餐桌上的浙江風(fēng)情Flavors of Zhejiang

趙榮光

“上有天堂，下有蘇杭” 這句古話已流傳逾千年。杭州是貫通南北大運(yùn)河的南方起點(diǎn)，又是五代十國(guó)（907 ～960）時(shí)吳越國(guó)（907 ～ 978）和南宋（1127 ～ 1279）的首都。人們稱其為“人間天堂”，不僅僅是因?yàn)樗L(fēng)景如畫、文物繁多、交通便利，更是因?yàn)槠湮锂a(chǎn)豐富、文化發(fā)達(dá)、世風(fēng)溫馨，這些都是最宜人居住的自然與社會(huì)要素。

The saying “Above， there is heaven; below， thereare Suzhou and Hangzhou” has endured for over amillennium. As the southern gateway of the GrandCanal that connects north and south China， Hangzhouserved as the capital of the Wuyue Kingdom （907—978）during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period（907—960）， and later as the capital of the SouthernSong Dynasty （1127—1279）. Renowned as the “Paradiseon Earth，” Hangzhou boasts not only breathtaking?landscapes， abundant cultural heritage， andconvenient transportation， but also rich resources，a thriving culture， and a warm social environment，making it an ideal place for living.

基于食學(xué)（Food Studies）歷史文獻(xiàn)、著者地籍統(tǒng)計(jì)和食事風(fēng)土研究，我們注意到13世紀(jì)以后中國(guó)食學(xué)重心在“下江”的事實(shí)?！跋陆笔菤v史上長(zhǎng)江下游地區(qū)（涵蓋浙江、江蘇、安徽）的簡(jiǎn)稱，也就是飲食文化區(qū)域理論中的“長(zhǎng)江下游地區(qū)飲食文化圈”的地域涵蓋。下江地區(qū)的經(jīng)濟(jì)、文化實(shí)力至少自魏晉時(shí)期起就決定著全國(guó)的態(tài)勢(shì)，大運(yùn)河則將其影響充分發(fā)揮，這樣的影響力一直持續(xù)至近現(xiàn)代。下江地區(qū)社會(huì)飲食生活的豐富繁榮是全方位、涵蓋全社會(huì)的，不僅讓浙江人富足、幸福，還造福全國(guó)。

Based on historical records， author distribution，and cultural customs of Food Studies， we discerna culinary shift towards the Lower Yangtzeregion post-13th century. The “Lower Yangtze”encompasses the lower basin of the Yangtze River，including Zhejiang， Jiangsu， and Anhui provinces.This area， which forms the nucleus of the “LowerYangtze Culinary Circle” in culinary geography， haswielded profound economic and cultural influencesince the Wei and Jin dynasties. The Grand Canalfurther augmented this influence all the way tocontemporary times. The opulent and diverseculinary landscape of the Lower Yangtze regionpermeates all strata of society， fostering prosperityand contentment not only among Zhejiangspopulace but also enriching the entire country.

嘉興是高產(chǎn)糧倉(cāng)，《新唐書 · 地理志》中有很生動(dòng)的記載。唐代以來(lái)的中國(guó)人“南稻北麥”的食料基本格局，頻頻見于歷史記載。中國(guó)人習(xí)慣說(shuō)的“吃飯”一詞，可以直白地理解為吃一碗碗白米飯。距今約7 000—5 000年前，浙江余姚河姆渡新石器時(shí)代遺址上的先民就是以稻米為主食的。中國(guó)人吃粽子的歷史不下3 000年，最初的粽子是用黃河流域產(chǎn)的黃色的糯米——黍——為原料的，宋代以后逐漸成為以白色的糯米——糯稻——包裹箬葉蒸制而成，也就是今天人們熟悉喜愛的中國(guó)粽子形態(tài)。粽子是中華民族祖先創(chuàng)造的第一種藝術(shù)性特型食品，既是全中國(guó)人的傳統(tǒng)美食，也是浙江人的日常喜愛。如今，嘉興五芳齋的粽子更是馳名天下。

Jiaxing is known as Zhejiangs granary， adesignation vividly documented in the New Book ofTang， Geography. Since the Tang Dynasty， Chinesedining habits have been characterized by rice in thesouth and wheat in the north， a pattern frequentlyreferenced in historical records. The term “eating，”

commonly used by Chinese， simply refers toconsuming bowls of white rice. Approximately 7，000to 5，000 years ago， ancestors at the Hemudu NeolithicSite in Yuyao， Zhejiang， primarily relied on rice astheir staple food. The tradition of eating zongzi （stickyrice dumplings） dates back over 3，000 years. Initially，zongzi were made from millet， a type of yellowglutinous rice sourced from the Yellow River basin.However， during the Song Dynasty， they graduallyevolved into the familiar white glutinous rice wrappedin reed leaves and steamed， which is the beloved formof Chinese zongzi today. Zongzi stand as one of theearliest culinary specialties created by the Chineseancestors， symbolizing not only a traditional delicacyfor all Chinese but also a daily favorite for the peopleof Zhejiang. Today， the zongzi sold under the brandname “Wu Fang Zhai” in Jiaxing enjoys worldwiderenown.

