來云邊，邂逅飛鳥與書

林蔚然

有的時候，身體在各處奔走，而靈魂卻停滯不前。經(jīng)歷過白天疲憊不堪的旅程，為何不走慢一點，等一等靈魂？“休息與工作的關系，正如眼瞼與眼睛的關系”，找個地方小憩一下吧，在那暮色降臨的寂靜山林。釋放過后，才能繼續(xù)上路。

云邊眠飛鳥

在浙江麗水，有這么一個村落，說是浙江最美古村落也不為過：它就是位于麗水松陽縣的陳家鋪村，距今有600多年的歷史，是崖居式古村落的典型代表之一，有“小布達拉宮”的美稱。整個村子背靠平均海拔800多米以上的高山巖石及懸崖，因地勢高還面朝峽谷，一年有200多天都籠罩在山云水霧之中。山多地少，北高南低，形成了房屋依山順勢而建的“崖居”奇觀：上百幢由泥土、青磚、石頭搭起的房屋，從山腰一直延伸到山腳，渾然天成，錯落有致，是層次感與藝術(shù)感的完美結(jié)合。屋頂是新舊迭代的瓦片，泛黃的老石屋夯土墻，老舊木門開開關關揚起的塵埃……時間仿佛在幾十年前就不曾流動。

正如每一只飛鳥都能找到屬于它的山，每一個故事也都能找到契合它的村子。2018年10月，飛蔦集松陽一期在這里誕生。十二個月，見證了一個從無到有的奇跡。密林之中，懸挑出一座四面通透的玻璃房。內(nèi)含四間客房，每間都擁有近70平方米的活動空間，溫馨舒適，配置齊全。每個房間均不相同，相同的只是追隨的處世哲學——人可以坐下的地方，處處有絕佳的風景。

在建筑設計上，保留古村落傳統(tǒng)的夯土墻風貌的同時融入現(xiàn)代的元素。墻面材質(zhì)是毛石夯土里摻雜水泥，既不脫鄉(xiāng)野的純真質(zhì)樸，又符合現(xiàn)代流行的極簡風格。一張臥床直面風景，抬眼就是一座山的睡顏。在這里無需鬧鐘，自然的鬧鐘就是云海中傳來的一聲聲鳥啼，是一縷縷曙光從大地反響過去的回聲。坐在茶室里，環(huán)顧皆是通透的落地窗，囊括了無邊的山與云，風與月。在云霧氤氳中淺斟一壺邀青山共飲，見青山多嫵媚。人與自然的完美融合，溫潤舒適的空間，山野的美好恬靜，古樸的古村氛圍，都讓僅有4間客房的飛蔦集常常陷入一房難求的狀態(tài)。

白天，自有管家拎著食盒送至各個房間。紫薯、米糕、紅豆粥……小巧精致的碗碟里盛著品類豐富的早餐，一切都在服務儀式感;夜晚，山野夾縫里的燈火靜默地等待著歸人，在自然的白噪音覆蓋下人聲隱約，是老村的呼吸與脈搏。在這里，可以一天什么也不去想，只是坐在茶室里喝茶看書看風景，看著世界從窗邊路過，與你像一個過路人似地點頭致意。當然，走出門逛逛古村落也是一個不錯的選擇。只需要走5分鐘，就能看到陳家鋪村的“懸崖書店”——陳家鋪平民書局。

