宋錦：一針一線(xiàn)鑄就千年歷史

起源于宋代的宋錦，穿越千年時(shí)光，在蘇州上久楷絲綢科技文化有限公司的創(chuàng)新發(fā)展下，散發(fā)出時(shí)尚現(xiàn)代的魅力。北京APEC、杭州G20峰會(huì)、阿斯塔納世博會(huì)、金磚峰會(huì)等國(guó)際性會(huì)議上都可以看到上久楷宋錦產(chǎn)品的身影，成為了中國(guó)絲綢行業(yè)的一張靚麗名片。本刊專(zhuān)訪(fǎng)吳江鼎盛絲綢有限公司、蘇州上久楷絲綢科技文化有限公司董事長(zhǎng)吳建華，看上久楷怎樣創(chuàng)新助推絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)、非遺文化技藝的傳承和發(fā)展。

Song brocade， which originated in the Song Dynasty， has thousands of years history. With the innovation and development of Suzhou Shangjiukai Silk Technology and Culture Co.， Ltd.， it is full with fashionable and modern charm. Shangjiukai Song brocade products were seen in Beijing APEC， Hangzhou G20 Summit， Astana World Expo， BRICS Summit and other international conferences， becoming a beautiful business card of Chinese silk industry.

CT：請(qǐng)您先介紹一下貴公司在面料、工藝和設(shè)計(jì)上的特色和理念。

吳建華：上久楷在面料、工藝和設(shè)計(jì)上的特色是將宋錦非遺技藝融入時(shí)尚元素，使得我們的宋錦成為一種文化符號(hào)，融入生活的方方面面。同時(shí)讓非遺宋錦變得更加時(shí)尚也是我們一貫秉承的理念，在弘揚(yáng)中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)文化上作出自己的貢獻(xiàn)。

CT：紡織品和紡織工藝是多種多樣的，貴公司為什么會(huì)專(zhuān)注于中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)的宋錦面料的工藝研發(fā)設(shè)計(jì)？

吳建華：宋錦對(duì)我們來(lái)說(shuō)不僅僅是中華文化，更是世界的瑰寶，作為深耕絲綢行業(yè)多年的從業(yè)者來(lái)說(shuō)，如果非遺宋錦在我們這代人手中消亡那將是莫大的罪過(guò)，所以我們一定要肩負(fù)起傳承和保護(hù)的責(zé)任；而且在發(fā)掘保護(hù)的過(guò)程中，我們也努力地讓宋錦更好的可持續(xù)發(fā)展起來(lái)，宋錦的獨(dú)特的魅力，讓我們看到了它內(nèi)在的文化價(jià)值和產(chǎn)業(yè)化的商業(yè)價(jià)值。

CT：與其他工藝相比，宋錦在設(shè)計(jì)研發(fā)上有什么難點(diǎn)，目前技術(shù)產(chǎn)業(yè)化的成果怎樣？

吳建華：原先的手工宋錦每天只能織出6厘米而已，生產(chǎn)效率很低，加上門(mén)幅只有70厘米，制作花本和更換花型極度復(fù)雜導(dǎo)致近代沒(méi)有企業(yè)在宋錦產(chǎn)業(yè)化和規(guī)?；嫌泻艽蟮耐黄啤Ｖ钡?012年，我們經(jīng)過(guò)不斷試驗(yàn)，改造出世界上第一臺(tái)現(xiàn)代化宋錦織機(jī)后，生產(chǎn)效率才得到大幅度提升。在成為了宋錦國(guó)家標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的第一起草單位后，我們利用宋錦耐磨性好、圖案立體感強(qiáng)的優(yōu)勢(shì)，又創(chuàng)造性地將其應(yīng)用在箱包、服裝、家紡、工藝品等領(lǐng)域并且獲得了多項(xiàng)發(fā)明專(zhuān)利；我們生產(chǎn)的宋錦產(chǎn)品多次入選北京APEC、杭州G20峰會(huì)、阿斯塔納世博會(huì)、金磚峰會(huì)、博鰲論壇、上合組織峰會(huì)、江蘇發(fā)展大會(huì)等大型活動(dòng)。

