與蘇菲在內(nèi)羅畢長(zhǎng)頸鹿莊園喝咖啡

Having Coffee with Sophie at Giraffe Manor in Nairobi

A giraffe awakened me on my first morning in Nairobi. Just after 7：30 am， I heard a sound outside my hotel window， so I 1）cautiously opened the curtains. To my 2）astonishment， there before me stood a giraffe looking through the window of my second-story room， begging with her big brown eyes for breakfast.

Excited to be standing eye-to-eye with such a big creature， I cautiously opened the hotel room’s window just a little， only to have the giraffe push open the window the rest of the way with her head. Obviously she had done this before. Then， 3）in a flash， her ten-inch tongue went for a bucket of giraffe food that the hotel 4）staff had set on my window.

The giraffe， （which I later learned is named Sophie） 5）batted her long 6）eyelashes at me， and soon I was fearlessly hand-feeding her. When two other giraffes in the garden noticed Sophie was getting breakfast （and all my attention）， they came over and gathered together below my window. Before my first cup of coffee， I enjoyed the 7）thrill of a lifetime breakfast with giraffes in Africa.

Obviously， Giraffe 8）Manor is not your 9）average hotel. It’s a large English manor set on land near the 10）former coffee farm of writer Karen Blixen （author of Out of Africa）， and is one of Nairobi’s most famous 11）inns.

Ever since the 1930s， when European visitors first arrived in East Africa to enjoy 12）safaris， Giraffe Manor has been an extraordinary place to stay.

The most 13）fascinating thing about Giraffe Manor is not its historic manor house， or its classic 14）interiors filled with 15）antiques， fireplaces， china cups and silver tea services， books and paintings： rather， it’s the Rothschild’s giraffe that greets guests there each day.

They visit morning and evening， 16）poking their long necks into people’s windows in hopes of a meal， before returning to the safety of the forest.

After feeding the giraffe at my window， I took a hot shower， and then I put on a hotel robe and went to sit outside and drink coffee on the 17）terrace just outside French doors that open from my room （The Betty 18）Suite， named for one of the giraffes here）. The terrace sits just above the breakfast room of the inn， which I quickly realized was another place giraffes like to meet for breakfast with guests.

From the terrace， I could see the giraffes coming toward the manor house. In the distance， the 19）outline of the Ngong Hills， which Blixen wrote about in Out of Africa， were still covered in a 20）mist leftover from the night’s rain.

I dressed and walked down the wooden staircase into the great room of the manor. There， in the room’s front doorway， a staff member was feeding a large giraffe by hand.

I joined in the fun， even 21）petting the giraffe， Betty， for whom my room is named， and then I walked to the breakfast room.

To my astonishment， the long necks of several giraffes were 22）arched over the guests’ breakfast tables， and families were feeding the giraffes by hand.

Even children were taking part in the fun. The animals weren’t interested in our omelets， fruit and French toast， they only wanted their own food. While their size can be scary， the giraffes seem 23）at ease with people and safe to feed.

The biggest concern is that they might accidentally knock their heads against someone， so the staff is careful about teaching guests how to behave with these big， loveable creatures.

During a stay at Giraffe Manor， guests can walk across the Giraffe Manor 24）lawn to the Giraffe Centre to learn about the endangered Rothschild’s Giraffe， or take a guided walk around the giraffe 25）sanctuary.

From Giraffe Manor， sightseeing 26）vehicles can also show guests around the area. Local adventures include the Sheldrick Wildlife 27）Trust， where guests can meet， feed and even 28）adopt baby elephants， and visits to the Nairobi Animal 29）Orphanage and Education Centre， where guests can enjoy a walking safari and see native African animals up close.

The nearby Karen Blixen Museum is another popular attraction for Out of Africa fans who want to visit the historic home of famed explorer and writer Karen Blixen. The Kazuri 30）Beads factory and store is also another popular attraction； there local women make and sell colorful jewelry.

Giraffe Manor is a 31）high-end British hotel with the Downton Abbey style. With eight 32）luxury rooms and two standard rooms， each space feels like a suite， and all are 33）decorated in a 34）unique style.

The Manor’s food is delicious， so meals are a special event each evening. Even my 35）vegetarian friends were impressed.

At Giraffe Manor， guests enjoy 36）full-board during their stay， which means all meals and most drinks are included， as is all the giraffe food you’ll need to feed your tall new friends. As I left Giraffe Manor， I could see Sophie looking longingly toward my bedroom window and wishing I’d come back. I’m sure I will someday， and I hope you will too. You’ll never forget your first morning at Giraffe Manor.

