身心修復(fù)的夢幻之地

李立欣

五大連池位于黑龍江省五大連池市，被稱作“一本打開的火山教科書”，經(jīng)聯(lián)合國教科文組織批準為首批世界地質(zhì)公園。雖然五大連池的面積只有1 060 平方公里，卻有著眾多縱橫交錯的河流，其星羅棋布的泉眼有300 多個，其中包括世界三大冷礦泉之一的南、北飲泉。

Wudalianchi （literally meaning theve joint ponds） is located in WudalianchiCity， Heilongjiang Province in northeasternChina. Known as “an open textbookof volcanos”， it is enlisted in the firstbatch of Global Geoparks by UNESCO.Covering a moderate area of about 1，060square kilometers， the Ponds boast manyinterlacing rivers and over 300 scatteredsprings， including the South and NorthDrinking Spring Cluster， one of the world’sthree most renowned cold mineral springs.

“五大連池”這個名字，是滿語“烏德林池”的音譯。據(jù)史料記載，烏云和爾冬吉山的地下噴出火和石時，將烏德林河（后稱“白河”）截斷為五座湖泊，“五大連池”因此得名。以火山口為中心，生命由地衣、苔蘚、蕨類到草甸、樹林的衍生過程清晰可見。每一個過程都需數(shù)十年或數(shù)百年甚至上千年的修復(fù)和演進。當人們在感慨大自然浴火重生后不畏艱辛地自我修復(fù)時，不知不覺間也對生命產(chǎn)生了敬畏之心。

The name “Wudalianchi” is believed tobe a transliteration of the Manchu phrase“Wuderlinchi” （literary medning the UdelinPond）. According to historical records，the eruption of fire and stones from theunderground of Mount Wuyunherdongjicut the Udelin River （later known as theBaihe River） into ve smaller ponds， hencethe name “Wudalianchi”. Encircling thevolcanic crater at the Ponds are distinctlayers of life， from lichens at the innermostlayer to moss， ferns， meadows， andeventually ourishing forests. Each journeyof restoration and re-formation spansdecades， centuries， and even millennia.One cannot help but feel a profoundreverence for life as one contemplatesnature’s remarkable tenacity and vibrantvigor.

這里流傳著黑龍舍身守護生靈的故事。很多年前，有一條名叫“禿尾巴老李”的黑龍，他在與為害鄉(xiāng)鄰的小白龍大戰(zhàn)時，為了制止地火吞噬四周的生靈，竟用自己的身軀堵住了不斷噴涌的火口。后來，有地質(zhì)學(xué)家發(fā)現(xiàn)，這里的火山熔巖狀似龍。最著名的火山黑龍山，傳說曾經(jīng)是老李休息的地方。這里的黑龍廟供奉的神像是“黑龍王”，即禿尾巴老李。千百年來，人們一直感念黑龍對生靈的無私守護。

According to legend， a blackdragon， known as “Bald-Tail Li”，made a selfless sacrifice to protectthe local inhabitants. Many yearsago， Bald-Tail Li had a fierce battleagainst an evil white dragon. Tosafeguard the communities from theengulng ames of an undergroundfire， the black dragon valiantlyblocked the erupting vent with itsown body. As time passed， geologistscame and discovered volcanic lavaformations that resembled the shapeof a dragon in the area. Today， themost famous volcano in the area，Mount Black Dragon， is believedto have been the resting place ofBald-Tail Li， and enshrined in thehall of the Black Dragon Templeis a statue revered as the “BlackDragon King”. ?roughout the ages，people have been grateful for thesacred creature’s heroic efforts insafeguarding the local communities.

五大連池南、北飲泉的冷泉水，淺嘗時，口感有點兒類似蘇打水；暢飲時，頓覺周身舒爽。這里的礦泉水含有多種有益于人體健康的微量元素，曾經(jīng)被稱作“帶不走的圣水”，現(xiàn)在完全可以瓶裝后被帶到世界各地。不過，那些曾經(jīng)在“神泉”邊直接暢飲過的人，總會感覺裝瓶后的水少了那份恰到好處的爽冽口感。

The cold spring water from the South and NorthDrinking Springs oers a taste somewhat similar to sodawater at first sip and provides a revitalizing sensationthroughout the body when savored plentifully. Enrichedwith health-benefiting microelements， the spring waterwas once known as the “holy water” that could not betaken away. Today， tourists from around the world canbottle and take the spring water with them. Nevertheless，those fortunate enough to have drunk directly from the“sacred springs” know that the bottled water lacks theperfectly crisp and refreshing taste found in the naturalsource.

