莫斯塔爾：一窺波黑的戰(zhàn)火肆虐史

by Katherine and Romeo Belarmino德孟 譯

莫斯塔爾：一窺波黑的戰(zhàn)火肆虐史

1)Mostar: A Look at2)Bosnia and Herzegovina’s War-Torn Past

by Katherine and Romeo Belarmino德孟 譯

visiting Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina was an eyeopening and3)humbling experience. When we traveled to Croatia, we took a day trip to Mostar.

While we were prepared to see signs of the war, actually seeing them in person was very4)startling. We had been in5)Dubrovnik, which had also been directly hit by war, but everything there has been rebuilt. So Mostar was our first sighting of bullet hole ridden and6)gutted buildings in ruins. Living in a country where home-based wars are in our far past and current wars are an ocean away, it was very sobering to see physical7)manifestations of war everywhere and realize that the people of Mostar, and many other areas of the former Yugoslavia, lived with war raging around them daily.

After our day in Mostar, I can say it is very touristy, but not in a way that should be a9)turnoff to visitors. The streets were lined with shops selling8)trinkets,

到波斯尼亞和黑塞哥維那的莫斯塔爾市觀光是一次令人大開眼界又教人謙虛的經歷。我們去克羅地亞旅行的時候，去莫斯塔爾游覽了一天。

盡管我們做好了要看戰(zhàn)爭遺跡的心理準備，但親眼看到時還是十分驚詫的。杜布羅夫尼克也是個被戰(zhàn)火直接侵襲過的城市，之前我們已經到過那里，但是那里的一切都經過了重建。所以在莫斯塔爾，我們才第一次見到彈孔累累、被毀劫一空的樓房廢墟。生活在我們自己的國家，在本土開戰(zhàn)的戰(zhàn)爭已然是久遠的歷史，而如今的戰(zhàn)爭又在大洋的另一邊爆發(fā)，當看到隨處皆是實實在在的戰(zhàn)爭痕跡，意識到莫斯塔爾和其他原南斯拉夫地區(qū)的人民每日與狂暴的戰(zhàn)爭共眠，讓人從麻木中幡然醒悟。

在莫斯塔爾游覽了一天之后，我會說這里游客非常爆滿，但這種擁擠倒不至于令游客討厭。街道兩旁小飾品店林立。

1991年6月，前南斯拉夫解體，波黑議會在穆斯林族和克羅地亞族的支持下宣布波黑獨立，而塞爾維亞族反對獨立并宣布脫離波黑。波黑這三個主要民族間的矛盾驟然激化，于1992年爆發(fā)內戰(zhàn)，1995年12月結束。戰(zhàn)后，波黑的莫斯塔爾市在化為廢墟的場所建設了新的住宅和購物中心，以極快的速度復興。莫斯塔爾是波黑最炎熱的城市，最高氣溫曾達45℃。以莫斯塔爾古橋為中心的舊市區(qū)是其最有名的觀光地，殘存的奧斯曼時期的公共浴場、鐘樓（sahat kula）、猶太會堂和猶太教徒的公墓、眾多教會、清真寺、方濟各會修道院、16至19世紀的奧斯曼住宅、塔拉和赫勒比耶兩座古塔都值得一覽。

We reached our first site, the famous Stari Most, the Old Bridge. This striking single-arch stone bridge was built from 1557 to 1566. There are large towers on either side of the bridge, one of which houses a museum. The sad history of the bridge is that while it was able to stand for over 400 years, and even10)withstood the weight of Nazi tanks, in 1993 the bridge was11)shelled and collapsed into the river below. Amazingly, after the war ended, the bridge was rebuilt with stone from the original12)quarry in the exact way it was built so long ago. Nowadays, local young men hang out on the bridge in13)speedos waiting for someone to pay them to jump into the chilly Neretva River below.

