上海 百年時(shí)光荏苒，紡織文脈常新

上海，中國(guó)近代紡織工業(yè)的發(fā)源地。

位于黃埔江畔的紡織行業(yè)，曾經(jīng)開(kāi)啟了中國(guó)近代工業(yè)新紀(jì)元，織就當(dāng)年“東方巴黎”的時(shí)尚基因，潺潺的水聲與織布機(jī)的轟鳴聲交織成一首工業(yè)復(fù)興的史詩(shī)樂(lè)章。

而如今，上海紡織業(yè)正向高端提升、向制造業(yè)后續(xù)服務(wù)價(jià)值鏈延伸；承載著紡織歷史的工業(yè)遺址搖身一變，成為一個(gè)個(gè)網(wǎng)紅工業(yè)園區(qū)；上海時(shí)裝周與米蘭、巴黎、倫敦、紐約比肩，躋身世界五大時(shí)裝周之列……上海紡織時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)正以更加現(xiàn)代的姿態(tài)，演繹出一曲交織著創(chuàng)意和活力的時(shí)尚新華章。

Shanghai is the birthplace of modern textile industry in China.

Located by the Huangpu River， the textile industry once opened a new era of modern Chinese industry. The sound of the gurgling river and the roar of the loom interweave into an epic movement of industrial revival.

Nowadays， Shanghai textile industry is advancing to the high-end industry and extending to the manufacturing follow-up service value chain. Industrial sites with textile history have been transformed into modern industrial parks. Shanghai Fashion Week is one of the top five fashion weeks in the world， alongside Milan， Paris， London and New York Fashion Week. With a more modern attitude， Shanghai textile fashion industry is presenting a new chapter of fashion with creativity and vitality.

織就“東方巴黎”時(shí)尚基因

早在明清時(shí)期，上海城鄉(xiāng)的手工棉紡織業(yè)就已興盛。而中國(guó)第一家動(dòng)力機(jī)器棉紡織企業(yè)，就誕生在上海。

1878年，上海紡織集團(tuán)的前身——上海機(jī)器織布制造局建立，它是由李鴻章主持籌建，中國(guó)棉紡織史上第一家由官督商辦、規(guī)模頗大的棉紡織企業(yè)。它開(kāi)創(chuàng)了中國(guó)近代動(dòng)力機(jī)器紡織工業(yè)的新紀(jì)元，帶動(dòng)了后道各個(gè)加工工業(yè)，包括印染、針織、毛巾被單、制線(xiàn)織帶，以及毛紡織印染和絲織業(yè)等產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈的拓展，為中國(guó)近代紡織工業(yè)的初步發(fā)展奠定了基礎(chǔ)。

此后幾經(jīng)輾轉(zhuǎn)，1931年榮氏兄弟購(gòu)得該廠，并更名為“申新九廠”，成為民族資本中規(guī)模最大、發(fā)展最快的紡織企業(yè)集團(tuán)。此后，徹夜轟鳴的紡織機(jī)器，響徹了60余個(gè)春秋。

在申新九廠最興旺時(shí)，廠里有7500名員工、8000名退休工人，10萬(wàn)多個(gè)紗錠、800多臺(tái)織布機(jī)，還有線(xiàn)錠、氣流房等各類(lèi)紡織專(zhuān)業(yè)設(shè)施。從1955年公私合營(yíng)一直到1992年，該廠累計(jì)上繳給國(guó)家的稅收相當(dāng)于每年可以再造一個(gè)申新廠。

與此同時(shí)，上海紡織工業(yè)也在不斷發(fā)展。上世紀(jì)30年代，上海所產(chǎn)紡織品品類(lèi)之豐、品質(zhì)之優(yōu)、數(shù)量之巨，已享譽(yù)海內(nèi)外，為“東方巴黎”上海的時(shí)尚提供著物質(zhì)和經(jīng)濟(jì)基礎(chǔ)。