北飲泉俗稱“藥泉”。人們每年會舉辦慶?；顒樱心睢吧衤故舅睅淼母?。傳說有一位達斡爾族獵人，他在打獵時發(fā)現(xiàn)了一只受傷的小鹿，于是跟著小鹿來到了水池旁。結(jié)果，他看見小鹿在一個池子里喝了水，又在另一個池子里泡了一會兒，竟奇跡般地痊愈了。人們奔走相告，周邊的窮苦百姓從此開始用神水來守護健康。

The North Drinking Spring is also commonlyknown as the “Medicinal Spring”. Each year， peoplehost celebrating events to express their gratitude forthe blessings bestowed by divinity. Legend has it that aDaur hunter once traced a wounded deer to the ponds.To his astonishment， the deer miraculously healed afterdrinking from one pond and bathing in another. ?e wordof this wonder spreads， and the impoverished localsbegan using the divine water to preserve their health.

每年農(nóng)歷五月初五，人們都會來到五大連池，慶祝發(fā)現(xiàn)了神水。歷史上，鄂倫春族、鄂溫克族、蒙古族等稱其為“神水日”，滿族、漢族等稱其為“藥泉會”，現(xiàn)在這個節(jié)日正式定名為“圣水節(jié)”。圣水節(jié)每年的端午節(jié)開幕，歷時三天。生活在這里的20 多個民族的人們，以及八方來客，在端午節(jié)的午夜時分，都會爭先恐后地去飲一杯泉水，祈求一年的康健。

People gather at the Wudalianchi to celebrate thediscovery of the sacred water every year on the traditionaldate of the Dragon Boat Festival， which falls on the hday of the h month of the lunar calendar. Historically，this day was referred to as the “Divine Water Day” bythe Oroqen， Ewenki， and Mongolian people and the“Medicinal Spring Gathering Day” by Manchu and Hanethnicities. Today， the rituals， officially celebrated as the“Holy Water Festival”， begin at the Dragon Boat Festivaland last three days. When the day comes， local peoplefrom more than 20 ethnic groups， as well as tourists fromacross the world， eagerly drink a glass of spring water atmidnight， praying for a year of good health.

五大連池擁有著名的“泉浴場”和“泥浴場”。20 多年前，這里大多是戶外天然浴場，不限時間開放。當天氣轉(zhuǎn)暖時，人們便絡(luò)繹不絕地來到這里享受泉浴和泥浴。在冷泉中浸浴，喝上幾杯礦泉水，再配合泥浴，舒緩身體的疲勞和不適，心情也隨之愉悅起來。

One can also nd the renowned “Spring Bath Area”and “Mud Bath Area” here. Over two decades ago，this place consisted mostly of natural outdoor bathingspots， accessible at all times. Today， in the warmermonths， people ock here for an enjoyable experienceof spring and mud baths. Aer all， what compares toa refreshing cold spring bath， accompanied by a fewglasses of mineral spring water， and followed by arelaxing mud bath， when it comes to alleviating fatigueand lightening the mood？

關(guān)于洗礦泉浴，還有個“三泡三曬”的俗規(guī)。由于洗浴泉的水溫常年保持在10℃左右，初次嘗試，一定要注意時間不宜過長。在泉水中浸泡到全身放松后，就可以出水上岸，躺在被陽光曬得溫暖如炕的熔巖臺地上，盡情享受日光浴。身體變暖出汗后，去陰涼處休息一下，及時補充礦泉水，待身體恢復(fù)到常態(tài)，方可再次進入礦泉浸泡。如此反復(fù)地浸泡與日光浴交替進行，身體的自我修復(fù)能力就被激活了。

The locals firmly believe in the health benefits of“alternating spring baths and sunbaths， preferably forthree rounds”. The spring water temperature remainsaround 10°C （50°F） all year， so keeping the first bathshort is advisable. Once the whole body relaxes， onecan come out of the water and lie on the rock platform，warmed by the sun as if on a cozy kang （a Chinesestylebed in the northeastern region）， to fully enjoysunbathing. As the body warms up and starts to sweat，taking a break in the shade and drinking mineralwater is recommended. And remember to wait untilthe body returns to its normal temperature beforetaking another spring bath. ?is alternating approachinvigorates the body and enhances its self-repairingfunctions.

泥漿浴也非常值得嘗試。像孩童一樣，在泥里打個滾，讓全身沾滿泥漿，待洗去泥漿，就能體會到泥漿浴帶來的好處。難怪有人說：“五大連池的泥巴也是寶?！?/p>

te mud bath is also a must-try. Visitors can rollaround in the mud like a carefree child， and whenwashing off the mud from head to toe， they will beamazed by the pleasure and health benets brought bythe mud bath. No wonder people say that “even mud inthe Wudalianchi is a treasure”.