世界各地的傳統(tǒng)服飾

文/艾麗絲·帕克 譯/黃媛

掃碼聽讀

From the Indian sari, to the Vietnamese conical hat, the world is full of varieties of traditional dress.While some are immersed in history and specific to the country’s culture, and others represent circumstance or status, they are almost always eye-catching.

從印度的紗麗到越南的斗笠，這世上的傳統(tǒng)服飾種類繁多。一些服飾受到了歷史的浸潤(rùn)，為特定國(guó)家文化所特有，還有一些是環(huán)境或地位的象征，但不變的是，它們幾乎總是光彩奪目的。

2鑒于了解傳統(tǒng)服飾有助于了解其所在的國(guó)家，我們收集了一些單品，讓您一覽世界各地傳統(tǒng)服飾之風(fēng)采。

The Sari, India

3Ostensibly the simplest item of clothing possible—a single length of fabric, up to nine metres long—the sari is also one of the world’s most versatile and stylish garments, which can be draped in dozens of different ways.The sari spans all of Indian society, from simple cotton versions that are woven in the street throughout the villages of India to extremely glamorous contemporary styles that grace the catwalk2catwalk供時(shí)裝秀場(chǎng)模特兒表演的T形臺(tái)。during IndiaFashionWeek.

印度紗麗

3乍一看，紗麗是最為簡(jiǎn)單的服飾——不過(guò)是一塊可長(zhǎng)達(dá)九米的布料而已——但它也是世上最百搭、最時(shí)尚的服飾之一，可以用數(shù)十種不同的方式披在身上。整個(gè)印度社會(huì)各階層?jì)D女都穿紗麗，既有印度各村街邊織造的簡(jiǎn)單樸素的棉質(zhì)紗麗，也有印度時(shí)裝周T臺(tái)展示的極盡華麗的現(xiàn)代紗麗。

Kilts, Scotland

4From Braveheart to Strictly Come Dancing, the kilt has been used to represent all things Scottish.Visit any Scottish Highland Games, and you’ll see that kilt-wearing traditions are alive and well,from the immaculately3immaculately特別整潔地；完美地。dressed competitive dancers to the pipe4pipe此處指bagpipe（風(fēng)笛）。players in formal attire and, most impressively of all,the participants in the “heavy events”—for you cannot toss a caber5toss a caber指蘇格蘭運(yùn)動(dòng)會(huì)傳統(tǒng)項(xiàng)目拋桿賽（caber toss）。參賽者必須身著短裙（kilt），拋擲一根被稱作caber的巨大木桿。標(biāo)準(zhǔn)桿長(zhǎng)為19英尺6英寸（約5.94米），重175磅（約79公斤）。木桿一頭較粗，一頭較細(xì)，參賽者抓住細(xì)端將木桿拋出，讓粗端著地。比賽最終結(jié)果不僅看誰(shuí)擲得遠(yuǎn)，更要看木桿落地后的垂直程度。同一木桿，穿上kilt來(lái)拋為caber，身著便服拋則只能叫l(wèi)og。故本句末尾不宜按照字面意思理解為“不穿kilt就沒法兒好好地投擲木樁”，而應(yīng)理解為“不穿上kilt，這蘇格蘭拋桿賽就總歸是少了些什么”。properly unless wearing a kilt.

1.2.3 Transwell實(shí)驗(yàn)檢測(cè)細(xì)胞遷移和侵襲能力 收集1.2.1穩(wěn)定表達(dá)miR-145SiHa細(xì)胞，無(wú)血清培養(yǎng)基制細(xì)胞懸液，接種于Transwell小室上層（3×103個(gè)/孔）［6］。Transwell小室風(fēng)干后，加入500 μL 0.1%結(jié)晶紫染色，顯微鏡下拍照并計(jì)數(shù)發(fā)生遷移的細(xì)胞數(shù)量。細(xì)胞侵襲實(shí)驗(yàn)在Transwell小室上層加入50 μL 2.0 mg/mL基質(zhì)膠Matrigel，凝固后接種SiHa細(xì)胞，之后同細(xì)胞遷移操作。

