一種有靈魂的燒烤

翟英華

齊齊哈爾（別稱“鶴城”），松嫩平原上一顆璀璨的明珠，達(dá)斡爾語(yǔ)為“天然牧場(chǎng)”。豐富的自然資源，優(yōu)美的生態(tài)環(huán)境，無(wú)污染的優(yōu)質(zhì)水源，為這座城市贏得了“綠色食品之都”的美譽(yù)。

Qiqihar， “natural pasture” in the Daur language， is a brilliant pearl on the Songnen Plain. It is alsoknown as the “Crane City” for its crane nature reserve. the abundant natural resources， beautiful ecologicalenvironment， and unpolluted high-quality water sources have earned this city the reputation of the “Capital ofGreen Food”.

這里居住著漢族、滿族、蒙古族、朝鮮族、回族、達(dá)斡爾族等35 個(gè)民族。因長(zhǎng)期以來(lái)有燒烤的飲食習(xí)慣，久而久之這座城市便形成了獨(dú)特的飲食風(fēng)尚，被世界中餐業(yè)聯(lián)合會(huì)授予“齊齊哈爾國(guó)際（烤肉）美食之都”榮譽(yù)稱號(hào)。這里的烤肉極具北方地域特色，有較高的傳承價(jià)值，被列為市級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)代表性項(xiàng)目。

Here reside thirty-thve ethnic groups， including Han， Manchu， Mongolian， Korean， Hui， and Daur. Due tothe long-standing tradition of barbecue in their diet， a unique culinary style has emerged in this city， whichwas honored with the title of “Qiqihar Global （Barbecue） Food Capital” by the World Federation of ChineseCatering Industry. Deeply rooted in the northern region with profound cultural value， the local barbecue hasbeen listed as a representative project of the city’s intangible cultural heritage.

齊齊哈爾烤肉大規(guī)模的興起是在20 世紀(jì)80 年代中后期，在全國(guó)乃至世界各地?zé)疚幕挠绊懴?，新疆烤串、錦州烤肉、南美烤肉、韓式烤肉、朝鮮烤肉、土耳其烤肉、蒙古烤全羊等融入鶴城燒烤，造就了齊齊哈爾烤肉兼容并收的特點(diǎn)。當(dāng)?shù)責(zé)拘袠I(yè)，由“小餐飲”到“大產(chǎn)業(yè)”，日新月異，餐桌上的燒烤文化逐漸形成。

The widespread popularity of Qiqihar barbecue beganin the mid-to-late 1980s， influenced by barbecue culturesfrom all over China and the world. Elements from Xinjiangskewers， Jinzhou barbecue， South American barbecue， SouthKorean barbecue， North Korean barbecue， Turkish barbecue，Mongolian whole lamb barbecue， etc.， have blended into thebarbecue culture of the Crane City， giving it an eclectic charm.The local barbecue industry has evolved from small cateringbusinesses to a large-scale industry， gradually forming aunique barbecue culture on dining tables.

在齊齊哈爾，不分民族，無(wú)論男女老少，人人皆愛(ài)燒烤。燒烤成為一種特有的休閑方式，在野外、江邊、小區(qū)旁、街邊、烤吧、餐廳，到處都可以尋到燒烤的足跡。一齊齊哈爾小伙兒在江蘇衛(wèi)視著名的《非誠(chéng)勿擾》節(jié)目中說(shuō)道：“寧愿開(kāi)一個(gè)燒烤店，也不打理珠寶店！”這從側(cè)面肯定了齊齊哈爾燒烤在這座城市中的地位。

In Qiqihar， regardless of ethnicity， gender， or age，everyone loves barbecue as a unique form of leisure activity.Barbecue gatherings can be found everywhere — inthe wilderness， along the riverbanks， near residential areas，on the streets， at barbecue bars， and at the restaurants. Ayoung man from Qiqihar stated on the famous JiangsuTV reality show If You Are the One： “I would rather opena barbecue restaurant than run a jewelry store！”， athrmingthe high status of barbecue in this city.

如果以“外焦里嫩、噴香可口”來(lái)形容齊齊哈爾燒烤的味道，那么超越這種感知， 在精神引領(lǐng)和價(jià)值追求的意義上，齊齊哈爾燒烤是以“綠色、自然、健康、美味”作底料、以“獨(dú)特、享受、狂放、野性、休閑、快樂(lè)”為靈魂的一種美食。齊齊哈爾市博物館的大型燒烤文化展覽，講述了齊齊哈爾人和烤肉的故事，展現(xiàn)了鶴城燒烤文化別樣的風(fēng)情。

If Qiqihar barbecue is described as “crispy on theoutside， tender and aromatic on the inside”， then beyondthis gustatory perception， in terms of spiritual and valuepursuits， Qiqihar barbecue features “green， natural， healthy，and delicious” ingredients with “uniqueness， enjoyment，wildness， leisure， and happiness” as its soul. The QiqiharCity Museum holds large-scale barbecue cultureexhibitions to tell the stories between Qiqihar people andbarbecue， allowing visitors to experience the unique charmof barbecue culture in the Crane City.

