流行的“新中式”A Gust of New Chinese Style

言真 夕柚

龍年春節(jié)期間，在中國的一些城市，穿著傳統(tǒng)漢服或中國少數(shù)民族服飾可以免費乘坐地鐵，甚至還有一些景區(qū)對穿漢服的游客免費開放；越來越多的明星穿上各種“新中式”服裝在各種重大場合頻頻亮相；年輕人也正追逐著這股新中式的潮流。如今，新中式的設(shè)計之美甚至超越國界，成為全球時尚界的一股重要力量。

During the Spring Festival of the Yearof the Loong， in some cities of China，people wearing traditional Han Chineseclothing， known as Hanfu， or costumes ofChinese ethnic minorities enjoy free ride onthe subway. In some scenic spots， visitorswearing Hanfu also enjoy free entry. Moreand more celebrities are donning various“new Chinese-style” clothing at major events，while young people are enthusiasticallyfollowing this trend. Today， the beauty ofnew Chinese-style design has gone global，becoming an important force in the fashionworld.

說到穿衣風(fēng)格，人們比較耳熟能詳?shù)挠蟹ㄊ斤L(fēng)、英倫風(fēng)、美式風(fēng)。那么，新中式到底是什么？為此我們采訪了中國十佳時裝設(shè)計師、中國時裝設(shè)計“金頂獎”獲得者武學(xué)凱，為我們解析他眼中的新中式。

When it comes to fashion styles， peopleare more familiar with French， British， andAmerican styles. So， what exactly is NewChinese-style？ To answer this question， weinterviewed Wu Xuekai， one of Chinas topten fashion designers and recipient of the“Jinding Award” for Chinese fashion design，to decipher his perspective on new Chinesestyle.

新中式的要素

Elements of New Chinese Style

新中式，從某種意義上說，是中國當(dāng)代年輕藝術(shù)家將自己對中國傳統(tǒng)文化內(nèi)涵的理解，結(jié)合多種元素，轉(zhuǎn)化成現(xiàn)代藝術(shù)表達(dá)的一種呈現(xiàn)。

New Chinese style， in a sense， is a presentationof contemporary understanding and modern artisticexpression of the cultural connotations of Chinesetraditions combined with various elements by Chineseyoung artists.

新中式的第一大要素在于面料。過去人們講到新中式，首先想到的可能是服裝樣式，但是現(xiàn)在的新中式更講究面料。武學(xué)凱聯(lián)手非遺染纈（xié）傳承人管蘭生教授研制面料。他們將采集的植物枝葉、花朵等與非遺染纈技術(shù)相結(jié)合，在棉、麻、絲等天然及混紡材質(zhì)上實現(xiàn)千萬種變化，使其呈現(xiàn)出獨一無二的面料樣式。同時，他們將科技與可持續(xù)發(fā)展的環(huán)保理念相結(jié)合，通過時尚設(shè)計提高人們的生活品質(zhì)。

The first major element of new Chinese style lies inthe fabrics. In the past， when people talked about newChinese style， they might have first thought of clothingstyles， but nowadays， emphasis has been placed onfabrics. Wu Xuekai collaborated with Professor GuanLansheng， an inheritor of traditional dyeing techniqueswhich has been listed as intangible cultural heritage，to develop the fabrics for new Chinese-style garments.They used plant branches， leaves， and flowers as rawmaterials， and adopted traditional dyeing techniques，creating countless unique styles on natural andblended materials such as cotton， hemp， and silk.At the same time， they embraced the conceptsof sustainable development and environmentalprotection in technological advancement，improving peoples quality of life through fashiondesign.

武學(xué)凱最近設(shè)計的“錦繡歲貢”系列是與故宮文創(chuàng)聯(lián)名開發(fā)的故宮IP絲綢面料，力求全方位地復(fù)刻與發(fā)揚中國優(yōu)秀文化傳統(tǒng)。選用講究的桑蠶絲為面料，以獨有的AI人工智能織造技術(shù)為支撐，“錦繡歲貢”系列面料先后獲得“中國國際面料設(shè)計大賽”金獎、“中國國際絲綢博覽會推薦精品”金獎等多項國內(nèi)外獎項，以及國家發(fā)明專利，使過往無法想象的無極漸變和繁復(fù)圖案都變?yōu)楝F(xiàn)實。

Wu Xuekais recently designed “SplendidTribute” series is a collaboration with the PalaceMuseums Cultural and Creative Products，developing silk fabrics featuring the PalaceMuseum IP. The series is aimed at meticulouslyreplicating and promoting traditional Chinesecultural heritage in every aspect. By selectingexquisite mulberry silk as the fabric and utilizingunique artificial intelligence weaving technology，the “Splendid Tribute” series has won manydomestic and international awards such asthe gold award of China International FabricDesign Competition， and the gold award ofRecommended Products of China InternationalSilk Expo. It has also successfully acquired manynational invention patents. The series has madethe previously unimaginable infinite gradients andintricate patterns a reality.

