秋日之旅：漫步于英式園林

《唐頓莊園》、《呼嘯山莊》、《高斯福德莊園》、《霍華德莊園》……光是以英國莊園為名的影視作品已經(jīng)數(shù)不勝數(shù)，更不用說以莊園為背景的文學(xué)作品了：完美先生——達(dá)西的彭伯里莊園（《傲慢與偏見》）；見證了簡·愛和羅切斯特先生之間愛情的桑菲爾德莊園（《簡·愛》）；“推理女王”阿加莎·克里斯蒂甚至開創(chuàng)了偵探小說的“鄉(xiāng)間別墅派”……可見莊園對于英國人來說有多么重要。

趁著秋高氣爽，就讓我們一起拜訪英國最有名的幾個莊園吧！

If youre looking for something to do on a fine autumn day， visiting an English garden or park could surprise you. Over hundreds of years， English landscape gardeners have developed a natural style thats more complex than it looks and makes the most of the English climate.

Due to typical English weather， you will not see the charming colors of autumn， the reds and bright yellows and maroons that you find in New England. Nor will you see the multi-colored heather that covers parts of Scotland in the fall. What you will see， however， is a great variety of trees and shrubs that show off their own special qualities.

Many of Englands parks and forests， having long been part of private estates or aristocratic deer parks， now have ancient woodlands undisturbed for centuries—even millennia. At Attingham Park in Shropshire， the Repton oak is at least 650 years old. And on Box Hill in Surrey， there are yew trees more than 1，000 years old.

These are a few of my favorite autumn park， English garden and forest walks. So bundle up warm， pack your camera and enjoy.

This National Trust property in Yorkshire is an 18th century garden with a 900-year-old Cistercian Abbey. The water garden was the creation of one man， over a 25-year period. And the estate， a UNESCO World Heritage site， includes the worlds only surviving Cistercian grain mill—in use until 1927， more than 800 years （You can try your hand grinding some grain while you are there）. The whole area is over 800 acres that includes natural woodlands and a medieval deer park.

In October， the trees turn russet and gold and the deer rut—so dont get too close to them.

If you want to get some food and drink， the Fountains Restaurant， near the Abbey， serves hot lunches， sandwiches and salads every day and Sunday roasts every week. In season， theres venison from the estates own deer. There are also two tea rooms. From the Lakeside Tea Room， you can watch the deer and swans.

Hidcote Manor， in Gloucestershire， was the first garden ever acquired by the National Trust and is considered to be the finest existing example of an English garden. You will be more surprised when you find out the fact that it was created by an American， born in Paris. The story of Major Lawrence Johnston， who devoted most of his life to developing the garden， is part of its fascination. During the autumn months， there is a lot to enjoy.

The garden is composed of several garden “rooms，”each with its own character and separated by more than four miles of hedges. Autumn highlights include an annual sculpture garden in September， dahlias that bloom until the first frost and a forest walk covered with fallen leaves. Pumpkins and autumn harvest vegetables are served in the estates restaurants and are offered for sale in Hidcotes shop. And， apparently， nobody minds if you help yourself to a few windfall pears.

Knole， in Kent， is a massive Tudor house set in a 1，000 acre medieval deer park. It was given to the Sackville family， who still live here， by Queen Elizabeth I in 1566. Once a bishops palace and a royal residence， Knole is the largest and most complete Tudor house in Britain. It is huge， with two entrance towers， four long galleries and seven courtyards. It is also crumbling. In 2012， the National Trust， who own Knole， asked the government for funds to save a house that is sometimes referred to as Englands second palace.

Knole Park is free to visit all year round. In fact， the people of Kent have been walking its paths and countryside for centuries. In 1884， they fought to preserve the right to walk on the parklands.

Only the deer look after this park and maintain the balance of nature here. Knoles beautiful deer are rather curious and tame—but dont feed them； they are still wild animals.

Dogs， on leads are welcome in Knole Park. The park is open to pedestrians year round， 24/7. Theres a tea room in the estate Brewhouse， and a shop， both open limited hours throughout the year.

