奧運服裝設(shè)計師劉莉：我唯一知道的就是，我什么都不知道

希望我們的奧運健兒穿著我們自主研發(fā)設(shè)計的服裝，帶著我們的滿滿祝福，馳騁賽場，勇于奪冠！

I hope our self-designed clothes give Chinese Olympic athletes the courage and wish all the athletes the best of luck in their competitions！

劉莉，體育總局備戰(zhàn)2022年北京冬奧會冰雪科學(xué)家，國家冬季運動服裝裝備研發(fā)中心主任，北京服裝學(xué)院教授，天津工業(yè)大學(xué)顧問教授、兼職博士生導(dǎo)師，香港理工大學(xué)訪問學(xué)者，康奈爾大學(xué)訪問學(xué)者……，這一串頭銜還不足以盡述其在服裝設(shè)計領(lǐng)域的地位。

北京冬奧會倒計時一個多月的時候，劉莉作為科研人員代表再次接受了習(xí)近平總書記的檢閱，習(xí)總書記勉勵備戰(zhàn)運動員，“人生能有幾回搏，拼搏是值得的，不經(jīng)一番寒徹骨，怎得梅花撲鼻香”。劉莉把總書記的叮嚀作為了對自己的勉勵。在距冬奧會倒計時22天的一個冬天的下午，CHINA TEXTILE記者終于見到了風(fēng)塵仆仆、剛出差回來的劉莉教授。

助力冬奧，快馬加鞭

2018年平昌冬奧會一結(jié)束，北京冬奧周期便正式來臨了?？萍疾繛榱硕瑠W會辦賽、參賽、觀賽等一系列工作特意設(shè)立了科技冬奧專項，并從2018年開始啟動。2019年由10個單位共同來承擔(dān)的“冬季運動與訓(xùn)練比賽高性能服裝研發(fā)關(guān)鍵技術(shù)”項目獲得批準(zhǔn)，這個項目主要為了服務(wù)國家隊運動員，是“科技冬奧”項目中唯一服裝專項。北京服裝學(xué)院作為牽頭單位，整個項目組包含6所高校院所和4個企業(yè)，贊助商安踏（中國）有限公司也是其中成員之一。

劉莉本碩畢業(yè)于天津工業(yè)大學(xué)，博士求學(xué)于東華大學(xué)，三段經(jīng)歷讓她成為了一個有工程師思維的服裝設(shè)計師，而這些正符合冬奧科創(chuàng)項目的要求。在接觸冬奧比賽服項目之前，劉莉一直從事功能服裝、高性能服裝研發(fā)工作，研究如何將“人體科學(xué)”與“時尚設(shè)計”結(jié)合起來。

劉莉介紹：“以前很多冰雪運動員的服裝都是從國外直接購買，成本很高，現(xiàn)在我們國家為了打破進(jìn)口依賴，加強了自主研發(fā)力度，這樣更適合中國運動員體型和技戰(zhàn)術(shù)特點。對我們來說，掌握自己的知識產(chǎn)權(quán)，做出適合中國運動員的比賽服。同時，建立國內(nèi)自主研發(fā)高性能運動服裝體系，也是北京服裝學(xué)院的一個追求目標(biāo)——在衣服上講好中國故事。”

實現(xiàn)四項關(guān)鍵技術(shù)創(chuàng)新

劉莉希望通過冬奧會的舉辦，助推我國運動服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)高質(zhì)量發(fā)展，書寫科技創(chuàng)新與運動服裝的“冰雪奇緣”。隨著北京冬奧會的腳步臨近，在比賽服裝方面，項目團隊已經(jīng)實現(xiàn)了‘快、護(hù)、暖、美’四個關(guān)鍵技術(shù)創(chuàng)新。