新中式的第二大要素在于顏色。國際通用的彩通（PANTONE）色卡會把顏色分得非常細(xì)致，如綠色能細(xì)分到草綠色、橄欖綠色等，但在呈現(xiàn)中國顏色時，就會使用到各種各樣的物件，如古代中式的盆景、團扇、花瓶等，這些物件賦予顏色各種情緒和內(nèi)涵，顏色因而富有詩意。

The second major element of new Chinesestyle is color. The internationally recognizedPantone color card divides colors very finely，such as green being subdivided into grass green，olive green， etc. But Chinese colors are definedthrough various daily items， such as ancientbonsai， folding fans， vases， etc. These objectsinfuse Chinese colors with a poetic quality withspecific emotions and cultural implications.

新中式的第三大要素在于設(shè)計和款式。新中式的服裝設(shè)計具有唯一性和偶然性。一些新中式服裝需要手工植物染色，染色后的效果往往不可預(yù)料：雖然是用同一種方法去染面料，但由于每次染色時的溫度、手法、力度等有些不同，每一批面料上的花紋都可能是不同的。這些偶然性成就了新中式服裝的唯一性。

The third major element of new Chinesestyle exists in design and style. new Chinesestyleclothing design boasts uniqueness andrandomness. Some new Chinese-style clothingrequires hand-dyeing with plant dyes， whichcreates unforeseeable effects： although the samemethod is used to dye the fabrics， differencesin temperature， technique， and pressure duringeach dyeing process may result in differentpatterns on each batch of fabrics. These randomoccurrences contribute to the uniqueness ofnew Chinese-style clothing.

新中式服裝款式眾多。傳統(tǒng)的中式服裝經(jīng)過改良和更新，融合現(xiàn)代設(shè)計元素，更具時尚感和個性化，并適宜在多種場合穿著。以前，人們會覺得某些服裝，比如西服和旗袍，必須要有一定經(jīng)驗的老師傅才能設(shè)計。而現(xiàn)在，新中式的設(shè)計追求的是一種娛樂性的有趣表達(dá)，年輕的設(shè)計師也適宜做新中式?？梢酝ㄟ^不同的方式產(chǎn)生那些唯一性和偶然性，這也是新中式的設(shè)計師群體越來越年輕化的原因。此外，消費者的眼光也變得更包容。新中式的消費者往往不追求完美，反而喜歡具有特色的東西。如此，設(shè)計師的創(chuàng)新能力得以釋放，這便是近年來中國設(shè)計師在國際上越來越受到關(guān)注和認(rèn)可的原因之一。

New Chinese-style clothing encompasses awide range of styles. Traditional Chinese clothinghas been improved and updated with moderndesign elements， thus more fashionable andpersonalized， and suitable for various occasions.In the past， people would think that certainclothing， such as suits and Qipaos， could only bedesigned by experienced master tailors. However，now， the pursuit of new Chinese-style design isfor an entertaining and interesting expression，and therefore young designers are also suitablefor creating new Chinese-style clothing.The uniqueness and randomness throughdifferent methods is also why the group of newChinese-style designers is becoming younger.Furthermore， consumers tastes have becomemore diverse. New Chinese-style consumersoften value uniqueness over perfection. As aresult， the designers creativity is unleashed. Thisis one of the reasons why Chinese designers havebeen increasingly recognized and celebratedinternationally in recent years.

