千古蘭亭的色香味

劉孟達

風光篇

在蘭亭，許多匾額或?qū)β?lián)均出自歷代書壇耆宿之手。除了御碑亭的康乾御筆，還有乾隆年間翰林王文治的對聯(lián)“文人天趣清猶水，賢者風期靜若蘭”，光緒年間江夏太守李樹堂的“流觴亭”、當代著名書法家沙孟海的“王右軍祠”等，堪稱一座“沒有圍墻的書法博物館”。

盛會不殊，放懷宇宙忘今古;幽情共敘，極目山林快詠觴。????? ——題記

晨起，推窗而望，驀然發(fā)現(xiàn)我家的小庭院也似乎早已洋溢著綠色生命的蓬勃，瑞香吐蕊，杜鵑含苞。這個周末天朗而氣清，不經(jīng)意間，一縷溫煦的陽光悄悄踏進了我的小書齋，便突然動了郊野踏春的雅興——目的地自然是紹興古城西南郊的蘭亭。我蟄居紹興近40年，記不清尋訪過蘭亭多少回，可她的色、香、味依然令我心傾神馳。

一

“永和九年，歲在癸丑，暮春之初，會于會稽山陰之蘭亭，修禊事也……”蘭亭的“亭”，并非現(xiàn)代意義上的亭。秦漢時，“亭”是鄉(xiāng)以下的行政單位，即“十里一亭，十亭一鄉(xiāng)”。漢朝以降，在蘭渚山麓設驛亭，故稱為蘭亭。相傳，王羲之、謝安等社會名流曾在此置園建墅。歷史上，蘭亭原址幾經(jīng)興廢變遷，現(xiàn)址為20世紀80年代按照明嘉靖年間重建的園林風格修復而成。景區(qū)融恬靜的山水風光、雅致的園林景觀、顯赫的書壇盛名、深邃的文化底蘊于一體，以“景幽、事雅、文妙、書絕”而聞名遐邇。

蘭亭有山有水又有亭。山是蘭渚山，水是蘭亭溪，還有那環(huán)抱著信可樂也亭的樂池。蘭渚山層巒聳翠，連綿逶迤;蘭亭溪流水淙淙，穿景而過。數(shù)十處亭榭，或依山，或傍水。當然，與其他景區(qū)不同，蘭亭的“亭”大多是碑亭，朱柱飛檐，清幽典雅。我置身蘭亭溪畔，站在騁懷廊橋上環(huán)顧四周，茂林如錦，修篁成林，儼然是一幅秀色可餐的山水畫。

蘭渚山，我鐘情于她的青黛欲滴?！吧讲辉诟撸邢蓜t靈”，蘭渚山高不過百米，想必也難覓仙蹤。可是，看它的身世并非等閑之輩，這里曾是越王句（）踐的“花圃”。據(jù)南宋《會稽續(xù)志》載：“《越絕書》曰：‘句踐種蘭渚山。舊經(jīng)曰：‘蘭渚山，句踐種蘭之地?！毕鄠?，當年越王句踐為博得吳王夫差的歡心，每年遴選最好的蘭花作為進吳貢品。

蘭亭溪，我醉心于她的綠水蕩漾。從御碑亭北行，便是蘭亭溪，淺溪清流，繞蘭渚山陂潺潺而過。水底游魚卵石，清晰可數(shù)，溪灘寬百余米，是舉行群眾性水上修禊活動的最佳場所。溪邊的柳樹露出一束束新枝綠葉，隨風飄揚，婀娜多姿，真是“不知細葉誰裁出，二月春風似剪刀。”

亭榭間，我迷戀于她的翠竹如屏。在蘭亭，繞樓臺、過亭閣，隨處可見一片片細密的竹林，或巧布，或穿插。細細的葉，臨風起舞;疏疏的節(jié)，寧折不彎。遠看，這些竹林綠得像一塊塊晶瑩碧透的翡翠;近看，它們又像一道道綠色的屏障。在蘭渚山麓新建有全國之最的“蘭亭書法博物館”。翠竹茂林掩映下的新館占地十余畝，與蘭亭隔溪相望。館內(nèi)除收藏和展出古今書法精品外，還設有書藝交流廳，并每年定期在此仿效古人“曲水流觴”之雅事。

