奧運制服，冬奧會場一道靚麗的風景線

希望我們的技術官員，工作人員和志愿者能夠穿上這些精心設計的衣服，帶著我們對他們深深愛意，各盡其職，精神飽滿地投入工作。希望2022年冬奧會的舉辦，可以使中國的冰雪事業(yè)日益壯大，真正帶動更多老百姓去投身到冰雪運動中去。

I hope that the technical officials， staff and volunteers who wear these well-designed uniforms， with our deep love for them， will do their duty and be full of spirit to work.

北京2022年冬奧會開幕倒計時百天之際，2022年北京冬奧會與冬殘奧會系列制服在京隆重發(fā)布。此次發(fā)布的冬奧制服裝備供奧運會工作人員、技術官員及志愿者穿著使用，包含服裝、鞋品、配件三類。制服在外觀上融合了中國傳統(tǒng)山水畫與冬奧會核心圖形，這些充滿了中國傳統(tǒng)文化的韻味和美感；在功能上滿足了奧運會工作人員在各種工作環(huán)境下的需求，集美觀、科技、綠色為一體，最終從600多套設計作品中脫穎而出。作為2008年北京奧運會及殘奧會系列制服的設計師，北京服裝學院教授賀陽攜其團隊再度攜手2022年冬奧，China Textile記者帶您一起來聽奧運服裝設計背后的故事。

China Textile：這屆奧運服裝的設計理念是什么？您是如何在服裝中體現的？

賀陽：奧運制服的設計十分不容易，既要在設計中傳達出中國傳統(tǒng)文化，運用年輕時尚的元素，還得在技術上滿足防風保暖這些功能性需求。簡言之，就是需要用最少的元素去表達最豐富的視覺感受。

為了向世界傳達出中國傳統(tǒng)文化的意蘊，本次的制服圖案巧妙地將冬奧會的雪山、賽地和長城及千里江山圖相結合，又融入中國水墨畫的神韻，虛實結合把中國傳統(tǒng)美學和冰雪運動服裝設計有機聯(lián)系在一起。

China Textile：您一共設計了幾套服裝？他們的亮點是什么？

賀陽：由于冬季運動的特殊性，我們一共設計了17件服裝、服飾用于滿足不同場地的需求。冬奧會制服分為工作人員服裝、技術官員服裝與志愿者服裝三種。其中，工作人員和技術官員的制服圖案相同，以不同的山水位置和顏色來區(qū)分；志愿者服裝則包含山水圖形和長城形態(tài)兩種元素。

三種制服都沿襲了中國水墨畫的意境，濃墨淡彩的圖案以及漸變的色彩同當前的國際流行趨勢十分吻合，體現了傳統(tǒng)文化與現代文化的結合，這對我們的服裝制作能力也是極大的考驗。比如，在印染時，要分出顏色層次，還要定位印花，工作人員們也付出了很多努力。這次制作，對我們的設計水平也實現了巨大的提高。

China Textile：您在設計制服時對顏色的選用有哪些考量？這些顏色都有什么用意？

賀陽：官方最初給出的制服顏色要求是紅藍綠，但是我在設計時感覺這些顏色不具有代表性。我國古代傳統(tǒng)的顏色為紅、黃、藍、黑、白這五個正色，我選取了紅、藍、白、灰這四個顏色，試著調了一下，感覺非常好，就報給奧組委了，結果獲得審批。所以面對限制我們還是需要做些突破的。

這些顏色的寓意有：長城灰彰顯技術官員的客觀公正；霞光紅展現了工作人員的實干和熱情；天霽藍展現志愿者的青春活力；瑞雪白則象征著瑞雪兆豐年。

China Textile：冬季奧運制服所需的功能性作用有很多，您在設計時是如何滿足的？您怎樣看待運動與高科技的結合？

賀陽：大家都知道冬季運動大部分涉及室外，保暖是個很重要的問題。但是在戶外穿得太多太厚重又會影響運動?；诖耍覀兙驮诿媪仙舷铝撕芏喙Ψ?，采用了一些高科技材料，這也是集體的智慧。比如，內衣面料我們采用了保暖又導濕的面料；滑雪服和羽絨服的外料正面需要防水，背面覆膜透氣，內里得具備聚熱功能。所以我們使用了絮片。絮片有瞬間蓄熱，長久保溫的功能，這樣就解決了這些功能上的需求。

China Textile：僅羽絨服就有十多種輔助功能設計，這為設計過程增加了不少難度，您是怎么克服的？

賀陽：羽絨服的輔助功能設計有防風護頜立領呼吸孔，肩部的立體防滑墊片，對講機，觸控筆，雪鏡清潔布，D型手套扣，腋下隱形拉鏈，后背收納口袋等，這些功能小細節(jié)除了一些基本的，其他都是邊實地測試邊加上的。比如我們在現場發(fā)現手套需要增加摩擦力，還要衣服上要有放手套的地方，我們的樣衣就是這樣一遍遍改出來的，并且在增加的過程中還要兼顧服裝的實用性和整體的美觀。

China Textile：您在這次設計中遇到的困難是什么？設計過程中最觸動您的事情是什么？

賀陽：完成技術官員和工作人員的制服圖案設計后，就是志愿者制服的圖案設計了。因為要和安踏的設計稿相結合，增添了很大難度。結合并不是簡單的圖形堆砌，當時眼看春節(jié)馬上到了，可稿子一遍遍的總是不滿意，于是去年過年我就組織大家微信視頻繼續(xù)改，該簡化的簡化，把以前的直線長城改成斜線，把一些實線改虛，畫出運動感、層次感，最后終于一次通過，也算是過了一個有意義的春節(jié)。