齊齊哈爾“燒烤文化”的歷史大約可追溯到一萬(wàn)年前，有考古學(xué)家發(fā)掘的動(dòng)物燒骨為證。在齊齊哈爾昂昂溪滕家崗、五福新石器文化遺址都不同程度地發(fā)現(xiàn)了古人用火的痕跡。青銅器時(shí)代和鐵器時(shí)代，燒烤成為嫩江流域先民們主要的食肉方式，為后人留下了漁獵文明的燒烤文化。

The history of Qiqihar “barbecue culture” canbe traced back approximately ten thousand years，evidenced by archaeologists’ discovery of animalbone remains from barbecue activities. Tracesof ancient people using fire have been found atAng’angxi Tengjiagang and Wufu Neolithic CulturalSites in Qiqihar. During the Bronze Age andIron Age， barbecue became the main way for theancestors of the Nen River Valley to consume meat，leaving behind a barbecue culture from the thshingand hunting civilization for later generations.

在齊齊哈爾吃燒烤是有講究的，從選肉到拌肉，每一步都有門(mén)道。齊齊哈爾地處北緯47°的寒地黑土帶—松嫩平原。松嫩平原牧草特別好，出產(chǎn)的黃牛和綿羊都是吃天然牧草長(zhǎng)大的，肉質(zhì)鮮嫩爽滑，品質(zhì)高端。

In Qiqihar， barbecue is an art. From selectingthe meat to marinating it， every step has its secrets.Qiqihar is located at 47° north latitude， in the blacksoil belt of cold regions， the Songnen Plain. erefore，as the cattle and sheep feed on natural pastures， theexcellent grass makes the beef and mutton producedhere especially tender and smooth in high-quality.

最好吃的牛肉是兩歲牛的紫蓋、上腦、肋扇兒，瘦中帶肥的最佳。放上烤盤(pán)，先用小塊牛油擦拭篦子，把篦子放在點(diǎn)燃炭火的烤鍋上，等牛肉烤到變色，肉質(zhì)外焦里嫩，焦到酥脆可口，嫩到入口即化，蘸上用花生、芝麻等原材料制成的蘸料，咬上一口，香味瞬間在唇齒間融化，令人回味無(wú)窮。

The best beef includes two-year-old cattle’ssilverside， chuck， and rib finger， among which abalance of lean and fat is the perfect choice. Afterplacing the beef on the grill， brush the grill with smallpieces of beef fat， then place it on the charcoal fire.When the beef turns crispy on the outside and tenderon the inside， dip it into a sauce made from peanuts，sesame， and other ingredients. With a delightfulcrunch， it melts in your mouth while the flavorimmediately dances on your taste buds， leaving alingering aftertaste.

這里的農(nóng)作物、蔬菜、瓜果多為有機(jī)無(wú)公害產(chǎn)品。燒烤除了烤牛肉，還可以烤大板、肉板、心管、腰子、宮后以及其他肉類，也可以烤蔬菜，如苦菊、油麥菜、香菜、菜椒、茄子、酸菜、藕片等，此外還有豆制品、菌類、薯類、海鮮、主食等。

The crops， vegetables， and fruits in Qiqiharare mostly organic and pollution-free products. Inaddition to beef， the barbecue includes various otherchoices include tendon， heart， kidney， and other meats，as well as vegetables like bitter chrysanthemum， oilseedrape， cilantro， bell pepper， eggplant， pickled cabbage，lotus root， and more. There are also soy products，mushrooms， potatoes， seafood， and staple foods.

烤肉除了原材料保留原汁原味，其配料、煨制、攪拌工藝也很講究，拌肉全憑手感。蔥、姜、洋蔥、啤酒、豆油、鹽等調(diào)料必不可少，放入的量、放入的時(shí)間等全靠經(jīng)驗(yàn)和手上功夫，咸淡適宜，入味三分，拌油不能多一分，也不能少一分，幾乎每個(gè)家庭都能培養(yǎng)出一兩個(gè)“拌肉高手”。

In addition to preserving the original thavors of theingredients， the seasoning， cooking， and mixing arealso crucial. The process relies entirely on experienceand skills. Seasonings like scallion， ginger， onion， beer，soybean oil， salt， etc.， are essential， and the quantityand timing of adding them depend on the chef ’sexperience and skill. the perfect balance of seasoningsand right amount of oil make the meat extremelythavorful. Almost every family has one or two barbecuemasters in their own right.

