梁明玉：服裝設(shè)計(jì)師的B面

胡婷

“左手霓裳，右手丹青?！边@是美術(shù)評(píng)論家林木對(duì)梁明玉的評(píng)價(jià)。

梁明玉雖然以“服裝設(shè)計(jì)師”的身份為人熟知，但“畫(huà)家”其實(shí)是她作為設(shè)計(jì)師的B面。孩童時(shí)，她就開(kāi)始學(xué)習(xí)繪畫(huà)，幾十年來(lái)，她的包里始終都有一個(gè)速寫(xiě)本，走到哪里就畫(huà)到哪里。盡管服裝設(shè)計(jì)占據(jù)了她大部分時(shí)間，但她從未放下手中的畫(huà)筆。

“服裝是一種視覺(jué)外延，有著一種外在的華麗，而畫(huà)畫(huà)是更深的內(nèi)心，已經(jīng)成為一種陪伴。”梁明玉這樣總結(jié)服裝設(shè)計(jì)與繪畫(huà)的關(guān)系。

"Half a fashioner designer and half a painter." This is how art critic Lin Mu describes Liang Mingyu.

Though gained a reputation as a "fashion designer"， Liang Mingyu has an unbeknown identity - a "painter"， which is her B side as a designer. Began to learn painting since she was a child， she has， for decades， kept hold of her sketchbook wherever she went. Although design takes up most of her time， she never puts down her paintbrush.

"Clothing is a kind of visual extension with an external magnificence， while painting going much deeper and has become a companion of me." summed up Liang Mingyu when talking about the relationship between fashion design and painting.

人生的拼圖The Jigsaw Puzzle of Life

梁明玉的工作室，有一面大大的落地窗。夏日的窗外，三角梅開(kāi)得正盛。窗前，梁明玉頭發(fā)高高挽起，一襲白衣。

見(jiàn)到我們，她熱情介紹她的最新成果——那是兩個(gè)方形果盤(pán)，梁明玉用了十幾年，上面已經(jīng)有了劃痕，她舍不得扔，于是在果盤(pán)上畫(huà)了幅少數(shù)民族老繡片上的獅子圖案。

像這兩個(gè)果盤(pán)一樣被梁明玉翻新的舊物，工作室里還有不少：泛黃的空調(diào)外殼畫(huà)上了她喜歡的花卉；更衣室的外墻裝飾著她親手制作的拼布布藝；用了二十多年的沙發(fā)，她用藍(lán)色印花布重新縫制布面，多了些復(fù)古的味道……

于是，一件件普通的物件，又獲得了新的生命。

或許在梁明玉眼中，這些物件相伴日久，早已有了靈性，而無(wú)論服裝設(shè)計(jì)、繪畫(huà)，抑或是布藝、手工，無(wú)非是她在用自己的方式表達(dá)對(duì)生命的敬意。

“繪畫(huà)的過(guò)程，也是在繪制一幅關(guān)于人生的拼圖，即使再微小的碎片，都是對(duì)生命的記錄?！边@也是梁明玉所說(shuō)的陪伴的過(guò)程，既是和繪畫(huà)為伴，也是和這些所記錄的生命為伴。在掛滿工作室墻壁的作品中，有一幅畫(huà)著一只小黑狗，表情憂郁。梁明玉說(shuō)，那是她曾經(jīng)養(yǎng)的一只小狗，它當(dāng)時(shí)生病了，很痛苦。

梁明玉從小就喜歡小動(dòng)物，幾十年下來(lái)，她收養(yǎng)過(guò)不少貓貓狗狗，“我把它們都畫(huà)了下來(lái)，盡管它們最后都離開(kāi)了這個(gè)世界，但那些畫(huà)像還在，成為我永遠(yuǎn)的個(gè)人記憶和情感寄托。”

梁明玉現(xiàn)在還養(yǎng)著9只貓、6條狗，她能準(zhǔn)確說(shuō)出它們的習(xí)性：有兩只小狗才兩個(gè)多月，還需要她的照顧；有只小貓咪很聰明，只要幫它按電梯，它就能自己坐電梯下樓去玩……

Liang Mingyu’s studio has a large floor-to-ceiling window. Outside the window， the triangle plum blossom is in full bloom. With her hair rolled up， Liang Mingyu was standing in front of the window in white.

Seeing us， she introduced her latest work -- two square fruit plates to us， which Ms. Liang has used for a couple of years， and have some scratches. So attached to them， she was reluctant to throw them away， and thus drew a lion pattern of old embroidery pieces of ethnic minorities on them.

As these two fruit plates， Liang Mingyu has renovated many old stuff in her studio： the yellowed air conditioner shell painted with her favorite flowers； the exterior wall of the dressing room decorated with patchwork made by herself； newly sewed cloth cover with blue calico for the over 20-year-old sofa， adding a retro flavor...

