簪花漢服 讓世界看到中國之美

劉丁睿

On her head a golden sparrow hairpin; At her waist a green jade pendant. While encompassing her lovely form， Pearls， coral and blue glass beads around. The Hanfu show held in the Paris street displayed the beauty of traditional Chinese clothing and shared the glamor of French classical architectures， bringing a unique cultural collision between the East and the West.

“This photo was taken on the ‘2018 Impression of China， Beauty of Chongqing International Culture and Art Tour in Paris （France），” said Zou Shenghe， Chair of Hanfu Culture Association of Jiangjin District of Chongqing and founder of Huaben Sinology School. Zou， dressed in Hanfu， was introducing this photo to the journalist.

Hairpin and Hanfu

At the exhibition area of the sinology school， many eye-catching Hanfu accessories are on display， including a glass hairpin in the shape of peach blossoms， a cap with an inlaid pattern of two dragons playing with a pearl， a necklace with bead tassels， a silver comb and so on. “In ancient China， accessories were often used as love tokens by young men and women to represent and express their pure affection，” said Zou Shenghe， with a hairpin in his hand. The peach-blossom-patterned hairpin was made with colorful glass flakes connected by one single string and intertwined in the shape of peach blossoms. It symbolizes lingering love， faithfulness， and earnestness.

The original materials for glass-making were extracted from the by-products of bronze. Glass was rich in color， so the ancient Chinese people named it “colorful stone”. Ordinary people can hardly get even one piece of glass， no surprise that it was more cherished than jade.

In June 2008， traditional glass-firing techniques were included in the second batch of the national list of intangible cultural heritage. The glass hairpin made by the Huaben Sinology School was also selected into the 2021 List of Chongqing Gifts for Diplomatic Purposes.

On the wall of Huaben Sinology School are hanging several restored exquisite Han clothing items， such as the coronation suit of the Emperor Wu of Han， a crane- patterned dress of Madam Widow Qing， Madam Xinzhuis dragon design Quju （curly robe）， and so on.

“This crane-patterned dress belonged to Madam Widow Qing in the Qin Dynasty. She was an entrepreneur， the queen of cinnabar in Chinas history. Her hometown was in the current Changshou District， Chongqing. We expected to express the elegance， intellectuality， and dignity of Madam Widow Qing when restoring this dress. So we made a black silk top with a red chiffon skirt， wrapping a crane-patterned wide-sleeve coat，” Zou Shenghe introduced.

Zous Story with Hanfu

Zou Shenghes hometown is Longhui County， Shaoyang City， Hunan Province. He is a veteran. His story with Hanfu started from a folk art activity at the Dragon Boat Festival several years ago. His breath was taken by the exquisiteness of Hanfu and the traditional ritual elegance. “Hanfu is one of the traditional Chinese clothing. It encompasses the dying， weaving， embroidery and other traditional techniques and aesthetic views， inheriting 30 plus techniques of traditional Chinese arts and crafts listed in Chinas intangible cultural heritage. I hope to be an ambassador of Hanfu culture to advocate its inheritance.” Zou Shenghe told us that he has been obsessed with Hanfu since the activity and made his decision to study Hanfu culture.

In 2014， Zou Shenghe decided to establish a Jiangjin Hanfu Club in his wifes hometown — Jiangjin District， Chongqing. In the same year， he established the Hanfu Culture Association of Jiangjin District， Chongqing. In 2015， he started Chongqing Huaben Han Culture Dissemination Co.， Ltd. In 2019， he opened the Huaben Sinology School， which is the first sinology school with Hanfu as its highlight.

Zou Shenghe also invited experts to conduct research and dissemination plans on Hanfu culture. He organized students to learn Hanfu culture and relevant rituals， held lectures and public activities related to traditional Chinese festivals and Hanfu culture. In 2021， the Hanfu Culture Association of Jiangjin District was authorized as a humanities and social sciences knowledge-spreading base in Chongqing.

Hanfu Culture Export

Clothing is a living interpretation of culture. But to Zou Shenghe， Hanfu is not simply clothing， but a symbol of traditional Chinese culture and ritual. In recent years， he has not only made efforts to recommend Hanfu to more Chinese people， but also explored ways to introduce it to the world.

In 2018， Huaben company brought its Hanfu to the “Impression of China， Beauty of Chongqing” International Culture and Art Tour in Paris （France）. The Hanfu show stopped Paris citizens steps and won high praise from Alexandra Cordebard， mayor of the 10th district of Paris. During the 14th China （Shenzhen） International Cultural Industries Fair （ICIF）， Huaben company introduced its Hanfu， accessories， and Hanfu culture through live-streaming to expand Hanfus influence. In the 2020 Chongqing Tourism and Culture Conference， the Jiangjin Hall designed and decorated by Huaben company attracted a large number of visitors to enjoy its Hanfu show and cultural creative products.

“I hope to introduce Hanfu culture to everyone in China and to the world， so more people will understand， love， and spread Chinese culture. I want to export Hanfu culture and let the world enjoy this Chinese exquisiteness.”