After taking in the view from atop the bridge and touring the bridge’s museum, we visited our first14)mosque, Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque. The nice thing about visiting the mosques in the more touristy part of Mostar is that they are a little more 15)lenient with visitors. You can still wear modest clothing (which can be diffcult when it is so hot), but women are not required to wear scarves and it is not necessary to remove your shoes.

我們到達了第一個景點，著名的莫斯塔爾古橋。這座引人注目的單拱石橋建于公元1557年至1566年。橋的兩邊矗立著高大的塔樓，其中一座塔樓里設有博物館。此橋有一段令人嘆惋的歷史，那就是雖然它能夠屹立四百多年不倒，甚至連納粹坦克的重量都經受住了，卻在1993年遭遇炮擊，倒塌在了下方的河流里。令人驚詫的是，戰(zhàn)爭結束后，人們按照最初建造的方式重建了這座橋，采用的石頭和原來的石頭也來自同一個采石場。如今，當?shù)氐哪贻p人們穿著泳衣在橋上閑逛，等著有人付錢看他們跳進下面冰冷的內雷特瓦河里。

在古橋上欣賞完風景，游覽了一圈古橋的博物館以后，我們參觀了第一座清真寺，科斯基·穆罕默德-帕夏清真寺。在莫斯塔爾較熱門的區(qū)域參觀清真寺的好處是對游客的要求沒那么苛刻。你還是要衣著端莊（天氣很熱時會很難受），但不要求女士戴頭巾，進門也不需要脫鞋。

1) Mostar ['m??stɑ?(r)] n. 莫斯塔爾，波黑南部城市，位于內雷特瓦河畔，東北距薩拉熱窩約80公里，該市名稱來源于其著名的古橋Stari Most

2) Bosnia and Herzegovina 波斯尼亞和黑塞哥維那共和國，簡稱波黑或波斯尼亞，前南斯拉夫聯(lián)邦的共和國之一，介于克羅地亞和塞爾維亞兩共和國之間，首都為薩拉熱窩

3) humbling ['h?mbl??] adj. 令人羞辱的，令人感到卑微的

4) startling ['stɑ?tl??] adj. 令人吃驚的

5) Dubrovnik ['d?br?v,n?k] n. 杜布羅夫尼克，古稱拉古薩（Ragusa），克羅地亞東南部港口城市，最大旅游中心和療養(yǎng)勝地，號稱“亞得里亞海之珠”

6) gut [g?t] v. 把（城市、房屋等）搶劫一空，（從內部）劫掠或毀壞

7) manifestation [m?n?fe'ste??(?)n] n. 表現(xiàn)形式，顯示

8) turnoff ['tз?n?f] n. 讓人厭煩、倒胃口的東西或人

9) trinket ['tr??k?t] n. 小裝飾品，不值錢的珠寶

10) withstand [w?e'st?nd] v. 抵擋，經受住

11) shell [?el] v. 炮轟，射擊

12) quarry ['kw?r?] n. 采石場，石礦，石坑

13) Speedo ['spi?d??] n. 速比濤（或蘇碧濤），著名澳大利亞泳裝品牌，其“鯊魚皮”系列泳裝可幫助游泳運動員大幅提高成績，被國際泳聯(lián)禁止在比賽中穿著

14) mosque [m?sk] n. 清真寺

The grounds of Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque offer a beautiful view of Stari Most. You can also climb to the top of the16)minaret for another stunning view. Muslims do not make images of living creatures in mosques, so the colors of the mosque’s interior were created from colorful rugs and bright painted forms on the white walls and ceilings.

After visiting the mosque we17)veered away from the main tourist18)drag one street over to the New Muslim Cemetery. Before the war, it was a park. But during the war, the more exposed cemeteries were unusable because visitors were visible to19)snipers, so this tree protected park became a cemetery. Visiting the cemetery was moving and20)heartwrenching. Every single tombstone is dated 1993, 1994, or 1995. I think this hit me even more than the structures21)riddled with bullet holes and the completely gutted buildings with full-grown trees growing up the middle. I’ve always been a fan of cemeteries because I like to feel the people buried there had long fulflling lives, surrounded by people that loved them enough to build 22)memorials to them. The occupants of these tombs had their lives stolen away from them far too soon.