蘇格蘭短裙

4從電影《勇敢的心》到綜藝《舞動(dòng)奇跡》，蘇格蘭短裙一直被視為當(dāng)?shù)氐南笳?。參觀任何一場(chǎng)蘇格蘭高地運(yùn)動(dòng)會(huì)，您都會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)，穿著蘇格蘭短裙的傳統(tǒng)完好地延續(xù)至今：無(wú)論是衣著整潔的競(jìng)技舞者，還是身著盛裝的風(fēng)笛手，都穿蘇格蘭短裙。給人印象最深刻的，非參加“重量級(jí)”拋桿賽的選手們莫屬——除非穿上蘇格蘭短裙，否則這項(xiàng)運(yùn)動(dòng)的蘇格蘭特色就得大打折扣。

Tracht, Southern Germany and Austria

5Tracht—that’s lederhosen for men and dirndls6dirndl（見于德國(guó)南部一些地區(qū)和奧地利的）緊身闊擺連衣裙。for women—is the traditional dress across southern Germany and Austria.There are many variations on the basic styles depending on the area and on fashion, from the pom-pom hats of the Black Forest7德國(guó)西南部巴登-符騰堡州的山區(qū)。此地古樹參天，連綿起伏，遮天蔽日，故而得名。(bollenhut) to thoroughly modern versions.

德國(guó)南部和奧地利的日耳曼民族服裝

5說(shuō)到德國(guó)南部和奧地利的日耳曼民族服裝，男裝要數(shù)皮短褲，女裝則為緊腰闊擺連衣裙。根據(jù)地區(qū)和時(shí)尚的不同，基本款式亦有諸多變化，從德國(guó)黑林山的大絨球帽到現(xiàn)代感十足的款式，不一而足。

Balinese temple dress, Indonesia

印度尼西亞巴厘島寺廟禮服

6任何來(lái)印度尼西亞巴厘島寺廟觀光的香客，應(yīng)至少穿戴巴厘島傳統(tǒng)服裝中的兩個(gè)基本單品：一條腰帶（當(dāng)?shù)厝朔Qs e l e n d a n g）和一條當(dāng)?shù)厝朔Q為k a i n的紗籠裙。巴厘島女性為寺廟節(jié)日精心備制的全套禮服，包括可峇雅襯衫，充分展示了巴厘島華麗的紡織工藝，如紗線扎染和蠟染技藝。

6Anyone visiting a Balinese temple in Indonesia should at least wear two basic elements of Balinese traditional dress, a sash (selendang) and a sarong-style skirt known as a kain.However, the full Balinese outfit for women, which also includes the kebaya blouse, is an elaborate ensemble worn for temple festivals that shows off Bali’s gorgeous textiles, such as ikat8ikat扎染；扎染布。扎染古稱絞纈，是指在染色前，通過(guò)對(duì)布料進(jìn)行捆綁、縫制、折疊、纏繞、擠壓等方式讓染料不能對(duì)這些地方上色。weaving and batik, to the full.

Maasai beadwork, Kenya

7One of the smaller ethnic groups in Kenya, but one of the most recognisable, the Maasai’s reputation worldwide belies its size, no small part thanks to their stunning attire: brilliant red cloth,extraordinarily intricate beadwork and—for young men—long, ochre9ochre赭紅色。-dyed hair.The beadwork in particular contains much meaning, a bride’s collar being the pinnacle of Maasai craftsmanship.

肯尼亞馬薩伊珠飾

7馬薩伊族雖是肯尼亞較小的民族之一，卻也是最為知名的民族之一。盡管人口不多，卻能在世界上獲得廣泛聲譽(yù)，這在很大程度上要?dú)w功于他們絕美的裝束：鮮艷的紅色布料、巧奪天工的珠飾，以及年輕男子染成赭紅色的長(zhǎng)發(fā)。珠飾的內(nèi)涵尤其豐富。新娘的項(xiàng)圈是馬薩伊工藝的巔峰之作。

Herero women, Namibia

8The traditional dress of the Herero women in Namibia is an adaptation of Victorian dress, as worn by the German colonists they fought in a bloody conflict at the start of the twentieth century, and now retained as a proud part of Herero identity.The silhouette is distinctive: a full, floor-length skirt,fitted bodice with puffed sleeve, with a magnificent horn-shaped hat, the shape of cattle horns, completing the look.