山里讀先鋒

陳家鋪平民書局，是先鋒書店的第14家分店。前身是陳家鋪村的村文化禮堂，占據(jù)了整個陳家鋪村的核心位置，與山川大地怡然相望。這棟特別的崖居式夯土建筑本來承擔著村子文化中心的功能，因此建筑面積比其他民居更大，空間更開闊，視野也更孤絕。雖然外表看上去和民居相差無幾，整體保留了原來復古的木質(zhì)結(jié)構(gòu)，但加強了其堅固程度，內(nèi)部也進行了許多現(xiàn)代化設計。書店分為上下兩層，入口處是一個寬闊的走廊，一側(cè)是排列整齊的書架，陳列著3萬多本書籍，據(jù)說這是當年村長的父親從外面一本一本地背回來的;另一側(cè)則是一個大型的玻璃窗，增加采光的同時也在視覺上拓展了書店的寬度。盡頭是一個大型階梯狀的閱讀區(qū)域，臺階上擺放著藤編坐墊供讀者小坐，旁邊正對峽谷開了幾扇窗。讀書的間隙，可以與山林悄然對話，間或掠過一兩聲鳥啼蟲鳴，便是應答。沿著階梯拾級而上，盡頭是一個突出建筑體外的露臺，抬頭便是近在咫尺的山巒云海，仿佛觸手可及。屋頂中央還內(nèi)嵌一個半透明盒體空間——“冥想室”，高級的幾何科幻風，平添一種縹緲的虛無感。里面沒有燈，只有從玻璃天窗灑下的柔和自然光線。極致的封閉與開放，在這里形成一種微妙的平衡。

玻璃、陽光板這些現(xiàn)代化透明建筑材料，讓路于傳統(tǒng)材料作為背景而存在，更凸顯出傳統(tǒng)古老材料的物質(zhì)性和手工藝質(zhì)感。空間頂面排列整齊的原木終止于冥想室的玻璃板，消失的屋頂留下了更多想象空間，柔和而深邃。樸實低調(diào)的暗色磚地隨處擺放著木制品和藤編，坐在用麻繩吊起的露臺上，攤開一本卷了毛邊的書，一種懷舊的文化氛圍自然而然地產(chǎn)生了。集圖書館、書店、咖啡館、城鄉(xiāng)文化交流中心等多種功能于一身的平民書局，一經(jīng)建成后迅速在網(wǎng)絡上走紅。除了“改變了人、自然與建筑之間的關系”之外，還有“先鋒書店”這塊金字招牌的原因。

很多人對先鋒書店的認知，來自南京的先鋒書店五臺山總店。融合了宗教情結(jié)、人文關懷的內(nèi)部造型被一眾文藝青年所推崇，被譽為“南京的文化名片”。從2014年開始，先鋒書店就另辟蹊徑，嘗試將書店融入廣大鄉(xiāng)村。松陽，就是其中一站。“西歸道路塞，南去交流疏。唯此桃花源，四塞無他虞?！边@是北宋狀元沈晦來到松陽后的詩興大發(fā)。而陳家鋪村里的黃墻灰頂鱗次櫛比，梯田云水交相輝映，更是與先鋒書店的理念一拍即合。這座在松陽深處安了家的書店，接過了為陳家鋪村普及文化的重任，并以此為中心向外延伸至周圍更久遠的老村子，承擔起保護傳統(tǒng)村落文脈的責任。

蔦與書

主理人蕾拉小姐與飛蔦集的緣分，從一場環(huán)游世界的旅行開始。走得越遠，就越想歸去。當蕾拉小姐來到松陽，她幾乎是一瞬間就認定了這里：這是一個能想到家的地方?！墩f文解字》中注：“蔦，寄生也?！笔\是一種攀緣周圍樹木的灌木，于是，就有了飛蔦集的靈感。

2017年的秋天，陳家鋪村每家每戶都在門前曬著番薯干，金黃色的味道浮泛在空氣中，像是在等待著什么人的歸來。也正是在這個時候，飛蔦集項目正式啟動，在這個古老的村莊開始了一段充滿溫情的故事。

“松陽這個地方，讓人迷戀，因為是秘境;讓人哭笑不得，也因為是秘境”，蕾拉小姐略帶幽默地調(diào)侃道。理想是豐滿的，但實現(xiàn)起來免不了出現(xiàn)各種各樣的問題：首先是前期清理工作，縱橫狹小的阡陌以絕對阻攔的姿態(tài)擋在大型機器的面前;其次，打地基時因雙方習慣不同，導致測量數(shù)據(jù)有誤差，遲遲無法推進施工;再次，鄉(xiāng)村的土地之間沒有明顯界限，租賃一小塊土地甚至要找數(shù)戶人家共同商量。這讓蕾拉小姐意識到：歷史太久遠，有時候也是一塊心病。