蘸料可以說(shuō)是齊齊哈爾烤肉的精髓，花生、芝麻、孜然、干辣椒、辣醬、餅干碎、味精和鹽等，隨心添加。烤熟的肉，蘸了不同的蘸料，味道就不一樣了?？救馑玫墓ぞ咭睬姘俟?，如鐵簽、爐、箱、車、簾、麥飯石、鏈條、鐵板、鐵網(wǎng)等。燃料有炭火和電火之分，炭火占絕大多數(shù)，分直接烤制和間接烤制。直接烤制又有明火、暗火之分，間接烤制也分為石板、鐵板、銅板等多種。木炭分為果木炭和雜木炭，果木炭源自硬質(zhì)木材，燒烤出的味道極佳。

The dipping sauce is said to be the essence ofQiqihar barbecue， which can be personalized withingredients like peanuts， sesame， cumin， dried chili，hot sauce， crushed biscuits， MSG， and salt. Differentdipping sauces create ditherent avors for the barbecue.The tools used for barbecue are various， such as ironskewers， stoves， boxes， carts， screens， maifanshi （atype of igneous rock used for grilling）， chains， ironplates， iron nets， etc. Fuel options include charcoaland electricity， with charcoal being the most common.there are direct grilling and indirect grilling methods，with direct grilling further divided into open thre andcovered fire， and indirect grilling into stone plates，iron plates， copper plates， etc. Fruitwood charcoal andmiscellaneous wood charcoal are the two main types ofcharcoal， with the former derived from hardwood andproducing an excellent barbecue thavor.

齊齊哈爾燒烤分為家庭式的“在野燒烤”、餐廳式的“在朝燒烤”以及介于兩者之間牛羊肉店的“自在燒烤”?？救饽Ｊ接邪卓?、泥烤、糊泥烤、串烤、腌烤、酥烤、掛糊烤、面烤、叉烤、鉤吊烤、明爐烤、暗爐烤、鐵鍋烤、竹筒烤、篝火烤等多種烤法，彰顯出燒烤的無(wú)限魅力。

Qiqihar barbecue can be classified into threetypes： family-style “wild barbecue”， restaurant-style“formal barbecue”， and something in between， the“casual barbecue” at beef and lamb restaurants.there are various methods of barbecue， includingplain grilling， mud grilling， mud-pasted grilling，skewer grilling， marinated grilling， crisp grilling，pasted grilling， pancake grilling， fork grilling， hookhanging grilling， open stove grilling， covered stovegrilling， iron pot grilling， bamboo tube grilling，bonthre grilling， and more， showcasing the inthnitecharm of barbecue.

每年的盛夏季節(jié)，齊齊哈爾都會(huì)舉辦大型“烤肉美食節(jié)”，人們欣賞鶴文化演出，吃各式烤肉，品嘗本地特釀的“北大倉(cāng)”酒，吟誦“齊齊哈爾烤肉賦”，書(shū)寫(xiě)、拍攝燒烤藝術(shù)作品，制作燒烤logo，舉辦燒烤文化論壇……燒烤在文人的筆下演繹成了舌尖上的“城市名片”。

During the peak of summer， Qiqihar hosts a large-scale“Barbecue Food Festival” where people enjoy crane culturalperformances， savor various barbecues， taste the locallybrewed “Beidacang” wine， recite odes to Qiqihar Barbecue， createartworks and logos related to barbecue， and hold barbecue cultureforums. Barbecue， depicted by writers and artists， has become the city’sname card on the tip of the tongue.

街邊燒烤店門(mén)前，一排排遮陽(yáng)傘下，伴隨著“滋啦滋啦”烤肉的聲響，三五好友圍坐桌旁，吹著夜風(fēng)，臨著炭火，大快朵頤地吃肉，喝著冰啤談天說(shuō)地，肉香裊裊，如詩(shī)如霧，熱烈又清涼，勾畫(huà)出炎炎夏日鶴城一道亮麗的燒烤美食文化風(fēng)景線。

In front of street-side barbecue shops， under rows of sunshades， the sizzlingsound of grilling accompanies friends sitting around the table. tey enjoy the nightbreeze， the charcoal thre， and the delicious meat while drinking cold beer and chatting.The aroma of barbecue fills the air like poetry and mist， warm yet refreshing， paintinga beautiful scene of barbecue culture in the scorching summer of the Crane City.