在內(nèi)羅畢的第一個(gè)清晨，我被長(zhǎng)頸鹿叫醒了。七點(diǎn)半剛過，我就聽到酒店的窗外傳來聲響。我小心翼翼地拉開窗簾，赫然發(fā)現(xiàn)面前站著一只長(zhǎng)頸鹿，正透過我在酒店二樓的房間窗戶往里張望。它眨著一對(duì)棕色大眼，想討份早餐。

站在如此龐大的生物面前與之四目相對(duì)，無比激動(dòng)的我小心翼翼地把酒店房間的窗戶打開了一條縫，沒想到它卻把窗子全部推開了—顯然它以前就這么做過。接著一眨眼，它已經(jīng)把10英寸（25.4厘米）長(zhǎng)的舌頭伸向了酒店員工放在我窗臺(tái)上的長(zhǎng)頸鹿飼料。

這頭長(zhǎng)頸鹿（后來我才知道它叫蘇菲）撲閃著長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的睫毛看著我，很快我就壯起了膽，親手喂起它來。這時(shí)，花園里的其他兩只長(zhǎng)頸鹿發(fā)現(xiàn)蘇菲已經(jīng)贏得了早餐（和我全部的注意力），便也走了過來，聚集在我的窗下。在喝第一杯咖啡之前，我已經(jīng)先和非洲的長(zhǎng)頸鹿一起享用了一頓畢生難忘的早餐了。

長(zhǎng)頸鹿莊園顯然不是一家普通的酒店。這座英式大莊園位于作家卡倫·布里克森（《走出非洲》的作者）以前的咖啡農(nóng)場(chǎng)附近，是內(nèi)羅畢最負(fù)盛名的旅館之一。

自20世紀(jì)30年代歐洲游客開始到東非游獵以來，長(zhǎng)頸鹿莊園便一直是非一般的宿地。

長(zhǎng)頸鹿莊園最吸引人的地方，不是歷史悠久的莊園，也不是放滿古董、壁爐、瓷杯、銀制茶具和書畫的古典室內(nèi)裝潢，而是每天在那里歡迎客人的羅氏長(zhǎng)頸鹿。

它們白天和晚上都在這里出沒。它們把長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的脖子探入窗內(nèi)，希望先在這里填飽肚子，再返回安全的森林。

在窗前喂完長(zhǎng)頸鹿之后，我去洗了個(gè)熱水澡，換上酒店的浴袍，走到房間（我的房間叫貝蒂套房，以這里的一只長(zhǎng)頸鹿命名）法式落地窗外的陽(yáng)臺(tái)，坐下來喝咖啡。陽(yáng)臺(tái)下方正是酒店的早餐室，我很快就發(fā)現(xiàn)長(zhǎng)頸鹿也很喜歡到那里向客人討早餐吃。

我從陽(yáng)臺(tái)上可以望見長(zhǎng)頸鹿朝莊園走來。布里克森在《走出非洲》里寫到了恩貢山，此時(shí)，它遙遠(yuǎn)的輪廓仍然籠罩在昨晚雨后未散的薄霧當(dāng)中。

我換好衣服，下了木樓梯，走進(jìn)莊園的大廳。在大堂門口，一名員工正在用手給一只大長(zhǎng)頸鹿喂食。

我也去湊熱鬧，還摸了摸這頭長(zhǎng)頸鹿。它叫貝蒂，我的房間就是以它命名的。然后我向早餐室走去。

沒想到，幾只長(zhǎng)頸鹿正把長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)的脖子垂到客人的餐桌上，幾家人正在用手給它們喂食。

就連小孩子也樂在其中。這些動(dòng)物對(duì)我們的煎蛋、水果和法國(guó)吐司并不感興趣，它們只要自己的食物。盡管長(zhǎng)頸鹿的體型大得嚇人，但它們似乎與人相處得十分自在，給它們喂食也很安全。

最大的問題是它們的頭可能會(huì)不小心撞到人，所以工作人員會(huì)細(xì)心地教客人如何與這些可愛的大型動(dòng)物相處。

住在長(zhǎng)頸鹿莊園期間，客人可以穿過長(zhǎng)頸鹿莊園的草坪，走到長(zhǎng)頸鹿中心，去了解一下瀕危的羅氏長(zhǎng)頸鹿，或者與導(dǎo)游一起參觀長(zhǎng)頸鹿庇護(hù)所。

從長(zhǎng)頸鹿莊園出發(fā)的觀光車也可以帶客人游覽周邊地區(qū)。要參加當(dāng)?shù)氐奶诫U(xiǎn)活動(dòng)，可以去謝爾德里克野生動(dòng)植物信托基金，客人可以在那里看到小象，給它們喂食，甚至還可以領(lǐng)養(yǎng)小象；客人也可以去內(nèi)羅畢動(dòng)物孤兒院和教育中心，在那里徒步參觀野生動(dòng)物園，近距離觀察非洲本土動(dòng)物。

對(duì)于想?yún)⒂^著名探險(xiǎn)家及作家卡倫·布里克森故居的《走出非洲》迷們來說，附近的卡倫·布里克森博物館是另一處人氣景點(diǎn)?？ㄗ胬镏樽庸S和商店也是很受歡迎的景點(diǎn)之一，當(dāng)?shù)貗D女在那里制作和出售五顏六色的珠寶。

