The Return of Super-thin Models:A Worrying Trend瘦模重現(xiàn) 令人心憂

吳曉雷/譯

At a time when anxieties about body image are rife1， the idealisation of skinniness is too dangerous to leave to the whims of the fashion industry.

在人們普遍為身體形象焦慮的時(shí)代，將骨感奉為理想形象危害太大，絕不能任由時(shí)尚界心血來(lái)潮。

Reports from the high-profile catwalk shows have sent a shiver through the bones of the body positivity movement2. Wafer-thin bodies appear to be back in vogue， in costumes that both hide little and depend on having little to hide. The most striking example was at Paris fashion week， where Bella Hadid， a model for the French designers Coperni， stood almost naked for nine minutes while a dress was sprayed on to her body.

從備受矚目的幾大T臺(tái)時(shí)裝秀傳來(lái)的消息，好似徹骨寒風(fēng)，吹透了“身體自愛(ài)運(yùn)動(dòng)”。瘦削如紙的模特穿著遮不住多少身體、也沒(méi)多少身體可遮的時(shí)裝，她們的身材似乎再度流行起來(lái)。巴黎時(shí)裝周上貝拉·哈迪德的亮相令人最為印象深刻。這位為法國(guó)時(shí)尚品牌“科佩尼”走秀的模特，幾乎全裸地在臺(tái)上站了九分鐘，由技術(shù)人員為她噴涂出一身連衣裙。

It’s in the nature of the fashion industry to be fickle， and to reflect idealised images that have little to do with the day-to-day reality of people. You only have to look back at the work of， say， Zandra Rhodes to appreciate that catwalk designs are artworks： the veteran British designer has even set up her own museum in London to celebrate this fact.

變幻不定是時(shí)尚界的天性，而且這個(gè)行業(yè)本來(lái)就要展現(xiàn)和人們?nèi)粘Ｉ畲笙鄰酵サ睦硐胄蜗?。你只要回顧一下贊德拉·羅茲的作品，就能理解T臺(tái)時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)屬于藝術(shù)品。為了彰顯這一事實(shí)，這位資深的英國(guó)設(shè)計(jì)師甚至在倫敦建造了她自己的藝術(shù)館。

However， the ideal of the ultra-thin model has come to be connected over the years with all sorts of damaging behaviours， from fat-shaming to eating disorders among young men and women. It is particularly worrying to hear the term “heroin chic3”， three decades after Kate Moss strutted it4 down the catwalk.

然而，骨感模特的理想形象多年來(lái)已經(jīng)和肥胖羞辱、青年男女飲食紊亂等種種有害行為聯(lián)系在了一起。距離凱特·莫斯在T臺(tái)上炫耀自己的骨感已經(jīng)30年了，再次聽到“海洛因時(shí)尚”這個(gè)詞，格外令人心憂。

Though Ms Moss has distanced herself from the term， telling Radio 4’s Desert Island Discs that she was just naturally thin， one must not forget its association with others who were not so lucky， such as the American supermodel Gia Carangi， whose life， and premature death at the age of 26， were commemor-ated in a 1998 film starring Angelina Jolie.

在英國(guó)廣播公司第四電臺(tái)的《荒島唱片》欄目中，莫斯女士說(shuō)自己天生瘦削，撇清了自己與“海洛因時(shí)尚”的關(guān)系，然而，我們不要忘了，其他和這個(gè)詞緊緊聯(lián)系在一起的人并沒(méi)有那么幸運(yùn)，比如26歲就香消玉殞的吉雅·卡蘭芝。1998年上映的一部由安吉莉娜·朱莉主演的電影，就是用來(lái)紀(jì)念這位早逝美國(guó)超模的一生。

The body positivity movement itself has come in for some criticism for condoning obesity and encouraging a different range of eating disorders， but in the fashion industry it has largely meant embracing models who are simply bigger than average.