快 劉莉團隊著重研發(fā)的第一類是競速類服裝?！八俣然荣惙菤v時兩年多啃下來的硬骨頭?？炀褪菍τ谒兴俣阮惐荣悂碇v而言的，因為冬季項目普遍的速度很快，如何實現(xiàn)快的問題？一件速滑比賽服已經(jīng)不再是一件簡簡單單的衣服，而是一個融合了眾多最新科技成果和最新加工工藝的高科技產(chǎn)品，不僅具備藝術(shù)美觀的視覺效果，還要具備減阻、安全、合體等強大的功能，競速類項目比賽服設(shè)計重點在于降低阻力。通過科學(xué)化設(shè)計面料組織結(jié)構(gòu)、服裝結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計，增強最佳姿態(tài)運動板型適體度，實現(xiàn)跨尺度協(xié)同減阻，有效降低阻力，幫助運動員提升賽場表現(xiàn)。在競速類比賽中0.01秒就可以決定獎牌的歸屬，這也意味著除了運動員的現(xiàn)場發(fā)揮外，運動員服裝和裝備也起著很關(guān)鍵的作用，這其中也涉及了很多學(xué)科的內(nèi)容，如紡織工程，服裝工程，機械工程，熱物理，生物力學(xué)，談到這方面的研究進(jìn)展及應(yīng)用時劉莉道，“在緊身比賽服研發(fā)中，我們找與冬奧會參賽選手身型相似的運動員進(jìn)行初步實驗。在運動員身上印滿無序黑色斑點，模擬短道速滑技術(shù)動作，光學(xué)儀器會記錄動作過程中的皮膚應(yīng)變情況，通過分析模型進(jìn)而了解動作規(guī)律。我們最終根據(jù)規(guī)律、結(jié)合肌肉壓縮需要，來制作適合運動員技戰(zhàn)術(shù)特點的 Skin Suit 比賽服，合體的剪裁能有效降低阻力、提高運動能力。速度類項目賽服一般為緊身連體服，研發(fā)時候，特意把板型做成技術(shù)動作狀態(tài)時的服裝，是“站不起來”的服裝，服裝前身有較強拉力，從而穩(wěn)定運動員的運動姿態(tài)。最佳姿態(tài)立體裁剪、減阻結(jié)構(gòu)、適度壓縮是速度類比賽服的研發(fā)重點?！?中國速度滑冰隊運動員高亭宇的賽服制作從模型入手到面料制造，曾經(jīng)對比過56種服裝結(jié)構(gòu)，單是帽型就做了21種，并篩選出最適合他的技戰(zhàn)術(shù)特點的比賽服結(jié)構(gòu)。

從項目階段性研發(fā)成果看，短道速滑、速度滑冰比賽服比現(xiàn)役服裝減阻超10%，鋼架雪車、高山滑雪等運動項目也有顯著提升。

北京時間2021年11月14日凌晨結(jié)束的2021-2022國際滑聯(lián)速度滑冰世界杯波蘭站男子500米比賽中，曾獲2018年平昌冬奧會500米項目銅牌的運動員高亭宇雖然在外道出發(fā)，但是直道爆發(fā)力出色的他率先取得了優(yōu)勢，并在第二個彎道過后將領(lǐng)先優(yōu)勢逐漸擴大，最終以34秒265的成績率先沖線，打破了場地紀(jì)錄。 此前不久，高亭宇身著科研團隊研發(fā)的第七版黑白測試樣衣在“中國杯”上打破了自己保持的國內(nèi)記錄。

護(hù) 冬季運動項目速度快、環(huán)境惡劣，運動員損傷風(fēng)險較大，主要有沖撞和刺割兩類損傷，“護(hù)”涉及訓(xùn)練過程中裝備的保護(hù)性能，主要針對沖擊類損傷。對于使用冰刀的情況，要進(jìn)行刺割類防護(hù)，團隊中多個研發(fā)單位聯(lián)合攻堅了這一課題。她們采用復(fù)合紗線技術(shù)，將兩種性能的紗線復(fù)合，使所織造的面料超強、超韌、超彈，具備防切割性能，面料防切割等級滿足ISU要求。針對高山滑雪運動員在訓(xùn)練比賽中因旗門反彈造成抽打損傷情況，科研團隊使用吸能材料設(shè)計柱型陣列護(hù)具結(jié)構(gòu)，已制成專項防護(hù)裝備配備高山滑雪、自由式滑雪大跳臺隊日常訓(xùn)練。短道速滑比賽服則全身使用防切割面料，全面保護(hù)運動員身體，同時考慮肌肉壓縮、服裝減阻功能。

暖 “暖”屬于低溫保護(hù)功能，對于所有冬季項目都會用到“暖”。劉莉教授說““暖”主要通過兩種途徑：一是基礎(chǔ)的保暖纖維的研發(fā)，仿生學(xué)材料的開發(fā)；二是主動加熱技術(shù)，把電的能量轉(zhuǎn)化成主動釋放出來的熱量，將加熱膜和線植入訓(xùn)練服裝中。保障穿著人員在零下30℃環(huán)境下可持續(xù)作業(yè)8小時以上。目前，保暖樣衣已經(jīng)設(shè)計完成，她們設(shè)計制作的堡壘服裝在習(xí)近平總書記視察冬奧工作時給予了肯定和關(guān)注。