長(zhǎng)頸鹿莊園是一個(gè)帶有唐頓莊園風(fēng)格的高端英式酒店，有八間豪華客房和兩個(gè)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)間，每個(gè)房間都像一間套房，裝修風(fēng)格各異。

長(zhǎng)頸鹿莊園的食物很美味，所以每天的晚餐都是一件值得期待的盛事，連我的素食朋友都對(duì)這里的美食難以忘懷。

住在長(zhǎng)頸鹿莊園期間，客人的伙食是全包的，包括一日三餐和大多數(shù)飲料，以及你喂給高大的新朋友—長(zhǎng)頸鹿的所有飼料。在離開長(zhǎng)頸鹿莊園的時(shí)候，我看到蘇菲望眼欲穿地望著我的臥室窗戶，盼著我再次回來。我相信有一天我會(huì)回來的，希望你也一樣。你永遠(yuǎn)不會(huì)忘記在長(zhǎng)頸鹿莊園度過的第一個(gè)清晨。

卡倫·布里克森

（1885—1962），丹麥著名女作家。生于丹麥魯斯特，曾在哥本哈根、巴黎、羅馬攻讀藝術(shù)。婚后不久即旅居肯尼亞經(jīng)營(yíng)咖啡種植園。1931年返回丹麥，一直從事文學(xué)創(chuàng)作?？▊悺げ祭锟松@得安徒生獎(jiǎng)和彭托皮丹獎(jiǎng)，兩次獲得諾貝爾獎(jiǎng)提名，與安徒生并稱為丹麥的“文學(xué)國(guó)寶”。她的成名作為1934年出版的《哥特故事七則》。她最知名的作品莫過于自傳小說《走出非洲》，同名電影曾一舉斬獲奧斯卡七項(xiàng)大獎(jiǎng)。她的作品集主要有：《冬天的故事》（1942）、《最后的故事》（1957）、《命運(yùn)女神軼事》（1958）、《草地綠蔭》（1960）、《埃赫雷加德》（1963）等等。她的作品受到海明威、杜魯門等人的廣泛喜愛，瑞典學(xué)院的常任秘書彼得·恩德格曾經(jīng)將諾貝爾獎(jiǎng)委員會(huì)未頒發(fā)文學(xué)獎(jiǎng)給卡倫稱為“一個(gè)失誤”。

羅氏長(zhǎng)頸鹿

是一種瀕臨滅絕的物種。這種長(zhǎng)頸鹿是世界上最大的哺乳動(dòng)物之一，雄性羅氏長(zhǎng)頸鹿重量可達(dá)1.1噸，屬群居物種。目前尚生存在野生狀態(tài)下的羅氏長(zhǎng)頸鹿不到670頭，其中60%生活在肯尼亞，其余生活在烏干達(dá)和少數(shù)其他國(guó)家。

1） cautiously [5kC：FEslI] ad. 慎重地

2） astonishment [E5st？nIFmEnt] n. 大吃一驚

3） in a flash 一瞬間

4） staff [stB：f] n. （全體）工作人員

5） bat [bAt] v. 眨眼

6） eyelash [5aIlAF] n. 睫毛

7） thrill [WrIl] n. 興奮，激動(dòng)

8） manor [5mAnE] n. 領(lǐng)地，莊園

9） average [5AvErIdV] a. 一般的，平均的

10） former [5fC：mE] a. 以前的，從前的

11） inn [In] n. 旅館

12） safari [sE5fB：rI] n.（在非洲的）狩獵旅行

13） fascinating [5fAsIneItIN] a. 迷人的，醉人的

14） interior [In5tIErIE] a. 內(nèi)部的

15） antique [An5ti：k] n. 古董

16） poke [pEJk] v. 探出，露出

17） terrace [5terEs] n. 陽(yáng)臺(tái)

18） suite [swi：t] n. 套房

19） outline [5aJtlaIn] n. 輪廓

20） mist [mIst] n. 薄霧

21） pet [pet] v. 擁抱，愛撫

22） arch [B：tF] v. 使彎成拱

23） at ease 自由自在

24） lawn [lC：n] n. 草坪

25） sanctuary [5sANktjJErI] n. 庇護(hù)所；動(dòng)物保護(hù)區(qū)

26） vehicle [5vi：IkEl] n. 交通工具

27） trust [trQst] n. 托管金

28） adopt [E5d？pt] v. 收養(yǎng)

29） orphanage [5C：fEnIdV] n. 孤兒院

30） bead [bi：d] n. 有孔的小珠

31） high-end 高檔的

32） luxury [5lQkFErI] n. 奢侈，豪華

33） decorate [5dekEreIt] v. 裝飾

34） unique [jJ5ni：k] a. 獨(dú)一無二的

35） vegetarian [vedVI5teErIEn] n. 素食者

36） full-board 全膳宿服務(wù)