魅力巖頭村

惠泉

穿村而過的清漾大溪 Yantou Village cradles Qingyang Stream.

巖頭村為奉化市溪口鎮(zhèn)轄地，村中文化厚積，被列為浙江省歷史文化名村。人文勝跡映襯著山水風(fēng)光，古韻新貌交匯，今日巖頭山鄉(xiāng)分外嬌麗。人們在溪口國家5A級(jí)旅游景區(qū)休閑之后，到距離溪口11公里的巖頭村，親近自然，領(lǐng)略人文，徜徉于江南山水如畫的美景中，自會(huì)感受不虛此行。

巖頭記憶

開放的巖頭，村委會(huì)辦公大樓坐落在村口。樓內(nèi)各組織機(jī)構(gòu)健全，為民服務(wù)設(shè)施完善。巖頭新貌和遠(yuǎn)景規(guī)劃制作成模型，展示于一樓大廳，一目了然。

村干部毛衛(wèi)海是中華毛氏聯(lián)誼研究會(huì)第一屆理事，他辦公室里備有一本130萬字的《毛氏通書》。他的介紹從貫穿全村的清漾大溪開始，“清漾”之名出自江南毛氏發(fā)祥地：浙江江山市清漾村。那里是毛澤東的祖居地，輪資排輩，巖頭毛福梅和毛澤東是同輩人。清漾毛氏毛仁鏘任明州太守，他的孫子毛旭，愛到奉化石門、巖頭游歷，其后代毛宣義鐘情巖頭山水。一天他從溪口策馬揮鞭，一路上看遠(yuǎn)山如黛，到巖頭見四周群峰圍繞，中流清溪，澄澈見底，溪中有巨巖突兀，巖頭地名也許由此而得。村口的白象山和獅子山由廣濟(jì)橋連接，橋下溪水潺潺。古人依山傍水營建村落，稱許這里“環(huán)而不塞”，為藏風(fēng)納水之地。傳說巖頭先祖毛氏在溪流上加設(shè)三座不同的古橋，成為“毛”字的一撇二橫，而彎彎清漾之水，成了“毛”字的最后一筆。在山上遠(yuǎn)眺，巖頭地方形若“毛”字。清漾溪水曾孕育清一色的毛姓人家，至今已近七百年！

清漾大溪畔立有“雙街古鎮(zhèn)”石碑，以志東西兩街。和古樸的東街不同，臨溪的西街多現(xiàn)代建筑。從白象山麓起，一路上呈現(xiàn)幢幢新居，談得上“村莊綠化，河道凈化，衛(wèi)生潔化”。老人們在店面前三五成群，閑坐聊天，安度晚年。在村落的現(xiàn)代建筑中，也有古宅參差其間，一兩百年的古建筑，馬頭墻的三合院、四合院，全村有37幢！西街三份地蔣介石的原配夫人毛福梅故居依舊。她在與蔣介石立下“離婚不離家”的協(xié)議后，長住溪口，也常在巖頭小住，特別是當(dāng)年蔣介石在巖頭讀書，由毛福梅照料。

巖頭人說起蔣介石與毛氏的婚姻，都知道少年蔣介石心戀巖頭村姑媽的女兒，姑媽深知瑞元（蔣介石小名）生性頑劣，說是有十個(gè)女兒也不會(huì)嫁給他一個(gè)。這話傳到蔣母王采玉耳里，于是，她偏偏要找個(gè)巖頭村的媳婦，讓親眷看看。這媳婦就是在巖頭開祥豐南貨行的毛鼎和之女毛福梅。她比蔣介石年長5歲，王采玉以為有利照管在巖頭讀書的兒子。如今，走過鵝卵石的小徑，依然可睹毛福梅住的“素居”，這是一幢晚清時(shí)的三合院建筑，二層樓房，正房和廂房有回廊相連，故居內(nèi)陳列著毛福梅當(dāng)年的嫁妝。她在巖頭小住，攜帶童年蔣經(jīng)國居住的臥室仍保留著。蔣經(jīng)國成人后，也常對人說：“生我者溪口，養(yǎng)我者巖頭?！?/p>