從科斯基·穆罕默德-帕夏清真寺的角度剛好能欣賞到莫斯塔爾古橋的美景。你還可以爬到宣禮塔頂欣賞另一番美景。清真寺里不會有任何生靈的形象出現(xiàn)，因此寺內的色彩來自五顏六色的毯子，以及白墻和天花板上著色鮮明的窗格。

參觀完清真寺以后，我們離開主要的游覽線路，走了一條街的距離到達新穆斯林公墓。戰(zhàn)前，這里是個公園。但在戰(zhàn)爭期間，其他比較暴露的墓地不能再使用了，因為祭拜者會暴露在狙擊手的槍口下，因此這個樹木掩映的公園就成了公墓。參觀這個公墓讓人為之動容和痛心。每一塊墓碑上刻的日期都是1993年、1994年或1995年。我覺得這比彈痕密布的建筑和被毀劫一空、中間長出大樹的樓房更打動我。我一直喜歡參觀墓地，因為我喜歡感受埋葬在那里的人有過綿長而圓滿的人生，圍繞在他們墓前的人都是愿為他們立紀念碑的至親至愛。然而這些墳墓的主人都過早地被奪走了生命。

Being outside of the main tourist street kind of took me out of my comfort zone. I didn’t feel unsafe, but I did feel like an outsider. The residents stared at us, and I couldn’t tell what they were thinking.

Another reason we strayed from the main street was to visit the Museum of Herzegovina. Unfortunately, this wish was denied. Something that also happened to us frequently in Dubrovnik was that the museum did not have change for our money. I have never encountered this elsewhere. I felt like23)Pretty Woman, except instead of being denied the opportunity to shop, I was denied the opportunity to visit a museum. Seriously, does it get any nerdier than that? If at all possible, acquire small change to pay entrance fees, though in my experience, this is easier said than done.

Our next stop was the Biscevic Turkish House, one of Mostar’s traditional Turkish-style homes that are open to visitors. The house was built in the 1600s and has beautiful woodwork on the inside and intricate river stone work on the outside. There is even a box of traditional costumes that can be tried on for pictures.

離開了主要的觀光街道也就讓我離開了心理舒適區(qū)。我并沒有感到不安全，但我確實覺得自己像個局外人。居民們盯著我們，而我看不出來他們在想什么。

我們離開主要街道的另一個原因是為了參觀黑塞哥維那博物館。不幸的是，這個愿望落空了。在杜布羅夫尼克，我們也頻繁遭遇博物館因沒有我們的貨幣而沒法找零的情況。我還沒在其他地方遇到過這種情況。我感覺自己像《風月俏佳人》里的女主人公，只不過被剝奪的并非購物的機會，而是參觀博物館的機會。說真的，還有比這更傻的嗎？要是可能的話，先去換小額零錢再來付門票錢，盡管根據(jù)我的經驗，這說起來容易，做起來難。

我們的下一站是比謝維奇土耳其屋，是向游客開放的莫斯塔爾傳統(tǒng)土耳其風格民居之一。這所房子建于17世紀，內有美麗的木制品，外有紛繁復雜的鵝卵石(鋪的地面)。甚至還有一箱子的傳統(tǒng)服裝，可供游客穿上拍照。