到1949年全國(guó)解放時(shí)，上海紡織工業(yè)主體的棉紡錠已達(dá)250萬(wàn)枚。上海曾擁有棉、麻、絲、毛、化纖紡織，產(chǎn)業(yè)門(mén)類(lèi)齊全，從纖維到紗、從布到服裝、家紡等最終消費(fèi)品，形成了完整的產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈。新中國(guó)建立后的很長(zhǎng)一段時(shí)間內(nèi)，上海紡織工業(yè)被稱(chēng)為“搖錢(qián)樹(shù)”，棉紡錠曾經(jīng)占全國(guó)棉紡錠總數(shù)“半壁江山”。至上世紀(jì)80年代末，上海紡織工業(yè)仍雄踞上海第一支柱產(chǎn)業(yè)，產(chǎn)值、利稅一度占上海工業(yè)的三分之一，出口創(chuàng)匯曾經(jīng)占全市四分之一，是當(dāng)之無(wú)愧的母親工業(yè)。

上世紀(jì)90年代，隨著上海從我國(guó)重要工業(yè)基地向建設(shè)“四個(gè)中心”的發(fā)展，從工業(yè)化城市向國(guó)際化大都市的轉(zhuǎn)型，傳統(tǒng)的勞動(dòng)密集型的上海紡織工業(yè)陷入了困境。有著光榮歷史和優(yōu)良傳統(tǒng)的上海紡織人以大無(wú)畏的氣概進(jìn)行了以“減員壓錠”為標(biāo)志的大規(guī)模適應(yīng)性調(diào)整。1998年，“壓錠”的“第一錘”就敲在了申新九廠更名后的上海第二十二棉紡織廠。產(chǎn)業(yè)結(jié)構(gòu)、資本結(jié)構(gòu)和勞動(dòng)力結(jié)構(gòu)的大調(diào)整自此開(kāi)啟，與上海國(guó)際大都市相匹配的現(xiàn)代紡織業(yè)也自此走上新征途。

現(xiàn)代紡織業(yè)的蛻變重生

經(jīng)過(guò)一系列改革提升，此后的上海紡織以“科技與時(shí)尚”的發(fā)展戰(zhàn)略，致力于從傳統(tǒng)紡織制造業(yè)向高端提升、向制造業(yè)后續(xù)服務(wù)價(jià)值鏈延伸，打造與上海國(guó)際大都市相匹配的現(xiàn)代紡織業(yè)。

2001年，延續(xù)申新九廠的歷史文化和優(yōu)良傳統(tǒng)，上海紡織（集團(tuán)）有限公司成立，并逐步發(fā)展成為一家以科技為先導(dǎo)，以時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)為依托、擁有較完整的紡織服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈、集科工貿(mào)為一體的企業(yè)集團(tuán)，同時(shí)也是上海最大的國(guó)際貿(mào)易集團(tuán)。

2017年，擁有150年歷史的上海紡織集團(tuán)和具有近70年外貿(mào)歷史的原東方國(guó)際集團(tuán)聯(lián)合重組成東方國(guó)際（集團(tuán)）有限公司（以下簡(jiǎn)稱(chēng)“東方國(guó)際”），成為一家擁有先進(jìn)制造業(yè)與現(xiàn)代服務(wù)業(yè)，以時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)、健康產(chǎn)業(yè)和供應(yīng)鏈服務(wù)為核心主業(yè)，以科技實(shí)業(yè)、產(chǎn)業(yè)地產(chǎn)、金融投資為支撐的大型綜合性企業(yè)集團(tuán)，是中國(guó)最大的紡織服裝集團(tuán)和最大的紡織品服裝出口企業(yè)，名列中國(guó)企業(yè)500強(qiáng)第210位。