新中式是一種文化符號

New Chinese Style as a Cultural Symbol

新中式的第四大要素在于文化符號。相同款式的服裝怎樣做到千變?nèi)f化、富有創(chuàng)意、富有民族情懷？新中式找到了它的“最佳搭檔”——IP聯(lián)名，無論是故宮聯(lián)名面料，還是各種國潮、非遺文化的聯(lián)名款服飾，都給新中式服裝標(biāo)上了“中國文化”的符號。當(dāng)服裝與文化結(jié)合、碰撞出新的火花時，便引發(fā)了服裝品牌與中式文化融合的熱潮。

The fourth major element of newChinese style is the cultural symbols. Howcan clothing of the same style presentvariety， creativity， and national sentiment？New Chinese style has found its “bestpartner” — IP collaboration. Whether itsthe Palace Museums co-branded fabrics orvarious Chinese-style intangible culturalheritage co-branded clothing， they all bearthe symbol of “Chinese culture” for newChinese-style clothing. When clothingis combined with culture and new ideasspark， a fashion trend of integration iscreated.

隨著對全球認(rèn)知的加深，越來越多的中國人走出國門，人們對世界文化的了解越清晰，對自我表達(dá)的渴望也越強烈。此外，非遺文化也極大地激發(fā)了傳統(tǒng)文化的新活力。為何近年來非遺持續(xù)火熱？武學(xué)凱認(rèn)為，國際間交往的機會越多，中國設(shè)計師就越能感受到中國優(yōu)秀傳統(tǒng)文化是一個寶庫，好的服裝就是用國際語言來展現(xiàn)民族文化。設(shè)計師并非刻意創(chuàng)造新中式國潮，而是和消費者一起找到了一種名為“共情共鳴”的時尚空間。如今，在很多大型宴會上，人們不再只穿國外的大牌禮服，也會選擇穿漢服或新中式服裝——這就是文化符號的體現(xiàn)，傳播的價值也因此變得不同。

As global awareness deepens， more and moreChinese people are going abroad， contributing to aclearer understanding of global cultures and a strongerdesire for self-expression. Additionally， intangiblecultural heritage has greatly invigorated traditionalculture. Why has intangible cultural heritage been sopopular in recent years？ Wu Xuekai believes that withmore international exchanges， Chinese designers willincreasingly recognize that Chinese traditional cultureis a treasure trove. He believes that good clothingshowcases ethnic culture with an international language.Designers are not deliberately creating a new Chinesestyletrend， but rather， they are finding a fashion spacecalled “empathy and resonance” with consumers. Today，at many large banquets， apart from the initial optionsof foreign designer dresses， people also choose to wearHanfu or new Chinese-style clothing， an embodiment ofChinas cultural symbols. With such changes， the culturalsignificance of new Chinese-style clothing has increased.

新中式是中國當(dāng)代生活美學(xué)的興起

New Chinese Style Symbolizes New Lifestyle Aesthetics in Modern China

武學(xué)凱主張要“讓生活藝術(shù)化，讓藝術(shù)生活化”。隨著年輕人對中國優(yōu)秀傳統(tǒng)文化的重視和接受程度的逐漸加深，新中式文化的符號和意象也開始滲入當(dāng)代生活的方方面面：從博物館到各種電視節(jié)目、鑒寶活動、非遺項目，一些文物國寶IP甚至融入了日常生活用品。一個帶有中國文物元素的盤子不僅看上去精美，還非常實用，這就是文化與生活的融合。有了這樣的融合，歷史的文化便得以延續(xù)，這是造物哲學(xué)的完美體現(xiàn)。與商業(yè)相結(jié)合、與消費形成共通共振，設(shè)計因此有了價值。

Wu Xuekai advocates for “artifying lifeand making art part of life.” As young peopleincreasingly accept and value traditionalChinese culture， symbols and imagery ofnew Chinese-style culture begin to permeatevarious aspects of contemporary life： frommuseums to television programs， antiqueappraisal events， and intangible culturalheritage projects. Many cultural relics andnational treasure IPs are even integratedinto daily necessities. A plate adorned with?elements of Chinese cultural relics not onlylooks exquisite but also proves to be verypractical， illustrating the fusion of culture andlife. With such integration， historical culturecan continue， which is a perfect embodimentof the philosophy of creation. Designers areusing more cultural elements in commercialproducts， boosting consumption andincreasing the design value at the same time.

過去，世界曾因文化、審美的不同對中國抱有誤解。如今，中國的設(shè)計師希望通過新中式服裝來傳遞中國當(dāng)代生活美學(xué)的聲音，打破那些誤解，告訴世界我們現(xiàn)在的美是什么樣的，我們還有很多美的地方。

Once， the world misunderstood Chinadue to differences in culture and aesthetics.Today， Chinese designers hope to express thevoice of contemporary aesthetic lifestyle inChina through new Chinese-style clothing，breaking those misunderstandings andshowing the world what Chinese beautylooks like and where it lies.