15) lenient ['li?n??nt] adj. 寬厚的，仁慈的，不嚴格的

16) minaret ['m?n?ret] n. 宣禮塔，（伊斯蘭教寺院的）尖塔

17) veer [v??(r)] v. 改變方向，轉向

18) drag [dr?g] n. <俚>道路，街道

19) sniper ['sna?p?] n. <軍>狙擊手

20) heart-wrenching adj. 痛徹心扉的

21) riddle with 在…上打許多洞

22) memorial [m?'m??r??l] n. 紀念物，紀念碑，紀念館

23) Pretty Woman 《風月俏佳人》，1990年的美國愛情喜劇片，茱莉亞·羅伯茨飾演的女主人公由于衣著寒磣且不端莊而在高級時裝店遭遇逐客令

Our last stop was Karadozbeg Mosque. This mosque was built just before Stari Most was started. It was simpler and not as colorful as the frst we visited, but was still beautiful and has retained some of its original decorations. There is a cemetery adjacent to this mosque, also flled with tombstones from the war.

On the way back we did a little souvenir shopping. There are many different types of articles to choose from, including hammered-copper items, rugs, scarves, and war24)remnant25)paraphernalia. Also be sure to try borek (or burek), a traditional street food made with spiraled crispy26)phyllo dough flled with cheese and meat.

I felt Mostar was a little different from the typical day trip destination. Later in our trip we encountered some travelers who were deciding whether or not to go to Mostar, and when I responded to their question of if it was worth it, I hesitated. Mostar is beautiful and has very different sites with its bridge, mosques, and Turkish-style homes. However, for me, it had more to do with learning a little about a culture I am very unfamiliar with and refecting on a diffcult notso-distant war-torn past, something I hope I will never have to experience personally.

我們的最后一站是卡拉多茲堡清真寺。這座清真寺剛好在莫斯塔爾古橋動工前建成。它比較簡約，沒有我們參觀的第一座清真寺那么色彩繽紛，但也很美，保留了一些原始的裝飾。該寺旁邊有一個墓地，也立滿了戰(zhàn)爭死難者的墓碑。

回去的路上我們購買了一點紀念品。紀念品有很多不同種類的物件可以選擇，包括鍛銅制品、地毯、圍巾和戰(zhàn)爭遺留用品。還有一定得嘗嘗布列克餡餅，這是一種傳統(tǒng)的街頭小吃，螺旋狀，用酥脆的薄生面餅包裹奶酪和肉餡做成。

我感到莫斯塔爾和典型的一日游目的地有所不同。之后的旅途中，我們遇到一些在考慮要不要去莫斯塔爾的游客，當我回答他們是否值得一去的這個問題時，我猶豫了。莫斯塔爾很美，也有著古橋、清真寺和土耳其式民居等獨特的景點。然而對我來說，游覽莫斯塔爾有著更重要的意義，就是去了解一點對我而言很陌生的文化，回顧一段晦澀的、不太久遠而我永遠都不想親身經歷的戰(zhàn)爭肆虐史。

24) remnant ['remn?nt] adj. 剩余的，殘留的

25) paraphernalia [p?r?f?'ne?l??] n. 隨身用品，裝備，行頭

26) phyllo ['fi?l??] n. （制酥點用的）搟成極薄層的生面

小資料

Yugoslavia

南斯拉夫，1929年至2003年建立于南歐巴爾干半島上的數(shù)個國家的總稱，包括塞爾維亞、克羅地亞、斯洛文尼亞、波斯尼亞和黑塞哥維那、馬其頓、黑山六個共和國。1992年至2006年間，除了塞爾維亞人之外的各民族紛紛獨立建國，此國家逐漸解體，成為一個歷史名詞。

Stari Most

莫斯塔爾古橋（塞爾維亞-克羅地亞語，直譯為“古老的橋”），橫跨內雷特瓦河。橋寬4米，長29米，橋的兩頭各有一個石砌橋頭堡。該橋于16世紀剛建成時，是當時世界上最寬的人工建造拱橋。城里的年輕男子從橋上跳入內雷特瓦河是1664年之前就有的傳統(tǒng)，每年7月末還有正式的跳水比賽，內雷特瓦河非常寒冷，因此這是個危險的壯舉。