我驀然發(fā)現(xiàn)，蘭亭最美的景不只在于她擁有靈動的水、沉穩(wěn)的山、古樸的亭，而在于她那山與水與亭的交相輝映，還有那一片片翠竹修篁的點綴和映襯。

二

暖日融天，和風扇物。我躑躅在蘭亭的卵石路上，穿過翠竹園，走過鵝池、樂池、流觴亭，便是“曲水流觴”處。正是在這里，一群名士的雅集留下了妙文的墨香、幽蘭的清香，還有那花雕的醇香。從此，蘭亭便驚艷歷史，蔥蘢歲月。

一篇妙文，字字墨香最絕妙。東晉永和九年（353）三月初三，時任會稽內(nèi)史的王羲之邀謝安、孫綽等41位名士及親友在蘭亭修禊，曲水流觴，長吟淺酌。隨后，王羲之將所作37首詩歸整成集，并在微醉中用鼠須筆在蠶繭紙上一氣呵成《蘭亭序》。區(qū)區(qū)324字，文妙字絕，似神人相助。從此，蘭亭成為文人雅士的圣殿，引無數(shù)書者至心朝禮，頂禮膜拜。在蘭亭，許多匾額或?qū)β?lián)均出自歷代書壇耆宿之手。除了御碑亭的康乾御筆，還有乾隆年間翰林王文治的對聯(lián)“文人天趣清猶水，賢者風期靜若蘭”，光緒年間江夏太守李樹堂的“流觴亭”、當代著名書法家沙孟海的“王右軍祠”等，堪稱一座“沒有圍墻的書法博物館”。

一枝幽蘭，縷縷清香最怡神?！版鼓然ㄗ吮倘~長，風來難隱谷中香?！苯B興是中國植蘭最早的地方之一。與蘭亭毗鄰的漓渚棠棣一帶，現(xiàn)仍以盛產(chǎn)春蘭而馳名中外。棠棣蘭花，品種繁多;一枝在室，清香四溢。明代書畫大家徐渭《詠蘭》詩云：“莫訝春光不屬儂，一香已足壓千紅?！碧m花作為紹興市花，象征著典雅脫俗的情操和柔中帶剛的氣質(zhì)。那天，我走過蘭渚橋，來到購物區(qū)“之鎮(zhèn)”。“之鎮(zhèn)”因取《蘭亭序》中二十多個體態(tài)優(yōu)美的“之”字而得名。我蹀躞在“之鎮(zhèn)”水街的青石板上，棠棣的村民們正在沿街叫賣一盆盆蘭花。這些蘭花葉片細長而瀟灑，花姿嫵媚而清雅，冷艷芬芳，攝人心魄。

一壇花雕，口口醇香最難忘。那天，在“之鎮(zhèn)”旱街，正在舉行“歲月流觴·致敬經(jīng)典”紹興黃酒新款推介會，新款叫“大師蘭亭珍藏版”。我知道，那是紹興花雕酒中的極品。記得2019年書法節(jié)，就在景區(qū)旁的“蘭亭酒坊”，我和五六個好友溫了一壺老款的“大師蘭亭”，細品慢飲，悠哉樂哉。至今，那花雕的醇香仍縈繞于心。今年春節(jié)，我妥妥宅在家，偶爾也獨酌幾盅“蘭亭”。不由得想起曹孟德“慨當以慷，憂思難忘”的短歌來。彼時，嘴里的花雕醇香，可心中的“憂思”卻難忘。我默默地祈盼：等春來，君安國無恙。