現(xiàn)在巖頭村民勤于創(chuàng)業(yè)，大家還享受著村中的文化大餐，村有民俗民風(fēng)館，陳列著上百年前村中的生產(chǎn)、生活用具，如石磨、石搗臼、耙田的釘耙，打草鞋的草鞋耙，還有更多的老式家具。

毛邦初的故居“慰望廬”為二層樓房，粉墻青瓦，結(jié)構(gòu)簡潔。毛邦初從普通飛行員到抗日戰(zhàn)爭時(shí)升任空軍副司令員。故居還陳列著一批毛氏后裔的愛國業(yè)跡圖照。

山鄉(xiāng)古街

從西街跨過清漾大溪，就到溪東古街，俗稱東街。

20余米寬的清漾大溪，有山鄉(xiāng)獨(dú)有的神韻。不但溪名浸透著毛氏的文化淵源，而且水石相間的厚重風(fēng)采天造地設(shè)。行人時(shí)而步凸出水面的石磴，時(shí)而登裸露溪中的巨巖，用雙腳跨越大溪并非夸張之詞，而且有多個(gè)地方可隨意跨溪，并不是非走橋不可。漫步溪澗，壘壘巖石千姿百態(tài)，使人遐想翩翩，有的如野馬飲水，有的如群牛休閑，也有似神龜匍匐、河馬露臉。而溪水依著巖石，或從罅而出，或淙淙流瀉，或深潭漫溢。潭邊偶有村中少婦用棒槌搗衣，演繹著從前浣紗情景。

置身古街仿佛時(shí)光倒流，一切都是古老的，尤其是民國初年的古街，遺韻宛在。街心靈泉古井又名大井潭，印證著別處難覓的山鄉(xiāng)舊景，當(dāng)年多少過往行人、樵夫商販直接飲用井水，泉井至今清澈鑒人，可與村口“石泉”媲美?！笆庇汕宕螒c道光年間名震江浙的書法家毛玉佩手書。而蔣介石飲用靈泉古井水，對此也有贊語：“溪口剡溪水，雪竇飛瀑泉。要說水哪好，巖頭大井潭?！?/p>

與靈泉古井相鄰的毛思誠故居，為古街增加了文化氣息。毛思誠是蔣介石的啟蒙老師。當(dāng)年他在故居開設(shè)私塾，遠(yuǎn)近聞名。少年蔣介石在別處數(shù)次求學(xué)不成，到巖頭毛思誠私塾讀書，依然是頑皮搗蛋，常常是課桌當(dāng)舞臺(tái)，凳子當(dāng)?shù)稑?。但?jīng)毛思誠的嚴(yán)格管束，教誨熏陶，倒能循師求學(xué)。他是蔣介石最敬重的老師。三合院的毛思誠故居是幢二層樓，小青瓦蓋頂，重檐硬山埂，曾經(jīng)收藏著民國十五年前的蔣介石44本日記，還有孫中山給蔣介石的一批手令、委任狀、親筆信，達(dá)180卷之多。后由毛思誠的孫子毛丁等后代捐贈(zèng)給南京中國第二歷史檔案館。目前書市上流行的蔣介石日記等解密史料，多出自巖頭古街這個(gè)古色古香的院落。

年逾八旬的毛昭飛先生土生土長在巖頭，他對古老的東街記憶猶新，說曾有2家錢莊、3家米店、3家肉店、3家中藥店、4家南貨店和多家雜貨店。百年前巖頭村不過500多戶人家，山民一年吃不上幾次肉，三家肉店的豬肉由誰買去？毛先生又說，在奉化山鄉(xiāng)還沒有公路的年代，大堰、萬竹等鄉(xiāng)村一批批山民，到巖頭是他們的出市之地。三里小街，人頭攢動(dòng)，相比江南水鄉(xiāng)周莊、烏鎮(zhèn)、甪里，那熱鬧的場面另有一番山鄉(xiāng)古風(fēng)。