糯稻同時(shí)是釀酒的重要原料?？脊叛芯孔C明，中國(guó)人的飲酒史有8 000年之久，以谷物為原料釀造的酒，中國(guó)稱之為“黃酒”。歷史文獻(xiàn)記載，浙江糯米酒有3 000年的歷史。

Glutinous rice is also a vital ingredient in liquorproduction. Archaeological evidence indicates thatthe Chinese have been enjoying alcoholic beveragesfor over 8，000 years. In China， liquor made fromgrains is commonly referred to as “yellow wine.”Historical documents trace the history of Zhejiangsglutinous rice wine back 3，000 years.

浙江的歷史文化名城紹興是越國(guó)（ 公元前2032年～公元前222年）的都城，素有“文物之邦，魚米之鄉(xiāng)”之稱。紹興以“三缸文化”（酒缸、醬缸、染缸）著稱于世，第一缸就是酒缸。紹興黃酒，又稱“紹興老酒”“紹興酒”“老紹”，或簡(jiǎn)稱“紹”，凡檔次宴會(huì)必有紹酒。數(shù)百年來(lái)，紹酒成了中國(guó)黃酒的代名詞，在許多國(guó)家都有受眾。黃酒陳貯謂之“老”，老會(huì)生香，紹興老酒，越陳越香。紹興酒呈琥珀色，透明澄澈，賞心悅目，品飲則馥香濃郁。

Shaoxing， a historically and culturally significantcity in Zhejiang， once served as the capital of theYue Kingdom （2032 BC—222 BC）. Renowned asthe “l(fā)and of cultural relics and the home of rice andfish，” Shaoxing is celebrated for its “Three CrockCulture” （wine crock， sauce crock， dye crock）， withthe wine crock holding particular prominence.Known by various names such as “Shaoxing agedwine，” “Shaoxing wine，” “Aged Shao，” or simply “Shao，”Shaoxing yellow wine is an indispensable element ofupscale banquets. For centuries， Shaoxing wine hasbeen synonymous with Chinese rice wine， attractingenthusiasts from around the world. The aging processimbues the wine with a pronounced aroma over time.The older the wine gets， the more fragrant it becomes.With its amber hue and crystal-clear clarity， Shaoxingwine not only captivates the eye but also delights thepalate with its rich and aromatic flavor.

紹興的第二缸是醬缸。醬缸是以大豆為基本原料發(fā)酵而成的咸味調(diào)味品，也就是“中華醬”。大豆， 因呈金黃色又被稱為“黃豆”，原產(chǎn)地是中國(guó)。中國(guó)也是醬的最早發(fā)明國(guó)，俗語(yǔ)說(shuō)：“百家醬，百家味”，家家戶戶一日三餐都離不開醬。有了醬，自然就有了“醬清”或“清醬”（《齊民要術(shù)》卷第八），也就是今天東方調(diào)味料代表“醬油”的前身。19 ～ 20世紀(jì)之交，遍布中國(guó)大中小城鎮(zhèn)的醬園幾乎都是紹興人創(chuàng)辦的。

In Shaoxing， the second-best well-known drinkis a salty seasoning known as “Chinese sauce” madefrom fermented soybeans. Soybeans， often referredto as yellow beans because of their golden hue， havetheir origins in China. China holds the distinction ofbeing the earliest innovator of sauces， as the popularsaying goes： “A hundred families， a hundred flavors，”underscoring the indispensable role of sauces in dailymeals. It was from this tradition that “base sauce”or “sauce base” emerged （Qimin Yaoshu， volume 8），serving as the precursor to the quintessential orientalseasoning we know today as soy sauce. At the turn ofthe 20th century， soy sauce factories sprang up in citiesand towns across China， with a significant numberbeing established by individuals from Shaoxing.

中國(guó)同時(shí)是茶的故鄉(xiāng)，浙江是歷史上的產(chǎn)茶和飲茶大省。浙江龍井茶素以色翠、形美、香郁、味醇享譽(yù)國(guó)內(nèi)外，榜列“中國(guó)十大名茶”之首。杭州的西湖聞名世界，西湖龍井春茶更為品茶人津津樂(lè)道。因?yàn)辇埦璧拿烂秃贾莶璧膬?yōu)質(zhì)，也因?yàn)檎憬孙嫴栉幕膬?yōu)雅醇厚風(fēng)習(xí)，杭州有了“中國(guó)茶都”的美譽(yù)，所謂“茶為國(guó)飲，杭為茶都”。

China， as the birthplace of tea， boasts a richhistory of tea production and consumption， withZhejiang playing a prominent role in this tradition.Zhejiangs Longjing tea， famous for its emerald hue，graceful appearance， fragrant aroma， and smooth?taste， tops the “Ten Famous Teas of China.” Just asthe West Lake in Hangzhou is known worldwide，Longjing spring tea is cherished by tea connoisseurs.Thanks to the fame of Longjing tea and theexceptional quality of Hangzhou tea， combined withZhejiangs refined tea culture， Hangzhou rightfullyearns the title of “Chinas Tea Capital.” As the sayinggoes， “Tea is Chinas national drink， and Hangzhou isits tea capital.”