As a result， ordinary objects have gained a new lease of life.

In Liang Mingyu’s eyes， these stuff have gained life throughout the years. Whether through clothing design， painting， fabric art or handicraft， she is simply expressing her respect for life in her own way.

"The process of painting is also drawing a jigsaw puzzle of life. Even the smallest fragment is a recording of life." This is also what Liang Mingyu called the process of accompanying， not only with painting， but also with these recorded lives. Among the works hanging over the walls of the studio， there’s a picture of a small black dog with a melancholy expression. Liang Mingyu said that it was a puppy she once had. It was ill.

Liang Mingyu liked small animals from an early age. Over the past few decades， she adopted many cats and dogs."I painted pictures for them all， which have become my personal memory and emotional sustenance though they all gone from the living world."

Ms Liang still has 9 cats and 6 dogs and she can tell their habits accurately： two puppies are only over two months old and need special care； a catling is so smart that can even takes the elevator to play by himself if someone push the button...

怦怦的心跳Pounding Heart

這種對(duì)生命的關(guān)照，讓梁明玉的畫(huà)作極具辨識(shí)度，不少朋友都稱她的畫(huà)為“梁氏畫(huà)”——

《生命》基調(diào)憂傷卻充滿了生命的力量；《青衣》在傳統(tǒng)女性的含蓄美中，暗喻了自由與追求……

梁明玉至今記得中學(xué)美術(shù)老師的話：畫(huà)石膏素描要有質(zhì)感，就像能敲響一樣。長(zhǎng)大后，梁明玉漸漸明白了老師所說(shuō)的“質(zhì)感”，尤其是在看過(guò)德國(guó)版畫(huà)家、雕塑家柯勒惠支的作品后。

“柯勒惠支經(jīng)歷了兩次世界大戰(zhàn)，她的作品很有力量，看著她筆下那些饑餓的兒童、無(wú)助的母親，我整個(gè)人都陷進(jìn)去了?！绷好饔裾f(shuō)，透過(guò)柯勒惠支那些“質(zhì)感”的作品，她感受到了藝術(shù)家的真誠(chéng)，那是一種用生命詮釋藝術(shù)的真誠(chéng)。

真誠(chéng)，于是成為梁明玉繪畫(huà)的信條。她眼中的真誠(chéng)，是對(duì)生命本質(zhì)的刻畫(huà)，呈現(xiàn)生命最真實(shí)的狀態(tài)。

“讀者應(yīng)該直接去傾聽(tīng)繪畫(huà)者和被繪者怦怦的心跳。”正如梁明玉很喜歡的一幅畫(huà)——克里姆特的《吻》——所傳遞出的畫(huà)家對(duì)愛(ài)、幸福與和平的希望。

梁明玉畫(huà)畫(huà)時(shí)，從不勉強(qiáng)自己去畫(huà)什么，她說(shuō)心跳怦怦時(shí)自然就會(huì)通過(guò)畫(huà)筆流露出來(lái)。

“我躺在床上睡覺(jué)時(shí)，如果有了靈感，就會(huì)馬上起來(lái)創(chuàng)作，不管多晚。”梁明玉想在作品中留下最能打動(dòng)人心的瞬間，“人生大劇場(chǎng)，有不同的人物和劇情，我想畫(huà)出豐富多彩而又真摯純粹的世界?！?/p>

This care for life endows Liang Mingyu’s paintings a recognizable look. Many of her friends call her works"Liang’s paintings" --

"Life"， which， with a sad tone， is full of the miraculous force of life； and "Tsing Yi"， which implies freedom and pursuit in presenting the beauty of connotation of traditional women...

Liang Mingyu still remembers words of her high school art teacher： Gypsum sketch should has a texture， as if it can make a sound when being knocked at. As she grew up， she gradually understood what the teacher called "texture"， especially after seeing the works of the German printmaker and sculptor K？the Kollwitz.

"K？the Kollwitz experienced two world wars， so her works are very powerful. I will be completely trapped into them every time I look at the hungry children and helpless mothers in her works." Through K？the Kollwitz’s works with"texture"， Liang Mingyu felt the sincerity of an artist， which is interpreted with life.

Sincerity， therefore， becomes Liang Mingyu’s creed for painting. In her eyes， sincerity is a depiction of the essence of life and presents the most real state of life.

"Readers should listen directly to the pounding heartbeat of the painter and the painted，" as the painter’s hope for love， happiness and peace conveyed in Liang Mingyu’s favorite painting "Kiss" by Klimt.

Liang Mingyu never forces herself to draw with a set topic. She believes that what a painter is thinking about will naturally be revealed through the brush.

"If an inspiration strikes me， I will get up immediately to create even if I am lying in bed， no matter how late." Liang Mingyu is dedicated to leaving the most touching moments in her works."The grand theater of life has a plenty of characters and plots. And the world I’d like to draw is a colorful， sincere and pure one."