Photo by Interviewee （except signed pictures）

頭戴金爵釵，腰佩翠瑯玕。明珠交玉體，珊瑚間木難……亮相法國巴黎街頭的漢服秀展示出中國服章之美，與法國古典主義建筑交相輝映，上演了一場中西文化的別樣碰撞。

“這是參加2018年‘中國印象·秀美重慶文化藝術(shù)國際巡游法國行活動拍攝的?！敝貞c市江津區(qū)漢服文化協(xié)會會長、華本漢學(xué)館創(chuàng)始人鄒聲和身著漢服，向記者介紹這張照片的由來。

簪花與漢服

漢學(xué)館飾品展示區(qū)，桃夭琉璃簪花、花絲鑲嵌雙龍戲珠紋發(fā)冠、瓔珞項鏈、銀梳等琳瑯滿目的漢服配飾引人注目?！爸袊糯?，飾品常常被作為定情信物，是純潔愛情的象征和表達方式?！编u聲和拿起一款簪花介紹，這款桃夭琉璃簪花，選用流云漓彩、美輪美奐的琉璃片，由一根絲線纏繞而成，恰如情侶相思之情，表達的是一心一意，認真做人的進步思想。

中國古代制作琉璃的材料，最初是從鑄造青銅器產(chǎn)生的副產(chǎn)品中經(jīng)過提煉加工得到的。琉璃的顏色多種多樣，古人也叫它“五色石”。由于民間很難得到，所以琉璃比玉器還珍貴。

2008年6月，琉璃燒制技藝入選第二批國家級非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)名錄。華本漢學(xué)館打造的琉璃簪花入選2021“重慶好禮·外事禮品”。

漢學(xué)館墻上掛著由華本漢學(xué)館研究復(fù)原的漢武大帝加冕禮服、巴寡婦清仙鶴禮服、辛追夫人龍紋曲裾等一系列做工精致的漢服。

“這一件是巴寡婦清仙鶴禮服，來源于秦朝企業(yè)家巴寡婦清，她是重慶長壽人，中國歷史上的丹砂女王。我們復(fù)原這件禮服時，重點展現(xiàn)巴寡婦清的服飾與神韻，知性優(yōu)雅、端莊脫俗的氣質(zhì)與美感：黑色真絲上衣，紅色雪紡下裳，仙鵝印花大袖霞披外套?！编u聲和娓娓道來。

結(jié)緣漢服

鄒聲和是湖南邵陽隆回縣人，也是一名退伍軍人。他與漢服結(jié)緣，源于多年前的一次端午節(jié)民俗文化活動，被漢服展示出的美和漢禮之端深深震撼?！皾h服是中國傳統(tǒng)服飾，匯聚了染、織、繡等工藝和美學(xué)，承載了30多項中國非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)以及中國工藝美術(shù)技藝。我想成為漢服文化推介者，助力漢服文化傳承?！睆哪且院?，鄒聲和對漢服著了迷，并決定好好研究漢服文化。

2014年，鄒聲和選擇在其愛人的家鄉(xiāng)重慶市江津區(qū)創(chuàng)立江津漢服社，同年成立重慶市江津區(qū)漢服文化協(xié)會；2015年，成立重慶市華本漢文化傳播有限公司；2019年開設(shè)華本漢學(xué)館，這也是重慶市第一家以漢服文化為主題的漢學(xué)館。

在這里，鄒聲和邀請學(xué)術(shù)專家進行漢服文化的研究和推廣，組織學(xué)員學(xué)習漢服文化和漢服禮儀，舉辦漢服文化學(xué)術(shù)講座，以及傳統(tǒng)節(jié)日和漢服文化的公益活動。2021年，江津區(qū)漢服文化協(xié)會獲批重慶市人文社會科學(xué)普及基地。

漢服“出?！?/p>

服飾是文化的生動體現(xiàn)。漢服在鄒聲和心中不僅是衣服，更代表傳統(tǒng)文化和禮儀。近年來，在琢磨“墻內(nèi)開花”的同時，他更努力推動漢服“走出去”，讓世界看到中華優(yōu)秀傳統(tǒng)文化。

2018年，華本漢服參與“中國印象·秀美重慶”文化藝術(shù)國際巡游法國行活動，攜中國漢服秀亮相法國巴黎街頭，引得不少巴黎民眾駐足欣賞，巴黎第十區(qū)區(qū)長科爾德巴爾更是對漢服和飾品贊不絕口；第十四屆中國（深圳）國際文博會，華本漢服通過網(wǎng)絡(luò)直播介紹漢服及飾品，宣傳漢服文化，擴大漢服影響力；2020重慶文旅會，華本漢文化公司設(shè)計布展的江津館通過豐富多彩的漢服表演、琳瑯滿目的文創(chuàng)產(chǎn)品，吸引大量嘉賓前來看展。

“我的愿望是把漢服文化推向全國，推向世界，讓更多人了解、熱愛和發(fā)揚中國文化。漢服‘出海，讓世界看到中國之美?！?/p>

圖/除署名外由受訪者提供