餐桌上有了珍珠般白粲粲、甘甜馨香的米飯，有了未飲醉眼、既飲醉心的紹興黃酒，有了賞心悅目、爽口清心的龍井茶，當(dāng)然還應(yīng)當(dāng)有美味佳肴。浙江菜品名不計(jì)其數(shù)，以四季時(shí)鮮、山珍海錯(cuò)而著名。油燜春筍、雪菜大湯黃魚，可謂浙江菜中最具代表性的菜品。筍是“蔬菜之王”，明清之際的美食家李漁（1611 ～ 1680）就對(duì)筍極盡贊美之詞。黃魚是東海特產(chǎn)，味極鮮美，用雪里蕻（hóng）腌煮湯，質(zhì)、色、香、味都達(dá)到中華菜的最高境界。有“東方的布里亞 · 薩瓦蘭”之稱的中華食圣袁枚（1716 ～ 1798）就是杭州人，他的《隨園食單》被稱為中國(guó)古代“食經(jīng)”，200多年來(lái)印行無(wú)數(shù)次，同時(shí)還有英、法、德、日、意、韓等多種譯本。書中記載了434種經(jīng)典食品，絕大部分仍然可以在現(xiàn)今的大眾餐桌上見到，其中就有幾十種浙江食品。浙江菜、杭州味，在這位偉大的美食家心里留下了深刻美好的記憶。

Now that we have the fragrant white rice， thealluring scent of Shaoxing yellow wine， and theinvigorating flavor of Longjing tea at the table， nomeal is complete without delectable dishes. Zhejiangcuisine boasts an array of dishes celebrated for theirseasonal freshness and the bounty of mountain and seatreasures. Among them， “Oil-Braised Spring BambooShoots” and “Yellow Croaker Soup with PreservedMustard Greens” are quintessential examples ofZhejiang culinary artistry. Bamboo shoots， reveredas the “king of vegetables，” earned praise fromgastronome Li Yu （1611—1680） during the transitionfrom the Ming to the Qing dynasties. Yellow croaker，fished from the East China Sea， is best served whensimmered in soup with preserved mustard greens，epitomizing the pinnacle of Chinese cuisine in terms oftexture， aroma， and taste. Hangzhou native Yuan Mei（1716—1798）， known as the “Oriental Jean Anthelme?Brillat-Savarin，” authored Recipes from the Garden ofContentment， revered as an ancient Chinese culinarymasterpiece. Reprinted numerous times over the pasttwo centuries and translated into various languages，including English， French， German， Japanese， Italian，and Korean， this work catalogs 434 classic dishes，many of which still grace dining tables today， includingdozens of Zhejiang specialties. Zhejiang cuisine， with itsdistinctive Hangzhou flair， leaves a lasting and delightfulimpression on the palate of this discerning gourmet.

晉代文學(xué)家張翰（生卒年不詳）因?yàn)檩圆?、莼羹、鱸魚膾的美味之戀，干脆連官也不當(dāng)，從洛陽(yáng)回到了江南的家鄉(xiāng)。一生宦海顛簸不如意的宋代文學(xué)家蘇軾（1037 ～ 1101），曾兩度任職杭州，在那里度過(guò)了他人生中最快樂(lè)的時(shí)光。他主持疏浚西湖工程，留下了“蘇堤”美景，也留下了“東坡肉”佳話，這在位于西湖東南畔的中國(guó)杭幫菜博物館里有生動(dòng)的場(chǎng)景展現(xiàn)，吸引著絡(luò)繹不絕的海內(nèi)外游客。贊美浙江的詩(shī)文也可謂浩如煙海。唐代大詩(shī)人白居易（772 ～ 846）的“江南憶，最憶是杭州”（《憶江南三首 · 其二》），道出了歷史上無(wú)數(shù)人的心聲，也成為今日浙江人的欣慰和無(wú)數(shù)世人的向往。

During the Jin Dynasty， Zhang Han， a scholar whose birth and death dates remainunknown， became so captivated by the exquisite flavors of water bamboo， water shieldsoup， and braised bass that he relinquished his official post and returned to his hometownin Jiangnan from Luoyang. Su Shi （1037—1101）， a scholar of the Song Dynasty， amidst thevicissitudes of officialdom， found his utmost joy during his two tenures in Hangzhou. It wasthere that he supervised the dredging of the West Lake， leaving behind the picturesque “SuCauseway” and the legendary “Dongpo Pork.” These narratives are vividly showcased today inthe Chinese Hangzhou Cuisine Museum on the southeastern shore of the West Lake， drawinginnumerable Chinese and international visitors. Praise for the beauty of Zhejiang in poetry andprose stretches as boundless as the sea. The great poet of the Tang Dynasty， Bai Juyi （772—846），wrote in his poem “Dreaming of Jiangnan， it is Hangzhou I adore.” （“Recollections of Jiangnan，Poem Two”）. This sentiment， resonating with countless individuals throughout history， servesas a source of solace for the people of Zhejiang and a cherished dream for countless othersworldwide.