假若你在一個晴朗的秋日里想找點(diǎn)事情打發(fā)時間，到某個英國園林或者公園走走或許會給你帶來一份驚喜。英格蘭的園藝家在幾百年間發(fā)展出一種比景觀效果更為復(fù)雜的自然風(fēng)格——這種風(fēng)格將英國氣候的特點(diǎn)發(fā)揮得淋漓盡致。

鑒于典型的英國天氣，你（在這里）不會看到令人陶醉的滿目秋色，不會像在（美國）新英格蘭那樣看到火紅如云、嫩黃遍地與栗色盡染的美景，也不會看到五顏六色的歐石楠——每逢秋天，這些小花兒在蘇格蘭的部分地區(qū)隨處可見。不過，你會看到品種繁多的樹木與灌木叢盡情炫耀著它們獨(dú)有的風(fēng)采。

英國的許多公園和森林過去一直是私人產(chǎn)業(yè)或者貴族鹿園，時至今日，園內(nèi)依然保有大片數(shù)百年乃至上千年來無人涉足的古林地。什羅普郡阿丁罕公園里的雷普頓橡樹至少有650歲；薩里郡博士山上的紫衫木樹齡超過一千年。

以下是幾個我特別喜歡在秋天游玩的公園、英國園林以及叢林小徑。把自己穿得暖和些，帶上你的相機(jī)，盡情享受這段旅程吧。

這個隸屬于（英國）國民信托組織的產(chǎn)業(yè)位于約克郡，在這個18世紀(jì)園林中還有一個超過900年歷史的西多會修道院。該水景園出自一人之手，用了25年的時間建造而成。這個被聯(lián)合國教科文組織（UNESCO）列入世界遺產(chǎn)的景區(qū)擁有世界上唯一一個保存至今的西多會磨坊——服役八百多年，直到1927年才停止使用（你可以在那里親身試試研磨谷粒）。園地總面積超過800英畝（約323.75公頃），其中包括大片天然林地以及一個中世紀(jì)鹿園。

十月，萬木盡赤，金黃一片，野鹿進(jìn)入發(fā)情期——所以千萬別試圖靠近它們。

如果你想來點(diǎn)吃的或喝的，修道院附近的方廷斯餐廳每天提供熱騰騰的午餐、三明治以及色拉，每周日還會供應(yīng)烤肉，正當(dāng)令時還能吃到園區(qū)內(nèi)自產(chǎn)的鹿肉。這里還有兩間茶室，你可以在湖畔茶室眺望鹿群與天鵝的身姿。

位于格洛斯特郡的希德蔻特花園是國民信托組織接管的第一個花園，被認(rèn)為是現(xiàn)存最精致的英式園林典范。當(dāng)你發(fā)現(xiàn)該莊園的設(shè)計(jì)師是一位出生在巴黎的美國人時一定會更加吃驚。勞倫斯·約翰斯頓少校傾盡畢生之力打造出這個花園，他的故事也為莊園平添了幾分魅力。在入秋的月份，這里還有很多好玩的東西呢。

這個園林由數(shù)個“花園房”組成，每個“花園房”都有自己的特色，被超過四英里（約6.44千米）長的樹籬分隔開來。秋季看點(diǎn)包括每年九月份展出的雕塑花園、直到初霜始降才凋落的大麗花，以及落葉滿地的山林小徑。園區(qū)內(nèi)的餐廳供應(yīng)南瓜以及其他秋收蔬菜，你也能在希德蔻特的小店里買到這些農(nóng)產(chǎn)品。另外，你顯然可以撿些被吹落的梨子來嘗嘗，沒有人會介意的。

位于肯特郡的諾爾莊園是一座都鐸風(fēng)格大宅，坐落于一個1000英畝（約404.69公頃）的中世紀(jì)鹿園內(nèi)。1566年，英女王伊麗莎白一世將這個莊園賜給了薩克維爾家族——他們至今依然住在此地。過去曾經(jīng)作為主教院及王室住所的諾爾莊園現(xiàn)在是全英國最大型、保存最完好的都鐸式大屋。這是一組規(guī)模宏大的建筑群，入口處矗立著兩棟塔樓，內(nèi)有四條長長的走廊和七個庭院。這里同時也破舊不堪。2012年，擁有諾爾莊園的國民信托組織向政府發(fā)起了呼吁，希望籌集資金以拯救這座有時被視為英格蘭第二王宮的建筑。

諾爾公園全年免費(fèi)開放。事實(shí)上，肯特郡的人們幾百年來一直在這里的小徑和鄉(xiāng)間通行。1884年，他們還為保留在公園用地上行走的權(quán)利而進(jìn)行過抗?fàn)帯?/p>

只有鹿群在照看著這個公園，并維持這里的生態(tài)平衡。莊園里那些美麗的野鹿充滿好奇心，而且特別溫順——但是你可別進(jìn)行喂食哦，它們畢竟是野生動物。

被好好牽著的狗狗可以隨意進(jìn)入諾爾公園。這個園區(qū)向行人全天候開放，全年無休。在釀酒莊內(nèi)設(shè)有茶室和小店——這兩家店在一年當(dāng)中開門營業(yè)的時間很有限哦。