在實(shí)體紡織業(yè)方面，東方國(guó)際在國(guó)內(nèi)外建成了一批先進(jìn)制造基地，擁有全球第二的汽車(chē)內(nèi)飾、全球第二的時(shí)尚箱包、全球第四的毛衫制造能力和一批為貿(mào)易配套的服裝（面料）制造工廠。已在世界170多個(gè)國(guó)家或地區(qū)拓展了業(yè)務(wù)，與眾多著名跨國(guó)公司開(kāi)展了合作，擁有“三槍”“衣架”“銀河”等著名品牌和里奧竹等自主知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)高新纖維。在國(guó)內(nèi)有近4000家直營(yíng)零售終端。

讓“文物”變身文旅

東方國(guó)際打造了一批時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)服務(wù)平臺(tái)，正成為中國(guó)最具影響力的時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)綜合配套服務(wù)商。作為隸屬東方國(guó)際戰(zhàn)略布局中時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)群的發(fā)展主體，上海紡織時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展有限公司執(zhí)掌集團(tuán)“時(shí)尚”大旗，以“為城市添加精彩，為生活增加色彩”為發(fā)展理念，致力于成為中國(guó)時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)的創(chuàng)造者、時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈的集成者、時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)核心技術(shù)和環(huán)節(jié)的擁有者。其打造的“上海時(shí)裝周”影響力亞洲第一，躋身世界五大時(shí)裝周行列；擁有M50、尚街loft、上海國(guó)際時(shí)尚中心等60多個(gè)時(shí)尚創(chuàng)意園區(qū)，總面積180萬(wàn)平米，園區(qū)建設(shè)和體量達(dá)到全國(guó)第一。

其中，M50由信和紗廠舊址改造而來(lái)，如今是上海最具規(guī)模和影響力的創(chuàng)意產(chǎn)業(yè)園區(qū)之一；尚街Loft前身是三槍老式工業(yè)廠房，已經(jīng)搖身一變成為國(guó)際、時(shí)尚、創(chuàng)意、生活的時(shí)尚文創(chuàng)園區(qū)；上海國(guó)際時(shí)尚中心原為上海第十七棉紡織總廠，成功轉(zhuǎn)型成了集文化、旅游、商業(yè)三者合一的文化創(chuàng)意經(jīng)濟(jì)綜合體。

這些跨越了近一個(gè)世紀(jì)的紡織工業(yè)遺跡，見(jiàn)證了上海紡織乃至中國(guó)紡織業(yè)的發(fā)展和變遷，是不可多得的寶貴財(cái)富。然而，它們并沒(méi)有就此成為躺在歷史回憶中的“文物”，而是在紡織人的智慧和才干下，再次煥發(fā)出新生，成為紡織時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)又一新亮點(diǎn)，繼續(xù)為人民的美好生活增光添彩。

Shanghai textile industry weaves the fashion gene of “Oriental Paris”

Qing Dynasty Government established Shanghai Machine Weaving Bureau in 1878. It was the first mechanized cotton mill with the mass production capacity in modern China. The Bureau has partially enabled China to evolve from the thousands of years’ handcraft based production to modern mechanical era， with an epoch-making and far-reaching significance.

The Rong brothers bought the mill and changed its name to Shenxin 9th Cotton Mill in 1931， becoming the largest and fastest-growing textile enterprise group in China.

There were 7，500 employees， 8，000 retired workers， more than 100，000 spindles， more than 800 looms， and various professional textile facilities at its peak. From the publicprivate partnership in 1955 to 1992， the cumulative tax paid by the mill to the state was equivalent to the ability to build another Shenxin Cotton Mill every year.

Meanwhile， Shanghai’s textile industry is also developing. In the 1930s， the variety， quality and quantity of textiles produced in Shanghai were well known at home and abroad， providing material and economic basis for the fashion of Shanghai.

By 1949， the Shanghai textile industry had 2.5 million cotton spindles. Shanghai used to have cotton， linen， silk， wool， and chemical fiber textiles， with a complete range of industries， from fiber to yarn， cloth to clothing， home textiles and other final consumer goods， forming a complete industrial chain. For a long time after the founding of New China， Shanghai cotton spinning spindles once accounted for half of the country’s total cotton spinning spindles. By the end of the 1980s， Shanghai’s textile industry was still the first pillar industry in Shanghai. Its output value， profits and taxes once accounted for one-third of Shanghai’s industry， and its export earnings accounted for one quarter of the city’s foreign exchange earnings. It was a welldeserved mother industry.