三

永和九年的蘭亭雅集，不只是魏晉名士的風雅與書法的神韻，還有對人間世事本真的探索，蘊含著個人和國家命運的迷茫、困惑、憂思與憧憬，考問著多少帝王將相、仁人志士的心智和靈魂。

凝望御碑亭，我讀懂了盛世明君的鼎味?！岸ξ丁闭?，國政也。相傳，商王武丁曾討教傅說如何治理國家，傅說答曰：“猶調(diào)鼎中之味，以諧和也”。站在御碑亭前，我不禁逸興遄飛。御碑是全國唯一的康乾“祖孫碑”，迄今已逾三百余年，屬“國寶”級文物，與“鵝池碑”“蘭亭碑”統(tǒng)稱“蘭亭三寶”。碑的正面是康熙帝1693年臨寫的《蘭亭序》，背面是乾隆帝1751年游蘭亭時的七律詩《蘭亭即事》。滄海桑田，多少蘭亭故事傳唱不息。唐太宗熱捧王羲之書藝：“心摩手追，此人而已！”正是他，將王羲之迎上了書藝的“神壇”。盡管他將“賺入宮中”的《蘭亭序》奉為至寶，《蘭亭序》亦因陪葬昭陵而不知所蹤，但在他身后興起的臨摹刻碑之風，使王羲之“書圣”名謂，再無人出其右。難怪史學家說，唐太宗開元盛世的秘密是：收人，收心，收天下！我想，以文化人、興文偃武，歷來是一代明君的“調(diào)鼎”之術(shù)。再來品讀康乾御碑?？滴跤P雍容華貴，氣韻生動，既有王羲之的筆意，又有董其昌的結(jié)體，字里行間無不彰顯出“和為貴”的幽韻;而乾隆御筆則是他上會稽、祭大禹后，來蘭亭朝拜書圣時即興所作，其書風妍美俊逸，圓潤秀雅，詩中對蘭亭的仰慕之情溢于言表。凝眸此景，我感慨：“馬背上”的滿清民族雖入關征服了明王朝，但他們卻心悅誠服地被厚重的漢文化所征服。這，也許是另一種形式的“調(diào)鼎”之術(shù)罷。

佇立流觴亭，我領略了魏晉名士的風韻。“曲水流觴”處對面的流觴亭，面闊三間，四面圍廊，匾額“曲水趣歡處”為乾隆御筆。圍廊內(nèi)陳列著《蘭亭修禊圖》扇面畫和明朝永樂年間所刻流觴圖拓片及觴的復制品。在這里，我感慨，一縷飄逸千年的墨香，激揚了多少志士仁人;一張泛黃的繭紙，湮沒了多少金戈鐵馬。我支頤而思，在蘭亭雅集的背后，不就是被世人津津樂道的魏晉風韻或風度嗎？品讀王羲之的《蘭亭序》，貌似充斥著率直任誕、清靜無為的意趣，深層次卻從宇宙永存、人生苦短中參悟人生價值。在山河破碎風飄絮的魏晉時代，一群曠達不羈的名士寄情山水，寵辱不驚，與詩酒為伴，在亂離中感傷，在感傷中排遣，悻悻然走向蕭散，走向自然。其實，他們的內(nèi)心卻埋藏著深沉的悲哀和無奈，是對當時政治生態(tài)及其社會現(xiàn)實的無聲抗爭。

瞻仰王右軍祠，我體悟了為人處世的真味。始建于清康熙年間的王右軍祠，飛檐回廊，古樸典雅。祠中間有“墨池”，池中建有墨華亭。祠堂正中為王羲之漢白玉塑像，堂匾“盡得風流”氣勢恢宏?；乩葔ι翔偳吨鴼v代名家臨寫的《蘭亭序》以及蘭亭藝事刻石，是靜賞書藝的最佳處。在這里，兩件事令我更加懂得：做人，要拿得起，更要放得下。在蘭亭雅集后的第三年，三十多年“官齡”的王羲之便告病辭官，攜全家歸隱剡縣（）金庭，直至終老。有人說他是因為與上司不睦而憤然辭職的，還有人說他是因篤信道教而安然遁世的。依我看，是他“不羨權(quán)貴不慕官”的那顆“放得下”的心使然。由此，我幡然體悟：如果人生是一場尋覓，那么“拿得起”也好，“放得下”也罷，只要將自己的平常心融入世界，就能找到生命的真諦。因為，生命，需要磨礪;人生，需要儒雅。匍匐前行的姿勢，唯有心更接近泥土。

