染發(fā)劑的歷史變遷70英語(yǔ)史上的詞典時(shí)代

阿諾

Archaeologists have found evidence that as far back as the Neanderthals1）， humans had been using various things to change the color of both hair and skin. Ancient Gauls2） and Saxons dyed their hair various vibrant colors to show rank and to instill3） fear into enemies on the battlefield. Babylonian men sprinkled gold dust into their hair. By the time of the ancient Egyptians， Greeks and Romans， plant and animal matter were being used on a regular basis to color hair. The very first mixtures could only darken the hair， but methods were found to bleach4） hair blond， often by exposing the painted hair to sunlight for hours. Throughout history， various means have been used to produce a full spectrum5） of hair dye colors.

考古學(xué)家發(fā)現(xiàn)的證據(jù)表明，早在尼安德特人時(shí)期，人類就已經(jīng)在使用各種東西來(lái)改變頭發(fā)和皮膚的顏色了。古代高盧人和撒克遜人將頭發(fā)染成各種鮮艷的顏色，用來(lái)彰顯自己的地位和在戰(zhàn)場(chǎng)上威懾?cái)橙?。巴比倫男子則在頭發(fā)上撒金粉。到了古埃及人、古希臘人和古羅馬人時(shí)期，動(dòng)植物材料經(jīng)常被人們用來(lái)染發(fā)。最早的混合劑只能讓發(fā)色加深，不過(guò)人們后來(lái)又發(fā)現(xiàn)了將頭發(fā)淡化為金色的方法，這常常需要讓上了色的頭發(fā)在陽(yáng)光下曝曬幾個(gè)小時(shí)?？v觀歷史，人類已經(jīng)使用過(guò)形形色色的方法將頭發(fā)染成所有可能的顏色。

Hair Dye Through the Middle Ages， the Renaissance and the Victorian Era

中世紀(jì)、文藝復(fù)興時(shí)期及維多利亞時(shí)期的染發(fā)劑

In the Dark Ages6）， red hair first appeared as the result of a genetic mistake. For many years， people with natural red hair were subjected to suspicions of witchcraft. However， in the 16th century， Queen Elizabeth I's natural vibrant red hair made red hair more acceptable， and soon hair was being reddened with items such as henna7）， which dated back to the ancient Egyptians. During the Baroque period8）， when elaborate powdered wigs9） were popular， the colors ran the gamut of10） pastels11）， from pink and yellow， to even blue. Blond hair continued to be desirable， with caustic soda12） being used to bleach the hair. Victorian women used large hats with an open top to expose their treated hair to the strong sun. At the same time， gray hair was popular， bringing back hair powder to heighten the effect. For a time， silver nitrate13） was used to darken hair until overuse resulted in a purple color. It was this purple result that would eventually lead to the creation of the first synthetic hair dye.

歐洲中世紀(jì)時(shí)第一次出現(xiàn)了由于基因突變而形成的紅發(fā)。在很多年里，天生紅發(fā)的人都飽受猜疑，被認(rèn)為身懷巫術(shù)。不過(guò)到了16世紀(jì)，女王伊麗莎白一世那一頭天生的亮麗紅發(fā)使人們對(duì)紅發(fā)的態(tài)度有所改觀，很快人們開始用古埃及人就曾使用過(guò)的散沫花染劑等東西把頭發(fā)染成紅色。在巴洛克時(shí)期，造型精致、撒有發(fā)粉的假發(fā)很流行，假發(fā)的發(fā)色從粉色和黃色甚至到藍(lán)色，各種淺色無(wú)所不包。金發(fā)繼續(xù)受到歡迎，人們用苛性鈉將頭發(fā)淡化為金色。維多利亞時(shí)期的女子會(huì)戴著帽頂中空的大帽子，讓處理過(guò)的頭發(fā)接受強(qiáng)光的曝曬。與此同時(shí)，灰白色的頭發(fā)也很流行，人們重新開始使用發(fā)粉來(lái)增強(qiáng)這種效果。硝酸銀一度曾被用來(lái)加深發(fā)色，直到它的過(guò)量使用導(dǎo)致了頭發(fā)變紫。也正是這個(gè)變紫的后果最終促成了第一種合成染發(fā)劑的誕生。

