“唐蕃古道”青海段

百茶客

距今大約1 300 年，文成公主的車隊從長安（今陜西西安）出發(fā)，一路浩浩蕩蕩駛向邏些（今西藏拉薩）。史書中沒有她當時感受的記載，但不管怎樣，文成公主對自己的遠嫁及其以后的人生軌跡肯定有著清楚的認識。唐朝和吐蕃（bō）的這次聯(lián)姻開創(chuàng)了漢藏民族交往的新歷史。

About 1，300 years ago， the caravan of PrincessWencheng departed from Chang’an （now Xi’an，Shaanxi Province） and embarked on a majestic journeyto what is now Lhasa in Xizang. There is no historicalrecord of her feelings at that time， but regardless，the princess surely had a clear understanding of thesignificance of her being married off to such a farawayland and the drastic shift in her life trajectory. Throughher marriage， the Tang Dynasty and the TibetanTubo Kingdom formed a union， which marked thebeginning of a new chapter in the history of culturalexchange between the Han and Tibetan ethnicities.

我們通過陪嫁物品可以看出，當時朝廷對聯(lián)姻的重視程度—陪嫁物品中除了有大量的珍寶，還有紡織品、藥物、谷種、蠶種、樂器、書籍等，以及隨行的一批從事手工藝的工匠和樂工。這支隊伍一路西行，一路傳播大唐文化，跨越了今天的陜西、甘肅、青海、四川和西藏等五個省區(qū)，全長約3 000 公里。其中，一半以上的進藏之路是在青海境內，因而文成公主西嫁對青海地區(qū)產生了深遠的影響，后人把這條要道稱為“唐蕃古道”。

The significance attached to the princess’s marriageis reflected in the extravagance of the dowry providedby the Tang court. In addition to numerous treasures，there were also textiles， medicines， grains， silkworms，musical instruments， books， and a group of craftsmenand musicians. The caravan travelled westward，spreading the Tang culture along the way， crossing theprovinces and regions of Shaanxi， Gansu， Qinghai，Sichuan， and Xizang， covering a total distance ofapproximately 3，000 kilometers. More than half of thejourney took place within Qinghai， where the princesslater had a profound impact. This important routecame to be known as the “Ancient Tangbo Road.”

“唐蕃古道”與“茶馬古道”“絲綢之路”并稱為三大古道，是唐朝以來中原內地經青海、西藏溝通尼泊爾的重要道路。據(jù)《新唐書》記載，自唐太宗貞觀元年之后的200余年間，漢藏民族沿著唐蕃古道密切交往，唐朝和吐蕃使臣往來多達142次。唐蕃古道成為促進中原地區(qū)和青海、西藏民族日常交往、文化交流、貿易往來的重要紐帶。雙方使節(jié)、商人等頻繁交會于此， 呈現(xiàn)出“金玉綺繡，問遺往來，道路相望，歡好不絕”的繁華場景。

The “Ancient Tangbo Road，” alongwith the “Ancient Tea-Horse Road” andthe “Silk Road，” are collectively knownas the three major ancient roads. Sincethe Tang Dynasty， it has served as animportant route connecting the centralplains of China with Nepal via Qinghaiand Xizang. According to the New Bookof Tang， for over 200 years after the firstyear of Zhenguan Reign （627） of EmperorTaizong （598–649） of the Tang Dynasty，there were 142 exchanges between Han?and Tibetan envoys. The AncientTangbo Road became a vital linkthat promoted daily communication，cultural exchange， and trade betweenthe central plains and Qinghai andXizang. Diplomats and merchantsfrom both sides frequently met here.The scene of prosperity is describedin a prose in the New Book of Tang ： “Isee a splendid sight of gold， jade andsilk， continuous exchanges of greetingsand goods， endless lines of people andendless waves of joy.”