在整個設計過程中，我體會到我們整個團隊的力量是無限的，從初稿一遍一遍的改動，一次次的重來，沒有人有過怨言。包括我們的樣衣工，有時候甚至幫我們提一些建議，還有工廠的工人，都是加班加點。這個時候就體現出了大家的家國情懷，有機會能為國家出力是我們每一個中國人的驕傲，這是我們中華民族文化里根深蒂固的愛國主義情懷，這讓我一直很感動。

Uniforms for the Beijing 2022 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games have been unveiled on the occasion of the 100-day countdown to Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games in Beijing. The uniforms consist of clothing， shoes and accessories for staff， technical officials and volunteers. The uniform combines traditional Chinese landscape paintings with the core graphics of the Olympic Winter Games in appearance， and is full of the charm and beauty of traditional Chinese culture. The final look is selected out of a pool of six hundred design. It meets the needs of the staff to move in different scenarios and temperatures， and integrate aesthetics， technology and green. Professor He Yang， the designer of the uniforms for the 2008 Beijing Olympic and Paralympic Games， and her team will join hands again for the 2022 Winter Olympics. Let’s listen to her talk about the story behind the Olympic uniform design.

China Textile： What is the design concept of the Olympic uniforms？ How do you reflect that in the uniforms？

He Yang： Olympic uniforms should not only be designed to convey traditional Chinese culture with youthful and fashionable elements， but also technically meet functional needs such as wind protection and warmth. In short， it is necessary to use the fewest elements to express the most abundant visual experience.

In order to convey the meaning of traditional Chinese culture to the world， the uniforms pattern skillfully combines the snowcapped mountains and competition sites of the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games， the Great Wall and a Panorama of Rivers and Moun- tains， and also integrates the charm of Chinese ink painting. The combination of virtual and reality links the traditional Chinese aesthetics with the design of ice and snow sports clothing.

China Textile： How many uniforms have you designed？ What are the highlights of the design？

He Yang： Due to the particularity of winter sports， we designed a total of 17 pieces of clothing to meet the needs of different venues. There are three kinds of uniforms for staff， technical officials and volunteers. Among them， the uniforms of the staff and technical officers have the same pattern and are distinguished by different landscape positions and colors. The volunteers’uniform contains two elements： landscape and Great Wall.

The three uniforms all follow the artistic conception of Chinese ink painting. The pattern of thick ink and light color and gradual color are very consistent with the current international fashion trend， reflecting the combination of traditional culture and modern culture， which is also a great test for our garment making ability. For example， there is a lot of effort to separate the color layers and position the printing when dyeing and printing. The design level is also a huge improvement through this production.

China Textile： What are your considerations for color selection when designing uniforms？ What do the colors mean？

He Yang： The official color requirements were red， blue and green at first， but I thought these colors were not representative. The traditional colors of ancient China are red， yellow， blue， black and white. I took the four colors of red， blue， white and gray and tried to mix them， and it was very good. I submitted them to the Beijing Organising Committee for the 2022 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games， which was approved. So we still need to make some breakthroughs in the face of limitations.

Glowing red， Great Wall grey， sky blue and snow white are the main colors of the uniforms for Beijing 2022. The Great Wall grey represents the objectivity and fairness of technical officials； the glowing red uniform for the staff reflects their dedication and enthusiasm； the sky blue shows the youthful vigor of volunteers； the snow white symbolizes good luck as a Chinese saying goes， “A timely snow promises a good harvest.”

China Textile： How did you design to meet the functional requirements of the Winter Olympic uniform？ What do you think about the combination of sports and high technology？

He Yang： We all know that keeping warm is an important issue for winter sports. But wearing too much and too heavy outside can interfere with exercise. Based on this， we put a lot of effort into the fabric， using some high-tech materials， which is also the collective wisdom. For example， we use warm and moistureconducting fabric for underwear； the outer material of the ski jacket and down jacket should be waterproof on the front， breathable on the back and heat-trapping on the inside. Therefore， we used the floc that can instantly store heat and keep it warm for a long time， so as to meet these functional requirements.

China Textile： How do you overcome the difficulty in the design process， for example， down jacket alone has more than 10 functions design？

He Yang： The functions of down jacket include windproof， jaw protection， vertical collar， vent， threedimensional non-slip gasket on shoulder， it also comes with a holster for walkie talkie， stylus， snow mirror cleaning cloth， D-type glove buckle， invisible zipper under armpit， back pocket， etc. Besides some basic functions， other small details are added during field test. For example， we found on site that gloves need to increase friction， and there must be a place to put gloves on the clothes. Our sample clothes have been revised over and over again in this way， and the practicality and overall beauty of clothes should be taken into account in the process of revising.

China Textile： What are your difficulties in this design？ What struck you the most during the design process？

He Yang： After completing the uniform pattern design of technical officers and staff， the pattern design of volunteers’ uniform should be combined with Anta’s design draft， which added great difficulty. Combination is not a simple graphics stack， the Spring Festival was coming， we were not satisfied with it always， so last Chinese New Year we all continued to revise the draft design through WeChat video， we revised it for two days to simplify the pattern. We revised the straight line of the Great Wall into diagonal lines and some solid lines into dotted lines to create a sense of movement and layering. Finally， the design was approved once， and we had a meaningful Spring Festival.

In the design process， I realized that the power of our team is infinite， and no one has complained about revising the draft design again and again. The sample makers， sometimes gave us some suggestions， and the factory workers often worked overtime. It is the pride of every Chinese to have the opportunity to contribute to the country. It is the deep-rooted patriotism of the Chinese culture， which always touches me.

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