美 讓我們將目光穿越到2019年3月21日日本埼玉超級競技場，對芭蕾舞劇特別是花滑認(rèn)知度很高的日本觀眾早早地來到了超級競技場觀看花滑世錦賽中最為精彩的雙人滑比賽，最后一個上場的是我國選手隋文靜韓聰組合，只見隋文靜身穿皇室藍(lán)的藍(lán)色紗裙帶著隨意點綴的亮片閃閃發(fā)光，典雅大氣，而韓聰一身黑色套裝裁剪得體，小立領(lǐng)，前胸兩側(cè)蕾絲點綴，紳士派頭十足，兩位選手以一曲《雨，在你黑色的眼眸中》演繹了一套幾近完美的自由滑，即使外行也能感受到充盈的感染力，力量與柔美并存，仿佛看到了一場云端的幻夢，流動的詩與夢----含著眼淚微笑，跨過低谷挫折的勇氣，太美了，霎時間18000名觀眾群體起立鼓掌，standing ovation，這是芭蕾舞劇中最高表達(dá)敬意的方式，最終他們以自由滑155.60分、總成績234.84分，打破自由滑和總成績雙料世界紀(jì)錄拿到了冠軍，這是繼2017年芬蘭世錦賽后競技生涯中第二次獲得世錦賽金牌，他們穿的衣服正是劉莉團隊設(shè)計制作的，對此劉莉自豪地說“花樣滑冰是一個高度融合藝術(shù)與競技的體育項目，所以運動員考斯騰設(shè)計的好壞直接影響運動員的總體成績。因為花滑比賽得分由基礎(chǔ)分值、質(zhì)量加分、節(jié)目內(nèi)容分三部分組成，其中節(jié)目內(nèi)容分中包括了五項：滑行技術(shù)、步伐銜接、完成程度、編舞和音樂表現(xiàn)。表現(xiàn)力可以借由比賽服獲得最直觀的視覺展現(xiàn)。如何增強表現(xiàn)力需要我們研究思考，一件合身滿意的服裝會讓運動員提升信心，有利于他們在賽場上發(fā)揮得更好?！?/p>

除了負(fù)責(zé)給“蔥桶組合”隋文靜和韓聰設(shè)計雙人滑服裝外，劉莉設(shè)計團隊第二年又增加了單人滑服裝并嘗試做冰舞服裝，到目前為止劉莉團隊總共為中國花滑隊創(chuàng)作設(shè)計方案超千套，制作比賽服、表演服均超100套。2019年度在國際最大主流花滑主流花滑論壇Golden Skating中獲評“最佳比賽服（Best Costume）”。

作為一名科研工作者，面對今天取得的成績，劉莉有許多感想迫不及待地想和我們分享，她說：“我唯一知道的是我什么都不知道，今天的成績，得益于北服近年來不斷加大對科研的投入，給予教師在科研上更多的政策支持等舉措，在北服黨委指引下，全校上下形成了尊重創(chuàng)新、鼓勵創(chuàng)新的良好氛圍，讓我和團隊從無到有、從小到大不斷成長。我覺得我所從事的服裝科學(xué)領(lǐng)域研究從未像現(xiàn)在這樣令人激動和期待過。在服務(wù)保障的過程中，我們的研發(fā)團隊和運動員們已經(jīng)超乎了研究與被研究的關(guān)系，很期待北京2022 年冬奧會和冬殘奧會的開幕。我希望各位青年學(xué)子要有夢想、敢想敢干，更要厚積薄發(fā)、勇于擔(dān)當(dāng)，在屬于自己的舞臺上綻放光彩?！?/p>

Liu Li， deputy chief engineer of the expert working group of the General Administration of Sports to prepare for the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics， director of the National Winter Sports Clothing Equipment R&D Center， director of integration of defense and civilian technologies Center of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology， professor of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology， consultant professor and part-time doctoral tutor of Tiangong University， visiting scholar of the Hong Kong Polytechnic University and Cornell University， etc. However， these titles are not enough to describe her important position in the field of fashion design.

A month ago， Liu Li， as a representative of scientific researchers， received review by President Xi Jinping. On a winter afternoon 22 days before the countdown to the Winter Olympics， we finally met Liu Li， who had just returned from a business trip of Anta Group.

Actively preparing for the Winter Olympics

As soon as the PyeongChang Winter Olympics is over， the Beijing Winter Olympics cycle officially comes. In order to prepare the Winter Olympics， the Ministry of Science and Technology set special project， which launched since 2018. In 2019， the project of "Key Technologies for Research and Development of High-performance Clothing in Winter Sports and Training Competition"， jointly undertaken by 10 units， was approved. This project mainly serves the athletes of the national team， and is the only clothing project among all the projects preparing for the 2022 Winter Olympics. Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology as the lead unit， the whole project team includes 6 colleges and universities and 4 enterprises， and Anta Group is also one of the members.