文成公主離開唐朝進入吐蕃，首先要翻越青海西寧的日月山。日月山處于黃土高原與青藏高原的疊合區(qū)，是青海省內流河和外流河的天然分界線，因此當?shù)赜小叭赵律?，日月山，海拔三千三，回頭看有人煙，向前看青草灘，一望無邊”的說法。相傳，文成公主經過這里時，只見天地無邊無際，思鄉(xiāng)之情油然而生，便取出臨行前唐太宗所賜的“日月寶鏡”，不料鏡中出現(xiàn)的竟是長安的繁華景色。公主悲喜交加，不忍細看，毅然將寶鏡拋下，希望長安美景能在此地扎根。寶鏡摔成了兩半，摔在東邊的是“日鏡”，摔在西邊的是“月鏡”，化為今天的“日”“月”二山。

Princess Wencheng had to cross the Riyue Mountainin Xining， Qinghai on her journey to the Tibetan TuboKingdom. The mountain is located at the junction of theLoess Plateau and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau， serving asa natural boundary between rivers flowing within andoutside Qinghai. Thus there is a local saying that goes，“Riyue Mountain， Riyue Mountain， 3，300 meters high /looking back， signs of man / looking forward， allgrasslands as far as the eyes can see.” Legend has it thatwhen Princess Wencheng passed through this area，finding herself surrounded by an infinite expanse ofsky and land， she became stricken by homesickness.So she took out the “Riyue Treasure Mirror” bestowedupon her by Emperor Taizong before her departure.Unexpectedly， what she found in the mirror was thebustling scenery of Chang’an. Overwhelmed withmixed emotions， she couldn’t bear to look any longerand resolutely cast the mirror to the ground， wishingthat the beautiful scenery of Chang’an would take?root under her feet. The mirror broke into two halves.The half fell on the east side became the “Ri Mirror（meaning Mirror of the Sun），” and the half fell on thewest side turned into the “Yue Mirror （meaning Mirrorof the Moon），” which together transformed into thepresent-day Riyue Mountain.

唐蕃古道也是一條文化傳播的古道。青海處于唐蕃古道的核心地段，唐朝與吐蕃交流的日益頻繁，也帶動了佛教文化在當?shù)氐膫鞑?。佛教從內地和吐蕃兩個方向分別傳入青海，由此出現(xiàn)了漢傳佛教和藏傳佛教在青海地區(qū)的交匯。當時，文成公主的車隊就帶有釋迦佛像、佛學經典等佛教物品，一路前行，遍傳佛法，所以當?shù)厝俗鸱Q唐蕃古道為“迎佛路”。

The Ancient Tangbo Road was also celebrated as aroute of cultural dissemination. Qinghai， located in thecore section of the Ancient Tangbo Road， witnessedan increasing frequency of exchanges between theTang Dynasty and the Tibetan Tubo Kingdom，which also promoted the spread of Buddhism in theregion. Buddhism entered Qinghai from both theinterior regions and the Tibetan Tubo Kingdom，giving rise to the convergence of Han Buddhism andTibetan Buddhism in Qinghai. At that time， PrincessWencheng’s caravan carried Buddhist artifacts suchas statues of Shakyamuni Buddha and Buddhistscriptures， spreading Buddhism along the way. Thisis why local people reverently refer to the road as the“Road of Welcoming the Buddha.”

自唐蕃之道興盛以來，青海玉樹地區(qū)，即古河湟地區(qū)，便逐漸成為佛教的弘傳中心。藏民中享有盛譽的禪古寺便坐落在玉樹。每逢禪古寺的盛大節(jié)日，都會有藏傳佛教的神秘舞蹈“金剛舞”的表演。由于這種機會很難得，所以每當這個時候，遠近村民都會前來觀看，場面非常壯觀。

The bustling of the Ancient Tangbo Road led tothe gradual growth of Yushu in Qinghai， which wasformerly known as the Ancient Hehuang Region，into a center for the teaching of Buddhism. Forexample， Changu Temple， which was much reveredby the Tibetan people， is located here. It is where themysterious dance of Vajra， a ritual dance of TibetanBuddhism， is performed. On grand festive occasions，villagers from near and far flock to enjoy the raregrandeur， creating a spectacular scene.

