宋韻流芳曙色新

趙淑萍

宋代，尤其是南宋，寧波從海疆辟地成為京畿藩籬，海曙作為寧波子城、羅城的所在地，歷史文化遺存俯拾皆是。巍巍鼓樓、燦然月湖、繁盛江廈街、典雅天妃宮……更有各種碑、塔、寺、橋、壩星羅棋布。海曙，流淌著濃濃的宋韻，書香氤氳，風(fēng)致綽約。

城紀(jì)千年? ?人文其昌

歷史上的鼓樓，既是內(nèi)城子城的南城門，又是外城羅城的中心。它曾經(jīng)被稱為譙樓、望海軍門（樓）、奉國軍門（樓）。

宋慶歷八年（1048年），太守王周重修奉國軍樓，新上任的鄞縣縣令王安石，特為奉國軍樓的刻漏作了一篇《新刻漏銘》。刻漏是中國古代漢族科學(xué)家發(fā)明的計(jì)時(shí)器。年輕的王安石在鄞縣浚治東錢湖，踏勘廣德湖，率領(lǐng)民眾筑海塘，置碶閘，推行“青苗法”等一系列改革措施。他后來的變法，很多就是依據(jù)了“鄞縣經(jīng)驗(yàn)”。他在銘文中寫道：“其政謂何，弗棘弗遲?！边@位杰出的政治家、改革家、文學(xué)家在鼓樓上意氣風(fēng)發(fā)，他是以刻漏那樣“弗棘弗遲”的速度和精神自勉，要求自己勤政、嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)、恭虔。

在寧波市第一醫(yī)院靠縣學(xué)街一側(cè)，有一個(gè)古色古香的老門樓，它就是鄞縣孔廟僅存于世的“欞星門”。王安石來鄞縣時(shí)，鄞縣沒有縣學(xué)，而鄰縣慈溪早就創(chuàng)立。他把縣治附近的一所唐代建造的孔廟作為學(xué)校，建起了鄞縣的第一所官學(xué)。他多次寫信聘請(qǐng)“慶歷五先生”等人任教，創(chuàng)立縣學(xué)后，鄞縣的學(xué)風(fēng)明顯好轉(zhuǎn)。此前，鄞縣進(jìn)士數(shù)量不到20人，而在王安石辦學(xué)后人數(shù)大增，尤其是南宋，達(dá)到601人。王安石治鄞千日，影響卻是千年。

宋高宗時(shí)，鼓樓又改稱為“奉國軍樓神祠”。宋高宗趙構(gòu)還是小康王時(shí)，南渡到明州，留下了一路的故事。傳說他被金兵追逐，逃到了鼓樓。云中出現(xiàn)唐時(shí)平“安史之亂”的五位將軍張巡、許遠(yuǎn)、南霽云、姚訚、雷萬春，他們揮舞大旗來救小康王。金兵追至樓下，只見蛛網(wǎng)密布，一片荒涼，以為無人進(jìn)入，遂往他途。由此脫逃的趙構(gòu)登基后下詔追封鼓樓為“奉國軍樓神祠”，并在祠中塑了五位將軍的像。在海曙，高橋黃泥墻村還流傳有村姑救康王的故事。

滄海桑田，風(fēng)起云涌，官府和民間歷次修繕明州城。兩宋時(shí)期，修繕的人中就有大名鼎鼎的唐宋八大家之一的曾鞏，還有狀元丞相吳潛。

一湖居中? ?書香攬勝

“三江六塘河，一湖居城中”。這湖，就是月湖。

月湖，被譽(yù)為景觀之湖、水利之湖、書香文化之湖。月湖開鑿于唐代，到了宋代，已經(jīng)成為寧波城中生產(chǎn)與生活的命脈。當(dāng)時(shí)，湖上龍舟簫鼓，湖邊車水馬龍，達(dá)官貴人、販夫走卒往來不絕。宋嘉祐年間，錢公輔任明州郡守，對(duì)月湖作了大規(guī)模整修，用泥沙堆積成偃月堤，并取孟子“獨(dú)樂不若眾樂”之意，在月湖建造了眾樂亭，周圍遍植花木。亭子落成，錢公輔欣然提筆，寫下迄今可見的第一篇吟誦月湖之詩：“誰把江湖付此翁？江湖更在廣城中。葺成世界三千景，占得鵬天九萬風(fēng)。宴豆四時(shí)喧畫鼓，游人兩岸跨長虹。它年若數(shù)東南勝，須作蓬丘第一宮?！鄙踔?，他在離開寧波后，還邀請(qǐng)?jiān)S多文人官員為眾樂亭和詩，王安石、司馬光、曾鞏等紛紛唱和，開創(chuàng)了月湖吟詠的一代文風(fēng)。數(shù)年后，郡守劉珵再一次浚治，湖上之景為之一新。劉珵以景物特色一一為之取名：花嶼，芳草洲，柳汀，竹嶼，煙嶼，芙蓉洲，菊花洲，月島，雪汀，松島。十景既成，劉珵詩興大發(fā)，唱《詠西湖十洲》，舒亶、陳瓘等欣然唱和。于是，月湖又一次迎來賦詠盛事。

