤國，據(jù)不完全統(tǒng)計，境內(nèi)僅各式各樣的古橋就有216座，這些古橋的建造時間上自明清，下至民國，造型或拱梁結(jié)合，或拱涵配套，或長虹臥波，匠心別具，不一而足。在東浦古鎮(zhèn)的老街上，有一座“酒木橋”（又稱新橋），這座三孔石拱橋上雕刻有大楷楹聯(lián)：“浦北中心為酒國；橋西出口是鵝池?！秉c出了東浦的特產(chǎn)是酒。

要說東浦的酒為何如此出名，“天下靈泉匯鑒湖，制成佳釀色香殊”可一語道破。正所謂水乃酒中血，東浦境內(nèi)的鑒湖水，水質(zhì)清冽，水色澄澈，且含有特殊的礦物質(zhì)和微量元素，釀酒非他水可以代替。追溯起來，東浦的釀酒歷史迄今已近2000年，宋代的東浦，已是紹興釀酒業(yè)的中心?！澳擂r(nóng)家臘酒渾，豐年留客足雞豚。”東浦人陸游當(dāng)時在江南水鄉(xiāng)小村做客，農(nóng)家主人端出臘月里自釀的米酒招待，這酒的外表雖有些渾濁，但味道卻有如名酒般醇美，美酒佐肴饌，詩人好不盡興暢快。

四月微風(fēng)和煦，漫步在東浦古鎮(zhèn)的老街上，清人孫垓筆下的“村店村橋入畫時……水氣著意聞酒香”的意境悠然而起。老街上，街沿著河走，河連著石橋，人家瀕河而居。在一處天井，主人正準(zhǔn)備擺桌吃午飯。八仙桌上，一個大號的雪碧瓶里裝滿了乳清色的米酒。女主人旋開瓶蓋，往一只白瓷蘭花大碗中徐徐而倒，米酒的醇香立刻飄散開來。男主人端起大碗“喇”一口，配以一碟子爆炒螺螄，忘情而陶醉，正是“篤螺螄過酒，強盜來了勿肯走”。這乳清色的米酒是自家釀的老酒，屬于淋飯酒，它在釀制過程中因只加酒藥未入曲，并未著色，因此酒液之色宛如淘米后的水呈乳清色。這種米酒口感鮮爽，酒精度數(shù)也不高，很適宜大口飲用，尤其適合勞作之后感到體乏口干之人。也正因如此，這酒又極易叫人“上當(dāng)”，因為它的后勁很大，入口味甜卻容易喝醉。

石板路、小弄堂、馬頭墻、黑屋瓦，東浦老街上巷弄眾多，游覽時很容易繞迷糊。但走著、走著就會發(fā)現(xiàn)，老街上的每一條弄堂都是貫通的，不禁讓人遐想，以前做酒的人家若正好開壇吊酒，這綿長的老酒醇香定能鉆到隔壁巷子的最深處。

明清時期，東浦境內(nèi)已有酒作坊400多家，其中一家叫“孝貞”的酒坊，得到過明武宗御筆題寫的坊額和清乾隆皇帝御賜的金爵商標(biāo)，其出品的竹葉青酒成為進京貢酒。清至民國，酒坊在擴大釀酒量的同時，更加注重黃酒質(zhì)量的提高和品種的增加，除傳統(tǒng)的元紅、加飯、竹葉青等品種外，還增加了比較高檔的香雪、善釀等。1912年，東浦鄉(xiāng)云集釀坊的吳阿惠師傅用糯米飯、酒藥和糟燒試釀了一缸紹興酒，此酒釀造時不加麥曲，只用白色酒藥，且釀酒時以陳年糟燒代替水，成為一種特殊的“雙套酒”。因未加麥曲，該酒酒液淡黃清亮，其酒糟色如白雪，且糟燒味濃，酒香芬芳，因此取名為“香雪”。而善釀也是一種“雙套酒”，因釀酒徒兒在做酒的兌水環(huán)節(jié)，錯把元紅酒當(dāng)水加在酒缸里，可令人驚喜的是，這“錯釀”的酒比原先的更為甘醇。1915年，東浦人周清將自己釀造的云集信記美酒，送到美國舊金山巴拿馬太平洋萬國博覽會上，為紹興酒捧得了第一枚國際金獎，從此云集之釀聲名遠(yuǎn)播。

