青出于藍(lán)的印染美學(xué)

文/五花肉

上一期，專欄聚焦計量器具的發(fā)展，介紹了“利在千秋的法定基準(zhǔn)”。本期，我們關(guān)注服飾的染色工藝，欣賞“青出于藍(lán)的印染美學(xué)”。

In the last issue, the column focused on the development of measuring instruments and introduced "Legal Benchmark for Benefit in the Future". In this issue, we shall pay attention to clothing dyeing process and appreciate "Dyeing Aesthetics of Excellence".

愛美之心，人皆有之。早在新石器時代，古人就學(xué)會了以自然界中五顏六色的礦物質(zhì)為原料，提取色彩來妝點服飾，進(jìn)而發(fā)明了石染、草染、扎染等不同時期的染色工藝。

Everyone has a love of beauty. As early as the Neolithic Age, ancient Chinese learned to use the colorful minerals in nature as raw materials to extract colors and to make up costumes, and then invented dyeing techniques in different periods such as stone dyeing, grass dyeing and tie dyeing.

石染：原始樸素

Stone Dyeing: Primitive Simplicity

作為最原始的染色工藝，石染法的關(guān)鍵是找到所需顏色的礦石，將其研磨成粉后，直接涂抹在服飾之上，或經(jīng)膠狀材料調(diào)和后附著于服飾表面。

As the most primitive dyeing process, the key of stone dyeing process was the ores with the required color. Ancient Chinese ground ores into powder, applied them directly on the clothing, or adhere dyeing glue to the clothing surface after blending with colloidal materials.

受限于當(dāng)時的技術(shù)和工具，石染法使用的礦物顏料顆粒度較大，化學(xué)性質(zhì)穩(wěn)定，纖維親和力不足，只能以物理附著的方式進(jìn)行染色，每次染色只能選擇單一顏色，色澤與圖案也十分樸素。

Limited by the technology and tools at that time, mineral pigments used in stone dyeing process were of large granularity, stable chemical properties and insuffcient fiber affnity. As a result, they could only be dyed by physical attachment. Only a single color could be selected for each dyeing, and the color and pattern were also very simple.

草染：質(zhì)的飛躍Grass Dyeing: Substantial Development

進(jìn)入農(nóng)業(yè)社會后，人們逐漸發(fā)現(xiàn)，與礦物質(zhì)相比，植物中的色素分子有著更佳的纖維親和力，進(jìn)而探索出更為復(fù)雜的草染法，實現(xiàn)了從礦物涂染到植物浸染的飛躍。

After entering the agricultural society, ancient Chinese gradually found that pigment molecules in plants were of better fiber affinity than minerals, and further developed more complex grass dyeing techniques, which realized a leap from mineral coating to plant impregnation.

據(jù)《考工記·鐘氏染羽》記載，先秦時期的工匠利用加熱提純、氧化反應(yīng)等操作，通過多次浸染，可以印染出赤黃、深青、黑色等多種色彩。自此，這一工藝成為了我國古代印染行業(yè)的主流標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，并日趨規(guī)范，讓印染之美從王公貴族走向千家萬戶。

According to "Kao Gong Ji Zhong Shi Ran Yu"( technological document for dyeing process in Kao Gong Ji), craftsmen in the pre-Qin period used heating purification, oxidation reaction and other operations to dye many colors such as red yellow, dark green and black through multiple impregnation. Since then, this process has become the mainstream standard in Chinese ancient dyeing industry. With the development of standards，beauty of dyeing became popular among ordinary people from the nobility.

扎染：成就卓越

Tie-dyeing: Outstanding Achievements

隨著經(jīng)濟(jì)社會的發(fā)展，人們對色彩的審美要求也水漲船高，更加繁復(fù)艷麗的扎染法便應(yīng)運而生。

With the development of economy and society and rise of people's aesthetic taste, more complicated and colorful tie-dyeing methods emerged.

這種工藝將待染品用繩線捆扎后染色，常見的扎法包括針縫、打結(jié)和器具輔助等，捆扎力度、繩線粗細(xì)長短、折疊次數(shù)和方向等皆有明確標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，以此實現(xiàn)部分染色的目的，進(jìn)而產(chǎn)生精準(zhǔn)的特殊花紋和復(fù)雜多變的色彩效果，成就了我國古代印染技術(shù)的卓越豐碑。

In this process, the products to be dyed were tied with cord and dyed. Common tying methods included needle sewing, knotting and appliance assistance. There was a system of standards for tying strength including length and thickness of cord, folding times and direction. With the development of standards, ancient Chinese mastered partial dyeing techniques to produce precise special patterns and complicated and changeable color eあects, which achieved dyeing technology outstanding monument in Chinese history.

結(jié) 語

Conclusion

從涂染、浸染到扎染，印染工藝在發(fā)展中不斷成長，在規(guī)范中走向卓越，“青出于藍(lán)，更勝于藍(lán)”，讓服飾煥發(fā)生命的同時，也妝點出更加絢爛的生活。

From painting and dyeing to tie-dyeing, dyeing technology kept improving and achieving excellence. "Dyeing Aesthetics of Excellence" makes clothing glow with life and highlights more splendid life.