到了南宋，“城中月湖半歸史”。史氏，本是寒門庶族，通過科舉，最后成為鐘鳴鼎食的簪纓世家，書寫了“一門三宰相，四世兩封王”“五尚書，七十二進(jìn)士”的傳奇。史家的發(fā)跡對(duì)南宋的政治格局和寧波的地方文化都產(chǎn)生了莫大的影響。史氏家族第一位丞相史浩告老還鄉(xiāng)時(shí)，建府第于月湖菊花洲，后稱越王府。又在菊花洲建宸奎閣，藏兩朝皇帝題字、詔書。在月島建花果園廟。朝廷又將月湖竹洲賞賜給他，筑“真隱館”。館內(nèi)壘石為山，引泉為池，模仿四明山峰的景致。孝宗親筆御書“四明洞天”相贈(zèng)。史浩極重儒學(xué)，他割竹洲之宅，請(qǐng)沈煥、沈炳、呂祖儉設(shè)堂講學(xué)，后人稱“竹洲三先生”。又請(qǐng)陸學(xué)重要人物楊簡到家中講授，其子史彌遠(yuǎn)受其教。在史氏倡導(dǎo)下，著名的“淳熙四先生”在月湖各開講院，月湖成了陸學(xué)的中心。史浩長孫史守之，官至朝奉大夫。由于不滿叔叔史彌遠(yuǎn)專權(quán)朝政，辭官回里，數(shù)詔不赴。先住在祖父構(gòu)筑的竹洲上讀書賦詩，后在芳草洲上建藏書閣，與月湖之南的樓鑰藏書樓并稱“南樓北史”。宋寧宗聞史守之事跡，賜御書“碧沚”。

兩宋之時(shí)，月湖兩岸人文薈萃，顯宦名流宅第星布，書院、藏書樓次第矗起，詩社雅集，弦歌不絕?！袄餅楣谏w，門成鄒魯”，明州之學(xué)術(shù)、文學(xué)皆薈萃于月湖。

海絲圣地? ?千帆競(jìng)發(fā)

寧波三江口的甬江東岸，矗立著一座精美的建筑——天后宮，又稱慶安會(huì)館。它是全國重點(diǎn)文保單位，又作為中國大運(yùn)河（寧波段）的重要遺產(chǎn)而成為世界文化遺產(chǎn)點(diǎn)。

北宋淳化三年（992年），明州城繼唐代之后又設(shè)市舶司，這是專門管理外貿(mào)兼外事的機(jī)構(gòu)。明州與泉州、廣州成為全國三大外貿(mào)口岸。今天寧波三江口江廈公園的水岸，宋代時(shí)是國內(nèi)外貿(mào)易的碼頭區(qū)。江上帆檣如林，岸上貨物擁擠。為了方便外貿(mào)，就在羅城開了一座市舶司專用的城門，直通城內(nèi)的市舶司衙署，百姓稱為“市舶門”。門外建來遠(yuǎn)亭，為市舶司稽查人員的現(xiàn)場(chǎng)辦公點(diǎn)。從唐中晚期到北宋，波斯、阿拉伯商人、高麗來使、留學(xué)生云集明州，其中不少人長期居住城中。

北宋宣和五年（1123年），給事中路允迪一行乘明州打造的兩艘“神舟”和六艘“客舟”，從明州港出發(fā)奉使高麗，歸國時(shí)突遇狂風(fēng)巨浪。危急中眾人仰天向媽祖求禱，五晝夜后終于平安抵達(dá)明州。事聞?dòng)诔位兆谙略t封媽祖為“順濟(jì)夫人”，賜廟額為“順濟(jì)”。這是媽祖第一次受到皇帝冊(cè)封。

南宋紹熙年間，福建莆田船主沈法詢?cè)趯幉ń?jīng)商，一次在南海遇險(xiǎn)，因祈求媽祖而化險(xiǎn)為夷?；氐綄幉ê?，他捐出自己位于東渡路的住宅，建造了一座媽祖廟。廟中的媽祖神像，是從莆田湄洲祖廟分爐而來。這是寧波第一座媽祖廟，也是浙東地區(qū)第一座媽祖廟，后稱“天妃宮”“天后宮”。寧波又成為最早接納和傳承媽祖信仰的重要地區(qū)之一。