相傳，文成公主進藏途中在玉樹貝納溝停留最久，當?shù)氐牟刈迨最I率群眾為她舉行了隆重的歡迎儀式，文成公主頗為感動，在停留的日子里傳授當?shù)厝罕姼?、紡織等技術。據(jù)史料記載，文成公主一行途經玉樹時在巖壁上雕刻了九尊佛像，這就是現(xiàn)存的“大日如來佛堂”，也叫“文成公主廟”。 該廟坐北朝南，前面是一條流淌的小河，背面是松柏繁盛的山巒，風景非常優(yōu)美。廟四周的懸崖和面積較大的石頭上都刻著數(shù)不清的藏經。廟門旁有一塊碑石，記載了當年修建廟宇的歷史。廟內殿堂正上方的巖壁上刻有九尊浮雕佛像，居中的主佛像便是大日如來佛像。佛像高7.3 米，面目慈祥，神態(tài)端莊，栩栩如生。

Legend has it that during Princess Wencheng’sjourney into Tubo， she made the longest stopover inthe Beinagou Valley in Yushu. The local Tibetan leaderand the people held a grand welcome ceremony forher， which deeply moved her. During her stay， shetaught the local people to farm and weave. Historicalrecords mention that while passing through Yushu，the princess’s convoy had nine Buddha statues carvedon the cliff. This is what remains today as the “GreatSun Tathagata Hall，” also known as the “PrincessWencheng Temple.” The temple faces south， with aflowing river in front and flourishing pine and cypressmountains behind， presenting a beautiful scenery. Thecliffs surrounding the temple and the large stones areengraved with countless Tibetan scriptures. Next to thetemple gate， there is a stone stele that records the historyof the temple’s construction. On the rock wall above themain hall of the temple， there are nine relief Buddhastatues， among which the central one is the statue ofthe Great Sun Tathagata. Standing at 7.3 meters tall，the Buddha statue features a compassionate face and adignified posture， appearing vivid and lifelike.

文成公主這一路走走停停，整整花費了三年時間。從唐蕃古道青海段出土的文物中，我們可以清晰地看到當時文化交流、民族融合的繁榮景象。比如，出土的文物中有大量的胡人俑。胡人來自唐朝北方和西方的游牧民族，唐朝實行開放寬容的民族政策，有很多胡人商人往來首都長安。出土的胡商俑等文物有力地證明了當時唐蕃古道上不僅有漢族和藏族的交流往來，而且有胡商之間頻繁的文化交流。

Princess Wencheng and her convoy travelledon and off for a total of three years. The unearthedartifacts from the Qinghai section of the AncientTangbo Road vividly display the flourishing scenes ofcultural exchange and ethnic integration at that time.For example， among the unearthed artifacts were alarge number of Hu figurines. The Hu people comefrom nomadic ethnic groups of the northern andwestern regions during the Tang Dynasty. With itspolicy of openness and tolerance towards ethnicities，the Tang Dynasty saw frequent exchanges with Humerchants who travelled to the capital city of Chang’an.The unearthed Hu merchant figurines and otherartifacts provide strong evidence that the Han peoplenot only exchanged with Tibetan ethnicities but alsowith Hu merchants along the Ancient Tangbo Road.

“天空最亮的星星是太陽，人間最美的寶物是黃金，漢妃大姐的心靈呦，勝過太陽，勝過黃金?！边@是流傳在唐蕃古道上人們贊美文成公主的民歌，歌曲中的“漢妃大姐”就是文成公主。千百年來，斗轉星移，朝代更迭，但文成公主的故事早已成為流芳百世的美談。唐蕃古道在今天依舊發(fā)揮著交通運輸和文化交流的重要功能，讓中原內地和青藏高原緊密相連，在波瀾壯闊的變遷中書寫著一個又一個傳奇。

“The brightest star in the sky is the sun; the most precious treasure on earth is gold. Brighter than the sun andmore precious than gold is the heart of the Han Princess.” This is a folk song praising Princess Wencheng， the “HanPrincess，” that has been passed down along the Ancient Tangbo Road. Over the centuries and amidst the changesof dynasties， the story of Princess Wencheng has become a timeless legend. Today， the Ancient Tangbo Road stillplays an important role in transportation and cultural exchange， connecting the central plains and the Qinghai-TibetPlateau closely， writing its own legendary chapters in the grand history.