納米比亞赫雷羅族女性服飾

8納米比亞赫雷羅女性的傳統(tǒng)裙裝源自維多利亞時(shí)代的裙裝。20世紀(jì)初，德國(guó)殖民者就穿著這種衣服——當(dāng)時(shí)，赫雷羅族人為反抗殖民者而浴血奮戰(zhàn)。如今，這種服飾作為赫雷羅身份令人自豪的遺產(chǎn)留存下來(lái)。其造型特色鮮明：一襲及地長(zhǎng)裙，上衣貼合身線，袖子蓬松，再配上一頂華麗的牛角形帽子，造型便更加完美。

Sámi clothing, Lapland

9The northernmost reaches of Norway, Sweden and Finland, and the Kola peninsula of northwest Russia, are home to the Sámi, who are among the oldest peoples in Europe.

10There are variations in costume throughout the region, though the main item is the kolt (or gákti in northern Sámi), a tunic or dress.The simple bright colours of blue, red, yellow and green always feature and reindeer skin and fur is used for belts, boots and gloves.

拉普蘭地區(qū)薩米族服裝

9薩米族是歐洲最古老的民族之一，挪威、瑞典和芬蘭的最北端和俄羅斯西北部的科拉半島是薩米人的家園。

10整個(gè)地區(qū)的服裝各有差異，但主要服裝是kolt（北薩米語(yǔ)稱之為gákti），這是一種長(zhǎng)罩衣或連衣裙式的服裝。這種服裝以藍(lán)、紅、黃、綠這些簡(jiǎn)單明快的顏色為主。腰帶、靴子和手套則由馴鹿的皮毛制作而成。

Gho, Bhutan

11In Bhutan, a tiny Himalayan kingdom tucked between China and India,it’s obligatory for everyone to wear the national dress.For men this means the gho, a knee-length gown tied at the waist by a belt called a keram.

12For formal occasions a silk scarf, a kabney, is added to the ensemble, the colour of which depends on the wearer’s status.For the women, traditional dress is typically an ankle-length dress called a kira, and the equivalent scarf is called a rachu.

不丹果袍

11在喜馬拉雅山腳、中國(guó)和印度兩國(guó)之間坐落著一個(gè)迷你王國(guó)——不丹，這里人人都必須穿著民族服裝。男性身著及膝果袍，用一種叫作keram的帶子束于腰間。

12在正式場(chǎng)合，男子還會(huì)加披一件絲質(zhì)披肩，當(dāng)?shù)厝朔Q之為kabney，其顏色取決于佩戴者的身份。女性的傳統(tǒng)服裝通常是一條長(zhǎng)及腳踝的裙子，稱為kira，女性的披肩則稱為rachu。

Conical hats, Vietnam

13Vietnam is home to an extraordinary wealth of clothing traditions, with the most elaborate outfits found in the north, such as red brocades of the Flower Hmong people and the decorated headdresses of the Red Dao.

越南斗笠

13越南的服飾傳統(tǒng)極其豐富，最為精致的服飾來(lái)自北方，如花苗族人的紅色織錦和紅頭瑤族人的頭飾。

14However, the most recognisably Vietnamese item is the conical hat, or non la, an essential accessory throughout the country.The version available in Hué10越南中部城市。, non bai tho, has lines of poetry written into the brim, only visible when you hold it up to the light.

14然而，越南最知名的飾品要數(shù)斗笠了，這是越南各地必不可少的配飾。古都順化的詩(shī)篇斗笠流傳至今，舉起斗笠對(duì)著陽(yáng)光一照，帽檐里的詩(shī)句便顯現(xiàn)出來(lái)。

Flamenco dresses, Andalucía, Spain

15Traje de flamenco or traje de gitana are the flamboyant dresses that finish in a cascade of ruffles (volantes), which are synonymous with the flamenco dancers of southern Spain.

