浪漫里斯本——葡萄牙式完美

葡萄牙首都里斯本有著溫暖的地中海氣候和詩(shī)意般的海濱位置，陽(yáng)光照亮了它年代久遠(yuǎn)的石灰?guī)r墻，因而這個(gè)城市又被稱為“白色之城”。雖然作為旅游目的地而言，里斯本不及巴黎或羅馬那么受歡迎，但它有著獨(dú)特而迷人的舊日風(fēng)情。這座城市建于七座連綿起伏的山丘之上，有許多歷史古跡、公共廣場(chǎng)和鑲嵌著七色彩瓦的莊嚴(yán)建筑。在這片山坡地形上，蜿蜒曲折的狹窄鵝卵石小巷聯(lián)通各處，組成一幅懷舊的畫(huà)面。

There are not many places left in Europe where it’s still possible to be a romantic， but Lisbon probably tops the shortlist[候選名單]. Even smiling， middle-aged couples walk along its leafy avenues[林蔭道] and sun-bleached[使褪色] plazas as if out on a first date.

Lisbon’s charm has as much to do with everyday sights as its reasonable prices and friendly people. The locals are so laid-back[懶散的] that it’s a wonder Portugal ever managed to get an empire together.

Lisbon， built on seven hills， is also one of Europe’s most accessible cities for exploring on foot.

And it is not just tourists who are attracted to the delights of the Portuguese capital—film-makers also flock[成群地來(lái)] there. Among the latest movies to be made in the city is Night Train To Lisbon. Jeremy Irons注1 plays a professor who abandons[放棄] his job and heads to Lisbon on a journey of self-discovery.

Irons was certainly impressed by the city， describing it as “an absolute jewel.”

He says， “Lisbon is a glorious city to shoot in. Not only architecturally because of its extraordinary buildings， but there’s this huge friendliness I felt from its wonderful people. I hope it won’t be long before I come back and make another movie here.”

The film was shot largely in Lisbon’s historic districts during the spring and made use of streets such as Rua Misericordia， the Baixa (city centre)， and Rua Augusta.

“Lisbon has a very special atmosphere[氣氛]，” says Bille August， Night Train To Lisbon’s Danish director.

“It has a decadence[頹廢] and melancholy[憂郁] that comes from lost grandeur[莊嚴(yán)]. It’s a mysterious place but there’s certain beauty to the city that’s long been lost elsewhere. So much of the world has been taken over by money， but not so in Lisbon. There’s a kind of innocence[單純] to the people which I really hope they retain[保持]. It’s important they don’t step into the greedier world the rest of us inhabit[居住于].”

Although Lisbon is easy to navigate[行走] on foot， there are two quirky[離奇的] forms of transport not to be missed: the fabulous， old elevadores (cable-winched[用絞車?yán)璢 lifts)， and old trams[有軌電車] that carry you into Lisbon’s charming heart.

During my visit， I hopped aboard the No. 28， a wooden tram that winds[蜿蜒前進(jìn)] its way from the shopping area of Baixa to the narrow streets of the capital’s Alfama quarter.

Later， I took the giant Santa Justa Lift， which rises from sea level to Chiado， a district known for its fashion boutiques[小商店].

Even with just a few days in Lisbon， I was able to cram[填滿] in a lot more besides eating salted cod[鱈魚(yú)] and sardines[沙丁魚(yú)] and drinking strong coffee called bica. One morning， I visited the striking Belém Tower beside the River Tagus—it’s a stone monument[紀(jì)念碑] that celebrates Portugal’s seafaring past.

Afterwards， irresistible[不可抵抗的] sweet smells drew me into a pastry[酥皮糕點(diǎn)] shop known for its deliciously fresh egg tarts. But be warned: one is never enough.

在歐洲，能夠讓你浪漫一回的地方已經(jīng)不多了。在候選名單上，里斯本或許位居榜首。覆滿綠蔭的街道，被太陽(yáng)照得明晃晃的廣場(chǎng)，就連微笑著走過(guò)這些地方的中年夫婦也仿佛是初次約會(huì)一般。

里斯本的魅力往往體現(xiàn)在其日常景物當(dāng)中，這與其合理的物價(jià)和友好的當(dāng)?shù)厝擞泻艽箨P(guān)系。當(dāng)?shù)厝颂崎e了，葡萄牙竟然曾經(jīng)建立起一個(gè)帝國(guó)，這似乎是一個(gè)奇跡。

建在七座山上的里斯本也是歐洲最適合徒步游覽的城市之一。

被吸引到葡萄牙首都來(lái)的不僅有游客，還有電影人。將在該城拍攝的其中一部最新電影是《開(kāi)往里斯本的夜車》。杰里米·艾恩斯扮演一位教授。他放棄了自己的工作，前往里斯本進(jìn)行一段發(fā)現(xiàn)自我之旅。

艾恩斯對(duì)這座城市印象深刻，形容它是“一顆真正的寶石”。

他說(shuō)：“里斯本是絕佳的拍攝地。不僅因?yàn)樵诮ㄖ纤鼡碛蟹欠驳慕ㄖ?，也因?yàn)檫@里的人們對(duì)我非常友好。我希望不久以后能再次回到這里拍攝另一部電影。”

