象山尋味

周含

1歲時，尚未學會走路，被熱情的鄰居請吃梭子蟹腳，差點梗塞。

5歲時，第一次吃黃梅童，輕松淡定地抿出細細碎碎的魚刺，被祖母點了一萬個贊。

10歲時，成功掌握1秒鐘完整吐出東海江白蝦殼的技能，一度幻想能參加“中國開漁節(jié)”嘉賓表演環(huán)節(jié)。

12歲時，已清晰地區(qū)別出冰鮮和活鮮之間的口感差異。

……

17歲之前，我從未離開過象山半島，海洋賜予的一切，都在我的血脈之中。

有些感情，只有距離可鑒定。

鄉(xiāng)情更是。

對象山人而言，只要不是方言覆蓋的地方，都算不得“留在家中”。

因為家鄉(xiāng)，萬事俱好。

有一種早餐

在象山，清晨起來，最喜歡的便是肉包子兩只或炒麥面一盆，包子定是那種剁餡加蔥的古早口味，不能放雞蛋，放雞蛋那是外鄉(xiāng)人的做法，不放醬油的又是寧波老派的做法，象山人就要見得著肉粒的餡兒，在醬油里翻滾成黑黝黝的樣子，青蔥也留著三分清新的綠，一口下去，是肉和面最銷魂的化學反應。

炒麥面不要圓面不要細面，要的是那種干到毫無韌勁的扁麥面，用肉絲和綠豆芽炒到面條微焦，直到古銅色中泛著油光的標準配色，才可被人匆匆用筷子調散了塞進嘴里。講究點的，稍稍加些浙醋和水辣醬，更有一股子爽潔的口感。

小學時，我最喜歡的早餐是象山東塘山路丹城二小門口的光面，5毛錢，僅有豬油和老醬油，一攪拌，撒幾顆蔥花引個路，香絕了一顆少女的心。運氣好的話還能看到心儀的男同學也坐在隔壁桌邊打噴嚏邊吃面，其人設立馬崩塌。

如今客人到象山，早起總要帶他們去吃一碗海鮮面，最早是中醫(yī)院后門的大胖面館，狹長的面館，對著馬路都是窗，窗下密密麻麻都是自行車，面價也從十幾二十一路到百元，里面的食材也從幾種擴張到了幾十種，甚至連象山人不常吃的鮑魚仔也位列其中。如今海鮮面店多如牛毛，也有零星開到其他城市的，但都因為對食材要求極高以致價格偏高，終還只是特色，無法成為他鄉(xiāng)人的習慣。

若是在家吃，那就只有一種早餐：湯飯。隔夜的白米飯在滾水鍋中略一沸騰就可以盛出來，放到溫涼就可以開吃，湯水清澈甘甜，米粒顆顆分明，就著蘸了熟醬油的油條，呼嚕嚕滾下肚去，人就跟花一樣被澆醒了。富裕一點的家庭，“過湯飯”的小菜那可多了，腐乳、榨菜、花生米、羊尾筍干、藠頭等等。我最喜歡的是昨晚沒吃完的紅燒黃梅童，在冰箱里成了油潤潤的魚凍，打一塊塞在湯飯里頭，連早晨的胃都愛腥氣。

蝦兵蟹將

海邊的人可能都擁有海洋動物的舌頭。

分辨海鮮近乎苛刻，熱戀海鮮近乎變態(tài)。

去象山人家中吃飯，能有一兩個蔬菜為你點綴，已經(jīng)屬于手下留情，狠心一點的主人，必定是滿滿當當整出一桌海鮮來，邊吃邊科普。

象山人的蝦兵蟹將，首選的是白米蝦，本地人叫小白蝦，姜蔥鹽水一煮，鮮甜滑嫩。天氣漸涼就開始吃對蝦，上岸就用鹽煮到半干，又大又紅又鮮，吃不完怕什么，曬成蝦干好貯藏，碰到非要吃蔬菜的時候，扔幾個下去同煮，也是濃濃海味。再懂行一點的人，要買那種小網(wǎng)隨便拖來的雜蝦，里面有大有小，運氣好的還有野生的黃漕蝦，腿關節(jié)硬硬粗粗，肉質鮮美有異香。

一說蟹，在象山人的意識里，多數(shù)就是白蟹。梭子蟹的處女們——小娘蟹先上岸，夏天的日頭下，快火一?，蟹殼邊上散出一些焦香，把潔白的蟹肉絲絲縷縷拆出來沾上醬油，配一口滾燙的白米飯，可能就是舉世無雙的甜蟹飯了。小時候，空氣中臺風欲來的水氣味道、六神花露水在竹席上的味道、楊梅燒酒消散的味道和小娘蟹略帶焦氣的甜香味道，是暑假的標配味道。過完夏天就要等蝤蛑上市，蝤蛑就是青蟹，老話說“八月蝤蛑抵只雞”，等桂花開了，蝤蛑殼里就都是肉，拿來斬件裹上薄粉，熱油姜絲快火一炒，加些茭白絲和干磨年糕條，出鍋讓你心里吃出根來。

海魚的味道

東海海域因她的特殊位置，帶來了遠勝渤海、黃海、南海的冷暖洋流交匯區(qū)，海底豐富的營養(yǎng)被沖撞翻滾，以至于讓這里的海鮮成為全世界最細膩鮮美的品種。

比如我最喜歡的帶魚。

帶魚的豐腴口感，源自其在深海的生存環(huán)境——扁平帶狀的體型以及為了抵御寒冷儲存了極多的脂肪。

帶魚是那種無論任何烹飪，都能給廚子面子的魚。

油煎，只需油熱。

清蒸，只需水滾。

風干，只需風大。

多年前，在某個北方人制作的“生活小竅門”里看到介紹帶魚清洗的方法——是將帶魚身上的白鱗膜悉數(shù)洗去。我簡直要穿過電視機屏幕去親自阻止，那白光閃閃的鱗膜才是帶魚最豐富的靈魂所在啊。