大型機器進不來怎么辦？只好人工清理，也是為了不打擾小村的這份安寧;設計師和負責人無論什么天氣都到現(xiàn)場監(jiān)督施工，實時測量、定點與修改，什么問題都力求當天解決;對于眾口難調(diào)的情況，負責方只能慢慢“磨”村民和村干部，結(jié)局倒也是皆大歡喜;部分林木與建筑設計有沖突，但在負責方的堅持下，還是選擇保留這些“原住民”而花費更多時間重新調(diào)整布局。這些前清留下來的建筑先一步扎根于此，作為一種逐漸逝去的文化與見證，后來者所能做的應該是保護與尊重，而不是為了一時之利去破壞。

負責改造平民書局的先鋒書店招商運營部經(jīng)理張瑞峰，對此深有感悟?！袄辖ㄖ泻艽笪恼驴勺?，對其在保護基礎上進行改造實踐，與文化類尤其是實體書店項目十分契合”，他的介紹透露了平民書局的建筑原則，是在保護陳家鋪文化禮堂舊址的基礎上再加工。

為游客帶來獨特消費體驗的同時，平民書局也是供村里原住民休憩學習的基礎設施。作為一個新型公共空間，民俗文化的藏書主題，結(jié)合以地方傳統(tǒng)手工藝制品為主的文創(chuàng)，定期舉辦的文化交流活動、邀請作家駐店創(chuàng)作所形成的場所吸引力，不僅存在于原住民和游客之間，而且在更大維度上構(gòu)建起城鄉(xiāng)溝通的橋梁。一手設計了書局的建筑師張雷希望這座懸崖圖書館能打破許多人對鄉(xiāng)村的先入為主的刻板印象，以平民書局為窗口，讓人們看到不一樣的村莊，不一樣的世界。鄉(xiāng)村照樣可以看書閱讀，也可以“文藝”。

“在我的一生里，也有貧乏的和沉默的地域。它們是我忙碌的日子里得到日光與空氣的幾片空曠之地，”泰戈爾在《飛鳥集》里如是感嘆。奇妙山野或許不像想象中那樣貧乏，如這一間山林中的雅舍，如這一方懸崖邊的書店，還有很多小眾地域，等待著過客的一次邂逅。它們不是批量化的“千村一面”，每一步，都有你不曾見過的好風景。

Mountain Village with Stray Birds and Books

By Lin Weiran

When you are bustling around， sometimes you may feel that you are only moving along with your body， not your soul. Why not slow your pace for your soul to catch up， and take a pause from your busy working life？ Go to the woods of serenity， for instance， close your eyes for a short nap there. That way you could have a good release and carry on refreshingly.

In Songyang county of Zhejiang’s Lishui city， there is such a village by the name of Chenjiapu that one may arguably say is the most beautiful in the province. With a history of 600 odd years， it is a classic ancient village celebrated as “the small Potala Palace”. Because the whole village was built along high steeps of over 800 meters high facing the canyon， it is enveloped in humid clouds and fogs most of the year. Its mountainous southward-sloping terrain has contributed to the magnificent residential layout： hundreds of houses made from soil， bricks and rocks range all the way from the hillside to its foot， forming natural layers of artistic perfection.

Just as every bird could find the mountain it belongs to， every story could find the village it fits right in. In October 2018， the Stray Birds Art Hotel was born here， a wondrous B&B project to be created from nothing within a single year. It is a fully transparent glass house， standing hanging in the density of trees. There are four guest rooms， 70 square meters each， cozy and thoughtfully equipped. Differently themed as they are， the four of them are revealing the same philosophy： wherever one could sit down and relax should be somewhere with a view.