水鄉(xiāng)以舟楫代步，巖頭一帶山民則以竹排為舟，往返于臨街的清漾大溪。

位于老街一隅的靈泉古井

An ancient well in the street of Yantou Vil-lage

COUNTRYSIDE美麗鄉(xiāng)村

如今小竹排只有在溪口的武嶺頭還可見到。當(dāng)年竹排在巖頭之多，建有排業(yè)協(xié)會(huì)，撐竹排的山民，穿行在山水之中，竹木柴炭從山里運(yùn)出去，大米、棉花、藥材從山外運(yùn)進(jìn)來，他們運(yùn)載過往來客，認(rèn)識(shí)山內(nèi)山外各類人士。著名作家巴人（王任叔）當(dāng)年就是坐竹排從大堰走出來，過巖頭到寧波、上海，投身革命。

臨溪而建的古老東街，兩邊的店鋪相距只有一根扁擔(dān)寬一點(diǎn)，卻比水鄉(xiāng)周莊不到一根扁擔(dān)要寬。這里終究留下了已經(jīng)遠(yuǎn)去的山鄉(xiāng)記憶符號(hào)。民謠稱：“巖頭風(fēng)光真正好，上有寺院下有廟，七場水碓呱呱叫，十張竹排直通蕭王廟。 ”

美麗山村

人類在歷史長河中展示著三大軌跡：一要溫飽、二要發(fā)展、三要享受。古代的東街雖是山鄉(xiāng)經(jīng)濟(jì)的歸結(jié)，但從前山民生活困苦，記述巖頭一帶有詩：“君不見四明山下寒無糧，九月糧麥五月嘗，一日辛苦無別業(yè)，日日采藤行遠(yuǎn)岡……”山民由撐竹排之苦轉(zhuǎn)到當(dāng)今旅游漂流的山水之樂，時(shí)而感受深潭幽深，時(shí)而在浪尖領(lǐng)略驚濤駭浪，漂流全過程有驚無險(xiǎn)，融觀賞山水、娛樂嬉戲和運(yùn)動(dòng)休閑于一體。

如今開發(fā)巖頭古村旅游，風(fēng)景名勝古跡眾多，廣濟(jì)橋古樹倩影，清風(fēng)寺竹海棲云，石泉清幽依舊，瑞房古樸偉岸，處處有文化支撐。人們在象鼻山上的禮佛亭，可觀看雪竇山的露天彌勒大佛，那坐姿佛像高56米，笑容可掬。相傳奉化布袋和尚是彌勒的化身，全國有名的寺院多有彌勒佛像，旁有楹聯(lián)：“大肚能容，容天下難容之事；慈顏含笑，笑世間可笑之人。 ”彌勒在奉化好事多多，對巖頭似乎厚愛有加，宋代在巖頭村西南有西峰寺，傳說有只三腳虎，兇狠殘暴，常在夜間躥進(jìn)村里吃人。彌勒知情后，趕到西峰寺巖壁邊三腳虎出沒處，笑嘻嘻地坐于袋口，三腳虎中計(jì)進(jìn)袋，不能出來。巖壁奇怪地變成巖洞，那里曾稱為布袋巖洞。過去還有彌勒誘虎塑像。如今一方安寧，成了深山移民的住處。毛偉豐一家走出世代居住的高山，住在那里安居樂業(yè)。那一排排新居，面向茂密的竹林，環(huán)境幽美。

像毛偉豐那樣的下山移民，在巖頭

巖頭村一角 A view of Yantou Village

村集中安置的有120多戶。在近20平方公里的土地上，有巖頭村民892戶、2400余人，現(xiàn)在是溪口鎮(zhèn)上最大的行政村之一，她先后獲浙江省歷史文化名村、浙江省文明村、浙江省衛(wèi)生村、寧波市全面小康村、寧波市民主法制示范村、寧波市生態(tài)村、寧波市農(nóng)家樂特色村等榮譽(yù)稱號(hào)。