因?qū)Ψ逝趾透鞣N不同的飲食失調(diào)行為有縱容、鼓動(dòng)之嫌，“身體自愛(ài)運(yùn)動(dòng)”本身也受到了一些批評(píng)。然而，這一運(yùn)動(dòng)在時(shí)尚界主要意味著接納體型比普通模特更大的模特。

Plus-size—or “curve”—models are not going away， according to analysts for the search engine Tagwalk， and one of their number， the American Paloma Elsesser， is among the world’s most sought-after catwalk stars. Yet moves by social media companies such as Instagram and TikTok to protect users from the pursuit of #thinspo （thin inspiration5） underline that this is no time for complacency.

時(shí)尚搜索引擎Tagwalk的分析員稱，大碼——或者說(shuō)“曲線分明”的——模特并未消失，美國(guó)大碼模特帕洛馬·埃爾塞瑟還是全球最受人追捧的T臺(tái)明星之一。然而，諸如Instagram和TikTok這樣的社交媒體平臺(tái)，還是紛紛推出舉措，保護(hù)其用戶免受“勵(lì)瘦”話題影響。這就是在向我們強(qiáng)調(diào)，想要沾沾自喜，還為時(shí)尚早。

In 2017 real progress was made when two leading fashion conglomerates banned size zero models. France had recently followed Italy， Spain and Israel in legislating against the use of any who were “unrealistically thin”. The UK has yet to follow suit， leaving it to the Advertising Standards Authority to ban advertisements featuring unhealthily thin models in response to public complaints. This is shutting the gate after the cat has walked.

到了2017年，兩大時(shí)裝巨頭棄用零碼模特，這才算實(shí)質(zhì)上的進(jìn)展。最近，繼意大利、西班牙和以色列之后，法國(guó)也立法禁止雇用“過(guò)分瘦削”的模特。英國(guó)雖未跟進(jìn)，不過(guò)面對(duì)公眾的抱怨，英國(guó)廣告標(biāo)準(zhǔn)局也下了禁令，不得用病態(tài)瘦弱的模特拍攝廣告。這也算是亡羊補(bǔ)牢。

In 2021， the parliamentary women and equalities committee published a damning report on the government’s approach to eating disorders and body image. They were responding to a submission by academics involved in a long-term research project in north-east England， whose recommendations included legislation on a minimum body mass index6 for models. It is an issue too important to leave to the whims of fashion.

2021年，為回應(yīng)一些學(xué)者提交的建議，英國(guó)議會(huì)的婦女與平等委員會(huì)發(fā)布了一份報(bào)告，言辭激烈地譴責(zé)了政府在飲食紊亂和身體形象問(wèn)題上的態(tài)度。這些學(xué)者在英格蘭東北部進(jìn)行了一項(xiàng)長(zhǎng)期研究，他們的建議包括立法規(guī)定模特的最低體重指數(shù)。茲事體大，不可任憑時(shí)尚界左右風(fēng)向。

（譯者為“《英語(yǔ)世界》杯”翻譯大賽獲獎(jiǎng)?wù)撸?/p>

1 rife（壞事）盛行的，普遍的。? 2 body positivity movement身體自愛(ài)運(yùn)動(dòng)，最早興起于20世紀(jì)90年代的美國(guó)，旨在鼓勵(lì)人們對(duì)自己的身體持肯定和接受的態(tài)度。

3 heroin chic海洛因時(shí)尚，20世紀(jì)90年代早期流行的時(shí)尚風(fēng)格，以頹廢、病態(tài)為美，以瘦削的身材和蒼白的膚色為特征。? 4 strut sth（尤指在跳舞或表演時(shí)）賣弄自己那一套；露一手。

5 thin inspiration勵(lì)瘦，即勵(lì)志瘦身，一項(xiàng)通過(guò)社交媒體發(fā)起的減肥運(yùn)動(dòng)，主要在女性群體中流行。? 6 body mass index體重指數(shù)（BMI），衡量人體肥胖程度的一個(gè)指標(biāo)，用體重（kg）除以身高（m）平方得出的數(shù)值。