南宋，明州一度成為江浙對(duì)高麗、日本等國官方往來以及通商貿(mào)易的唯一合法港口。

宋韻文化是浙江打造文化高地的金名片。而海曙的宋韻文化因其獨(dú)特的地理人文而極有辨識(shí)度。在唱好杭州、寧波歷史文化雙城記中，愿千年海曙再譜新章。

In the Song dynasty （960-1279）， especially the Southern Song dynasty （1127-1279）， Ningbo turned from a frontier city bordering the sea into a city sitting right next to the capital city Lin’an （present-day Hangzhou）. In Haishu district， one of the central districts in Ningbo， unsurprisingly， historical and cultural relics can be found everywhere. The towering Drum Tower， the tranquil Moon Lake， the prosperous Jiangxia Street， the elegant Tianfei （Heavenly Mother） Palace， not to mention the numerous steles， pagodas， temples， bridges and dams. The district is filled with the Song dynasty culture.

Historically， Ningbo’s Drum Tower not only served as the south gate of its inner city， but also as the center of its outer city. It was alternatively called the Qiao Tower， the Wanghaijun Gate （Tower）， the Fengguojun Gate （Tower）.

In 1048， when the prefect of Mingzhou （present-day Ningbo） rebuilt the Fengguojun Tower， Wang Anshi （1021-1086）， who was just sworn in as the magistrate of Yin county （present-day Yinzhou district in Ningbo city）， dedicated a piece specially for the tower’s ke lou， a traditional Chinese water clock.

In the “Epigraph on the New Ke Lou”， he wrote， “dealing with government affairs should be like the ke lou， neither too fast nor too slow.” During his tenure in Yin county， Wang led the local people in dredging the Dongqian Lake and building seawalls， and introduced a raft of reform measures， foreshadowing the New Policies that he would push through throughout the entire Song territory later.

During the reign of Emperor Gaozong of Song （r. 1129-1162）， the Drum Tower was also called “Shrine of Fengguojun Tower". Legend has it that when Gaozong was still a prince， he was chased by the Jurchen troops when in Mingzhou. When he hid himself into the Drum Tower， five generals who had quelled the An Lushan Rebellion （755-763） appeared in the clouds and made the tower look as if no one had been there for years. After Gaozong’s narrow escape， he made the tower a shrine for the five generals.

In Ningbo First Hospital， on the side of the Xianxue （literally “county academy”） Street， there is an old， ancient gate， the Lingxing Gate， the only remaining structure of the Confucius Temple in Yin county. When Wang Anshi came to Yin county， there had been not a county academy established， whereas the neighboring Cixi county had long set up one. He turned the Confucius Temple built in the Tang dynasty （618-907） near the county government into an academy， the first official one in the county. The number of people in Yin county who obtained the jinshi title， the highest degree in China’s imperial examinations， increased significantly afterwards， from a total of no more than 20 to 601 during the Southern Song period.

Another place that was at the center of life in the area was the Moon Lake. Built in the Tang dynasty， the lake became the lifeline of the city of Ningbo in the Song dynasty. At that time， dragon boats sailed on the lake with flutes， drums and music playing， the lakeside was packed with carriages and pedestrians， officials， prominent figures， merchants and the like mixing with each other. In the Southern Song， “half of the Moon Lake belongs to the Shi family”. A humble family originally， the Shis made their mark through excelling the imperial examinations. In all， the family produced “three chancellors， two dukes， five ministers and 72 jinshi”， great influencing the political structure of the Southern Song and Ningbo’s local culture.

At the time， the area surrounding the lake was teemed with mansions belonging to officials and celebrities; many academies and libraries sat next to each other; and poetry societies， literary gatherings and music appreciation meetings were commonplace. It was no exaggeration to say that the best of Mingzhou’s academic and literary minds was concentrated around the Moon Lake.

Then there is also the beautiful Tianfei Palace on the east bank of the Yongjiang River， dedicated to Mazu， the Chinese sea goddess. It is now a world heritage item along the Grand Canal （Ningbo section）. In 992， a Maritime Trade Bureau was established in Mingzhou to handle foreign trade and foreign affairs. In fact， the waterfront of Jiangxia Park that we see today used to be the dock area in the Song dynasty for domestic and foreign trade. In the Southern Song dynasty， Mingzhou was at one time the only legal port of official exchanges and trade between the areas of Jiangsu and Zhejiang and Korea， Japan and other countries.