16Seville’s Feria de Abril11塞維利亞一年一度的歡慶活動(dòng)，又稱“塞維利亞四月節(jié)”。is the best time to see them worn by local women.However, the ultimate flamenco dress is the bata de cola, the long-tailed version worn for the style of dance of the same name, an intricate and beautiful dance where the dancer controls the tail so that it swishes and flicks as if it has a life of its own.

西班牙安達(dá)盧西亞地區(qū)的弗拉門戈舞裙

15華麗的弗拉門戈舞裙（又稱吉卜賽舞裙）的裙尾有著層疊的荷葉邊，這種舞裙是西班牙南部弗拉門戈舞者的代名詞。

16塞維利亞的四月春會(huì)是欣賞當(dāng)?shù)嘏源┲ダT戈舞裙的最佳時(shí)機(jī)。然而，弗拉門戈舞裙的終極版本是跳長(zhǎng)尾舞時(shí)穿的長(zhǎng)尾舞裙。復(fù)雜而優(yōu)美的舞蹈中，舞者控制著裙尾，使它輕快地嗖嗖甩動(dòng)，仿佛有了自己的生命。

The ten-gallon Stetson12約翰·B.斯特森（John B.Stetson）在1865年美國(guó)內(nèi)戰(zhàn)期間設(shè)計(jì)了第一頂牛仔帽。因其標(biāo)志性設(shè)計(jì)，Stetson Hat也泛指西部牛仔帽。此處ten-gallon Stetson 并非字面意義上的“能裝十加侖（45.5升）水的帽子”?！笆觼觥边@一夸張的說(shuō)法，主要來(lái)源有二：一說(shuō)源自斯特森牛仔帽的廣告海報(bào)，上面繪著一位牛仔，正用本款牛仔帽給馬兒喂水（實(shí)際上該帽盛水量大約只有3夸脫，即3.42升）；一說(shuō)是由于戴上這款牛仔帽后，人頓時(shí)變得tan galán（西班牙語(yǔ)，意為very gallant英姿颯爽），與tengallon頗為近似，得克薩斯州因與墨西哥（說(shuō)西班牙語(yǔ)）毗鄰，故而以訛傳訛。, Texas, USA

美國(guó)得克薩斯州的斯特森牛仔帽

1 7咿哈！大大的斯特森牛仔帽、靴子……萊茵石牛仔？多虧了鄉(xiāng)村音樂和西部音樂的明星們，南方牛仔們的工裝也變得考究起來(lái)，但牛仔帽仍然是真正的美國(guó)標(biāo)志。約翰·B.斯特森的事業(yè)從費(fèi)城起步，1 8 6 5年，他在那里創(chuàng)辦了自己的制帽公司，時(shí)至今日仍是牛仔世界的象征。在得克薩斯州，牛仔帽是唯一能看到的帽子款式。

17Yee ha! Enormous Stetson, boots…rhinestones131975年，美國(guó)鄉(xiāng)村歌手格倫·坎貝爾（Glen Campbell）發(fā)行的單曲“萊茵石牛仔”（Rhinestone Cowboy）成為熱門歌曲，坎貝爾也因此被稱為“萊茵石牛仔”。? The southern cowboy’s work wear has been glammed up14glam sb/sth up讓……漂亮起來(lái)。a bit,thanks to the stars of both kinds of music15both kinds of music 指與牛仔風(fēng)格緊密相連的鄉(xiāng)村音樂（Country Music）和西部音樂（Western Music）。二者原是兩種不同類型的音樂，分別流行于美國(guó)東南部和西南部地區(qū)。20世紀(jì)三四十年代時(shí)，受好萊塢西部片的影響，從20年代就出現(xiàn)的牛仔歌曲（Singing Cowboys，也稱西部歌曲）突然流行，經(jīng)常和鄉(xiāng)村歌曲在同一電臺(tái)播出，并稱為country & western music，后來(lái)西部音樂也漸漸融入鄉(xiāng)村音樂的體系中，成為鄉(xiāng)村音樂的一個(gè)流派。, but the hat remains a true American icon.John B.Stetson was in fact from Philadelphia16斯特森實(shí)際出生于新澤西州的奧蘭治，并非賓夕法尼亞州的費(fèi)城，故此處宜理解為他的事業(yè)從費(fèi)城起步。, and he started his company there in 1865, but it’s always been a symbol of cowboy country, and in Texas the ten-gallon Stetson is the only style to be seen in.