這部電影拍攝于春季，主要在里斯本歷史悠久的地區(qū)取景，當(dāng)中包括憐憫街、拜薩區(qū)（市中心）和奧古斯塔街。

“里斯本有一種很特別的氛圍，”《開(kāi)往里斯本的夜車》的丹麥籍導(dǎo)演比爾·奧古斯特說(shuō)。

“失落的尊榮給它帶來(lái)一種頹廢與憂郁的味道。這座城市是一個(gè)神秘的地方，但有著別處早已失去的某種美好。世界上如此多的地方已被金錢劫持，里斯本卻能獨(dú)善其身。這里的人有一種純真，我真的希望他們能夠保持不變。他們沒(méi)有踏入我們其他人所處的貪婪世界，這一點(diǎn)很重要?！?/p>

雖然里斯本便于徒步游覽，但還有兩種特殊的交通方式不容錯(cuò)過(guò)——不同尋常的老式電纜升降機(jī)和能將你帶到里斯本迷人市中心的老式電車。

在游覽里斯本時(shí)，我跳上了28號(hào)電車。這電車是木制的，從拜薩購(gòu)物區(qū)蜿蜒拐入阿爾法瑪區(qū)的狹窄街道。

后來(lái)，我又搭乘了巨大的圣胡斯塔升降梯——它從海平面上升到以時(shí)尚精品店聞名的希亞多區(qū)。

盡管我在里斯本只待了短短幾天，但除了吃鹽腌鱈魚(yú)和沙丁魚(yú)，以及一種名叫“比卡”的濃咖啡，我還飽食了很多美食。一天早上，我參觀了塔霍河旁邊震撼的貝倫塔——這座石碑贊頌著葡萄牙的航海歷史。

隨后，令人無(wú)法抗拒的香甜氣味將我引入一家糕點(diǎn)店，這家店以其美味的新鮮蛋撻聞名。但注意咯——吃一個(gè)是絕對(duì)不夠的。

Things to Do in Lisbon 里斯本的好去處

Lisbon is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. This city has a very unique style and the charm of the Old World注2. While walking through the narrow streets of the city centre， discover these things to do in the capital of Portugal.

里斯本是歐洲最美麗的城市之一，有著非常獨(dú)特的風(fēng)格和東半球風(fēng)情。在步行穿過(guò)市中心狹窄的街道時(shí)，不妨也去發(fā)掘一下葡萄牙首都的好去處。

注1：杰里米·艾恩斯（1948-），資深英國(guó)影視演員，《命運(yùn)的逆轉(zhuǎn)》為他贏得了1991年第63屆奧斯卡的最佳男主角獎(jiǎng)。

注2：舊大陸，東半球，常特指歐洲。

Belém Tower 貝倫塔

Every tourist looking for an afternoon outing should put the Belém Tower on their list. It’s a classic example of late Gothic architecture注3. The tower， when it was built， stood on the bank of the Tagus River and today still stands in the same plane. If you’ve ever had an interest in the Age of Discovery注4， pay close attention. This is where Magellan注5 and Vasco da Gama注6 used to get ready for their New World expeditions!

想在下午出去走走的游客都應(yīng)該把貝倫塔列入單子。它是晚期哥特式建筑的典范。這座塔當(dāng)年建造時(shí)就立在塔霍河岸上，如今它依然矗立在同一個(gè)地方。如果你對(duì)地理大發(fā)現(xiàn)時(shí)期感興趣，不妨多加留意。麥哲倫和瓦斯科·達(dá)伽馬當(dāng)年就是在這里為他們探索新世界的歷險(xiǎn)做準(zhǔn)備的！

Pastel de Nata 葡式蛋撻

These warm， fresh-out-of-the-oven custard[牛奶蛋糊] tarts can be found in cafés all over Lisbon. Take a seat and try this little treat which is included in the list of the top 50 best delicacies[美味佳肴] in the world. Are you convinced yet? They’re best enjoyed with a bica.

這些熱氣騰騰、新鮮出爐的奶油蛋撻在里斯本的咖啡館隨處可見(jiàn)。找個(gè)座位坐下來(lái)，嘗嘗這種名列世界50種最佳美食的小點(diǎn)心吧?，F(xiàn)在你相信了嗎？葡式蛋撻和比卡咖啡是最佳搭配。

Alfama 阿爾法瑪區(qū)

Now that your belly’s been satisfied， it’s time to get back on the move! Take the bus and head into the city centre， towards Alfama， the oldest district of the city. This area was once dominated by Arabs， but today it’s a pleasant mix-and-match with steep streets creating a labyrinth[迷宮] for those unfamiliar with the layout. In 1775 most of Lisbon was levelled out[把……弄平] after a huge earthquake. This slice[部分] of the old city remains; the last piece of what used to be.