In the 1990s， with the development of Shanghai from an important industrial base in China to the construction of “four centers” and the transformation from an industrialized city to an international metropolis， the traditional labor-intensive Shanghai textile industry fell into a dilemma， and the Shanghai textile people with a glorious history and fine traditions made large-scale adjustments. In 1998， Shanghai 22nd Cotton Mill， formerly Shenxin 9th Cotton Mill， began to adjust the industrial structure， capital structure and labor structure， and the modern textile industry matching Shanghai international metropolis has embarked on a new journey.

Transformation and upgrading of modern textile industry

After a series of reforms， Shanghai textile has been committed to the development strategy of “technology and fashion”， upgrading from traditional textile manufacturing to high-end industry， extending to the manufacturing followup service value chain， and creating a modern textile industry matching Shanghai’s international metropolis.

In 2001， continuing the historical culture and fine traditions of the Shenxin 9th Cotton Mill， Shangtex Holding Co.， Ltd. was established and gradually developed into an enterprise group that takes science and technology as the guide， based on the fashion industry， and has a relatively complete textile and garment industry chain. It is also the largest international trade group in Shanghai.

In 2017， Shangtex Holding Co.， Ltd.， with a history of 150 years， and the original Oriental International Group， with a history of nearly 70 years of foreign trade， jointly reorganized into Orient International （Holding） Co.， Ltd.（hereinafter referred to as “Orient International”）. It has become a large-scale comprehensive enterprise group with advanced manufacturing and modern service industries， with fashion industry， health industry and supply chain services as its core businesses， and supported by technology industry， industrial real estate， and financial investment. It is the largest textile and garment group in China， ranked 210th among the top 500 Chinese enterprises.

Orient International has built a number of advanced manufacturing bases at home and abroad， with the world’s second largest automobile interior and fashion bags， the world’s fourth largest sweater manufacturing capacity and garment （fabric） manufacturing factories. It has expanded its business in more than 170 countries and regions in the world and cooperated with many famous multinational companies. It owns famous brands such as THREEGUN and high-tech fibers with independent intellectual property rights such as Lyocell Bamboo， and there are nearly 4，000 direct retail terminals in China.

To become the most influential fashion industry comprehensive supporting service provider in China

Orient International has created a number of fashion industry service platforms and is becoming the most influential fashion industry comprehensive supporting service provider in China. As the main body of the development of the fashion industry group under the strategic layout of Orient International， the Shanghai Textile and Fashion Industry Development Co.， Ltd. is committed to becoming the creator of China’s fashion industry， the integrator of the fashion industry chain， and the owner of core technologies and links in the fashion industry. Shanghai Fashion Week created by it has the largest influence in Asia and ranks among the top five fashion weeks in the world； it has more than 60 fashion creative parks， including M50， Shangjie Loft， and Shanghai Fashion Center， with a total area of 1.8 million square meters.

Among them， M50 was transformed from the former site of Xinhe Textile Co.， Ltd. and is now one of the most influential creative industry parks in Shanghai. Shangjie Loft， formerly known as THREEGUN old industrial plant， has been transformed into an international， fashion， creative， lifestyle fashion cultural and creative park； Shanghai Fashion Center， formerly known as Shanghai 17th Cotton Mill， has been successfully transformed into a cultural and creative economic complex integrating culture， tourism and commerce.

These textile industry relics spanning nearly a century have witnessed the development and changes of Shanghai textile industry and even China’s textile industry， which is a rare precious treasure. However， they did not become the cultural relics lying in the historical memory， but with the wisdom and talent of the textile people， become a new highlight of the textile fashion industry， continue to add luster to the people’s beautiful life.