1. Neanderthal [ni??nd?tɑ?l] n. （公元前12，000年居住于歐洲的）尼安德特人

2. Gaul [ɡ??l] n. 高盧人，鐵器時(shí)代居住在現(xiàn)今西歐的法國(guó)、比利時(shí)、意大利北部、荷蘭南部、瑞士西部和德國(guó)南部萊茵河西岸一帶的凱爾特人。

3. instill [?n?st?l] vt. 逐漸灌輸

4. bleach [bli?t?] v. （使）變成淡色；（使）脫色。n. 漂白劑

5. spectrum [?spektr?m] n. 范圍

6. Dark Ages： 指歐洲中世紀(jì)（大約從476年至14世紀(jì)歐洲文藝復(fù)興開始前的整個(gè)中世紀(jì)時(shí)期）。

Synthetic Hair Dye 合成染發(fā)劑

In the 1800s， chemists discovered para-phenylenediamine （PPD） and its use in the creation of synthetic dye. At the same time， it was found that hydrogen peroxide was a gentler and safer chemical for hair bleaching. These two discoveries paved the way for Eugène Schueller， who created the first commercial chemical hair dye， which he christened14） "Aureole". That product would go on to be known as "L'Oréal". The double-process for dying hair blond soon followed， and in 1932 hair dye was further refined by Lawrence Gelb who created hair dye that actually penetrated the shaft15） of the hair. His company would be called "Clairol". Later， in 1950， he would introduce the first one-step hair dye product that actually lightened hair without bleach. This ushered in the modern era of hair dye， including the ability for hair to be dyed at home.

19世紀(jì)，化學(xué)家發(fā)現(xiàn)了對(duì)苯二胺（PPD）及其在制作合成染料方面的應(yīng)用。同一時(shí)期，人們還發(fā)現(xiàn)過(guò)氧化氫是使頭發(fā)顏色變淡的更為溫和、安全的一種化學(xué)制劑。這兩項(xiàng)發(fā)現(xiàn)為歐仁·舒萊爾鋪平了道路，他制造出了第一款商用化學(xué)染發(fā)劑，并將其命名為“光環(huán)”。這一產(chǎn)品就是日后人們所熟知的“歐萊雅”。將頭發(fā)染成金色的兩步染發(fā)法很快也隨之出現(xiàn)。1932年，勞倫斯·蓋爾博對(duì)染發(fā)劑做了進(jìn)一步改進(jìn)，他制造的染發(fā)劑實(shí)際上可以滲透進(jìn)頭發(fā)的發(fā)干組織。他創(chuàng)建的公司后來(lái)被叫做“伊卡璐”。后來(lái)到了1950年，他又推出了第一款只需一步操作而無(wú)需漂白就可以使發(fā)色變淺的染發(fā)產(chǎn)品。這迎來(lái)了染發(fā)劑的現(xiàn)代時(shí)期，在這一時(shí)期人們?cè)诩依镆材茏约喝景l(fā)了。

7. henna [?hen?] n. 散沫花染劑（一種從散沫花葉提煉出來(lái)的棕紅色化妝染劑）

8. Baroque period： 巴洛克時(shí)期，西方藝術(shù)史上的一個(gè)時(shí)代，大致為17世紀(jì)，盛行巴洛克風(fēng)格的藝術(shù)。

9. wig [w?ɡ] n. 假發(fā)

10. run the gamut of： 涉及……的全部范圍

11. pastel [?p?stl] n. 淡色彩

12. caustic soda： 【化】苛性鈉；燒堿

13. silver nitrate： 【化】硝酸銀

14. christen [?kr?sn] vt. 給……取名

15. shaft [?ɑ?ft] n. （人發(fā)的）發(fā)干

16. condition [k?n?d??n] vt. （涂保護(hù)劑）使（頭發(fā)或皮膚）保持健康

17. exotic [?ɡ?z?t?k] adj. 奇異的，異乎尋常的

18. semi-： [前綴] （用于形容詞和名詞前構(gòu)成其他形容詞和名詞）表示“部分”

19. demi-： [前綴] （用于形容詞和名詞前構(gòu)成其他形容詞和名詞）表示“半”

20. ammonia [??m??ni?] n. 【化】氨

21. cortex [?k??teks] n. 【動(dòng)物學(xué)】皮質(zhì)；皮層

22. melanin [?mel?n?n] n. 黑色素

23. cuticle [?kju?t?kl] n. 角質(zhì)層

24. silicon [?s?l?k?n] n. 硅

Types of Hair Dye Available Today 如今市面上的染發(fā)劑類型

An infinite array of color is available today， from a vast selection of natural shades， to colors that don't occur in nature at all. Dyeing one's hair causes damage to the hair， but thanks to numerous conditioning16） products， most of this damage can be minimized.