象山石浦港還有一種做法，將極細的帶魚仔腌制成略帶漚臭味的腌食，厭棄者可以拍桌子大罵一夜，而喜者卻能添飯3碗，并取了一個文縐縐的名字：東海帶魚絲。

不過，若是有誰，能在冬至時節(jié)吃上一段用醬油熱火急蒸的鮮帶魚，那可真算得上是神仙之福了。

象山爵溪曾是東海大黃魚最大的交易市場，曬鲞是家家戶戶必備的技能，鲞廠也是散落各處盛極一時。只可惜，這類擁有三角骨會咕咕作響的經(jīng)典魚，幾乎沒有野生品種的存在了?，F(xiàn)在能吃到的小（中）黃魚也并不太多，小時候我也分不清黃三、黃婆雞、白果子這類長得有些相像的魚種，覺得是歪門邪道的李鬼魚兒，后來才知道，雖然它們和大黃魚的地位的確天差地別，但都勝在肉質極細嫩，湯食、干食都最能放大鮮味。

宴席上和黃魚一樣可以撐場面的，還有鯧魚。象山人只愛銀鯧，像過了長江很多人喜歡的金鯧幾乎無人食用。一掌大小的銀鯧最是美味，象山人管它叫白鳊，再小一點的叫“楓樹葉”。白鳊適合紅燒，也能切開了抱鹽蒸食。“楓樹葉”最好以醬油紅蒸，紅燒怕是找不到鮮嫩的魚肉了。在象山爵溪，還有一種奇特的吃法，就是將銀鯧用酒糟腌制起來，技法特殊，遍尋象山唯有爵溪人處理得了。等開封食用，急火快蒸，魚皮完好但魚肉和魚骨已經(jīng)呈絳色，魚皮膠質盡出，綿軟黏筷，魚肉酒香撲鼻，魚骨酥爛入味，是嗜咸族最愛的壓飯之物。

象山人喜歡的魚味還有一種是鮸魚，俗稱米魚，頭大色黑，看起來有點非洲裔海魚的氣質。好的鮸魚都特別大，頭拿來斬件紅燒，大湯濃郁濃油赤醬的那種，身子切塊用粗鹽一腌，可以放冰箱儲存幾日，吃的時候姜片料酒大火快蒸，肉質彈軟緊實，濃香又有嚼頭。

I was born and brought up in Xiangshan， a coastal county in the middle of the coastline of Zhejiang Province. I spent my first 17 years in Xiangshan and the timeline of the years is punctuated by my experience of seafood. I was one year old when I had my first taste of a crab foot from a neighbor and almost choked. At five， I tasted big-head croaker for the first time and was able to spit out all the fish bones. My grandmother was proud of me. At 10， I mastered the skill of shelling the white shrimp in my mouth and spitting the shell within one minute. I thought I could qualify to show this stunt at the fishing season ceremony. At 12， I was able to distinguish fresh seafood from frozen seafood in my mouth. With rich experience of local food， I can even write chapters and volumes about cuisine and food-related customs in Xiangshan.

The best breakfast in Xiangshan， in my opinion， is steamed bun with meat stuffing and wheat noodle. When I grew up I fancied two steamed buns with meat stuffing and a bowl of wheat noodle at the gate of my primary school for breakfast. The meat stuffing is in old-time Ningbo style without a touch of soybean sauce. Nowadays， when guests come to visit me in Xiangshan， I take them to have a seafood noodle for breakfast. Years ago I took visitors to a noodle restaurant near the back gate of a traditional Chinese medicine hospital. The restaurant was a long space with windows on the street. The sidewalk was often packed by bicycles of the eaters in peak times. The restaurant offered noodles priced from 10 yuan up to more than 100 yuan. Such seafood noodle restaurants thrive in Xiangshan， but the seafood noodle restaurants business model that works in Xiangshan can hardly be copied successfully in cities too far away from seafood supplies.

People in Xiangshan have an almost abnormal passion for seafood. They are willing to say， at the first chance， that they love shrimps and crabs. If you are invited to a dinner at someones home， well， you will inevitably find yourself sit at a table heaped with seafood. If you are lucky enough， you find a plate of vegetable or two. In different seasons， shrimps and lobsters， small and big in size， are delicacies on the table. And people in Xiangshan also prefer crabs. To talk about crabs in different seasons and going with different wines can be a long lecture.

East China Sea offers better fish catches than in Bohai Sea， Yellow Sea and South China Sea. Of all the fish out of East China Sea， I like ribbonfish. No matter how you cook it， you can be proud of the ribbonfish you serve for your guests. It can be steamed， deep-fried， and dehydrated for future consumption. I remember my anger years ago when I was watching a television program in which a gourmet introduced how to clean a ribbonfish before it was cooked. When the gourmet said the silver coat of the ribbonfish must be removed， how I wished I could have put hands through the screen to stop him. In the seafood expertise of Xiangshan， the coat must be saved.

Another sea fish the people in Xiangshan prefer is the silvery pomfret. In Juexi， Xiangshan， the silvery pomfret is marinated with distillers grains and cured for some time before it is steamed and served. Only residents in Juexi know the secret of marinating the pomfret and curing it.