如今的東浦老街，正在進行古鎮(zhèn)核心區(qū)的綜合改造，臨河的古鎮(zhèn)建筑修繕，均遵循修舊如舊的宗旨。坐在廊檐下曬太陽的老奶奶直嘆老街變化大，她會十分嚴(yán)肅地告訴你：現(xiàn)在，再也不能去河埠頭洗衣服了，城管管得可嚴(yán)哩！令老人欣慰的是，老街的河水一天比一天清澈，她感覺自己就住在風(fēng)景里。沿著古鎮(zhèn)老街的青石板路走，便來到徐錫麟故居，辛亥革命先烈徐錫麟少年時期，曾在此讀書、生活。現(xiàn)在，東浦鎮(zhèn)上還保留著浙江省文物保護單位熱誠學(xué)校。熱誠學(xué)校創(chuàng)建于1904年，由徐錫麟和陳子英等人創(chuàng)辦，名稱取自徐錫麟所撰寫的對聯(lián)“有熱心人可與共學(xué)；具誠意者得入斯堂”。

越王句踐“簞醪勞師”，眾將士迎流而飲，士卒感奮；王羲之蘭亭修禊流觴曲水，以一觴一詠暢敘幽情；陸放翁一懷愁緒以酒澆愁，掛念著那紅酥手與黃滕酒。一日千載。目前，特色小鎮(zhèn)黃酒小鎮(zhèn)正在按照“一鎮(zhèn)兩區(qū)”的聯(lián)創(chuàng)模式建設(shè)，越城東浦片區(qū)依托豐富的古鎮(zhèn)資源，重點發(fā)展黃酒文化產(chǎn)業(yè)；柯橋湖塘片區(qū)依托雄厚的產(chǎn)業(yè)基礎(chǔ)，重點發(fā)展黃酒釀造產(chǎn)業(yè)。一座黃酒小鎮(zhèn)展示館，目前已在東浦片區(qū)的民俗文化街區(qū)內(nèi)落成。在展示館的酒香文化歷史展區(qū)內(nèi)，布展以東方人眼中的古鎮(zhèn)和西方人鏡頭下的水鄉(xiāng)為視角，展示了古鎮(zhèn)的歷史風(fēng)貌和風(fēng)土人情。

紹興是一座底蘊深厚的歷史文化名城，東浦黃酒小鎮(zhèn)也在縱橫聯(lián)動紹興相關(guān)的旅游景點。去過魯迅故里和咸亨酒店，溫上兩碗酒，要一碟茴香豆，再到東浦古鎮(zhèn)的老街走一走，這里有前店后坊式的觀光型黃酒手工作坊，釀酒師傅駐守在店里，游客可以體驗黃酒的制作過程和酒壇的浮雕刻畫工藝，也可以品嘗不同品種的黃酒，得到嗅覺、視覺、味覺的共同滿足。在這些手工作坊里，除了傳統(tǒng)的元紅、加飯、善釀、香雪、竹葉青、花雕、甜酒釀之外，如今還有了黃酒棒冰、黃酒巧克力、黃酒奶茶等新成員加入黃酒大家庭。

東浦黃酒小鎮(zhèn)核心區(qū)圍繞黃酒主題，除了黃酒工藝和酒器展示，也在尋覓同黃酒最般配的業(yè)態(tài)和衍生品。目前，黃酒小鎮(zhèn)已與繪璟軒順風(fēng)鏢局、四娘臭豆腐、陳記扯白糖、李記醬貨鋪、嵊州醉小籠、越窯日鑄茶、藕粉小鋪、泰辰居茶樓、享紹閣等9家商戶簽訂招商合同，2017年5月底，在核心區(qū)一期實現(xiàn)7家業(yè)態(tài)試營業(yè)。6月初，云集昌記酒坊和同泰當(dāng)鋪也將試營業(yè)。