巖頭在前進(jìn)！

建設(shè)美麗巖頭，開發(fā)古村旅游，這有賴于村級(jí)領(lǐng)導(dǎo)班子，以毛衛(wèi)海為代表的村干部，開拓創(chuàng)新，立足本村，堅(jiān)持

帶回字的發(fā)展理念：“走出去學(xué)經(jīng)驗(yàn)， 42

來提水平，提上來理思路，沉下去干實(shí)事。 ”村干部組織村民延長產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈，開發(fā)旅游產(chǎn)品，種好奉化有名的土特產(chǎn)水蜜

毛福梅故居“素居”The former residence of Mao Fumei

桃、楊梅、芋艿、羊尾筍，三分之一村民護(hù)理花卉竹木。到巖頭旅游，人們嘗的水蜜桃似瓊漿玉露，芋艿頭粉糯透鮮，羊尾筍嫩白味美，使人在飽眼福之余又飽口福，歸途中總是有所收獲，村民的收入從中也逐年提升。

村干部積極支持村民開拓創(chuàng)業(yè)。如今村中有53家民營企業(yè)，各類產(chǎn)品銷往山外，有的打響國內(nèi)外市場。更多的中青年人則走出巖頭，到外省外府創(chuàng)業(yè)，毛衛(wèi)海是村民的楷模。他早年出村創(chuàng)業(yè)，事業(yè)有成，如今回村，是村里主要干部。他不計(jì)名利，全身心地服務(wù)村民，還鼓勵(lì)兒子到外省開發(fā)礦山。村民外出有作為，財(cái)源滾滾進(jìn)村來。

尊師重教傳村風(fēng)。從前村中下昌門有父子叔侄登科傳為美談，晚清巖頭私塾有名，吸引鄰里四鄉(xiāng)子弟。過去巖頭外出的人賺大錢，通過東街錢莊帶到家里，信中總是千叮嚀萬囑咐，要讓家里孩子讀好書。到外面如果懂外語，還可以創(chuàng)新業(yè)干大事。如今無論村內(nèi)村外，都重視對后代的培養(yǎng)教育，“只有讀好書，才能走得遠(yuǎn)”、“堂堂巖頭人，學(xué)而報(bào)家國”已成為村民的理念。

美景美事美山鄉(xiāng)，今日在建設(shè)幸福新農(nóng)村的巖頭人，正傳承歷史，開拓創(chuàng)新，意氣風(fēng)發(fā)地奔向新征途。 □

（本文圖照由寧波溪口雪竇山風(fēng)景名勝區(qū)管委會(huì)提供）

Yantou Village Epitomizes

Republican Years

By Hui Quan

Yantou is a scenic village in Xikou, a rural township in Fenghua in eastern Zhejiang Province. Yantou is actually a small part of the history of the Republic of China (1911-1949) as it is only 11 kilometers from Xikou, the hometown of Chiang Kai-shek (1887-1975), Chinas top leader for more than two decades before 1949 and leader of Taiwan until 1975. Chiang Kai-shek grew up in Xikou and he retired to Xikou several times during the last years of his stay on the mainland before he

fled to Taiwan in 1949. His first wife Mao Fu-mei was a resident of Yankou.

Yantou strides a stream, which is called is Qingyang Stream, named after Qingyang Village where one branch of the Mao clan originated. According to the multi-volume clan genealogy preserved at Qingyang Village in Jiangshan City in southern Zhe-jiang Province, Mao Zedongs ancestors first lived in the village before they moved northward and finally settled down at Sha-oshan in central Chinas Hunan Province. It turned out that the Mao families in Yantou are also descendents of the Mao clan of Qingyang Village. According to the clan genealogy, Mao Zedong and Chiang Kai-shek were relatives because Chiangs first wife Mao Fumei was a distant cousin of Mao Zedong, though the family ties of the political archrivals of the 20th century China were not known to the public until a few years ago. Cultural Dialogue featured

COUNTRYSIDE美麗鄉(xiāng)村

毛思誠考取舉人的官報(bào)

This government billboard an-nounces that Mao Sicheng came out as a provincial graduate in the impe-rial examination.

a story about the Mao clan genealogy of Qingyang Village in the issue of July 2008 and featured a story about Mao Zedongs grandsons visit to the family roots at Qingyang in the issue of August 2009.