（本文圖片除署名外，來自視覺中國）

Orchid Pavilion of Pastand Present

By Liu Mengda

I have been living in Shaoxing for nearly four decades. Orchid Pavilion （Lanting in Chinese pronunciation） in a suburb southwest of the city proper is one of my favorite destinations around the city of history and culture. I dont know exactly how many times I have visited it， but the latest one was just a few days ago.

What was known as Ting （pavilion） in ancient China is not a roadside structure with a roof but no walls for travelers to take a break there. Ting in the Qin Dynasty （221-207BC） and the Han Dynasty （206BC-220AD） was a rural grassroots administrative unit. Ten Tings added up to a rural town. In the Han Dynasty， a postal office was set up at Lanzhu Hill in Shaoxing. It was called Lanting or Orchid Pavilion. Folklore has it that Wang Xizhi， Xie An， and many other celebrated people had their villas built there. Orchid Pavilion was destroyed several times in history. The present tourist destination is a restoration in the architectural style of the Ming Dynasty （1368-1644） constructed in the 1980s.

The scenic zone of Orchid Pavilion is composed of Lanzhu Hill （no more than 100 meters above sea level）， Orchid Pavilion brook and a pond and a series of pavilions， scattered on the hill slopes or by the brook. Most of these pavilions house stone tablets which present artworks of calligraphy. One of the most outstanding stone tablets is a piece jointly created by Emperor Kangxi and his grandson Emperor Qianlong. On the obverse side is the complete text of? copied by Emperor Kangxi in 1693. On the reverse side is a poem composed by Emperor Qianlong in 1751 during his visit to Orchid Pavilion.

Lanzhu Hill boasted a nursery where the King Goujian had orchids cultivated there more than 2，000 years ago. Then a defeated king living as a subject to the King of Wu State， Goujian submitted orchid flowers to the court of the Wu State. Now Lanzhu Hill boasts a forest of bamboos. At the foot of the hill is Orchid Pavilion Calligraphy Museum， which covers an area of more than 6，000 square meters. The museum has a large collection of works by calligraphers of yesterday and today. Exhibitions are held there at regular intervals. Orchid Pavilion also hosts a spring-day ceremony to honor the original gathering in 535AD.

Also at the Orchid Pavilion site are a Wang Xizhi memorial temple and a pavilion called Liushang Pavilion named after the wine-sipping poem-composing ceremony held by a gurgling stream on the late spring day in 535AD. On the ground of the pavilion is a minimized 3D map of the stream. There is a brook zigzagging on the compound. A memorial celebration is held there annually in honor of the event in 535. At the event， some low tables and cushions are arranged by the brook where people can sit and write poems.

Shaoxing has probably the longest history of orchid cultivation in China. Naturally， the city flower of Shaoxing is orchid flower. Lizhu and Tangdi， two rural areas near Orchid Pavilion， are home to some orchid cultivators. Orchid farming in this part of Zhejiang has been going on for more than a thousand years. In Orchid Pavilion there is a shopping area called 之鎮(zhèn)， literally town of 之. This Chinese character appears in Wang Xizhis calligraphic masterpiece more than twenty times， each penned in a different way. Some potted orchid flowers vendors are from Tangdi and Lizhu. On the day I was visiting， I ran into a promotional event held by a wine producer. The wine brand was Orchid Pavilion Masters. I remember sipping the rice wine with some friends during our visit to Orchid Pavilion during the calligraphy festival in 2019. How we were delighted by the gathering and by the wine.