美酒總是與美食相映成趣，在經(jīng)典的紹興菜中，有許多與酒有關(guān)的食物。紹興蓮花落《唐伯虎點秋香》中船老大出場時有段唱詞：“……搬出下飯廿四樣，魚、蝦、蟹、肉、醬，臘雞臘鴨臘大腸，糟雞糟鵝糟白鲞……”這里說到的糟雞、糟鵝、糟白鲞要用到糟燒酒。糟燒，是以黃酒壓榨后的糟粕為原料，經(jīng)進一步發(fā)酵后蒸餾而成的。紹興菜還有用大量黃酒入菜的醉系列：醉蟹、醉蝦、醉麻蛤等。醉系列，就是先把食材醉倒，再讓食客陶醉。

（本文照片由作者拍攝、提供）

Its All about Wine

The Wine-making Tradition of Dongpu Town

By Zhu Shenqi

Justifiably the crown jewel of rice wine artistry in China， Shaoxing wine is the product of a highly specialized technical process that has been perfected across several ancient Chinese dynasties. This time-tested wine-making craftsmanship not only plays a significant role in the culture of this world-renowned water town， but also makes cloning impossible.

Naturally endowed with fertile soil enriched by four distinctive seasons， Shaoxing has been born under a lucky star with regards to making wine： the Jianhu Lake area has long been a key player in the citys winemaking industry.

The wine-making history of Dongpu Town in Shaoxing dates back to 2，000 years ago. The town became Shaoxings wine-making leader in the Song Dynasty （960-1279）. Legend has it that the Song poet Lu You （1125-1210）， who was born in Dongpu， was a huge fan of Shaoxing wine throughout his life.

Seated in the western outskirts of Shaoxing City， the lovely town is also known for its large number of ancient bridges. The wine-making industry of Dongpu reached its heyday in the Ming （1368-1644） and Qing （1644-1911）， when the town had more than 400 wineries. The ‘zhuyeqing wine crafted by a brewery called Xiaozhen was highly valued by Emperor Wuzong and Emperor Qianlong. The famous Shaoxing ‘ rice wine was invented by a wine-maker in the town in 1912. The making of Xiangxue features the use of wine sediment in the making process as a substitute for water. The result is remarkably strong taste and the exemplary snow-white color of the wine waste due to the absence of the wheat that turns the color of wine darker. The period also saw the birth of ‘Shanniang， the recipe of which using 1 to 3-year-old Yuanhong wine to replace water in the process of fermentation which brings about its unique penetrating fragrance and extra sweetness to the final product. In 1915， a man named Zhou Qing brought his wine to the Panama-Pacific Exposition held in San Francisco and came home with the first gold medal won by Shaoxing Wine at an international fair.

The citys vigorous urban reconstruction based on cultural conservation has effected great changes to the life of the townspeople. Water pollution is being wiped out， with the towns history and culture well-retained. Dongpu is the birth place of Xu Xilin （1873 – 7 July 1907）， a Chinese revolutionary. Xu spent his childhood and adolescent years in the town. Xu set up a public school called Rechen in Shaoxing with Chen Ziying and several other like-minded friends in 1904. The school is now under provincial-level cultural protection.

For tourists who have visited such cultural hallmarks as the Former Residence of Lu Xun and Xianheng Restaurant in downtown Shaoxing， Dongpu Town offers a nice option for a relaxed ending of the cultural exploration of Chinas most famous water town. One can take a leisurely stroll and stop at one of the bustling little towns wine-making workshops to be soaked up in the intoxicating rice wine perfume and have a taste of the four core categories of Shaoxing wine： predominantly， ， and and lots of fancy wine-flavored snacks such as rice wine chocolate， rice wine milk tea and wine ice-cream stick.

What wine lovers can see in the ‘Shaoxing Wine Town in Dongpu is a first-hand experience of the historical development of Shaoxings wine tradition. Here one can feast the eye on the magnificent wine-making crafts and a dazzling collection of drinking vessels and cultural products related to the citys wine tradition， and peruse an array of time-honored Shaoxing signature snack shops， teahouses and groceries. Nine shops in the towns core area are on trial operation and open to tourists.

Rice wine plays an essential role in the culinary glory and uniqueness of Shaoxing， serving as a magic flavoring agent and forever inspiring the citys literary and artistic minds. The Shaoxing-developed art of using wine in culinary innovations is second to none. A magnificent example of the culinary boldness of Shaoxing people is its ‘drunken innovations， represented by ‘， shrimps in wine which uses male shrimps from the Jianhu Lake only.