填飽肚子之后，是時(shí)候重新啟程了！乘公交車到市中心去，向阿爾法瑪區(qū)進(jìn)發(fā)。這是里斯本最老的區(qū)，以前到處都是阿拉伯人，但今天，它是一個(gè)令人愉快的大雜燴，對(duì)于不熟悉此地布局的人而言，陡峭的街道可能會(huì)變成一個(gè)迷宮。在1775年的一場(chǎng)大地震中，里斯本的大部分區(qū)域被夷為平地，但這片老城區(qū)留存了下來(lái)，是里斯本昔日容貌的最后一斑。

注3：哥特式建筑是一種興盛于中世紀(jì)高峰與末期的建筑風(fēng)格，發(fā)源于十二世紀(jì)的法國(guó)，持續(xù)至十六世紀(jì)。哥特式建筑的特色包括尖形拱門、肋狀拱頂與飛拱。

注4：歐洲歷史的地理大發(fā)現(xiàn)是指從15世紀(jì)到17世紀(jì)這段時(shí)期。當(dāng)時(shí)歐洲的船隊(duì)出現(xiàn)在世界各處的海洋上，尋找著新的貿(mào)易路線和貿(mào)易伙伴，以發(fā)展新生的資本主義。在這些遠(yuǎn)洋探索中，歐洲人發(fā)現(xiàn)了許多當(dāng)時(shí)在歐洲不為人知的國(guó)家與地區(qū)。

注5：斐迪南·麥哲倫（1480-1521），為西班牙政府效力探險(xiǎn)的葡萄牙航海家。1519年至1522年率領(lǐng)船隊(duì)首次環(huán)航地球，死于菲律賓的部族沖突中。雖然他本人沒(méi)有實(shí)現(xiàn)環(huán)球航行，他船上的水手在他死后繼續(xù)向西航行，回到歐洲。

注6：瓦斯科·達(dá)伽馬（1469-1524），葡萄牙探險(xiǎn)家，也是歷史上第一位從歐洲航海到印度的人。

Fado 法朵民謠

Alfama is nice during the day but it’s even better once night falls and the street bars fill with music. It’s the best place to catch a performance of fado， a musical tradition consisting of[由……組成] a viola[中提琴]， Portuguese guitar and some singers reciting poems dedicated to the men who have sailed the high seas.

白天的阿爾法瑪區(qū)很不錯(cuò)，不過(guò)到了晚上，當(dāng)街上的酒吧飄滿音樂(lè)時(shí)，這里就更好玩了。這是觀賞法朵民謠表演的最佳去處。法朵是一種葡萄牙傳統(tǒng)音樂(lè)，由中提琴和葡萄牙吉他演奏，再由幾位歌手背誦獻(xiàn)給出海男兒的詩(shī)歌。

The Oceanarium[海洋水族館] 海洋水族館

The largest indoor aquarium[水族館] in Europe， the Oceanarium was built to commemorate[紀(jì)念] the World Expo held in Lisbon in 1998. The stone and glass structure is a wonder in itself and once you add the four separate aquariums featuring ecosystems from the Atlantic， Pacific， Indian and Antarctic Oceans， it’s incredible.

這是歐洲最大的室內(nèi)水族館，該館是為了紀(jì)念1998年在里斯本舉行的世博會(huì)而建的。石與玻璃的結(jié)構(gòu)本身就是一個(gè)奇跡，再加上四個(gè)獨(dú)立的水族館，分別模擬大西洋、太平洋、印度洋和南極海域的生態(tài)系統(tǒng)，這里就更加無(wú)與倫比了。

St. George’s Castle 圣喬治城堡

Reserve an entire morning or afternoon to discover St. George’s Castle. It stands atop the highest hill of Lisbon and is the most popular tourist attraction in the city， for good reason. It is square in shape and was originally surrounded by a wall， almost like a citadel[要塞]. Throughout history it was the military headquarters for Romans， Moors注7 and even Spaniards[西班牙人]. More recently， the big earthquake in the 1770s tested the strength of its foundation and the castle remains intact[完整無(wú)缺的].

預(yù)留一整個(gè)上午或下午的時(shí)間到圣喬治城堡發(fā)掘亮點(diǎn)吧。圣喬治城堡矗立在里斯本最高的山上，是這座城市最熱門的旅游景點(diǎn)——這是很有道理的。它形狀方正，原來(lái)有圍墻包圍，幾乎就是一個(gè)城塞。在歷史上它曾是羅馬人、摩爾人，甚至西班牙人的軍事總部。在更近的歷史中，它頂住了18世紀(jì)70年代那場(chǎng)大地震的考驗(yàn)，至今依然完好無(wú)損。

Trams 有軌電車

If you’re tired by now of all the ups and downs， your calves[小腿] are aching and you just can’t take it any more， then grab the tram. These yellow trams will take you along some of the most inaccessible routes by foot， so it’s not only historical but exciting as well!

如果這一路上起伏跌宕的山路把你累壞了，小腿酸痛不已，再也走不動(dòng)了，那就去搭電車吧。這些黃色電車將帶你穿過(guò)一些徒步無(wú)法到達(dá)的路線。所以搭電車不僅很有歷史感，也很令人興奮哦！

注7：中世紀(jì)伊比利亞半島（今西班牙和葡萄牙）、馬格里布和西非的穆斯林居民。歷史上，摩爾人主要指在伊比利亞半島的伊斯蘭征服者。