Liu Li graduated from Tiangong University Clothing Design Engineering with undergraduate， master and doctoral degrees. This experience made her a fashion designer with engineer thinking， which just met the requirements of Olympics winter Project. Before coming into contact with the Winter Olympics clothing project， Liu has been engaged in the research and development of functional clothing and highperformance clothing， and studied how to combine "human science" with "fashion design". She once designed the army aviation jumpsuits and NBC protective clothing.

"In the past， many athletes purchased professional clothes from abroad， which cost a lot. Now， in order to break the dependence on imports， our country has strengthened its independent research and development efforts， which is more suitable for Chinese athletes’ physique and technical and tactical characteristics. For us， mastering our own intellectual property rights and making competitive clothes suitable for our athletes is also one of our Winter Olympics contribution. At the same time， the establishment of the domestic independent research and development of high-performance sportswear system is also a pursuit goal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology， telling Chinese stories byclothes. "

Realize four key technological innovations

Liu hopes to promote the high-quality development of China’s sportswear industry. With the approach of Beijing Winter Olympics， the project team has achieved four key technological innovations of "speed， protection， warmth and beauty" in clothing.

Speed Besides the fashionable and beautiful figure skating clothes， the second category designed by Liu is racing clothes."The speed skating competition suit is super hard. A speed skating competition suit is no longer a simple dress， but a high-tech product that integrates many latest scientific and technological achievements. It not only has artistic and beautiful visual effects， but also has powerful functions such as drag reduction， safety， and comfort. Scientific design of fabric structure design can helped athletes improve their performance.

In the 2021-2022 FILA Speed Skating World Cup men’s 500m competition in Poland， Gao Tingyu， an athlete who achieved a breakthrough for Chinese men’s speed skating at the 2018 Pyeongchang Winter Olympics， started from the outer road， but he took the lead in the straight road with excellent skills， finally winned in 34.265 seconds. Gao Tingyu was wearing the seventh edition of the clothes developed by Liu’s research team.

Protection Winter sports are characterized by fast speed and harsh environment， and athletes are at great risk of injury. There are mainly two types of injuries， collision and stabbing. Protection is the most important thing， Liu’s team mainly aimed at collision. In the case of using ice skates， it is necessary to carry out stab-cutting protection. Previously， we purchased foreign fabrics directly. Now， Liu’s team has cooperated with several R&D units to tackle this issue. They use compound yarn technology， which makes the woven fabric more strong， tough and elastic.

In view of the whipping injury caused by flag rebound in training competition， the research team used new energy materials to design the column type of protective gear structure， and made special protective equipment to equip alpine skiing and freestyle skiing. Shorttrack speed skating competition clothing uses cut resistant fabrics to fully protect athletes’ bodies， while considering muscle compression and clothing drag reduction functions.

Warmth Warmth should be considered in all winter events. Professor Liu said that there are two ways to keep warm. First， the research and development of basic thermal fibers and bionic materials； second， the active heating technology， which converts the energy of electricity into the heat released， and implants the heating film and thread into training clothes. Ensure that people who wear the clothes can work continuously for more than 8 hours at minus 30℃. At present， the warm-keeping clothes have been designed， and the fortress clothes they designed and made were affirmed and praised by President Xi Jinping.

Beautiful Saitama Super Arena in Japan on March 21st， 2019， Japanese audiences who have a high awareness of ballet， especially figure skating， came to the arena early to watch the most wonderful double figure skating competition in the World Championships. The last team to was Sui Wenjing and Han Cong from China. Sui Wenjing was wearing a blue elegant gauze skirt， while Han Cong was dressed in a black suit. The clothes they wore were designed and made by the Liu Li’s team. Liu Li proudly said that " as a designer， I need to think about how to enhance expressiveness by clothes. Because a well-fitted clothing helps athletes improve their confidence and perform better. "

In addition to design for Sui Wenjing and Han Cong， Liu tried to make ice dancing costumes in the second year. So far， the team of Liu Li has created more than 1，000 sets of clothes for Chinese figure skating， and produced more than 100 sets of competition clothes and performance clothes. In 2019， she was awarded"Best Costume" in Golden Skating， the largest mainstream figure skating forum in the world.

As a researcher， Liu Li has many feelings that she can’t wait to share with us in the face of today’s achievements. She said， "The only thing I know is that I don’t know anything. We could not have achieved the results without the help of our school and the policy support from the State. I feel that I have never been so exciting and expected for the field where I am working. In the process of service， the relationship between our R&D team and athletes has more than ordinary colleagues. We are looking forward to the opening of Beijing 2022 Winter Olympics and Winter Paralympics. Also， I hope that all young students have their own dreams， and dare to dream and chase their dreams， and be brave to take responsibility and shine on their own stage. "

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