Today, Yantou has 37 residence court-yards that go back at least to 100 years ago. Mao Fumeis family residence still stands. After Chiang Kai-shek divorced Mao Fumei, he made arrangements so that the ex-wife remained a member of the Chi-ang family. She lived in Chiangs home in Xikou until she died in a bombing in 1938. After Chiang and Mao got married, Chiang stayed in Yantou to study classics and his wife, senior by five years, took care of him. The son from the marriage of Chiang Kai-shek and Mao Fumei was Chiang Ching-Kuo (1909-1988), who visited and stayed at his mothers house at Yantou frequently.

At Yantou, two streets run in parallel along Qingyang Stream. The stream is about 20 meters across at the widest spot. In some places, stepping stones are used for villagers to walk across the stream. Boul-ders in the stream take various shapes, set-ting some peoples imagination free.

The two streets were built in the early years of the Republic. There is a well in the street where passers-by drank in the past. At the entrance to the village stands a rock with an inscription by Mao Yupei, a master calligrapher of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), who enjoyed a big reputation in Zhe-jiang and Jiangsu provinces. Chiang Kai-shek once wrote a short poem in praise of the water.

The former residence of Mao Sicheng is a cultural monument of Yantou. Mao Sicheng was Chiang Kai-sheks first teacher, who ran a private school at home. A naughty boy, Chiang Kai-shek in his boyhood years was turned down by some schools close to his hometown Xikou. He finally came to the school of Mao Sicheng, 11 kilometers away from his home. Of all the teachers Chiang had in his lifetime, Mao Sicheng was most respected by Chiang. Chiang Kai-shek later gave his teacher 44 volumes of his diary he wrote before 1926 and other documents in his personal archive such as notes, let-ters of appointments, and letters from Dr. Sun Yat-sen. All together, the archive at the residence had 188 historical volumes. In 1966, the precious files were in the danger of being torched. The files were saved and later returned to the care of Mao Ding, the grandson of Mao Sicheng. The 188 volumes have been donated to the Number Two Na-tional Archives in Nanjing. The diaries and other documents have been the sources of many books on Chiang Kai-shek published on the mainland.

Yantou used to be a marketplace for vil-lages deep in mountains inaccessible by wide roads. In the past, the village boasted two banks, three rice shops, three butchers shops, three herbal medicine shops, four southern delicacies shops, and some gro-cery shops to cater to the customers from mountain villages. At that time, Yantou had 240 households and villagers ate meat only a few times around the year. What makes the shops look unique and homey is that the main street on the east side of the stream is only about two meters wide.

In those years, bamboo rafts were most convenient means of transport in Yantou. Nowadays, bamboo rafts can only be seen at one place around Xikou. Yantou used to have a rafters guild. They shipped bamboos, firewood, charcoals out of mountains and shipped rice, cotton and herbal medicines into the mountains. Nowadays, rafts are used for pleasure tours on the stream. It is a big attraction for tourists.

Yantou is no longer a trade center as it was a century ago. Yantou has turned itself into a tourist attraction. From a pa-vilion near the village, tourists can see the 56-meter-tall statue of Maitreya in Xuedou Mountain at Xikou. Yantou is now the larg-est administrative village in Xikou with 592 households, a population of 2,400. Village economy is flourishing. In addition to tourism, it is home to 53 private businesses. Many young people go outside to do business. Some run their enterprises overseas. Educa-tion is still a big tradition of Yantou. □=