In terms of architectural design， the building features traditional rammed earth walls combined with modern elements， rendering a rustic， trendy minimalism style. You could comfortably lie in the window-facing bed in the guest room and admire the mountains. No alarm bell is needed here， for the nature tenderly wakes you up with birdsongs and echoes from the ground. You could sit inside the tea house， surrounded by its French windows and the outside landscape， and slowly sip a pot of tea in the green mountains’ company.

With such unique experiences to offer， this four-room-only B&B is always fully booked. In the daytime， meals are delivered to each room by a butler using a hamper; at night， the glittering lights in the wildness wait silently for the guests to return. You could spend a whole day here in the tea house with nothing on your mind， just drinking tea， reading books and greeting the outer world that is passing by your window. Of course， taking a walk around the ancient village is also advisable. Five minutes， and you will find yourself at a “cliff bookstore”， the Chenjiapu Civilian Bookstore.

Chenjiapu Civilian Bookstore is the 14th branch of the Librairie Avant-Garde， built on the old site of the villagers’ cultural hall. Located at the village center， it embraces an extraordinary view and is larger and wider than ordinary residential dwellings — although they look pretty much the same. But when you step inside， you will find the original wooden structure has been largely preserved and strengthened， and some modernization work has been done to improve the interior design. The two-story bookstore has a wide corridor at its entrance， with orderly bookshelves at one side and a huge glass window at the other. Walking into the back， you will come across large reading spaces — broad staircases to be precise， with some cushions placed atop for readers to rest on and several side windows allowing curious interactions with nature. The staircases lead you to the protruding terrace at the end， where you can look up and almost touch the rolling hills and clouds. What’s more， there is also a fancy， futuristic “meditation room”： no lamps， only a semi-translucent box inserted in the middle of the roof to let in some soft natural light. It seems that here the modern building materials like glass and polycarbonate have stepped back to let their traditional counterparts shine， creating a cultural atmosphere of nostalgia.

Chenjiapu Civilian Bookstore is a versatile tourist attraction， but that alone does not explain its popularity. Many customers are here because of their loyalty to the brand Librairie Avant-Garde whose headquarters are in the city of Nanjing. The Songyang branch is part of its “bookstores going rural” project which was launched in 2014.

The story between Miss Leila and Stray Birds began with her world travel — when it took her to Songyang， she instantly decided to start a B&B here at this home-like place. In the autumn of 2017， the project officially kicked off. “Songyang has this mysterious magic that makes you crazy — in a good way and also in a bad way，” Layla joked.

Tons of problems popped out in her pursuit of creating an ideal guest house： at first there was this cleaning work， which was almost impracticable on the overcomplicated narrow footpaths; then， measurement errors kept occurring in the middle of the foundation laying; last but not least， given that no clear boundaries were there between the rural lands， the construction team had to ask the permission of several households for renting just a tiny piece of land ... To address all the issues， the team invested extra patience， effort and time while making a lot of compromises. Fortunately， it turned out all very well. All parties agreed that the construction work should base on the principle of preservation and respect， not benefit-driven damage.

Zhang Ruifeng， Librairie Avant-Garde’s operation manager in charge of the Chenjiapu Civilian Bookstore project， echoed that opinion. “We could achieve a lot of things with old buildings， such as renovating and creatively transforming the properly preserved ones， and they are a great fit for cultural projects like physical bookstores.” What customers can get from the Chenjiapu Civilian Bookstore is not only special shopping experience but chances to participate in various cultural activities and to interact with writers. According to Zhang Lei the designer， this bookstore is a piece of work set to break the stereotype of rural areas as uncivilized， which could be about literature and art as well.

As Tagore exclaimed in his Stray Birds that “there are tracts in my life that are bare and silent; they are the open spaces where my busy days had their light and air”， the mountainous wilderness has its own charisma， like the Chenjiapu Civilian Bookstore， waiting to be explored.