There are four major variations in hair dye today：

Temporary Color. More like a paint or hair mask， these colors are applied on top of the hair and do not penetrate the hair shaft. Mostly available in bright and exotic17） colors， temporary hair colors will wash out of the hair.

Semi18）-permanent/Demi19）-permanent Color. This dye also coats the hair but unlike temporary color， it chemically bonds with the hair. It cannot be used to lighten hair， but adds vibrancy to the color. Semi-permanent color will eventually wash out. Demi-permanent color slightly penetrates the hair shaft， so it lasts longer.

Permanent Hair Color. Because it contains both ammonia20） and peroxide， permanent color allows dye to penetrate the cortex21） and break up the natural melanin22）. It fundamentally changes the hair， and cannot be washed out， although it can be subject to fading due to improper application， damage to the cuticle23） （also called over processing） and even exposure to sunlight.

如今，人們能買到無(wú)數(shù)種顏色的染發(fā)劑，從眾多天然的顏色到自然界根本不存在的顏色，應(yīng)有盡有。染發(fā)會(huì)損傷頭發(fā)，但是幸虧有眾多的護(hù)發(fā)產(chǎn)品，這類損傷大多能被降低到最低程度。

如今的染發(fā)劑主要可分為以下四種類型。

臨時(shí)性染發(fā)劑。這類染發(fā)劑更像是顏料或者發(fā)膜，它們被涂抹在頭發(fā)表面，不會(huì)滲入發(fā)干。臨時(shí)性染發(fā)劑大多用來(lái)染制鮮艷和奇特的發(fā)色，染出的發(fā)色可以被洗掉。

部分永久性/半永久性染發(fā)劑。這類染發(fā)劑也是覆蓋在頭發(fā)的表面，但是與臨時(shí)性染發(fā)劑不同的是，它會(huì)通過(guò)化學(xué)方式與頭發(fā)結(jié)合。它不能讓發(fā)色變淺，但是能讓發(fā)色變得更加鮮亮。部分永久性染發(fā)劑染出的發(fā)色最終會(huì)被洗掉，而半永久性染發(fā)劑由于輕微滲透進(jìn)發(fā)干，因此染發(fā)效果較為持久。

永久性染發(fā)劑。由于含有氨和過(guò)氧化物，永久性染發(fā)劑中的染料可以滲入發(fā)芯，分解天然的黑色素。它使頭發(fā)發(fā)生了徹底的改變，而且無(wú)法被洗掉，不過(guò)，使用不當(dāng)、角質(zhì)層損傷（也被稱作過(guò)度染發(fā)）甚至在陽(yáng)光下曝曬都會(huì)使它褪色。

The Future of Hair Color 發(fā)色的未來(lái)

The addition of silicon24） and other similar ingredients to conditioners have greatly reduced the amount of damage caused by repeated dyeing of the hair. Constant research continues to produce products that work at the hair's molecular level. Eventually， lasers may be used to color hair， as experiments have shown them to be very effective at removing hair color. However， controlling a laser to the degree needed to make subtle changes in a safe way to human hair on a living person may still be science fiction.

在護(hù)發(fā)素中添加硅和其他類似的成分，大大降低了反復(fù)染發(fā)對(duì)頭發(fā)造成的傷害。從分子水平上改變頭發(fā)顏色的產(chǎn)品也在不斷研發(fā)之中。也許終將有一天，激光也會(huì)被應(yīng)用于染發(fā)領(lǐng)域，因?yàn)閷?shí)驗(yàn)已表明，激光可以非常有效地去除頭發(fā)的顏色。不過(guò)，要想操控激光達(dá)到可安全地在活人的頭發(fā)上做出細(xì)微改變的程度，或許仍然只是一種科學(xué)幻想。