CT：您怎么看待宋錦的研發(fā)空間和時(shí)尚趨勢(shì)，未來(lái)貴公司的設(shè)計(jì)研發(fā)方向是什么？

吳建華：未來(lái)我們將在宋錦的新工藝上做出更多的突破，利用新材料結(jié)合桑蠶絲在應(yīng)用開(kāi)發(fā)和功能性上做一系列大膽的探索，把中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)文化與國(guó)際時(shí)尚元素緊密貼合，讓宋錦更具有獨(dú)特的國(guó)潮魅力。

CT：在國(guó)潮興起、中國(guó)式美學(xué)回歸的當(dāng)下，您認(rèn)為傳統(tǒng)的面料、非遺工藝是否迎來(lái)復(fù)興契機(jī)，您在這方面哪些思考，對(duì)行業(yè)同仁們有什么建議？

吳建華：迎著“一帶一路”春風(fēng) 宋錦的傳承和發(fā)揚(yáng)可以尋找到更好的生長(zhǎng)土壤，經(jīng)典時(shí)尚的面料及設(shè)計(jì)和蘊(yùn)含的民族特色與文化內(nèi)涵相互結(jié)合，讓時(shí)尚變得更有文化，讓文化變得更加時(shí)尚；在國(guó)潮流行趨勢(shì)下也會(huì)有更好，更時(shí)尚的發(fā)展空間。

希望絲綢行業(yè)的同仁能在絲綢創(chuàng)新上多做大膽的嘗試，在利用現(xiàn)代科技進(jìn)步的優(yōu)勢(shì)下，充分挖掘紡織非遺的文化內(nèi)涵底蘊(yùn)和獨(dú)特的技藝，打造出符合時(shí)尚潮流的絲綢文化產(chǎn)品，同時(shí)在文化融合與品牌打造中有更大的貢獻(xiàn)。

CT： Could you introduce the features and concepts of your fabric， techniques and designing？

Wu Jianhua： Shangjiukai’s characteristics in fabric， craft and design is to integrate Song brocade intangible heritage techniques into fashion elements， making Song brocade become a cultural symbol， integrated into every aspect of life. At the same time， we always uphold the idea of making Song brocade more fashionable， and make our own contribution to the promotion of traditional Chinese culture.

CT： There are versatile textiles and textile technologies， why are you concentrated on the R&D of Song brocade fabric？

Wu Jianhua： Song brocade is not only the Chinese culture to us， but also the treasure of the world. As a practitioner who has been deeply involved in the silk industry for many years， it would be a great sin if Song brocade dies in our generation， so we must shoulder the responsibility of inheritance and protection. Moreover， in the process of excavation and protection， we also strive to develop the industry better and sustainable. Its unique charm lets us see its both cultural value and commercial value.

CT： Compared with other techniques， are there any difficulties in designing on the Song brocade？ What achievements have been made currently？

Wu Jianhua： Song brocade can weave 6 centimeters by hand a day， which is very inefficient， and the width is only 70 centi-meters. Changing patterns are extremely complicated， which cannot lead to a great breakthrough in industrialization in modern times. It was not until 2012 that we transformed the world’s first modern Song brocade loom through continuous experiments， and the production efficiency was greatly improved. After becoming the first drafting unit of the national standard of Song brocade， we took advantage of its good wear resistance and strong three-dimensional sense， and creatively applied it to bags， clothing， home textiles， handicrafts and other fields and obtained a number of invention patents. Our products have been selected for many large-scale events such as Beijing APEC， Hangzhou G20 Summit， Astana World Expo， BRICS Summit， Boao Forum， SCO Summit and Jiangsu Development Conference.

CT： What’s your opinion on the R&D and fashion trend of Song brocade？

Wu Jianhua： In the future， we will do more works in Song brocade new technology， make a series of explorations in application development and functionality by using new materials and mulberry silk， and closely integrate Chinese traditional culture with international fashion elements， so as to make Song brocade have a unique Chinese charm.

CT： With the tides of Chinese aesthetics， what are the opportunities for traditional fabrics and intangible technologies？ And what suggestions do you have for the industry practitioners？

Wu Jianhua： With the breeze of "the Belt and Road initiative"， the inheritance and development of Song brocade will find a better growing soil. The combination of classic fashionable fabrics and designs and cultural connotations， making culture rejuvenated with vitality. There will be a better and more fashionable development space under the current national trend. We hope that people who work in the silk industry do more attempts in silk innovation， at the same time make greater contributions to cultural integration and brand building.