Sardinian traditional dress, Italy

18Closer to North Africa than mainland Italy, Sardinia’s mixed history is evident in its traditional dress, elements of which have strong Spanish and Moorish influences.Though each village has its own style, there are common features: a veil, bonnet or shawl,long pleated skirts and richly embroidered blouses.Some of the most spectacular are from the province of Nuoro.

意大利撒丁島傳統(tǒng)服飾

18從距離上看，撒丁島離意大利本土較遠(yuǎn)，而離北非更近，其復(fù)雜的歷史在傳統(tǒng)服飾上得以體現(xiàn)，服飾元素受到了西班牙人和摩爾人的強(qiáng)烈影響。雖然每個(gè)村莊的服飾都各具風(fēng)格，但有一些共同的特點(diǎn)，如面紗、女帽、披肩、百褶長(zhǎng)裙和華麗的繡花上衣。其中一些最令人驚嘆的服飾來(lái)自努奧羅省。

The keffiyeh, shemagh or ghutrah, the Middle East

19The scarf headdress worn by men across the Middle East comes in many variations of colour, style and name.It’s known as shemagh in Jordan and the ghutrah Saudi Arabia, where it is normally either white or red and white, and held in place by the agal, a black band.

中東阿拉伯頭巾

19中東各地男子佩戴的頭巾顏色不一、款式多樣、名稱各異。這種頭巾在約旦被稱為shemagh，在沙特阿拉伯被稱為ghutrah，顏色通常為白色或紅白相間，用黑繩頭箍加以固定。

Coiffe, Brittany, France

20A coiffe is an intricate lace headdress worn as part of the folk costumes of Brittany, France, though now only seen for local festivals, or pardons.The most striking is the bigouden coiffe,from the area around Pont L’Abbé, a starched lace cylinder that rises to up to an astonishing height of 30-40cm.

法國(guó)布列塔尼大區(qū)的女式頭巾

20這款頭巾是一種復(fù)雜的蕾絲頭飾，為法國(guó)布列塔尼民間服裝的組成部分，但現(xiàn)在只有在當(dāng)?shù)氐墓?jié)日或特赦日才能看到。最引人注目的是來(lái)自蓬拉貝小鎮(zhèn)的比古丹頭巾：蕾絲上過(guò)漿后，可制成30至40厘米高的圓柱，令人嘖嘖稱奇。

Menswear, Todos Santos Cuchumatán,Guatemala

21Maya textiles are evident throughout the Guatemalan Highlands, nowhere more so than Todos Santos Cuchumatán, where local traditions are still widely observed.Mam is the first language,not Spanish, and the clothing for men in particular is brilliantly distinctive redand-white striped trousers, black woollen breeches, embroidered shirts and straw hats.■

危地馬拉托多斯桑托斯庫(kù)丘馬坦小城的男裝

21瑪雅紡織品在整個(gè)危地馬拉高地都隨處可見，最有代表性的莫過(guò)于托多斯桑托斯庫(kù)丘馬坦小城，在那里，地方傳統(tǒng)仍然得到廣泛遵守。當(dāng)?shù)氐哪刚Z(yǔ)為馬姆語(yǔ)，而非西班牙語(yǔ)，男性的服裝是非常獨(dú)特的紅白條紋長(zhǎng)褲、黑色羊毛馬褲、刺繡襯衫和草帽。 □